Hello all! So, I'm having suspension issues with the truck and really need them figured out. truck shakes at highway cruising speeds. It will smooth out if I move the wheel slightly (with the slack) and it'll get smoother and not be shaking. It's not death wobble like you see on YouTube but it is definitely annoying and NOT correct lol. I think tires may just need to be balanced and a good alignment. Front driver tire is also a weird wear (mud tires, each tread is up and down alternating, planning to get new wheels soon). Only thing I know that has been done to the truck suspension wise is a leveling kit.

 

To the next problem, when turning at slow speeds (parking lot speeds) the truck vibrates badly, more so when turning right. Also, when coming to a stop from like 5mph zone down to 0 it'll grind and rattle, even without brake engaged and the shake will be felt in all 3 pedals. I'm thinking wheel bearings? Rotors and all that I believe were replaced by P/O but not sure how good of a job they did due to other work on the truck....

 

Last thing is presumable powertrain related but I hear a noise right in the bellhousing... Doesn't sound like a deep knock like a beginning rod knock but it sounded the same as a video I found online and the guy said it was his flexplate being loose/cracked. They sounded almost identical but I have a flywheel due to it being a manual. Truck has a South Bend dual disc setup and the noise stays even with clutch pedal pressed. I'm not sure if the P/O replaced the flywheel or if it has 300k on it like the truck has or he did replace it and maybe didn't torque the bolts correctly.

 

Any and all suggestions is welcome! Whether it is for all 3 problems or just the one! 

 

Edit: Truck supposedly had all 4 ball joints replaced, calipers and rotors, front shocks at 300k, at 319k now.

 

Thank you

Dylan.

Edited February 21, 20214 yr by YeaImDylan

I wish I had some advice, but it sounds like you've already got quite a list of things to check. Best of luck, let us know what you find!

18 minutes ago, LorenS said:

I wish I had some advice, but it sounds like you've already got quite a list of things to check. Best of luck, let us know what you find!

I will for sure! Hopefully this thread gets some traction. I just don't wanna go start replacing things that don't necessarily need to replaced right now since I am not made of money hahaha

Is the truck a 4x4 or not; this will help to know this.

First, jack up the front of the truck and check for play in the wheel bearings and the ball joints.  Lose ball joints or wheel bearings can cause choppy tire wear along with the shacking and noises you are hearing in the front.    While you're there check the rest of the suspension: A-arm bushings, tie rods, ect.   The leveling kit can cause problems and premature failure of front suspension components.

 

This video will help with what to look for.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H805kD6MF58

 

.As for the noise in the bellhousing, the transmission is going to have to come out and inspection done on the flywheel/clutch assembly.  I've seen two cars over the years with a noise like that; one was a cracked flex plate and the other was a bolt that backed out of the flywheel and was just touching the bellhousing in on spot making the ticking noise.

Edited February 22, 20214 yr by IBMobile

The first sounds like a similar issue I had with my truck when I got it, jack up the from and spin the tire. I had 1 that was kind of egg shaped on one side due to a broken belt. New tires and issue was solved. if it’s not tires and you don’t want/know how to check the front suspension parts. Find a shop that does alignment checks for free and have them check stuff, if they can’t do it I’m sure they’ll print a list of what’s wrong and ask them to quote the parts this way you have a copy of what to order. 
 

For the slowing down issues it’s time to take the tires off and check all the work that’s been done. 
 

for the noise you might again have to verify work done by dropping trans, but pull front driveshaft if 4x4 and see if it changes. Could be a bad double cardigan or transfer case. 
 

 

A limited slip rear diff will make some noise while turning if the friction was not added on a fluid change, unless the oil came with it in it. Especially low speed tight turns.  Big tire are harsh on the oe front ends. Get somebody to turn your wheel back forth while you get under and start looking at the tie rod ends and such. No movement is what your a looking for. O1's and 2's are harsh on ball joints in OE trim, larger tires even more so. We have had more than one person here go thru ball joints in 15 or 20k miles. Also check your u joints and carrier bearing on the rear drive shaft for any play. You have alot of exploring to do.

