What type of mpgs can I see with 7x0.010 if I have a light foot? I just ordered a set from DAP and am going to replace my 50hp injectors that I got years ago from diesel speed shop. The best fuel economy I have gotten with them lately is 18-19 hand calculated at the pump. I'm very very light on the throttle and usually the slowest on the road cruising at 60. I could have sworn that when I first got those that I hand calc'd near 20-21 but can't seem to get those figures anymore. Also had the pressures set to 310 bar at a local shop and they told me that 2 were starting to leak but that it shouldn't affect fuel economy and might only be a bit smokey on startup (which is what I was experiencing before). This is why I have chose the 7x0.010 injectors and to also have a little fun sometimes. I have a quadzilla adrenaline with v2 tuning and am planing to dial in those injectors really well for fuel economy. I'm going to start with mopar1973mans tune and adjust from there. Also, is there any timing difference between the stock 235 hp engine and the HO with the 17.2cr? I'm wondering if should adjust my timing a little lower or possibly higher to compensate. I also have the HO vp44 but I may go to a SO in the future to see if there will be any differences in fuel economy with the HO motor. Thanks guys!

Edited February 22, 20205 yr by Southpole560
Typo

29 minutes ago, Southpole560 said:

I wonder how much timing it adds to stock. That would be interesting to see.

@Mopar1973Man would know more about that than. Right now my comp is pretty much an EZ without the pump tapped.

 

18 to 18.5 was pretty much where mine was when new.

Edited February 23, 20205 yr by dripley

17 hours ago, Southpole560 said:

I wonder how much timing it adds to stock. That would be interesting to see.

 

About 2 degrees on average. But the load limit is 20% and the timing retard quickly above 20% engine load. The only way to keep timing on a Edge Comp or Edge EZ is drive slower. 55 MPH is limit for this device to keeping the engine load down so timing stays up! Like the Quadzilla I'm pretty well locked to 19 to 20 degree at 2k RPM. My last trip to Lewiston, Idaho I twisted out 21.25 MPG. 

 

I agree with mike . A set of tools on hand isnt worth anything without parts.

However I run around a couple lbs shy of 10k lots of tools welder and torch on board with 34s and seem to get decent numbers.

My situation requires tools as there is no shop to drag things to. 

I'm unfamiliar with the term hypermiling.

 What does that mean? (Sorry if it's a dumb question)

 I'm watching this thread as I would like better mpg eventually. 

Hypermiling is the point at which you have gauges for everything. Basically anything that creates heat is a loss of power. Reduce heat loss by reducing weight, wind drag, and rolling resistance. Like me I done all the weight and rolling resistance part. I just need to keep he engine load down and timing in the sweet spot. Timing is based on two factors which most will not get. Cetane of the fuel and the pop pressure of your injectors. Cetane that is high requires more retard, of course low cetane require more advanced timing. Pop pressure is going to affect clean atomized spray or big droplets that are difficult to vaporize and ignite. Hence why my 7 x 0.010 injectors were popped at 320 bar not 305 bar like most get. This provide a very fine mist but the timing is late. Quadzilla allows for adapting to different pop pressures and cetane. This is where Edge screws up big time. It follows the stock timing and adds rough +2 on top. So if the IAT temp falls to 80 or lower the ECM automagically jump +4 degrees to timing screwing up the winter MPG even worse. Hence this where my MPG fooler came to existence is because I understood colder air ment over advanced timing. Like myself my Quadziila is setup to watch Intake Air Temperature, Coolant Temperature and Engine Oil Temperature. As timing gets advanced oil temp will rise, being more flame front is against the cylinder walls. If timing is off engine load typically rises, this is due to being either retarded and only a percentage of the power is actually doing work. Or... If its too advanced the engine produces negative torque slowing the piston down as its still rising in the cylinder. So at the proper timing the engine load will be super low. Typically 65 MPH is about 16 to 17% for me. I data log all my fuel and have for years. 

 

High mark best is 27.2 MPG (Edge Comp, stock injectors)

Last high was 21.25 MPG

Typical average is 19 MPG currently.

Edited February 24, 20205 yr by Mopar1973Man

Haha I didnt know what it meant either.

 

I'm one of the hypermiling nuts... Being hitting high MPG numbers for long time. My goal is to bet the 1997 Dodge 1 ton in the Diesel Power Magazine which made a solid 30 MPG. Still short 3 MPG to reaching that lofty goal. Now that I'm not a dialysis schedule any more those days are going to return and high numbers will start popping again. 

