It appears my booster is leaking inside the truck. Just a drip but I saw on the floor mat today. Rebuilding it does not look that difficult. What have some of you folks done for yours?

I've heard they are not hard to go through but need time like anything else. I just changed one on a k2500 suburban and we ended up just buying a rebuilt unit with life time warranty from orily. Took almost 2 hours but we were not in a hurry. I think it was  $150 didn't pay attention it's easy to spend friends money lol. Probably would be cheaper on line but for sertain parts I don't mind paying more so you can always exchange it and not deal with shipping and wait.

I do like the convenience of buying at the local parts house. In this case no one seems to stock it plus they all want $220 for one where as Rock Auto has the same ones for $150. Seal kit is a whole lot cheaper my only worry is something going wrong and now my truck has to sit. That's not good when I have to be back on the job in Maryland. Rental cars tend to blow the budget. Got a little time I hope since it is just a small drip at the moment. I had planned on resealing my vac pump over labor day, Might be a good time to do them both.

 

I also thought about finding a core in a junk yard and just rebuilding it. The couple I found so far are $100 or so. That and a seal kit would take about what a reman cost.

Yeah I see your point. 

I've got to get my power steering fluid changed very soon before I'm looking down the road of doing this very same thing. So far I'm still all OEM parts on my power steering hydraulics parts. No leaks as of yet but my fluid is darkened and need to be changed.

This is the first leak I have had on mine also. The power steering and bake system is all OEM also. After 415k I cant complain. Mine is in need of a flush also. Thinking of replacing the power steering pump while I am in there, but I sure hate replacing a part that aint broke yet. I can feel @IBMobile staring at me right now.

I just replaced mine with a parts store reman with a lifetime warranty. The booster for the newer trucks are more expensive than the one in my 97. Little odd but no more leaks and my braking is much much better.

Drip,

The booster rebuilds easily.  I have some pictures from my rebuild (it was for a GM application so a bit different on pedal end.)

 

I think i got all my parts from these guys and talked with them on the phone.  They are in Asheville .    http://piratejack.net/installation-videos-helpful-resources/

 

The two cup seals on the left (in the picture) are what is allowing power steering fluid to leak into the cab.....

 

Hag

I also added a filter in return line to mine.

1 hour ago, dripley said:

I can feel @IBMobile staring at me right now

48 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

WTF did you multiply?

@dripley if you do this rebuild you know you gotta make a write up of that...

I actually found this write up on it on line. Complete with pictures that are being held hostage by Photo Bucket.It was inspirational but not visual.

 

I did a reman from NAPA, from a cost stand point better off rebuilding with a new seal kit unless time is a big issue, sounds like it might be. You have to do some disassembly of the old unit anyways. You need to take the mounting bracket to the master cylinder off, the spring and star/hex washer thingy and reuse on the reman unit.

 

Also, rod lengths differ, mine did from the reman. You might need to replace the brake switch under the brake pedal for the different rod lengths and adjust it. Once adjusted they can't be readjusted.

16 minutes ago, CTcummins24V said:

I did a reman from NAPA, from a cost stand point better off rebuilding with a new seal kit unless time is a big issue, sounds like it might be. You have to do some disassembly of the old unit anyways. You need to take the mounting bracket to the master cylinder off, the spring and star/hex washer thingy and reuse on the reman unit.

 

Also, rod lengths differ, mine did from the reman. You might need to replace the brake switch under the brake pedal for the different rod lengths and adjust it. Once adjusted they can't be readjusted.

That is pretty much what I read on the inter web. One fella said he was able to adjust the bracket holding the brake light switch to make up for the shorter rod. I have not looked up there to even see how its mounted.

 

It is the uh oh moment when I realize i either screwed something up or have to have another piece or part that worries me. 

It's just the switch that turns the brake lights on. I went through 2 faulty switches from Oriellys, then ordered a standard motor products from rockauto, which is the oem manufacturer I think.

The rod that comes out of the back is what makes the difference for all the different applications....  The rebuild places just rebuild them, they don't know what rod or length you are supposed to have.  GM crimped theirs on. All of my pictures are how to "uncrimp it" then put it back so it is the right length. 

 

Don't let this fool you.  It is amazingly simple inside....  You will kick yourself.   The only "worry" is that the accumulator has pressure.  Just apply the brakes on the truck 5 or 6 times before you start pulling the unit out.   a big C clamp is how you remove the accumulator.

Picture of removing the accumulator

Here are the two housings coming apart.  (previous picture showed you the silver pistons out of the housings)

and a picture of the output rod and spring.

and a cross section of the assembly, just for giggles.

Can't be much harder than cleaning AR15

6 hours ago, Haggar said:

The rod that comes out of the back is what makes the difference for all the different applications....  The rebuild places just rebuild them, they don't know what rod or length you are supposed to have.  GM crimped theirs on. All of my pictures are how to "uncrimp it" then put it back so it is the right length. 

 

Don't let this fool you.  It is amazingly simple inside....  You will kick yourself.   The only "worry" is that the accumulator has pressure.  Just apply the brakes on the truck 5 or 6 times before you start pulling the unit out.   a big C clamp is how you remove the accumulator.

Picture of removing the accumulator

Here are the two housings coming apart.  (previous picture showed you the silver pistons out of the housings)

and a picture of the output rod and spring.

and a cross section of the assembly, just for giggles.

Trying to figure out what you are doing with the C clamp. Since mine is still mounted I cant see the back side and when I feel back maybe there is a plug of some sort maybe? Does the accumulator piston need to come out?

I think I am pretty committed to doing this. I went to Pirate Jacks and looked at their kit. I then clicked on the instructions and it linked me to a detailed thread on how to do it. Wouldn't you know that the pictures were also hijacked by Photo Bucket.

The accumulator is held in place by a heavy snap ring.  The accumulator has a heavy spring in it.

 

The C-clamp collapses the accumulator spring to allow you to use the pin hole to push the snap ring and release it.  You might be able to do it by hand, but since I only have 2 hands I couldn't manipulate the snap ring....  it takes 3 hands to get the snap ring out by itself.  The snap ring is a 330 degree wire, so you push one end down, then hook it with a control screw driver or hooked pick.  It will come out.  That is the toughest part.

 

The only other curve ball is how the input rod is attached to the back of the power piston....  In many GM applications this was a crimped ball connection...  Getting the ball out of the crimp took some time and hand made tools.   I think a lot of the Ford and Dodge systems just use a clip or retaining pin.

 

HTH

Hag