1 hour ago, Towrigdually said:

The first sounds like a similar issue I had with my truck when I got it, jack up the from and spin the tire. I had 1 that was kind of egg shaped on one side due to a broken belt. New tires and issue was solved. if it’s not tires and you don’t want/know how to check the front suspension parts. Find a shop that does alignment checks for free and have them check stuff, if they can’t do it I’m sure they’ll print a list of what’s wrong and ask them to quote the parts this way you have a copy of what to order. 
 

For the slowing down issues it’s time to take the tires off and check all the work that’s been done. 
 

for the noise you might again have to verify work done by dropping trans, but pull front driveshaft if 4x4 and see if it changes. Could be a bad double cardigan or transfer case. 
 

 

Thank you for the input. I think I'll go to a shop this week and have them check things that may be needing replacement for sure! Some of the noise I believe are just the disks making noise, I found others saying the same thing about dual disc clutches but one specific noise is what I'm worried about.

1 hour ago, dripley said:

A limited slip rear diff will make some noise while turning if the friction was not added on a fluid change, unless the oil came with it in it. Especially low speed tight turns.  Big tire are harsh on the oe front ends. Get somebody to turn your wheel back forth while you get under and start looking at the tie rod ends and such. No movement is what your a looking for. O1's and 2's are harsh on ball joints in OE trim, larger tires even more so. We have had more than one person here go thru ball joints in 15 or 20k miles. Also check your u joints and carrier bearing on the rear drive shaft for any play. You have alot of exploring to do.

Should I try replacing the fluid in the diff with whatever the owner's manual states and see if that makes any differences? And yes will definitely be exploring. I have a feeling a lot of these issues may just be old U-joints at the very on the drive shaft. Seems like they can make a lot of noise and other issue according to others on the internet.

1 hour ago, IBMobile said:

Is the truck a 4x4 or not; this will help to know this.

First, jack up the front of the truck and check for play in the wheel bearings and the ball joints.  Lose ball joints or wheel bearings can cause choppy tire wear along with the shacking and noises you are hearing in the front.    While you're there check the rest of the suspension: A-arm bushings, tie rods, ect.   The leveling kit can cause problems and premature failure of front suspension components.

 

This video will help with what to look for.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H805kD6MF58

 

.As for the noise in the bellhousing, the transmission is going to have to come out and inspection done on the flywheel/clutch assembly.  I've seen two cars over the years with a noise like that; one was a cracked flex plate and the other was a bolt that backed out of the flywheel and was just touching the bellhousing in on spot making the ticking noise.

The bolt backing out of the flywheel you mentioned is what I believe may have happened. How awful is it to pull and put back the trannys on these trucks? Thank you for the other insights, it is a 4x4 as well. I'll check for play in those components.

 

Thank you all for these replies!

There should a sticker on the glove box door and it will tell what rear end you have in it along with some other info. Mine is pretty faded. You can buy the friction modifier at most any parts store. It its an open diff the modifier want do anything. It is for clutches in the limited slip diff. 

As for the front axle I would look at all the drag link, track bar, ball joint and tie rod ends. Like yesterday I had a neighbor call me up and complain about loose steering. Got down there and adjusted the steering box a bit. (1 full turn in). Still super sloppy like 1/2 turn of the steering wheel.  So I proceeded to roll down the window and rock the steering standing out side and looking through the fender. The track bar was good but the drag link was just belling back and forth looking closer the nut for the drag link was hanging by 3 threads. Grabbed a 7/8 wrench and tighten till I couldn't no more. (Non-castle nut series). Then check the steering again much better I took some turn off the steering box and tighten everything up again. Had the own test again more a for normal steering and slack. I could of added back in some adjustment for the sector adjustment but he was much happier. 

 

Job time took less than 10 minutes laying in the ice and snow a with about 10-12 MPH wind blowing on me. 

