Replaced my injectors with DAP 7 X 0.009 VCO's. Old OEM injectors were down to 3300 PSI pop at best with 242k miles on them!!

Couldn't get the truck to start after that, had a big puddle of fuel under from bleeding!

Installed a DAP VP 44 with NEW electronics and 5 key bumps and 3 long cranks later it started and ran the remaining air out of the system like it should have!!

 

Original VP couldn't pop 305 Bar on the new sticks. It was really tired after 242k miles (assuming it was the original) I am not the 1st nor the 3rd owner of this truck I am sure.

 

Plan is to now do an APPS reset and the W-T mod this weekend if time allows.

 

Still has stock remainder of motor and it needs a overhaul but that has to wait for funding!

 

I know gauges need to be done ASAP

 

Is there anything else I should think about??? 

I would say gauges, as that VP will need steady fuel. Check your turbo for play(fore/aft) in the drive wheel. Coolant likely needs a swap while you are at it, and summer is here. In my experience, drive it, she will tell you what she needs in one way or another. But gauges help you beat her to the punch. 

I did check the turbo shaft for front to back play when I installed my BHAF about 3 weeks ago-- good and tight with no play axial or radial that I could tell!

 

Coolant change will prob be happening by Aug time frame I should have the $$$$ for the overhaul of the lower end and head.

 

I will get a cheap FP gauge as a minimum soon and go with good A pillar set up with the overhaul.

 

Thanks for the reply and suggestions Red Rambler!

What makes you think the engine needs an overhaul?

Have major blow by from the crank vent tube and the oil cap danced like a hula girl on a wash board dirt road. Has to be my daily driver for right now, cant afford to pull it down until around Aug time frame($5200 quote for overhaul) more if it needs sleeves!

 

Thx dripley!

Not good. Yup you might need an overhaul if the blow by is that bad. That would contribute to the hard starting as well with weak injectors.

Mike, thx for the input! Didn't have a issue with hard starting until i put the new sticks in it lol. I got the truck used and in pretty bad shape back in 12 and am just now getting into it really good as it has become my daily driver. My plan is to buy most of the parts before the overhaul (head studs, rod bolts ect..) so I don't pay the over hauler for his parts and a mark up! I want to do it the right way since it will set my maintenance up from a refreshed point. Shouldn't have near the issues I am having now when it his 500k miles I hope.

 

Here is my ;list of things to do on this beast:

FASS 165 Titanium pump

Overhaul

A Pillar gauges set up, EGT, Boost and Fuel P.

FirePunk Trans- up to 650 HP

Quad tuner

Turbo

4" MBRP exhaust

then I will start interior and body work after all that lol.

Might talk with @Dynamic on the transmission. He's a super good transmission build being I've got one of his in my 1996 Dodge 1500. He does mods that Firepunk will not do like extra cooling jets for the clutch packs. Yup he drills two holes on the return oil line inside the case that spray cooled oil on the clutch keeping them cool. Just can't beat Jon for a transmission build.

 

On the FASS consider you location of the pump and the filters. FASS has serious issues for location and the filter being damaged by road debris or clearance between filter to ground being I've seen a few up here go over a "Goat Hump" and tear the filters off the filter base or flip up a rock or wood and smack the filter causing filter damage. This is one thing I do love about AirDog its small enough to tuck right behind the transfer case and the skid plate guards the filters.

 

If you like the idea of having programmable gauges I would towards the ISSPro EV2 series that you can custom set the warning light for any value you wish. Like I've got EGT's set for 1,200*F and the trans temp set for 220*F, Fuel pressure set for 13 PSI. Less gauge watching, just the red LED pops at on you can spot which gauge without even moving an eye just by position of the light. Mine is Boost (top), Fuel pressure (mid), and EGT's (bottom) of the a-pillar. Trans temp in on the column.

 

Quadzilla is the best choice for a 2nd Gen 24V Cummins. Nothing to say here. 

 

Turbo is going to be based on the size of injectors and other supporting mods. 

 

4" exhaust is more than enough to cover what your doing.

