I put new rebuilt calipers on last front brake work with new pads.   Front Passenger side pads wore out a little more than drivers side

 

The second set of front pads same thing is happening .   These are auto zone rebuilt calipers lifetime guaranty so I can replace free... Im thinking I just got a bad caliper.  Do you think the drivers side caliper is bad since its pads arent wearing as much?

 

 

Edited January 3, 20205 yr by GSP7

After a good long run place your hand on the wheel center to see if the passenger side is hotter than the left side. I'm going to buy one of those temp sensor guns, have it under the seat as I've had a lot of caliper failures. Changing the brake fluid every two years helps alot. Keeps the water from settling in the caliper pistons and causing rust.

Im sure its hotter. Ive noticed that many times

 

Anyone have rubber brake hoses go bad inside? 170k miles on my '99

 

Im on rock auto site pricing the rubber brake hoses looks like the left is $28, right is $11... Rabestos ... Funny they show a left ac delco but no right .... Not sure about their selection

 

1999 only has rear ABS,,,, Not front ... Correct ? .....Double checking

 

 

Do you have ABS sensors in the front wheel bearings? If not you only have RWAB.

This is why I would rather rebulid my own calipers. The kits at only $5 to $7 dollars for the seals and boots. Then the slide pin kit is like $5 dollars as well. Then you can replace all the pins and slide boots. Then lube the slide pins up properly. During the rebuild you can check the slide of the piston in the caliper body. Then tun e each piston to fit correctly. I've got an article on this exactly. 

 

 

406k miles and rolling. 200K miles on these brakes and rolling.

When I bought my truck the guy had some shop put new brakes on the front and new rotors.

They phucked up the front bearings. 

 

When I just bought my truck I put new front bearings on it...... THe old bearing, what ever they did, they didnt have the races seated.  The unibearings came apart when they pulled it apart and they didnt seat them back...... I got the old bearing ip seat the races back but figured they were probably damaged , so I had New Timkins to install.

 

Im wondering if my rubber hoses are bad and clogged . I jacked up and checked wheel spin a couple weeks ago after driving and the brakes and rotors were hot and spinning the wheels there was quite abit of resistance.... I going to check again this morning cold

 

 

.

34 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

 

406k miles and rolling. 200K miles on these brakes and rolling.

 

200k on a set of disc brake pads...... yeah right.......  I call ya on that tale

Edited January 3, 20205 yr by GSP7

8 minutes ago, GSP7 said:

Im wondering if my rubber hoses are bad and clogged .

 

Only happens when you don't change your brake fluid every 30k miles. If the brake fluid is dark or black till to dump and refill. This means pulling the calipers and cleaning the debris out of the bottom of then too so it doesn't bind up the pistons. Hence the OP problem dragging brakes...

 

10 minutes ago, GSP7 said:

200k on a set of disc brake pads...... yeah right.......  I call ya on that tale

 

1st was 185k miles. Second set I got 200k miles out of.

 

Exhaust brakes are wonderful thing. I can drive most of my 125 mile trip to Ontario and never touch the brakes unless I need to stop. Slowing down is done all on the exhuast brake and service brake is only used at 20 MPH and lower.

Seen bad front hoses on quite a few different vehicles. 

More on Dodge Rams than any other specific make or model.  (4 on Rams,  5-6 on all other instances)

I don't think there is a specific problem, but it is interesting.

 

HTH

Hag

So far never had a bad brake hose on ANY vehicle I've owned. But I've always changed my brake fluid at 30k miles.

Neither have I, but I help others fix their problem children.  Especially after the dealer or another mechanic has given up on it....

 

Hag

@Mopar1973Man is right on the exhaust brake. I used to go maybe 60k on set of front pads. After the EB close 200k.

I had a 69 ford F250 that had a front disc brake completely lock up. It was a bad brake hose

All my other old trucks never had bad hoses.... Even my 81 chevy k20 has all original hose lines.

 

PS- I jacked up the front of my truck this morning and both wheels spin free easy, so nothing is sticking cold

 

.

