Hey Guys, as you know I'm one of a few guys running a modified truck around here with larger injectors popped to 322BAR. So far the truck is running 100HP injectors a Dynamic Valve Body, and a Smarty. Current Smarty Settings are SW#7 TM3, T3,D4. The truck runs fairly well, and there is no smoke unless you really try. Even so its a light haze when passing.

 

Ive played with the Timing and TM settings, and can say both have caused stalling issues at varying temperatures. However the stalling is alleviated significantly when you put the truck into Reverse for 30 seconds, then drop it into gear. 

 

I have over 2,000 miles now under my belt with these injectors, and have determined that depending on what settings you have on the smarrty it also effects when the truck won't start due to cold temperatures. On the current settings the truck will not start at about 22F without grid heaters. It will crank over and miss like its got air in the fuel. However 30 seconds with the grids and it fires right up.

What's going on with your TV lever in that first picture?

9 hours ago, Dynamic said:

What's going on with your TV lever in that first picture?

 

Both the TV lever and the Gear linkage came loose, it was very odd.

 

SO a PSA Drain your tanks. I installed this drier into the air compressor system and it was the best thing I ever did.

 

 

 

And now my newest addition to the truck

 

group 31 batteries. And holy smokes do they make a huge difference.

 

I'll have a write up coming for this.

 

 

This truck turns over like a raped ape. Each battery has almost 1200 cranking amps, and 950CCA, rather-wise my old group 27's were 850 and 650CCA respectively.

 

 

TV arm in bolted?

On 3/13/2020 at 12:13 PM, Evan said:

TV arm in bolted?

 

It worked its way loose, and I'm clueless how that happened. I ended up cleaning the brackets up, put them back on and torqued the **** out of the lock down bolts, and i'll have to keep an eye on it.

 

A side note, I readjusted my TV cable and my boost seems to be running lower. Not sure why. But I'll be draining the Power steering system and refilling it today or tomorrow.

I bet your rear mains leaking. 

Is it shifting higher rpm now that the tv is reset?

All @pepsi71ocean has to do is change his tune on the Smarty and it will change the shift parameters because the TQ man setting gets fuel down lower causing the throttle to be lighter than other other tunes and now it shifts different because TV cable is pulled less. 

I don't think he wants to change tune 

9 hours ago, Evan said:

I bet your rear mains leaking. 

Is it shifting higher rpm now that the tv is reset?

 

Irony it is, but the trucks shifting way lower. 1-2 Shift is about 1,900, 2-3 is about 1,750, 3-4 is about 1,750.

 

And not to mention that this is light throttle. Boost pressure is also lower, and so are egt's. Even driving down the highway. I can't explain it.

 

8 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

All @pepsi71ocean has to do is change his tune on the Smarty and it will change the shift parameters because the TQ man setting gets fuel down lower causing the throttle to be lighter than other other tunes and now it shifts different because TV cable is pulled less. 

 

The Smarty is on SW5, can't go any lower then that, however, it seems that  readjusting the TV Cable seems to have resolved other issues as well, such as the trucks constant wish to run around in 3rd or 4th gear.

 

If I was on say6 SW9 then ripping to SW5 or SW7 would indued he;pm

 

Edited March 16, 20205 yr by pepsi71ocean

Set the TV cable so the WOT 1-2 shift occurs at 2900 rpm, and then leave it alone.

@Dynamic

 

What is is that Smarty software with TQ Man feature allows for much more fuel at low speeds. This means either light throttle or heavy throttle usage. This now changes the TV cable position without adjusting. Pepsi can go up on power and have it shifting early because more power less throttle. Now go down in power and need more throttle now it shift later. 

 

Basically what is happening is the Smarty is at 100% throttle by your actually at 30 to 35% throttle actually.  

The more power we make from the fuel burned under the hood the more pressure we need from our hydraulic fluid in the transmission to hold that power. 

Does not matter what name is on the programmer .

 

Us auto guys have more tuning to do but end up with good drivable combos that are a step above the stick sticking out of the hump in the floor.  Ooooops did I say that 

Edited March 16, 20205 yr by Evan

This is one area where the Quadzilla Adrenaline shines. You get more useable pedal travel and, to some extent, this problem almost doesn't matter.