5 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Might talk with @Dynamic on the transmission. He's a super good transmission build being I've got one of his in my 1996 Dodge 1500. He does mods that Firepunk will not do like extra cooling jets for the clutch packs. Yup he drills two holes on the return oil line inside the case that spray cooled oil on the clutch keeping them cool. Just can't beat Jon for a transmission build.

 

On the FASS consider you location of the pump and the filters. FASS has serious issues for location and the filter being damaged by road debris or clearance between filter to ground being I've seen a few up here go over a "Goat Hump" and tear the filters off the filter base or flip up a rock or wood and smack the filter causing filter damage. This is one thing I do love about AirDog its small enough to tuck right behind the transfer case and the skid plate guards the filters.

 

If you like the idea of having programmable gauges I would towards the ISSPro EV2 series that you can custom set the warning light for any value you wish. Like I've got EGT's set for 1,200*F and the trans temp set for 220*F, Fuel pressure set for 13 PSI. Less gauge watching, just the red LED pops at on you can spot which gauge without even moving an eye just by position of the light. Mine is Boost (top), Fuel pressure (mid), and EGT's (bottom) of the a-pillar. Trans temp in on the column.

 

Quadzilla is the best choice for a 2nd Gen 24V Cummins. Nothing to say here. 

 

Turbo is going to be based on the size of injectors and other supporting mods. 

 

4" exhaust is more than enough to cover what your doing.

Mike: all good info and will definitely check Dynamic out for the trans.

 

FASS= 2 Wheel drive so not going off road, I might make a custom support and cover for it as I am an aircraft mechanic by trade (sheet metal)

ISSOPro-- I have looked into them, pricey but def top line items. Adjustable with the Quad or have to get a smarty?

Quad- YUP!!

4" MBRP= good noise and enough to smoke out a tuner haha.

 

Looking to be somewhere in the 400 to 500 HP range if I turn it up, Currently just have DAP 100hp sticks installed they should support alot of this with proper tuning, turbo ect.

 

I have got to figure out how to do my signature on here!!

21 minutes ago, Stubilly said:

ISSOPro-- I have looked into them, pricey but def top line items.

Worth it in the long haul. There is even an optional relay you can program for controlling other functions like trans temp gauge you can program a fan to turn on at say 180*F and warning light at 200*F.

 

22 minutes ago, Stubilly said:

Looking to be somewhere in the 400 to 500 HP range if I turn it up, Currently just have DAP 100hp sticks installed they should support alot of this with proper tuning, turbo ect.

With +150 HP injectors (7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar) and Quadzilla I'm at 500 HP roughly now. Final ratio will make or break this for EGT's. Like most here know I dropped the 31" tires (235's or 265's) for 245's which are 30 " tires on 3.55 gears and final ratio is now 3.69:1 which is cool running ratio and EGT's are low.

 

25 minutes ago, Stubilly said:

Adjustable with the Quad or have to get a smarty?

Smarty regardless even with UDC is not going to net you much more than +60 HP. Then the pure cost of the of the Smarty is going to be much higher than the Quadzilla with less features. (No wire tap, no turbo cooldown, etc.) Quadzilla can be ran headless and more secure because there is not a tuner display hanging in the cab somewhere. 

3 hours ago, Stubilly said:

Have major blow by from the crank vent tube and the oil cap danced like a hula girl on a wash board dirt road. Has to be my daily driver for right now, cant afford to pull it down until around Aug time frame($5200 quote for overhaul) more if it needs sleeves!

 

Thx dripley!

Make sure you don't have vacuum leaks first 

3 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

Make sure you don't have vacuum leaks first 

Vacuum pump pulls a solid 26" and the system holds it after shut down. I was pleasantly surprised on that one.

 

Thx Dieselfuture

Not vacuum leak at least past the check valve double check the line between the pump and check valve.

18 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Not vacuum leak at least past the check valve double check the line between the pump and check valve.

I tested at the 3 way Tee above the brake booster, before the small valve (filter I think). Pulled the cap off an unused port. Basically right from the pump as the line runs straight to this fitting.

