After testing and conferring the consensus is my truck needs a new torque convertor.  The truck is used 95% of the time towing a 8,000+ pound 5th wheel and the transmission is basically stock.    Which brand is good and which type, stock or billet?  Should it be a single or triple disk?  High or low stall speed?  Any thing else you can think of.

Billet low or stock stall single disk 

Brand I couldn't say one is better than the other but I run a Goerend.  A billet single disc would be more than fine considering the weight that you are pulling and the mods you have.  A stall speed equal to stock or only slightly higher would be ideal.  You should also upgrade the valvebody to increase line pressure to help your new TC. 

 

Other cheaper mods to ponder if you upgrade the valvebody:  Borg Warner governor solenoid, billet accumulator, billet lever, billet strut, billet anchor, billet servo cover.  These are all optional but are weak spots with higher line pressure...and can be done without disassembling everything except for just removing the valvebody.  An aluminum deep pan would also be a smart investment. 

Just now, Bullet said:

Brand I couldn't say one is better than the other but I run a Goerend.  A billet single disc would be more than fine considering the weight that you are pulling and the mods you have.  A stall speed equal to stock or only slightly higher would be ideal.  You should also upgrade the valvebody to increase line pressure to help your new TC. 

 

Other cheaper mods to ponder if you upgrade the valvebody:  Borg Warner governor solenoid, billet accumulator, billet lever, billet strut, billet anchor, billet servo cover.  These are all optional but are weak spots with higher line pressure...and can be done without disassembling everything except for just removing the valvebody.  An aluminum deep pan would also be a smart investment. 

I'm actually heading to goerend tomorrow

Just now, Silverdodge said:

I'm actually heading to goerend tomorrow

They are good people and they took care of me.  They got about $5k out of me but I overbuilt...got the bulletproof package with billet everything.  Flawless thus far. 

Did you just ask if you should get a stock style or billett. I should slap you.

 

Billet billet and more billet.

May as well do a billet flexplate from georend to. I did. I also did arp flexplate bolts just for some insurance. 

Edited September 1, 20195 yr by JAG1

6 minutes ago, Evan said:

I also did arp flexplate bolts just for some insurance. 

I was considering that too when I did mine.  How tight did you torque them...stock specs or tighter? 

Stock

 I also put red lock tite on them after cleaning bolts and threads with cleaner.

 

Wait I think arp had a spec for them I used. Either way I dont think itl matter as long they're tight

 

I did not replace my rear main seal. Now its leaking

4 hours ago, Evan said:

...

 

I did not replace my rear main seal. Now its leaking

Now who should be slapped???

Lol.

I have a hard time fixing something that ain't broke. 

If something is broke I can fix it if it's not broke it's a 50/50 chance that it becomes broke ounce I'm done fixing it. This time I just saved labor

 

 

Edited August 21, 20195 yr by Evan

If it makes you feel any better I had the rear main seal replaced at my last clutch install 110k miles ago. Was not leaking but but was OE. The new one starts leaking 10k later. 

10 hours ago, Evan said:

Lol.

I have a hard time fixing something that ain't broke. 

If something is broke I can fix it if it's not broke it's a 50/50 chance that it becomes broke ounce I'm done fixing it. This time I just saved labor

 

 

That's pretty much how I roll as well.  If I were paying for it to be done I would have a different view.  But since it's my own labor I can afford to roll the dice.  I didn't change my rear seal when I rebuilt my trans either.  So far so good on the original at 205k. 

My OE had about 370k on it.

Just now, dripley said:

My OE had about 370k on it.

That's pretty comforting info for me.  If mine makes it anywhere near yours I will consider the gamble a win.  If I end up having to pull the tranny before then I'll have to revisit the decision again. 

170k on mine and it's leaking.  I lose about 1/2qt between oil changes

There you go raining on my parade.  I liked @dripley's OE seal better.  

15 minutes ago, hdpwipmonkey said:

170k on mine and it's leaking.  I lose about 1/2qt between oil changes

About a quart every 1200 miles here. I am jealous.

Edited August 22, 20195 yr by dripley

Half qt every 10 k here

11 hours ago, dripley said:

About a quart every 1200 miles here. I am jealous.

On the bright side all you need to do is change your oil filter every once in awhile.

It is my assumption that rebuilding an automatic trans is complex enough to cause making a mistake very easy. The individual must be essentially doing it all the time and knowledgeable about necessary upgrades in a way that the rebuilder knows by experience from always tearing them down, how important they are.

 

Making sure the rebuilder goes to Chick-Fil-A for lunch might be a good start in your investigation 

1 hour ago, Dieselfuture said:

On the bright side all you need to do is change your oil filter every once in awhile.

Matter of fact thats what I did the last time. With idling I have been doing in this heat the 1200 miles a quart shrinks to 700 or 800.