Is there supposed to be any type of padding or protection between the metal strap that holds fuel tank in place and the fuel tank? 

Front strap is held in place by a metal bracket that strap goes into.  Metal bracket is bent …trying to figure out if it was bent on purpose, to prevent strap from falling off…just in case strap ever came loose or is bracket bent from road debris? 

 

Figure 14-110 in parts manual doesn’t show anything between strap and tank , but maybe some type of protection a good idea? 

(My old Ford had something like gunny sack material between tank and strap.  I replaced with a rubber inter-tube.  But tank was from late 80's with alum tank, if I recall right)  

 

 

Edited September 14, 20177 yr by 015point9

Cant see that it would hurt anything at all. Mine does not have anything there. It has been a long time since I looked at mine but I do seem to remember a bend in it, but not sure. There is a bolt that holds the strap also or was on mine any how. 

Pretty sure it doesn't come with anything. At least both trucks I've had didn't have one. If you're going to remove them, I'd recommend grinding down the corners of the forward most one so you don't have to loosen the carrier bearing as much. Here's how I did mine and it made reinstallation a lot easier.

 

No reduction of vibration could hurt, was under my truck doing the exhaust last week and I looked at the tank straps to make sure nothing was rusted, and I didn't see any type of vibration damper in between the strap and the tank. I'll be putting my truck on the lift tomorrow afternoon to do my DD clutch & built transmission install and can snap a few pictures for you. 

Edited September 15, 20177 yr by Cronus577

I put new straps on mine and there was nothing in between, that's how I put it back too. It's pretty snug and adding rubber in between sounds like a good idea but probably will trap salt and rot quicker.

10 hours ago, notlimah said:

Pretty sure it doesn't come with anything. At least both trucks I've had didn't have one. If you're going to remove them, I'd recommend grinding down the corners of the forward most one so you don't have to loosen the carrier bearing as much. Here's how I did mine and it made reinstallation a lot easier.

 

I never took my carrier loose. Had to persuade it a little but it came out. Cutting the corners aint a bad idea though.

37 minutes ago, dripley said:

I never took my carrier loose. Had to persuade it a little but it came out. Cutting the corners aint a bad idea though.

 

I never had to take the entire carrier out, just same as you, lots of 'persuading' lol! Once I trimmed the edges it went it just by taking the one bolt out.

My tank strap is also clamped under the carrier bearing. I've got to drop the carrier bearing to get mine loose. I've only pulled my fuel tank twice in the life of the truck. Once for the Draw straw install and the second time to replace the fuel sending unit.

Under the truck right now and I'm not seeing and kind of padding in between the tank and the strap

Thanks...no padding.  Pretty clean truck you have

2 hours ago, 015point9 said:

Thanks...no padding.  Pretty clean truck you have

Thanks, putting in a rebuilt trans and velair clutch, luckily I bought a rear main for just in case

11 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

My tank strap is also clamped under the carrier bearing. I've got to drop the carrier bearing to get mine loose. I've only pulled my fuel tank twice in the life of the truck. Once for the Draw straw install and the second time to replace the fuel sending unit.

I have only pulled mine twice too. Once on the first day of my AD install and once the next day when I realized I did not install a couple spring clamps completely.

@Cronus577Is that a first rear main in 350k? 

Edited September 16, 20177 yr by Dieselfuture

1 hour ago, Dieselfuture said:

@Cronus577Is that a first rear main in 350k? 

I believe so. There's no RTV anywhere and the oil pan gasket for the bottom of the seal housing was still there, so unless the previous owner(s) lifted the engine and did the oil pan gasket if/when the rear main seal was replaced or they did it without pulling off the housing it would be stock oem gasket. I installed the oem Cummins one and the seal was way off, both the dust gasket and the oil gasket was about a quarter of an inch away from the crank. One of the guys that was working on his Powerstroke came over and was like and I quote "it'll probably expand once it warms up".. I was like naaahhh I don't think this is right at all. So I ran and got a felpro seal which seals 100x better.. 

Felpro vs NEW OEM Cummins gasket

Edited September 16, 20177 yr by Cronus577

Wow, lol it will expend alright when there is no oil left. Is felpro on top and cummins on bottom? I think I see a gap on bottom one, plus it looks wavy.

     Kinda of topic but I did a timing belt on my car I drive daily and while at it I did all seals and crank seal always leaked, even before I did it, that's why I decided to do it in a first place. So after I put 20k on the new seal and it was getting worse I decided it was time to see what's going on. Ended up being when I pushed the seal over crank, inside lip roled inside out but not all the way it was weird. I then used a piece of PVC same size as crank and put the new seal on it and then slid it over on the crank, to keep it from rolling again. Never had that issue before, crank is even tapered but somehow it would want to roll anyway. Now no leaks, I don't have to add a qt every 1k.

Edited September 17, 20177 yr by Dieselfuture

@Dieselfuture yeah the felpro is the top and it sealed perfectly. The Cummins one is the one on the bottom. The white part is dust seal, It was straight but I tried to push it in a little to see if it would seal. It had the metal ring in it to make it seal correctly and it would have worked but the seal never expanded to meet the crank. I couldn't convince myself to believe that it would expand, I ended up pulling it and trying to push the crank seal out and I got it to touch the crank but I could see a hairline gap still so I threw it out and put in the felpro and it's golden. Just put on the flywheel before the shop closed so should have it finished tomorrow. Going to suck having to keep my foot out of it while breaking in the clutch, I really want to get that dent in the bed fixed from where someone on base where I lived hit me and left no information

Edited September 17, 20177 yr by Cronus577

Lol...when I saw pic, i thought looks just like MCAS Yuma.  Same color on lift, location in shop the same, etc.   

Is it Yuma?

Edited September 17, 20177 yr by 015point9

6 minutes ago, 015point9 said:

Lol...when I saw pic, i thought looks just like MCAS Yuma.  Same color on lift, location in shop the same, etc.   

Is it Yuma?

Cannon AFB New Mexico

14 hours ago, Cronus577 said:

One of the guys that was working on his Powerstroke came over and was like and I quote "it'll probably expand once it warms up".. I was like naaahhh I don't think this is right at all. So I ran and got a felpro seal which seals 100x better.. 

That's why he drives a Powerstroke and you have a Cummins.

You can probably pop most of that dent out by hand should be pretty easy, I'd try it if it was me. Maybe stick a 2x4 with a ball of rags on the end so you don't put small dents from 2x4 in a box and pry it out. 

11 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

You can probably pop most of that dent out by hand should be pretty easy, I'd try it if it was me. Maybe stick a 2x4 with a ball of rags on the end so you don't put small dents from 2x4 in a box and pry it out. 

I went to pop it out already but the paint is cracked and wanted to flake off a big piece so I just stopped.
Finished the Rear main seal, Velair DD clutch and rebuilt trans install about 2 and a half hours ago and put almost 70 miles on it. Last Friday I got a pivot ball for another "just in case" and well..  But the new clutch is pretty and no more third gear grind which is nice. But the DD nature shifts like a tank

Edited September 18, 20177 yr by Cronus577