Been having problems for awhile with my torque converter not locking in. Took it the shop and they put a new torque converter and selenoids in the valve body. Started working but now it’s having the same problem. Also the voltage gauge has now started staying at zero and won’t crank. Every once in awhile it will crank and after you drive around for a few minutes the gauge will go back to zero. Checked all the grounds off the batteries and they seem fine. Any help appreciated. 

Sounds like an alternator problem, check for excessive ac noise. 

2 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

Sounds like an alternator problem, check for excessive ac noise. 

Help me out there DF, how do you check for ac noise if there is no output? Not trying to be a butthead, thought you might know something I don't.

 

To the OP sounds to me like either the alternator is shot or the PCM is not telling it to charge. I am definitely not the electrical genius here, so let's see what others have to say. Have you checked for any trouble codes?

I had something similar happen once. I was driving and the check gauges light came on. Volt meter went to zero, but the truck didn't die. Made it home. Shut the truck off. Turned the key back on, and the volt meter went back over 12 volts. Hasn't happened again since. 

 

I'm sorry my experience won't be of any help, but I am definitely interested in hearing the solution to your problem when you figure it out.

41 minutes ago, dripley said:

Help me out there DF, how do you check for ac noise if there is no output?

No problem I have no idea haha, but I was just thinking when his truck runs it would be good idea to check for it. I suppose he can bench test it too. When gauges and electronics along with tc hunt do weird things, it makes me think there is a problem with ac noise. I suppose it could be in the ignition switch too. Why it crank or don't crank randomly , there could be multiple problems like wore out starter contacts, ac noise, ignition, pcm, 

@Jnhobson95 does your wait to start light come on every time and right away?

1 minute ago, Dieselfuture said:

No problem I have no idea haha, but I was just thinking when his truck runs it would be good idea to check for it. I suppose he can bench test it too. When gauges and electronics along with tc hunt do weird things, it makes me think there is a problem with ac noise. I suppose it could be in the ignition switch too. Why it crank or don't crank randomly , there could be multiple problems like wore out starter contacts, ac noise, ignition, pcm, 

@Jnhobson95 does your wait to start light come on every time and right away?

Thanks for straightening that out.

 OP he asks a good question about the WTS light. It should come on as soon as you turn the key. If it is not on and wont start but comes on later and will it points to a different problem. That and weird gauge readings might be pointing to a bad ECM.

Yea this is like what I think Mike made the most apparent for the longest time on these trucks! Torque converter hunting is almost always an alternator issue putting out too much AC noise.

If you lost too many diodes and the output is high ac noise low DC out the the voltage can be dropping below 12.00 volts which will cause the gauge to drop to 8 volts. Better off using a high quality DVM for diagnostics that relying on the crappy cluster.

I put a new alternator on it today and would just click when i tried starting it. Charging my batteries over night and see what happens tomorrow. 

Might need to replace both batteries if they are that weak. Winter cold demands a lot to start. I would have the batteries tested if they are marginal or failing just replace them both as a pair.

You probably need this. https://m.ebay.com/itm/LarryBs-Dodge-Cummins-Denso-Starter-solenoid-kit-89-2006-/191675963882?_mwBanner=1

I got my batteries tested right when i started having problems and they were fine

I've had similar battery problems, I went and had them tested, one was bad the other good, so I replaced the bad one.  I had the alternator tested, but the test wouldn't continue because it said there was a draw on the alternator with all accessories off.  That's is likely a bad ground, where is the most common place for a bad ground on the alternator? 

Was the alternator in your hand or still on the truck for the alternator test? 

 

If still on the truck, it would not be a ground problem.  Something was drawing current.  ....  freaking gas car all the same diagnostic equipment ...  your truck has "accessories"  most never think of.  Fuel heater, grid heaters....  These would look like "accessories" to a stupid diagnostic device, but be normal in diesel trucks....   (you could pull the fuse for the fuel heater and the main wires off the PDC that feed the grids.)  

 

You might get a better diagnosis of the alternator by taking it off the vehicle.  Less confusion.  Just make sure they are actually check for AC voltage.  Most of the standard "alternator checkers" don't even consider AC as a potential problem.

 

HTH 

 

Hag

After putting the alternator on my voltage problem has stopped. Cranks up and runs just fine. TC still won’t lock in at all. 

I’d scan for codes, sounds like something in the trans isn’t happy.

Some transmission codes don't trip the CEL light.