Well I ran out of beer cans to keep up with this rust bucket so I believe it's time to address it before the whole thing rots away. Got some slip on rockers and cab corners on the way from eBay $210 shipped for both sides. I wanted to get all 3 back, inner, outer but for that kinda money I can almost buy a rust free cab and maybe I still will one day, buy a whole truck to rob parts off like @That Guy just did. Another option I had was to have a local metal shop bend me some rockers out of ss but when I shoed him what I was doing he said he tried it before for others with bad results and lots of wasted time, so my dreams and hopes went down poop tube when he told me that. I wanted to get it done once and never worry about it again. Anyway once i get my stamped recycled beer can from who knows where made rockers I'll be digging in to this long dreaded project. I called lmc and they said their parts come from overseas too and they were on backorder for slip on rockers so I just went with eBay, probably same garbage. Now I just hope inners have some meat left that I can clean up and salvage, the back side is part of floor pan and has some rot in spots but should do for now. I was also going to cut everything out and use a square tube like some have done, but figured I'll try the outer shell for now, it may last 10 more years this way and then... who knows by then.... 

Anyone that has any good advice or beer support feel free to derail this thread. 

I would definitely put some rust converting primer in there.

https://www.amazon.com/AGS-Solutions-Preventing-Application-Permanently/dp/B08KJKRXXJ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=rust+solutions+spray&qid=1608229617&s=automotive&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExRzA0NkRKRkw1NkUzJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTQyNTE2MzFXVVBYTUJEVlFNSSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzA2MTM3MUY2NzFRSDY0TjBYTyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

Something like this

Or rust mort

I'm just hoping you're not planning on spraying that fluid film in there and think it'll be good to go?

That is a corrosion preventer not converter, do the converter first then prevention.

2 hours ago, dieseldon said:

I'm just hoping you're not planning on spraying that fluid film in there and think it'll be good to go?

Well crap another dream down the pooper

It can't be that easy I suppose. I got some rust-oleum converter I'll use, not sure if I want to put pair over it though, don't want to trap rust under paint. Maybe rust converter and fluid film will do the trick for a while. 

45 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

Well crap another dream down the pooper

It can't be that easy I suppose. I got some rust-oleum converter I'll use, not sure if I want to put pair over it though, don't want to trap rust under paint. Maybe rust converter and fluid film will do the trick for a while. 

Yeah I would at least do that, maybe scrape off whatever you can and spray with converter, let it do it's thing then fluid film.

Spray the converter on as much as possible.

 

You're right tho, that could have been a lot worse, doesn't look too bad.

 

Remember, if you're going to glue repair panel on you want clean bare metal on both sides, like an inch or two, grind down both surfaces down to a bit of a taper so there's not much of an abrupt edge, this will make feathering with filler go smoother. Or put on entire panel on with no filler?, then disregard tapering.

 then a thin layer of glue were the bare metal is, clamp and or screw it in place.

 You got this! Good luck!

4 hours ago, dieseldon said:

Remember, if you're going to glue repair panel on you want clean bare metal on both sides,

I'm welding it, already have a welder and don't feel like spending anymore money on this project. Decided not to do rockers at this time as they are still in good shape, it's the inner inner that is looking bad. So if I'll be doing that at some point I'll do outers then too, for now one beer corner will do, driver side is ok yet. I really thought it be way worse then it is on outers, unfortunately to do this right I'll need all 3 panels and that's something I'm not ready for at this time. Fluid film better do the job till I'm ready.

I hear ya, doesn't take long to get in deep!

Well one down one to go, driver side didn't look bad until I cut in to it, glad I did need to make a back plate on this one.

Looking good !

So time consuming, especially when you don't do this for a living

 Can I ask what you used to cut the old pieces out? Just curious, with the bed still on there isn't much room once you get around the corner of the cab.

 Also, are those the "slip on" cab corners you mentioned earlier in the thread? Looking good so far.

I wonder if his rear brake light is leaking water through too? I would look at resealing the rear cab light and then make sure all the drain holes are functional and clear. 

