Going to install an exhaust brake looking for Opinions

Here is mine and I love it. I had to buy the little red knob on the shifter separate, it came with a toggle switch that I used for first few years. 

29 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

Here is mine and I love it. I had to buy the little red knob on the shifter separate, it came with a toggle switch that I used for first few years. 

 

I had the same setup except arming switch at 3 oclock position. I grabbed it between 4th and pinky finger. 

 

Side note I love how everyones shifter knobs are rotated different. 

 

Pre and post EGT probes, nice.

 

My shifter knob was rotated all the way around in my old truck. 

 

I think think the new truck is close to yours.  Lol

Edited February 18, 20187 yr by Ben

6 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

Here is mine and I love it. I had to buy the little red knob on the shifter separate, it came with a toggle switch that I used for first few years. 

What brand is yours?

On 2/17/2018 at 11:51 PM, Marcus2000monster said:

What brand is yours?

  BD 

These babys are expensive! I'm toen between the BD and the pacbrake. Does anyone have the prxb? Seems that the prices are fairly competitive..

Back when I ordered my Jacobs it was only $750 installed on the truck. Now exhaust brakes are over $1,000 and you have to install them yet. I been in a PacBrake truck but not PRXB series. It was on a 3rd Gen truck. Now those exhaust brakes clamp shut hard. Being they are driven by air pressure and not vacuum. The non-PRXB exhaust brakes you have to set the regulated air pressure to 60 PSI and check the drive pressure to make sure your not floating valves from pressure. Where the PRXB has that second valve for controlling the back pressure better then the non-PRXB series exhaust brakes. 

 

I would have to say if I was to replace mine it would do a PacBrake PRXB series after playing with the non-series. 

1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Back when I ordered my Jacobs it was only $750 installed on the truck. Now exhaust brakes are over $1,000 and you have to install them yet. I been in a PacBrake truck but not PRXB series. It was on a 3rd Gen truck. Now those exhaust brakes clamp shut hard. Being they are driven by air pressure and not vacuum. The non-PRXB exhaust brakes you have to set the regulated air pressure to 60 PSI and check the drive pressure to make sure your not floating valves from pressure. Where the PRXB has that second valve for controlling the back pressure better then the non-PRXB series exhaust brakes. 

 

I would have to say if I was to replace mine it would do a PacBrake PRXB series after playing with the non-series. 

Dang I cant see why theyre so expensive... 

Just now, Marcus2000monster said:

Dang I cant see why theyre so expensive... 

 

Because the brake pad companies are losing money. (Not seriously...) But I will admit that brake pad/shoe wear is reduced so much I'm going to clear over 200k miles on these brake pads and still be going on. I've still got a ton of pad left when I reworked my rear parking brakes. The starwheels rusted up and I couldn't spin the starwheels no more. My first brake service was at 185k miles now at 334k miles and well over 50% of pads left yet. Still running OEM rotors.

1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Because the brake pad companies are losing money. (Not seriously...) But I will admit that brake pad/shoe wear is reduced so much I'm going to clear over 200k miles on these brake pads and still be going on. I've still got a ton of pad left when I reworked my rear parking brakes. The starwheels rusted up and I couldn't spin the starwheels no more. My first brake service was at 185k miles now at 334k miles and well over 50% of pads left yet. Still running OEM rotors.

That is one of the benfits of an exhaust brake! Now clue me in on this parking brake adjustement. My brake isn't holding very well anymore. 

9 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Now clue me in on this parking brake adjustement. My brake isn't holding very well anymore. 

 

That's easy. 

 

First off you might as well service your starwheel and clean the threads and grease the pocket part of the shaft. Also check to see if there is shoe material left. One day mine quit working and the shoe material was nearly gone and just started metal to metal. When you re-install the starwheels make sure when they are spun away from the axle they tighten this is the normal direction. Remember I'm talking as if the rotor is back in place.

 

Now reassemble the rotor, caliper and adjust the shoes till they just touch and drag. Proper adjustment. Remember starwheels rolling away from the axle to tighten.

 

Now check your cables for and binding or damage. Like my passenger side cable is the troublemaker. It tends to rust up or bind. If so just replace both rear cables it works some much better when the cables actually move properly. 

