So I'm in the process of putting the truck back together and I ran into an issue. My fass draw straw is oof the old design, the new fittings I got for my fass don't work with the fass95. So I was going to take the inner during on the draw straw and use that on the fass pump. But that leaves my draw straw. 

 

I was looking at getting the Fass Sump kit since it allows you to draw from the inside of the bowl. Being here in Jersey I don't foresee any issues with hitting brush, etc that could cause it it be knocked out. I refuse to use a sump that requires an external hose, as I'm currently dealing with an enlarged hole for my old draw straw. 

 

If your wondering this is what it looks like.

 

https://www.xtremediesel.com/fass-stk-5500-fuel-sump-kit?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyKPM25us5wIVGKSzCh20sQvFEAQYASABEgL2a_D_BwE

 

Anyone have any long term reports of it's reliability, if it leaks, etc. I'm currently on the fence with buying one, vs trying to find more fittings. 

 

It would be nice to get back to putting 30 gallons of diesel in the truck lol

That sump looks promising almost like a draw straw only it always sits on the bottom and it should plug your hole from the old straw with that new ionized fitting.

What fittings do you need, jic  ?  have you checked local hydraulic places

It does look promising. But I get shivers up my spine when I start thinking about drilling a hole in the bottom of my tank. My AD set up will drain the tank. Would not like it if it did not. I run my tank low on long highway runs.

As far as any experience with that sump, I have none.

I'll never do a sump again or spend $$ for a drawstraw.  Bulk head fitting thru fuel module (and to plug drawstraw hole)  1/2 inch (diesel compatible pipe) down to where you suck fuel at.  Put in a bowl if you like, return fuel drizzle into bowl.  Drill a few holes in sides of bowl if you'd like.  Just my opinion after a sump spring a leak.

9 minutes ago, dripley said:

It does look promising. But I get shivers up my spine when I start thinking about drilling a hole in the bottom of my tank. My AD set up will drain the tank. Would not like it if it did not. I run my tank low on long highway runs.

As far as any experience with that sump, I have none.

The way I understand you take your module out slide that sump in and install it through the whole of the old draw straw in the top. No holes drilled in the bottom. I believe that thing just sits in the bottom of the tank

8 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

The way I understand you take your module out slide that sump in and install it through the whole of the old draw straw in the top. No holes drilled in the bottom. I believe that thing just sits in the bottom of the tank

The instructions tell you to drill a 2 3/4" hole in the low point of the tank.

8 minutes ago, dripley said:

The instructions tell you to drill a 2 3/4" hole in the low point of the tank.

Well screw that then

Problem is when the seal gives up will you be able to get a new seal for the sump. There has been a few that did sumps then had leaks then could not get new seals. Then the hunt is on for a replacement fuel tank. Which one member told me was a tough deal and expensive.

I did one of Beans diesel sump about 5 years ago and couldn’t get much below half a tank without truck cutting out. I decided I didn’t get the sump exactly under the factory pickup so I cut up another tank. Same thing happened with that tank too. Don’t remember any leaking but couldn’t use more than 20 gallons of a 35 gallon tank. 

I've run two different sumps, two different trucks. Never any leaks. Nothing can ever get close to it to rip it off, pretty much impossible, it's nowhere near the lowest point on the truck. Follow the instructions and there is no risk.

 

I have the regular Fass sump on this truck currently with the plumbing out the sump itself. I've never even began to regret it. As a bonus, if I ever need to, I can run my tank a lot lower if for some reason I can't get to a gas station. No 1/4 tank issues, and my frame mounted Walbro lift pump doesn't need to do any extra work to suck from the tank.

 

I had to drain my tank a couple weeks ago after suspicion that I had some bad fuel. I ran the tank until the lyometer said I had "0 km to empty". Then drove another 10 km in the city, and made it home. Draining the tank was stupid easy, since when I did the plumbing I put in a tee and a ball valve. Took like 15 minutes including a filter change. The thing that blew my mind, was even after I ran the tank this low, I still had 5 gallons of fuel come out! It's good to know just in case I ever need to run low again.

 

Oh, btw, if you ever need to replace the seals, which I haven't,  they are just O-Rings. Nothing special.

Edited February 1, 20205 yr by kzimmer
Clarification