7 hours ago, Doubletrouble said:

 Can I ask what you used to cut the old pieces out? Just curious, with the bed still on there isn't much room once you get around the corner of the cab.

 Also, are those the "slip on" cab corners you mentioned earlier in the thread? Looking good so far.

Plasma cutter helped, then some salzaw, grinder with cut off wheel, air tool with cutt off wheel, little bit of chisel and few beers. You can get to some of it from under the bed, eventually I'll take the bed off and finish it with final touches, for now will seal it off and paint. Probably going black on bottom now with some bed liner.

 I was thinking of doing the same, bed liner on the rockers just to help protect the from road debris.

 I'd like to remove my bed next year, I have some repairs to do on the gooseneck hitch and possibly the frame where it bolts onto it. Bed floor is gonna need some new sheet metal as well.

10 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

So time consuming, especially when you don't do this for a living

Just think about how much money you're saving plus experience and satisfaction of fixing your own truck!

Estimate of shop: @$75hr.

Replace cab corner, 8hrs x 2 $1200

Paint 6hrs x 2 $900

Materials $125 ?

Set bed back for paint, 2 hrs, $150

Parts markup ??

EPA fees ?

Tax, misc.??

Probably a $2500 plus job!

Now you can take that$2500 and go to the dentist and get a cavity filled, I think that takes about an hour to hour and a half?

12 hours ago, dieseldon said:

Just think about how much money you're saving plus experience and satisfaction of fixing your own truck!

Leave and learn  all though I've been around the corner a few times  seen it done it a few times. But not disagreeing with you on your statement. I did this more to stay sain and yeah I believe if I waited another year or two there would be much more damage and I'd have to cut out even more. Not going to worry about fenders or bed, I'll get some rust free at some point. Main thing was the cab for me. I'll be spraying fluid film in the fall now, hopefully it'll keep this thing going for a while longer, wish I new about it 10 years ago. 

Both sides primed just need some pait/bed liner. Cab corners weren't exact match so there's a bit of discrepancy, it'll be fine if it's all black , like the song paint it black.

That looks pretty dang good!

Here's a tip for getting professional paint results on the cheap, take something like your gas cap to a body and paint supply store and ask them to match it, then have them put in an aerosol spray can, (base coat) then finish off with spraymax 2k clear, also spray cans.

Maybe lightly wet sand with 1500 grit and polish. I've done a few that way and got excellent results.

Here's a few pics of daughter in laws I did in driveway last summer.

 

19 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I wonder if his rear brake light is leaking water through too? I would look at resealing the rear cab light and then make sure all the drain holes are functional and clear. 

What I was wondering, or maybe the entire rear window somehow. 

Rear center light has a bad reputation for leaking rare for the window glass to leak unless its a slider. I've got a solid rear window.

3 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Rear center light has a bad reputation for leaking rare for the window glass to leak unless its a slider. I've got a solid rear window.

Mine is a slider  I think it's more to do with po and not washing the truck. When I got it it had few inches deep of lime/roks that were packed inside the frame, he lived on gravel. And when I popped plugs out on rockers and looked inside there was already rust forming, that's when I decided to spray oil in there, I believe it helped although that one video in the link above proves that it's actually can make it worse. I'm thinking about trying to wash all that oil out with a hose and some degreaser maybe then spray some rust converter then fluid film, I ordered a case of that was much cheaper to get a case vs few cans  you bet everything will be covered in it now 

I will check the rear light thought. 

Ok I've seen enough of this truck for this week. Just needs a little more bed liner paint and I'm calling it good. This bed liner spray on first coat runs way too easy, started to look better on second coat, see on the box, and of course I ran out.

Goodbye supporo cans, at least on the cab...

black looks pretty good, matches my bumbers.

 

 

 

2 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

Ok I've seen enough of this truck for this week. Just needs a little more bed liner paint and I'm calling it good. This bed liner spray on first coat runs way too easy, started to look better on second coat, see on the box, and of course I ran out.

Goodbye supporo cans, at least on the cab...

black looks pretty good, matches my bumbers.

 

 

 

What kind did you use?