I installed a Fass Fuel pump & water seperation system & in the instructions it simply says unplug the power for the stock lift pump. Well needless to say that equals codes & Fass tech support had 2 suggestions.

1. leave it uplugged & if the code bothers you some code readers will erase that code from the system. Umm no.

2. If you go to an auto parts store you can by a resistor, "I believe it's 5 ohm & plug the power line into that & it simply tricks the ECM into thinking that it is plugged in and working fine. (hmm sounds like a guess, guessing I can do on my own thx)

So anybody have a better idea?  

 

I'm actually getting 3 codes & it almost started twice, but I refuse to do long cranks.  I have fuel up to the injectors already I started with 1,3,5 lines being loose.

P1693 JTEC detected companion?,  P1688 Internal Inj. pump controller failure, P0238 (I think) transfer pump curcuit out of range.

Going to finish reviewing all my installs check it again after clearing codes & trying to fire it again.

 

Thank you all. !

P.S. The instructions on this Fass System leave a lot to be desired I mean WOW.  Another time I will elaborate.

most lift pumps are powered through a relay that is triggered using the stock power plug.  This does not trigger a code and also makes sure the aftermarket pump acts like the stock program intended.  

What model fass, how did you hook it up. 2 power wires for motor go to battery and a plug, plugs close to ecm area.

9My AD and ithought the FASS came with thr relay and wiring harness that you just plug the OE pump into like @Me78569 mentions.

 

The 1693 is one computer telling the other computer has a code in it also.

The 238 is a map sensor high voltage code

The 1688 is the one to worry about. That is a VP code.

They are all listed in the articles section.

I'm guessing the vp code may go away if lift pump works correctly 

I installed mine like @Me78569 mentioned.  Power from OE lift pump to relay and power from drivers side battery.  I just followed the instructions that came with the Fass.  I had no issues with the install.  bumped the key to prime the system and cracked loose the number 1,3,5 lines and turned key a few times till diesel was spraying out pretty well while cranking and then then tightened them up and turned the key and it started and idled rough a little while till all the air was out then it ran like a (noisy) top.  

 

@OmahaGen2 did yours not come with the relay and wiring?

I have to agree with @dripley about the P1688 code.  I think that's the code my VP44 set when it died.  You should run the Blue Chip Diesel VP44 diagnostic tests to verify if the pump is good or not.

             https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/runningtests

 

This is how I've wired my fuel pump using the ECM as the trigger with no restore needed. 

 

1688 is the PSG on the VP44 is fried. This is caused by excessive AC noise which is bad alternator and poor ground issues. W-T ground wire mod will fix this from happening again.

Sorry for the long delay. Had to finish it up & slam it into the paint shop.

 

Found a couple problems & fixed a few.  #1 1688 was operator error, New VP plug (3 prong under pump) was NOT plugged in.

2. The harness they sent works fine if you hook it up correctly (I had the wrong instructions & that was "mostly" on Fass).  

3. Return line regulator (Spring with checkball) was stuck. Ball became stuck in spring, etc & was spiking the fuel pressure.

So since I corrected these issues: No more codes, return fuel starts immediately as it should (although I think the return line should be as big as the inlet side in ***) & with the "New & Improved" regulator they sent immediately, All is well again.

I did install the 165 & correct me if I'm wrong, but with the proper return the only down side is it keeps polishing fuel.

 

I updated & upgraded quite a bit at one time (more than I probably should have), but I was in already in there right?

I did get the New VP44 (rebuild with new ALL) new Injectors, tubes, vac pump rebuild, water pump, belt, & tensioner,  Bolied, tested the radiator (due to catch can tube) (WOW, Mine looked just like the pic's you have on here,) Remote catch can & line, Harmonic dampner, Front crank seal, new gauges fuel/pyro/boost in the pod, (removed 3 miles of dead wiring under dash, 1 was an actual phone landline) reworked wiring for gear vendor overdrive, wrapped all other wiring, detailed the motor a bit. & here she is running. 

I have yet to install Quadzilla & APPS although I have them.

 

Btw, I could not have done all this without this forum.  Thank you.

Edited December 22, 20195 yr by OmahaGen2

Good to hear. Looks nice under your hood.