 

What I'm getting at is get a friend to rock the wheel and look for looks stuff starting at the steering shaft coming out of the truck to the steering box and follow to the right hand tire then back to the left hand tire. Check each joint separately. 99.9% of the time its worn suspension parts or loose parts. 

 

Even on my truck last weekend change a track bar after noticing the steering in my truck was getting kinda wider sawing back and forth. Same deal stood at the driver door reached in looking through the fender and seen the end of the track bar moving up and down on the ball stud. Replacement time. Now might is tight like brand new like the day I drove off the showroom floor with my truck. (Odometer 43 miles in Oct, 26 2002) Actually more improved being I've got a quick ratio Blue top Steering box. 

 

Side note... It was Sunday... I quite literally started at home dropped @Wet Vetteoff at Davis Family place she wanted to do woman things. (Baking). Went next door to Mark's place and he needed my coolant pressure tested. Ran back home grab the tester, Then came back test his truck and found at least 2 coolant leaks easy fix. Left there continue to walk across yards to George place and did the steering box. Then finally got back to Davis family place and Sean got home and high jacked me to help with snow removal project in McCall. Long day but managed ot fix two vehicles with a rack of wrenches and a lot of tolerance for cold blowing wind and laying in the ice. Sucks but gotta be done.

Edited February 22, 20214 yr by Mopar1973Man

After you figure out lose joints, these may help 

https://www.centramatic.com/wheel-balancer.rhtml?modelNumber=300-318

I've been happy with them so far, much better than using beads inside the tires. Not %100 shake free but it's life time balance, not just tire the whole rotating assembly. May not work as good with larger tires.

 

I had to whip out the angle grinder to fit Centramatics. One caliper must have been cast a few minutes before the whistle on a hot Friday afternoon and the call of an ice cold beer was just too strong. That was last resort after flipping inside, outside, front and back.

So @LorenSdo you like yours? We know @Dieselfuturelikes his.

 

Loren our xmas presents are about to arrive!!!

1 hour ago, LorenS said:

I had to whip out the angle grinder to fit Centramatics. One caliper must have been cast a few minutes before the whistle on a hot Friday afternoon and the call of an ice cold beer was just too strong. That was last resort after flipping inside, outside, front and back.

I put no off set ones on front with tube facing the rim, the are right against the rim but not being pushed by the rim to be deformed. And the other set that had an off set on the rear, plenty of space there. I do have 3rd gen breaks too.

I still have 2nd gen brakes, but third gen wheels. Steel for winter, but the tube would hit my aluminum wheels if tube was to the wheel. I don't remember if offsets in front of rear, and did have to put on the shims. Wheel still supported by hub, not studs.

1 hour ago, dripley said:

do you like yours?

I do. The best compliment I can give them is that I forget they are there!

 

1 hour ago, dripley said:

our xmas presents are about to arrive!!!

I share the enthusiasm, wholeheartedly! My HY-35 deserves retirement.

On 2/22/2021 at 8:36 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

As for the front axle I would look at all the drag link, track bar, ball joint and tie rod ends. Like yesterday I had a neighbor call me up and complain about loose steering. Got down there and adjusted the steering box a bit. (1 full turn in). Still super sloppy like 1/2 turn of the steering wheel.  So I proceeded to roll down the window and rock the steering standing out side and looking through the fender. The track bar was good but the drag link was just belling back and forth looking closer the nut for the drag link was hanging by 3 threads. Grabbed a 7/8 wrench and tighten till I couldn't no more. (Non-castle nut series). Then check the steering again much better I took some turn off the steering box and tighten everything up again. Had the own test again more a for normal steering and slack. I could of added back in some adjustment for the sector adjustment but he was much happier. 

 

Job time took less than 10 minutes laying in the ice and snow a with about 10-12 MPH wind blowing on me. 