Almost! Depends on where the user tunes the power to come in.

 

Back in the day the smarty ws popular for its plug and play power off idle. Offcourse this is where the transmission is making its least amount of pressure. So it needs to be adjusted accordingly to compensate or fuel turned down. 

 

The smarty just isn't a programmable programmer like the quad that can be refined through pedal range and power band .

 

I'm still uncertain what change sw# has compared to tm# seems it may change alittle with sw#

 

Edited March 16, 20205 yr by Evan

On 3/16/2020 at 11:21 AM, Evan said:

Us auto guys have more tuning to do but end up with good drivable combos that are a step above the stick sticking out of the hump in the floor.  Ooooops did I say that 

Hey, we're a dying breed 

4 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

Hey, we're a dying breed 

Just think if you didn't have that stick you could have one of those nice fold out cup holders. 

Lol.

I’ve about got my DD tune dialed in.  Truck runs great! At 325 bar she hasn’t smoked yet! Really happy with it! Next I’ll be working on my tow tune. 

On 3/16/2020 at 9:29 AM, Dynamic said:

Set the TV cable so the WOT 1-2 shift occurs at 2900 rpm, and then leave it alone.

 

I'll check this. I wonder if it will solve my 2nd gear issue.

 

On 3/16/2020 at 9:34 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

@Dynamic

 

What is is that Smarty software with TQ Man feature allows for much more fuel at low speeds. This means either light throttle or heavy throttle usage. This now changes the TV cable position without adjusting. Pepsi can go up on power and have it shifting early because more power less throttle. Now go down in power and need more throttle now it shift later. 

 

Basically what is happening is the Smarty is at 100% throttle by your actually at 30 to 35% throttle actually.  

 

Only the TM changes the fueling curve pre-spool up. Shifting sooner or later based on the TV cable, and the smarty I have noticed that the TV cable still over rides the Smarty.

 

A good example of this is where the smarty could cause stack shifting, but so can just a little too much TV cable.

 

Since adjusting my TV cable to WOT/Tight, the truck runs lower gears now, and doesn't favor running around in a higher gear. Which for years was a chronic issue I dealt with.

The transmission doesn't know about, care about (unless it's slipping), or have the ability to sense how much power is coming from the engine...or Smarty settings, "TM" settings, timing adjustments, fueling curves, injector sizes, injector pop pressures...none of that. The transmission "knows" only one thing when it comes to determining when it's going to shift; TV lever position.

 

The Smarty basically "creates" its power by advancing the OEM fuel curve so that you're getting the fuel that the OEM programming gave you at 100% throttle at much lower levels of throttle movement. How much it advances that curve will depend upon which "level" you have selected on your Smarty. Some programs also advance the injection timing, which will further exaggerate the issue. I had a Smarty on my 2000 Dodge and, quite honestly, it was one of the many things I hated about that truck. It gave the illusion of more power, but would smoke like the end of the world was coming if you weren't careful, and created a bunch of transmission tuning challenges. But, I used that truck to develop my valve body calibrations and pressure control strategies, so I guess it served its purpose.

 

So what happens with the Smarty is that when the fuel curve is advanced like that, you will be making a considerable amount more power at a given throttle position than it used to with the OEM fueling. You may be making 100% of the power of the OEM curve, but at maybe 50% throttle movement (even less with some of the higher power levels). So the engine is producing 100% power, but the throttle (and the TV cable/lever) is only at 50% movement, so it feels like the transmission should be operating at max performance; running the shifts to near redline, and then popping into the next gear with a good, solid shift. The problem is that, at only 50% TV lever movement, it's not going to do that. So guys start messing with the TV cable, pulling them tighter trying to get their mid-throttle shifts where they feel they should be. But the TV system is designed to work properly within a pretty narrow window of adjustment. If you get it out of that window, trying to accomplish Lord knows what, pretty much everything suffers. When I'm always harping about the WOT 1-2 shift points, I'm using a quick, down-and-dirty method to get the TV system within that window of operation.

Bingo. Exactly what I thought... Thanks @Dynamic...