 

 

Ok ,,, good on an exhaust brake and long pad life

 

I'm always on the brakes, easy on them and baby it, but these auto trans, high geared 3:50 ratio trucks dont slow down when you off the go pedal , even idling there pulling.  My k20 chevy turbo 400 auto with 4:10 gears let of and it slows with no brakes easy

Edited January 3, 20205 yr by GSP7

GS,

 

Keep watching the hoses.  I have seen some that hold residual pressure for hours, and I have seen some that hold it only for short periods, and some that hold residual only at certain times.  This past summer (on vacation no less), buddies Suburbasaurus, would pull at some stops, stop straight other times, and finally locked up completely.  When we went to move the truck to a place where we could repair it, it was no longer locked, and didn't even pull once heading to the parts store.  Replaced caliper and hose (shot gun ) (was it the hose or the caliper...) and I could not blow through the hose when we took it off....

 

GL

Hag

3 hours ago, Haggar said:

buddies Suburbasaurus

Suburban bred with Subaru? 

Hey,,,, My truck is 8800 GVW..... Is the any difference in calipers rotors etc?  between 7500 gvw and 8800 gvw parts?  

 

Im guessing they are the same .

 

On rock auto some have a choice of 8800 or 7500. Is that just and excuse to charge you more for the same part?

 

Gottcha below Hagger.... On 8800

 

I gravity bled last time.  Just watched a vid on gravity bleeding again..... That's what I'll do again since Im by my self... It works great

 

Im out of post limit for today , looks like

.

Edited January 3, 20205 yr by GSP7

GS,

Just did a quick search.   There is a difference.   (rotor thickness being one that has popped up.)

Get the 8800 if yours is 8800.

 

DF,

 

Lol  no not bred with any subaru parts, but the subies don't fare well when confronting the big slow slug.  in fact they kinda just fall to pieces... 

A vehicle's GVW is based on it's stopping ability that is why the 8800 GVW brake parts are larger.  

UPDATE:

 

Installed new front brake pads, new calipers, flushed brake fluid with new.

 

Sticking brake problem solved looks like.... I bought new hoses just in case but didnt install  them so Ill return for money back

 

Problem was just sticky calipers.

 

Calipers had a life time guaranty so it cost me $0.00.  Pads also had a life time guaranty too (Hee Hee)

 

Total cost was $8.00 for the 32 oz bottle of synthetic brake fluid

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 5, 20205 yr by GSP7

9 hours ago, GSP7 said:

UPDATE

 

Calipers had a life time guaranty so it cost me $0.00.  Pads also had a life time guaranty too (Hee Hee)

 

Total cost was $8.00 for the 32 oz bottle of synthetic brake fluid

 

 

 

 

 

Pretty soon the parts stores are going to say, 'there is no 'lifetime warranty' any more on those second gen cummins 

Edited January 5, 20205 yr by JAG1

49 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

Pretty soon the parts stores are going to say, 'there is no 'lifetime warranty' any more on those second gen cummins 

 

I wish they'd life time warranty air filters , oil filters, oil, batteries, tires, tank full of fuel ......

 

 

.

 

 

On 1/4/2020 at 10:32 PM, GSP7 said:

Total cost was $8.00 for the 32 oz bottle of synthetic brake fluid

 

I would of opted for DOT4 vs Synthetic brake fluid. At least with DOT4 you can withstand more brake fluid temperature and few other bonuses. DOT5 is the extreme brake fluid with the highest boiling point for brake fluid.

 

Most applications call for a DOT3 (401F dry/284F wet) or DOT4 (446F dry/311F wet) fluid, which is considered a higher performance fluid since it can handle more heat. While both fluids are glycol ether based, DOT4 contains a certain amount of borate ester which allows it to handle more heat.

 

DOT5 is a silicone-based fluid that was developed for use where moisture or water was almost certain to be a factor in the braking system, such as military applications. While DOT5 has a higher boiling point (500F dry/356F wet) than DOT3 or DOT4, DOT5 exhibits more compressibility than glycol ether brake fluid. There are DOT4 fluids with boiling points that exceed DOT5 so there’s really no need to consider using DOT5 for on-road use.

 

DOT3 and DOT 4 cannot be mixed with DOT5 fluid. They are incompatible and if mixed, brake failure may occur.  Moreover, there are serious compatibility issues when using DOT5 in a system that was engineered to use DOT3 or DOT4. Also, users should take care not to mix DOT3 and DOT4 fluids as there may be brake system compatibility issues. Always consult your owners manual and use the type of fluid specified for your vehicle.