 

What I'm getting at is get a friend to rock the wheel and look for looks stuff starting at the steering shaft coming out of the truck to the steering box and follow to the right hand tire then back to the left hand tire. Check each joint separately. 99.9% of the time its worn suspension parts or loose parts. 

 

Even on my truck last weekend change a track bar after noticing the steering in my truck was getting kinda wider sawing back and forth. Same deal stood at the driver door reached in looking through the fender and seen the end of the track bar moving up and down on the ball stud. Replacement time. Now might is tight like brand new like the day I drove off the showroom floor with my truck. (Odometer 43 miles in Oct, 26 2002) Actually more improved being I've got a quick ratio Blue top Steering box. 

 

Side note... It was Sunday... I quite literally started at home dropped @Wet Vetteoff at Davis Family place she wanted to do woman things. (Baking). Went next door to Mark's place and he needed my coolant pressure tested. Ran back home grab the tester, Then came back test his truck and found at least 2 coolant leaks easy fix. Left there continue to walk across yards to George place and did the steering box. Then finally got back to Davis family place and Sean got home and high jacked me to help with snow removal project in McCall. Long day but managed ot fix two vehicles with a rack of wrenches and a lot of tolerance for cold blowing wind and laying in the ice. Sucks but gotta be done.

Thank you for all this info!! I'm planning to get both driveshafts balanced, replace u joints, and then replace the carrier bearing in the rear. Do you have any experience with the carrier bearing causing issues and what symptoms you had? Or anyone following this thread for that matter?

 

Also, 

On 2/22/2021 at 12:21 PM, Dieselfuture said:

After you figure out lose joints, these may help 

https://www.centramatic.com/wheel-balancer.rhtml?modelNumber=300-318

I've been happy with them so far, much better than using beads inside the tires. Not %100 shake free but it's life time balance, not just tire the whole rotating assembly. May not work as good with larger tires.

 

I'll look more into these, I'm just kind of confused at what exactly they do? I'll be running 35s again once I buy new tires, would those be too big?

43 minutes ago, YeaImDylan said:

I'm just kind of confused at what exactly they do? I'll be running 35s again once I buy new tires, would those be too big?

They help balance your wheels and tires, may help with shaking. Don't expect too much with 35 but they do work. 

I don't think it's your carrier bearing as your shaking gets better when steering a bit left or right. 

5 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

They help balance your wheels and tires, may help with shaking. Don't expect too much with 35 but they do work. 

I don't think it's your carrier bearing as your shaking gets better when steering a bit left or right. 

Could the carrier bearing cause my issues of bad vibration from around 15 down to 10 mph when decelerating with or without the break applied? I read somewhere else that a guy rigged up a mirror and was having the same issue and his drive shaft was shaking crazily.

You made it sound like the shake goes away if you slightly steer one way, made me think not a carrier bearing. But yes it certainly could cause a shake.

On 2/24/2021 at 10:35 PM, Dieselfuture said:

You made it sound like the shake goes away if you slightly steer one way, made me think not a carrier bearing. But yes it certainly could cause a shake.

Yes you're correct with the shake going away with turning of the wheel but that is at the 50-65mph zone. My bad for not being clear when speaking about the possibility of the carrier bearing being bad or the driveshaft being out of balance. My issue with the rumbling in the 10-15mph zone was more directed to the possibility of it being a driveshaft and u joint issue.

To anyone following this still, I was underneath the truck for other reasons and noticed I no longer have any weights on my rims  along with the front left tire being pretty messed up. I'm ordering new rims and tires very soon and am hoping a few of my issues will resolve. Was also going to change the carrier bearing on the driveshaft but my driveshaft does not have one, previous owner said the short beds didn't come with them. Once I get the new wheels put on I'll go in for an alignment right away and see if its align able and if not then I will get a list of parts to look at getting done asap.

If the only thing wrong with the wheels is the missing weights there is probably nothing wrong the wheels. Did you on the inside of the back of the rim to see if they have the stick on stye of weights? All of mine are balanced that way with no weights on the edge of the rim.