Hey guys,

 

   I'm looking for some recommendations on what ball joints U joints and wheel bearings I should get. It's for a 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 Cummins. It has the drum brakes in the rear so I'm assuming it's the 2 wheel ABS for the wheel bearings. Just looking for something good that's not going to fail in 5k miles. And the ball joints I don't care if they're greasable or not. I've been hearing Moog has gone downhill and pretty much avoid them for the balljoints and if i'm not mistaken i've seen mopar1973man recommend duralast but I was looking them up and it appears they are manufactured by Federal mogul as well, so kinda thrown off on what brands I should go with. And as far as U-joints go, is there really any specific brand that stands out?
 

TL;DR 

Which Ball joint, wheel bearing, and U-joints are going to be the best to replace the worn out stock stuff

Simple no Moog... Buy any other brand. Moog used to be American made now got outsourced to other countries and the quality has gone down. I've got cheap ball joints from Rock Auto and they are going to pass 200k miles soon. 

 

U-Joint typically I buy greaseable NAPA u-joints and not had much problem with them. As long as I keep them greased up they last quite a long time. 

 

Wheel bearings (Unit Bearings) typically get SKF from NAPA. Don't get suckered into the "Timken" name brand stuff. 

 

Most of the front end issues come from oversized tires. I'm one of the odd-ducks that went from 265's to 245's and still to this day have no suspension issues. No need for steering braces, modified track bar, etc. None of that is needed. 

 

I went with original spicer stuff from local Sadler Power Train, not sure how long they will last. Some had very bad luck and others good. Too early to tell ye for me. Seems original stuff lasted longest, it would made since to go with same but quality may be different from back then. It's a tough call all around. 

Just put new Timpken front wheel bearings in (made in usa) and one is dropping signal, not sure if it's bearing or abs module or wiring, seems like a bearing at this point. Got Timpkens because of reviews and made in USA now not sure, I'll try to warranty one of them our in spring through RockAuto and if they will warranty it out and abs/brake light goes away I'll know it a faulty bearing. Realy sad that we are dealing with this crap.

59 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

U-Joint typically I buy greaseable NAPA u-joints and not had much problem with them. As long as I keep them greased up they last quite a long time. 

 

 

 

Is there a specific type of u-joint for each part, such as the front axle needs x type and the driveshaft needs y type or are they the same throughout the truck?

All u-joints are different. Rear shaft is different from the front shaft. The axle shafts are different as well.

 

As for me, all the OEM stuff lasted the shortest. I ended up replacing all the OEM u-joints before 50k miles. Ball joints barely lasted 150k miles and failed now my cheap Rock Auto ball joints are going to beat OEM hands down. The only thing that lasted long is the OEM tie rod ends at 350k miles.

Edited March 3, 20196 yr by Mopar1973Man

The original axle and drive universals are still in the truck. That being said when it was ball joint time I went with Spicer again. Mistake. They lasted 12k miles. Have AC Delco in now from Rock Auto. I went the cheap route with unit bearings on my 300M Chrysler. Twice they lasted just past the 1 year warranty and failed. I will only run Timken or SKF for a unit bearing, not because I'm suckered in by the name but because they are quality and it's too important of a part to go with Chinese junk. Some have reported SKF has a foreign line now but the industrial stuff we use at work is still USA made.

18 minutes ago, dave110 said:

Spicer again. Mistake. They lasted 12k miles.

I still can't believe that was the outcome with spicers, did you at least get your money back for them. I'm hoping I won't have same experience but time will tell

Ask @Me78569 about his Spicer ball joints...

I started a thread a while back with pics and a video of the worn out joint. No money back. Didn't even try. How much time can I spend bickering with a big company like that for ~$100 worth of parts? Not worth while. First thing they'd do is blame the installer. I just moved on and saved myself a bunch of   and continue to say  to Spicer.

I went NAPA greasables for u joints on axle and driveshafts, XRF greasables for ball joints and switched to the freespin kit where the wheel bearings are repackable and inexpensively replaceable so can't help much there. 

I have 3 old/new stock u joints, non geasable for the drive shaft and would pay a premium for the same on any front end or drive line part if I could find them. This from the man who is still riding on all MOOG parts on the steering after 200k. Bought it all just pre federal mogul.

Just now, dripley said:

This from the man who is still riding on all MOOG parts on the steering after 200k. Bought it all just pre federal mogul.

 

Lucky... 

1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Lucky... 

Lucky maybe, I paid 50 bucks each for the 3 I bought. Now if they last another 465k I will never know

Happy I have them though.

That blows my mind @dripley every time you say you have 450k + miles on your original driveshaft U joints

5 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

That blows my mind @dripley every time you say you have 450k + miles on your original driveshaft U joints

Me too since I already replaced the front axle u joints. I hardly ever use the 4wd either. Figured thats why I still have the oe front drive shaft.

Dont want to hijack the thread, but I am doing this right now. I just tore into my front end after 195k on OEM parts to do ball joints. I went with Timken hubs, and have EMF ball joints to install. Throwing new calipers and lines on as well. Hubs did not want to come out. Which brings me to a related question, how tight of a fit should the new hub have in the knuckle? Despite the old one needing pounding to remove the new one easily slides in and fully seats. Wasn't sure if it should be an interference fit or not? 

Ought to slip right right in, mine did. Put some anti sieze on there so they come out easy if you have to mess witth them again.

5 hours ago, Direwolf said:

Dont want to hijack the thread, but I am doing this right now. I just tore into my front end after 195k on OEM parts to do ball joints. I went with Timken hubs, and have EMF ball joints to install. Throwing new calipers and lines on as well. Hubs did not want to come out. Which brings me to a related question, how tight of a fit should the new hub have in the knuckle? Despite the old one needing pounding to remove the new one easily slides in and fully seats. Wasn't sure if it should be an interference fit or not? 

Personally I would rebuild the calipers yourself, unless the housings are rotting away, some of the stuff they sell will only last a year or two if you're lucky.  It may be a lifetime warranty but you still have to mess with it. It's pretty easy to rebuild, and the kit is like 5 bucks online.

My hubs went in the hole very easy also, everything got lots of anti seize on it. So far so good, aside from intermittent ABS brake light. Snap-On scanner says it's my driver's side sensor drop in the signal, but my old hubs did the same thing so not sure if it's a BS computer or a new hub.

Good to hear. Everything will definitely be getting anti seize. I hear you on rebuilding the calipers. Did them before when I did 3rd gen brakes, but still ended up sticking. This time I'm gonna try new Raybestos Opti-cal calipers. They are 3rd gen calipers since they dont make them for 2nd. I'll just open the lines up for th 10mm banjo on the 3rd gen calipers and be good to go. 

Take your ball joints out of package on parts store counter. Make sure all stems are tight. If the stem flops around tell them you dont want that one.

I did mine last winter.  And had to cull one back while in the store.

 

5 years ago I changed driver side unit bearing then a month ago the passenger. Ran each side till it melted the sensor. Gota get my money's worth right. ;)

 

All parts now days are junk, doesnt matter where they come from