How did they do it in 97 with a dually 12v

Cut wind drag and drove slower. No engine mods, fully stock.

1 hour ago, Doubletrouble said:

I'm unfamiliar with the term hypermiling.

 What does that mean? (Sorry if it's a dumb question)

 I'm watching this thread as I would like better mpg eventually. 

It is the art of trying to get every last .10th of a mile out of a tank fuel. By whatever means. I like good mileage as much as anyone but on my by weekly trips to and from home for work I dont drive 55 mph to get better mileage, l drive 75 to spend less time on the highway. Every extra hour in the truck is one less hour at home.

 Yeah I get that dripley, time at home is worth a little less mpg. I won't go crazy with the mpg battle but I figure once the motor wakes up a bit with better power through injectors, tuning and a few other light mods to make it more efficient. I don't expect to get 20-25 mpg but a little better than the 16 I get now would be good. It will probably go up some once we get out of the winter blend fuel season as well.

1 hour ago, dripley said:

I like good mileage as much as anyone but on my by weekly trips to and from home for work I dont drive 55 mph to get better mileage, l drive 75 to spend less time on the highway. Every extra hour in the truck is one less hour at home.

 

Same here. My problem back with MoparMom see tends to be slow so I was typically running faster than normal to make up time. Now that is all a wash now and there is no schedules so now my MPG is starting to climb. 

10 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Same here. My problem back with MoparMom see tends to be slow so I was typically running faster than normal to make up time. Now that is all a wash now and there is no schedules so now my MPG is starting to climb. 

My drive from here is 4 and half hours. But I85 is 7nder consturuction thru a lot od SC and can get crappy. It is improving but that drive has taken 6 and hours due to traffic. On days I see it coming I take a northern route up thru Ashville NC. About 5 and a half hour drive but traffic flows better and the scenery is much nicer through the mountains.

How did they do it in 97 with a dually 12v

2wd?

Iirc it was a 2wd single cab. They folded mirrors in and taped paper plates or cardboard over the simulators. Drove 55 with windows up and no ac in California summer. 

13 hours ago, Evan said:

I agree with mike . A set of tools on hand isnt worth anything without parts.

However I run around a couple lbs shy of 10k lots of tools welder and torch on board with 34s and seem to get decent numbers.

My situation requires tools as there is no shop to drag things to. 

I don't really have an option to take the tools out. I unfortunately live in a semi truck (truck driver) and don't have the space for anything. But a house is in the near future! And a new job lol.

13 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Cetane that is high requires more retard, of course low cetane require more advanced timing.

What cetane rating do you have in Idaho? I know in Oregon the specifications are no less than 47 cetane but I'm not sure what the rating is for B20 that I get at the shell station. I'm thinking it might be a bit higher than 47 at that shell. I've gotten the fuelling on your eco tune down pretty well to accommodate my RV275's, but I still think my timing is slightly off. That run where I got 18.9mpg going to Pendleton was with the advancement dropped down to 2° from the original 3°. I currently have it at 2.4 but am thinking if I should possibly drop it a bit lower than 2 and see how that plays out with the B20.

 

Should I just be adjusting the base timing instead of the cruise timing?

Edited February 25, 20205 yr by Southpole560

I have 100's from DAP that i got reset to 322BAR and I love every moment of it.

On 2/24/2020 at 8:58 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

On 2/24/2020 at 8:58 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

 This is where Edge screws up big time. It follows the stock timing and adds rough +2 on top. So if the IAT temp falls to 80 or lower the ECM automagically jump +4 degrees to timing screwing up the winter MPG even worse.  

 

Do you know if the Quad XZT+ overcomes those limitations? (They advertise it as monitoring more parameters, but they do not specify in any literature I've read).

Edited February 26, 20205 yr by jman

No Canned tuner.

You can't change timing values. Only Quadzilla can. Well Smarty Touch could but it cost 1800 for 60 HP tuner.

24 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

No Canned tuner.

You can't change timing values. Only Quadzilla can. Well Smarty Touch could but it cost 1800 for 60 HP tuner.

Do all the Quad v2 tune files here monitor and adjust acc. to Intake Air Temperature, Coolant Temperature and Engine Oil Temperature or just your tunes? I'm looking to run a setup similar to what you used to run, Mopar1973Man: bhaf, 4" exhaust, hx35 stock with boost elbow, rv275 injectors. Mostly daily with some towing.