Does my one have a list of supplies needed to do this. I couldn’t find an actual materials list in the articles about this mod. Thanks. 

If the engine is turning to slow it will never crank. 

Doesnt explain why my dash wont light up, and 1689 code is the only code the handheld will read...'Manufacture Control'

I'm getting so frustrated, I have column apart. I've undone wire looms...now I did just noticed my fuel relay in my TIPM does this weird click click clicking...even when i swap...bad tipm? Ecm? Also I noticed the CC topic above, and my cruise i can set but at some point it will floor and i have to brake to cancel, is this related to alternator? 

Edited February 7, 20205 yr by JAG1

I was not trying to say that it did. When I go thru problems I eliminate the simple things first. If the batteries or starter are to weak to start the engine you have to address it. Weak batteries can cause electronic glitches on there own. The 1689 is no communication between the ECM and the VP. If you go to the articles section under 2nd gen 24v, OBD error codes you will see it. This could be the VP or the ECM. The only fuel relay i know of is in the PDC and they do click when when powered up. Not knowing what all you have apart is going to make this a bit tricky. 

 

A good thing to do would be to start a new thread on this. It will get more eyes and brains on it than buried in this thread.

4 hours ago, dripley said:

 

 

A good thing to do would be to start a new thread on this. It will get more eyes and brains on it than buried in this thread.

Thanks Driley that is what I suggested too in a PM.

 

I think he's got a possible worn starter and a problem with a wire harness connector either under the dash and/ or behind the instrument cluster. 

Edited February 7, 20205 yr by JAG1

1 hour ago, JAG1 said:

Thanks Driley that is what I suggested too in a PM.

 

I think he's got a possible worn starter and a problem with a wire harness connector either under the dash and/ or behind the instrument cluster. 

Yep, I saw it.

1 hour ago, dripley said:

Yep, I saw it.

you saw it, I hammer it and PilotHouse2500 welds it     

34 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

you saw it, I hammer it and PilotHouse2500 welds it     

Wood Welders Inc. 

So possibly not the ecm? A connector? That would be fantastic...I think..

Yes it somewhat common to have a bad connection behind the instrument cluster. It is a main connector may not not be clicked in tight, And another one mentioned with this problem is under the dash near/ behind the radio too if I remember correctly. Check all connectors in the wire harness under the hood too. Some guys reported just having to disconnect and then reconnect (click back in place) and solved their problem. I think you also got worn starter contacts or brushes.

Interested in doing this mod!
 

Remind me again, where do I test for AC ripple? At the battery posts? Driver side battery says 0.05 VAC and passenger battery says 0.03 VAC. 

I always check mine on the charge post on the alternator. 

11 minutes ago, dripley said:

I always check mine on the charge post on the alternator. 

Correct place...

 

 

On 2/1/2019 at 2:14 PM, IBMobile said:

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Posted April 9, 2018 (edited)

 

 

2  Unplug ground wirer, the one (black/yellow) that comes by the alternator, at the aux. battery.

 

 

 

7  Cut the ground wire where the 4 wires are spliced into it and throw the old ground wire in the trash.

 

 

 

 

 

I'm finally getting around to taking care of this project but I have a question (please pardon my complete lack of knowledge of anything electrical, it's certainly my weakest area).

 

As IBMobile listed above: we unplug ground wire from grey plug from aux. battery and cut that wire at the splice near VP44 to make our new ground connection to the gear case.

 

What have people been doing with the piece of ground wire from the grey plug to the aux. battery negative terminal that is now dangling around doing nothing?

You cut out the part with the 4 small sensor wires that are fused together with some sort of factory clear plastic material with the shrink tube over it. Strip all four of those wires and solder to a single ring terminal and bolt behind the gear case near the VP.

 

Then using that same heavier cable solder another ring terminal on for the same bolt and run the other end with a lug to the drivers battery.

 

Now that grey connector just laying there disconnected goes away. It has problems. I had to go out and look at both my trucks negative post on the passenger battery but, one cable from the negative post goes to the alternator case (you can use an alternator case bolt).

 

Another ground from that same passenger battery post goes to the sheet metal inside the fender near the battery and another ground directly from same post to PCM.

 

Hope this helps. I just cleans up the whole system, but you will have problems some day if you don't better parallel those two batteries together with the additional cables and lugs needed. Needs to have a total of two + to + cables and two - to - cables to properly parallel. because if the passenger battery ever develops a bad cell it has no temp sensor to limit the alternator from overworking trying to fill a bottomless pit so to speak. It will get the alternator so hot you could short it out and take out the pcm with it.

 

 

Edited February 20, 20205 yr by JAG1

If it is the end that goes to the battery cable just tape it up, might come in handy one day. Or just cut it off. Maybe @JAG1 can confirm that after his coffee,

 

 

Edited February 20, 20205 yr by JAG1

4 hours ago, dripley said:

If it is the end that goes to the battery cable just tape it up, might come in handy one day. Or just cut it off. Maybe @JAG1 can confirm that after his coffee,

 

 

Yes, Dripley knows me well as I need coffee or I cannot breath...... I would use the grey connector wire for a better ground for the alternator. Just cut off the grey connector and add a ring terminal for grounding the alternator case. W-T recommends that be done and I have read a few articles on the benefits of a seperate ground for the alternator. Grounding thru a rusty bolted bracket has shown some problems.

 

You know what dripley..... W-T has told me quite a few amazing things about AC noise. Did you know that it would be good to ground the exhaust system because the vibration and inside friction inside an exhaust makes small amounts of AC noise. Ain't that something? 

I'm gonna run out and ground mine right now....................

10 hours ago, JAG1 said:

Yes, Dripley knows me well as I need coffee or I cannot breath...... I would use the grey connector wire for a better ground for the alternator. Just cut off the grey connector and add a ring terminal for grounding the alternator case. W-T recommends that be done and I have read a few articles on the benefits of a seperate ground for the alternator. Grounding thru a rusty bolted bracket has shown some problems.

 

You know what dripley..... W-T has told me quite a few amazing things about AC noise. Did you know that it would be good to ground the exhaust system because the vibration and inside friction inside an exhaust makes small amounts of AC noise. Ain't that something? 

 

Ah! I like that idea. Will incorporate that into the operation.

 

And I know what you mean about coffee, I get this light until I have some... 

11 minutes ago, dave110 said:

I'm gonna run out and ground mine right now....................

I'll have to ground my new resonator

I would. AC noise REALLY resonates through a resonator.