 

So now that you know the cable move correctly you can adjust the slack. The nut on the threaded part is for slack adjustment that's all its not to adjust the parking brakes. So you need to tight just enough that the slack is out of the cable and it not dangling down nor is it so tight that you pulling the brakes on. There is no magic bullet here but common sense will get you close to right. If you adjusted too tight you notice the pedal barely makes half travel. If it's too lose it will go to the floor and not hold the truck. 

Edited February 20, 20187 yr by Mopar1973Man

2 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

That's easy. 

 

First off you might as well service your starwheel and clean the threads and grease the pocket part of the shaft. Also check to see if there is shoe material left. One day mine quit working and the shoe material was nearly gone and just started metal to metal. When you re-install the starwheels make sure when they are spun away from the axle they tighten this is the normal direction. Remember I'm talking as if the rotor is back in place.

 

Now reassemble the rotor, caliper and adjust the shoes till they just touch and drag. Proper adjustment. Remember starwheels rolling away from the axle to tighten.

 

Now check your cables for and binding or damage. Like my passenger side cable is the troublemaker. It tends to rust up or bind. If so just replace both rear cables it works some much better when the cables actually move properly. 

 

So now that you know the cable move correctly you can adjust the slack. The nut on the threaded part is for slack adjustment that's all its not to adjust the parking brakes. So you need to tight just enough that the slack is out of the cable and it not dangling down nor is it so tight that you pulling the brakes on. There is no magic bullet here but common sense will get you close to right. If you adjusted too tight you notice the pedal barely makes half travel. If it's too lose it will go to the floor and not hold the truck. 

Got it thanks. Do you have a video clip of your Jacobs brake? And does anyone else have a video of there brakes? 

7 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Do you have a video clip of your Jacobs brake?

 

Sure do...

 

 

 

 

10 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Sure do...

 

 

 

 

Added the subtitles to see my function I'm doing. As you notice on the last video I was nearly stopped before I placed my foot on the brake pedal. I almost never touch that darn pedal and never press on very hard either. Exhaust brake does at least 80% of my stopping. Unless there is a panic stop or emergency stop the service brakes are up for the task because I've been using the exhaust brake for the majority of my speed control.

On 2/16/2018 at 10:42 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

Pacbrake PRXB is the strongest exhaust brake you can buy. 

https://pacbrake.com/product-lines/exhaust-brakes/

 

 

To be fair they all have the same peak retarding horsepower as they all produce a peak of 60 psi back pressure. 

 

From 2000+ rpms they are all equal, where the PRXB and BD are better than the Jacobs is from idle-2000 rpms as they build more pressure sooner. 

 

I have a Jacobs on mine and it will likely be replaced with a PRXB this winter. I'm pretty sure my Jacobs has a small tear in the diaphragm and it's no longer a supported product from Jacobs. 

 

I will actually lose retarding hp above 2000 rpms as I make about 75-80 psi of backpressure with my cam, but I'll gain retarding hp below 2000. It's going to be a trade off. I can hold the higher backpressure since I have 104# valve springs. 

11 minutes ago, AH64ID said:

 

To be fair they all have the same peak retarding horsepower as they all produce a peak of 60 psi back pressure. 

 

From 2000+ rpms they are all equal, where the PRXB and BD are better than the Jacobs is from idle-2000 rpms as they build more pressure sooner. 

 

I have a Jacobs on mine and it will likely be replaced with a PRXB this winter. I'm pretty sure my Jacobs has a small tear in the diaphragm and it's no longer a supported product from Jacobs. 

 

I will actually lose retarding hp above 2000 rpms as I make about 75-80 psi of backpressure with my cam, but I'll gain retarding hp below 2000. It's going to be a trade off. I can hold the higher backpressure since I have 104# valve springs. 

Will stock 24 valve valve springs hold a E brake?

My stock springs held the Banks break fine. 

1 hour ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Will stock 24 valve valve springs hold a E brake?

 

Yes. Only the 12V engines had 40 pound valve springs and had to be upgraded.

31 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Yes. Only the 12V engines had 40 pound valve springs and had to be upgraded.

 

What valve springs does 24 valve have?   (I never thought about that before.)

Just now, 015point9 said:

 

What valve springs does 24 valve have?   (I never thought about that before.)

 

Stock 24V comes with 60 pound springs.