I have a 1999 2500 with manual trans and I added a Quadzilla XZT with a tune that has a high idle on it .I was coming home from work one afternoon and turned off the highway onto a residential street and my rear tires hit a icy patch and started to spin , the rpm's came up and it felt like the high idle kicked in and the truck tried to take off on me , so I pushed in the clutch to stop it and the truck just shut down. I coasted it onto another street and stopped and tried to restart and it wouldn't so I let it set for a few minutes and then it fired right back up . Is there a rev limiter that can shut the truck down or a relay that can trip causing it to not restart and should I do away with the tune on the XZT with the high idle  ?

29 minutes ago, weaselguys said:

Is there a rev limiter that can shut the truck down

 

No. Just a RPM governor. 

 

30 minutes ago, weaselguys said:

a relay that can trip causing it to not restart

 

Security key fob could. There is an auto shutdown relay but I've never heard of anyone getting the conditions to cause it to shut down and prevent startup. 

I may change the tune to one without the high idle , it is nice at start up but I dont like it coming on when setting in traffic anyway.

 

The full Quadzilla only uses the high idle below your set coolant temperature or if you set level 0. Then the high idle becomes active.

This is my currant tune.

 

File Name: XZT+_1008
Models: DXZ29802
Software Version: 20080128
Feature Code Enabled: XZT+1008

Features:
• Factory Tuning file that all XZT+ Modules are shipped with
• Adds Automatic 1200 RPM High Idle
• Hi Idle not for use with Factory High Idle
• Adds Cold Engine Protection set at 170 deg Coolant Temperature
• High Idle will engage any time the vehicles is in warm up after 2 minutes of continuous idle regardless of switch position
• High Idle will only engage in the OFF setting once engine has reached 170 deg Coolant Temperature
• Module will default to the OFF setting regardless of switch position when Cold Engine Protection is enabled
• 1 Minute wait period before High Idle engages
• High Idle may be disabled by touching the accelerator pedal or by changing switch positions
• 2002 Trucks May also kill high idle with the brake pedal
• High Idle will engage regardless of temperature

 

but my high idle engages at a lower temp for some reason , I may change to this one

 

File Name: XZT+_1009
Models: DXZ29802
Software Version: 20080128
Feature Code Enabled: XZT+1009

Features:
• Factory Tuning file that all XZT+ Modules are shipped with
• Adds Automatic 1200 RPM High Idle
• Hi Idle not for use with Factory High Idle
• Toggle switch must be in the OFF position in order for High Idle to work
• 30 Second wait period before High Idle engages
• High Idle may be disabled by touching the accelerator pedal or by changing switch positions
• 2002 Trucks May also kill high idle with the brake pedal
• High Idle will engage regardless of temperature

 

or try a more aggressive one

 

File Name: XZT+_2006
Models: DXZ29802
Software Version: 20080128
Feature Code Enabled: XZT+2006

Features:
• Same Aggressive Tuning File as XZT+2000
• Adds Automatic 1200 RPM High Idle
• Hi Idle not for use with Factory High Idle
• Toggle switch must be in the OFF position in order for High Idle to work
• 1 Minute wait period before High Idle engages
• High Idle may be disabled by touching the accelerator pedal or by changing switch positions
• 2002 Trucks May also kill high idle with the brake pedal
• High Idle will engage regardless of temperature

 

If I switch tunes I will only use the stock or off setting for start ups.

Mopar1973man can you explain this to me is it just holding the waste gate closed or open to get more boost and do you think it is a good idea or not ?

 

That is similar to a J-hook.  Never seen anyone use a turnbuckle before.  It holds the wastegate closed, and allows more boost pressure to be built.

12 hours ago, trreed said:

That is similar to a J-hook.  Never seen anyone use a turnbuckle before.  It holds the wastegate closed, and allows more boost pressure to be built.

 

I may or may not be guilty of doing that exact same thing.

Personally, I would say upgrade the turbo HY35W is a small turbo with a 9cm² housing which is going to produce really fast spool ups choke point is down around 30-32 PSI. Where at least a HX35W is a 12cm² exhaust housing. I stepped up just beyond this and went to a HX35/40 Hybrid.  

 

The turnbuckle is a poor man's way of holding the wastegate shut permanently and could over spool the turbo.

He's got a 5 speed.  Already has the HX.  Plus it's a 99, so before the HY's time.  

 

Best idea to hold the gate closed longer is an adjustable boost elbow @weaselguys.

I didn't care for my Boost elbow maybe I have a junk one, hard to adjust to just the right spot and it has a small pin hole in it for bleeding air off, so basically it's a constant small boost leak. I just put a plug where a boost elbow goes and now rely on Quadzilla  defuel settings

Boost elbows are lame. These work way better. I used one of these to tune my compounds.

 

 

Basically a ball valve with a spring.

OK, so boost elbows are lame and these work much better.  I've never seen one.  

What are they called?   Where do they go?  How do they work?  Where do you buy them?

So many questions so little time, haha.

 

I dislike the boost elbow. I'm not sure if they're all the same but I want to say I've seen two types. One that simply restricts flow by making the orifice smaller...  Which will make the wastegate open later, which is nice, but then the pressure will overcome the smaller orifice in a short amount of time... And you're back to square one. I think the "good" ones have a hole to intentionally bleed this extra pressure off... Which is a boost leak. Which is lame. Even more lame, it's an intentional boost leak. No matter how small that leak is, it's still a leak.

 

Google search ball and spring boost controller, or regulator. Basically you have a ball in a seat, tentioned with a spring and the body of the unit is threaded to add or remove tention on the spring. 

 

Pressure on the inlet side will now have to overcome the ball and spring to allow air pressure to make it to the wastegate. When boost reference drops below the spring tension, the ball is closed, blocking an increase in pressure to the wastegate. No wasted air.

 

You might find multiple complicated ways to plumb these online, but I just ran mine in-line the silicone wastegate reference hose. Set my compounds up with this and was able to nail my pressure ratios at WOT exactly where I wanted them, with no deviation for as long as I feel like holding the skinny pedal down.

 

I stand behind the theory, and they are cheap as hell on fleabay. I honestly can't believe people use those boost elbows.

 

Edit: Here's a link to an example. Im pretty sure this is the exact one I have. If you're wondering why it's so cheap, it's because it's stupid simple.

 

https://m.ebay.ca/itm/Adjustable-Manual-Boost-Controller-MBC-Ball-Spring-for-Turbocharged-Vehicle-O0B6/361900309685?hash=item5442f07cb5:g:HjgAAOSwNnRYmpXx

Edited March 21, 20187 yr by kzimmer

I just bought one for $5.46.  Cheap 

Thanks

 

Saved

 

12 hours ago, kzimmer said:

 

https://m.ebay.ca/itm/Adjustable-Manual-Boost-Controller-MBC-Ball-Spring-for-Turbocharged-Vehicle-O0B6/361900309685?hash=item5442f07cb5:g:HjgAAOSwNnRYmpXx