Just when I thought my truck was pretty sorted

 

Indicate to make a left turn and the wipers come on and stay on until the turn signal is off, all ok when indicating right, hopefully just a problem in the turn switch or wiring around the column, indicator doesn't come on when using either wash/wipe or wipe 

Common though is to replace the multi-function switch first. Being the wipers are typically a different circuit but the contact might of failed and touching off the wipers for the left turn side. 

 

Another common issues is usually function quit completely is constant use of the tilt function of the column typically breaks the wires to the multi function switch or the ignition switch.

 

Wipers

 

Turn signals.

Thanks for posting those, I'll hopefully be looking into it tomorrow if the temps get a little higher and it stops snowing

Mine went out a few weeks ago. When I hit the brights the wiper would move a couple inches. The wipers would barely move and I had to take one off just get the driver side to work. At first I thought it was the wiper motor but I was getting wacky readings on the motor harness so just got both the motor and multi switch. The switch fixed it.

I just ordered a multifunction switch from Rock based on Mikes advice, not bothered if it isn't the switch as the more parts I have the easier life is, there is a good one on my 3500 but I just can't bring myself to remove parts off of it  as in the back of my mind I'll always be putting it back on the road

Wil,

Just make sure you have some of the "tamper proof" torx bits.  (they are the torx with the pin hole in the middle)  you will need them to take out the multifunction switch.

 

HTH

Hag

 

Other way is to smack the pin in the Torx screw and break it off with a small hammer and punch. Super easy. 

We use so many tamper proof screws at work that I always have some. Torx and now l see more allen heads that are tamper proof. 

Had this issue two years ago, replaced the multi function switch and still had the problem. Turned out to be the ground under the drivers side battery tray. This is a very important ground and is in a very bad location, lots of corrosion and rust. Clean it up and make sure everything is grounded properly and a lot of problems go away.

 

Mark 

3 hours ago, Scarecrow said:

Had this issue two years ago, replaced the multi function switch and still had the problem. Turned out to be the ground under the drivers side battery tray. This is a very important ground and is in a very bad location, lots of corrosion and rust. Clean it up and make sure everything is grounded properly and a lot of problems go away.

 

Mark 

Thanks ....... I'll be checking this tomorrow as switch won't be here until Friday at the earliest

If you look at Mike's diagrams you'll see that they both ground to G100 on the left fender. A good ground will solve a lot of electrical issues.

 

Mark

40 minutes ago, Scarecrow said:

If you look at Mike's diagrams you'll see that they both ground to G100 on the left fender. A good ground will solve a lot of electrical issues.

 

Mark

I did spot that but only after your post

I just checked the 3 grounds around the drivers battery, 2 underneath to the front on the fender wheel well and one one the top front of the fender, all ohmed out ok  but cleaned and copper greased and then terminal protector once tightened back up, no difference to the turn signal/wiper problem but  at least they are clean and good now... still waiting on the switch

Now your back to replacing the multifunction switch...

Switch arrived this morning, fitted it still the same.... wiring diagram here I come

Wiper ground is on the front of the cowell (above the firewall) to the left of drivers hood hinge, When you lift the hood you can see it right away about 6/8 inches away from the hood bracket hinge. Also got lithium spray and sprayed each wiper linkage pivot point when wipers were running. I used a pair of pliers with the soft handle to hold up the plastic cover while getting the spray tip and flashlight in there. About 5/6 miles down the road and oh man, suddenly wipers took off like truck is new.

 

I hope you find the problem soon.

 

I think everyone in England calls the 'hood' a Bonnet over there , right?

2 hours ago, JAG1 said:

Wiper ground is on the front of the cowell (above the firewall) to the left of drivers hood hinge, When you lift the hood you can see it right away about 6/8 inches away from the hood bracket hinge. Also got lithium spray and sprayed each wiper linkage pivot point when wipers were running. I used a pair of pliers with the soft handle to hold up the plastic cover while getting the spray tip and flashlight in there. About 5/6 miles down the road and oh man, suddenly wipers took off like truck is new.

 

I hope you find the problem soon.

 

I think everyone in England calls the 'hood' a Bonnet over there , right?

All sorted..........  I decided to check for bare shorted wiring around the column, all ok there, took a look at the wiring diagram again and checked for stuff earthed/grounded at G100 left fender and as well as wipers and indicators  (turn signals) the washer pump is also on that  ground, unplugged it and everything is back to normal, plugged washer pump back in and wipers come on with left turn signal.

I took the battery and box out again and while the G100 ground ohmed out ok the other day and looked passable I decided to just replace it, chopped the terminal off and while inspecting it there was one thin black wire (not all wires in this bunch are solid black) with just one thread of copper wire holding it to the terminal, this wire was really in the middle of the bunch and not too visible, after stripping insulation off to re-terminal, this wire ohmed to the washer pump ground.

This is not a good area to re- terminal at all so had to use 3 ground terminals as there is just no room to get my big crimps in, so crimped then soldered then heat shrinked, bolted back up and covered in copper grease.

 

Beyond me how a washer pump with a bad earth puts the wipers on BUT only when left turn signal is operated and NOT when the washer pump is operated 

 

As for hoods and bonnets yes it's a bonnet here but a lot of American car/truck owners here either are members of forums in the USA or order parts from the USA or have friends in the USA..... got to get with the terminology or at best  you ain't getting parts/info and at worst sounding like you just dropped in from outer space   suppose it also goes the other way as to you guys a bonnet is something a good lady would wear to the county fair

On 2/10/2021 at 10:49 PM, Scarecrow said:

If you look at Mike's diagrams you'll see that they both ground to G100 on the left fender. A good ground will solve a lot of electrical issues.

 

Mark

You were right 

3 hours ago, wil440 said:

with just one thread of copper wire holding it to the terminal, this wire was really in the middle of the bunch and not too visible

 

@wil440, this is a very good example of why resistance checks using an ohmmeter and visual  checks are not reliable for diagnosing electrical problems  The ohmmeter just tells you there is a connection, but does not tell you anything about the quality of the connection - same with the visual check.  I am glad you stayed with it and went back to the problem ground wire connection.

 

- John

1 hour ago, Tractorman said:

 

@wil440, this is a very good example of why resistance checks using an ohmmeter and visual  checks are not reliable for diagnosing electrical problems  The ohmmeter just tells you there is a connection, but does not tell you anything about the quality of the connection - same with the visual check.  I am glad you stayed with it and went back to the problem ground wire connection.

 

- John

Good point and I'm glad the rest of the wiring is found to be in good shape. On my old 7 pin RV connector the main ground in the center pin had never been stripped. They just tightened it to what they thought would puncture the wire insulation with the clamp screw. In taking it apart there was only one small strand of a braid touching the clamp screw. It's been this way for 17 years never getting a charge to the rv batteries always having to run my generator for charging.

 

 

5 hours ago, wil440 said:

This is not a good area to re- terminal at all so had to use 3 ground terminals as there is just no room to get my big crimps in, so crimped then soldered then heat shrinked, bolted back up and covered in copper grease.

 

You mean you did not encase them in concrete? What's happened to the UK? Brexit??

Glad to hear you got it fixed, having had the same symptoms myself I was pretty confident you would end up at the G100 ground. It's hard to get to and like you mine was almost hidden by the other wires. When I replace the fender this spring I plan on inspecting, replacing, and upgrading that mess!

 

Mark