On 6/12/2021 at 8:26 AM, Stubilly said:

FASS= 2 Wheel drive so not going off road, I might make a custom support and cover for it as I am an aircraft mechanic by trade (sheet metal)

I'll trade you wrench time for bodywork! -HD Diesel grease monkey for John Deere Yellow machines.

 

 

If u have the funds, might spring for getting a upgraded cam too. Don't forget to get all the little goodies like the upgraded freeze plugs/covers, tappet covers and gasket obviously, fuel plate block off since you'll have a fass, fluidamper, etc. DAP has alot of cool stuff like that.

List is growing for the parts to add during the O/H.

 

O/H guys had head studs on the quote to pay their cost for head studs-- I think I will provide the upgrade parts to save some $$$$.

 

1. Head studs

2. Main studs

3. Rod bolts

4. New pushrods -- Will see what mine look like, cost might say do it anyway!

5. New tappets

6. Valve springs-- Still deciding if I am going to replace them either way.

7. Mahle O/H kit-- Ceramic coated pistons???? Full gasket kit with the kit.

8. Sleeves-- Debating on just replacing them outright- Start fresh with new not bored out.

9. Cam-- To be determined-- 500 HP should be ok on stock cam unless its got alot of wear, then its a new Hamilton

10. The great UNKNOWN of what will be found upon teardown!!

 

2 hours ago, Stubilly said:

List is growing for the parts to add during the O/H.

 

O/H guys had head studs on the quote to pay their cost for head studs-- I think I will provide the upgrade parts to save some $$$$.

 

1. Head studs -Ok

 

2. Main studs -see below*

 

3. Rod bolts -see below*

 

4. New pushrods -- Will see what mine look like, cost might say do it anyway! -recommend Manton

 

5. New tappets -Required for changing the cam and maintaining a warranty

 

6. Valve springs-- Still deciding if I am going to replace them either way. -103s are a good idea regardless in my opinion more so if pushing the boost or rpm.

 

7. Mahle O/H kit-- Ceramic coated pistons???? Full gasket kit with the kit. -ceramic coatings in the motor isn't the best idea.. but I understand their purpose for controling heat

 

8. Sleeves-- Debating on just replacing them outright- Start fresh with new not bored out. -unsleeved block, used when going back to factory sized bore usually?

 

9. Cam-- To be determined-- 500 HP should be ok on stock cam unless its got a lot of wear, then its a new Hamilton. -Don't go much larger than the 178/208, the popular 188/220 is more for spooling big turbos than around town driving. Heard some complaints of drivability going down with it. The other thing is, the factory cam is pretty good at doing a lot of general moderately high horsepower increases (600+ on stock cam) and racing with no issues. The cam helps the motor breath but it also moves the rpm band. The 188/220's range is around 1700-4500 rpm. That's racing/big turbo territory. 178/208 is idle to 4000. Also look at No Limit Mfg, Has other sizes besides the two from Hamilton.

 

10. The great UNKNOWN of what will be found upon teardown!! -the ever so fun part 

 

 

Do you have any mods already? 

 

What are you planning to use the truck for?

 

*Main studs and rod bolts, I thought they could be reused? only really dealt with top end rebuilding so far, so unsure on this.

 

Those are my thoughts and ramblings. Truck use and mods will also dictate to an extent what you need to put into the motor. 

 

 

On 6/17/2021 at 1:55 PM, Silverwolf2691 said:

 

Do you have any mods already? 

 

What are you planning to use the truck for?

 

*Main studs and rod bolts, I thought they could be reused? only really dealt with top end rebuilding so far, so unsure on this.

 

Those are my thoughts and ramblings. Truck use and mods will also dictate to an extent what you need to put into the motor. 

 

 

Silverwolf:

 

Mods so far are just BHAF, W-T grounds mod, 100HP injectors. Nothing major as of yet!

 

This truck is going to be a full rebuild/restore to become a long term daily driver/tow truck (bass boat and possibly a 5th wheel at some point) Tuner eater!!! its paid for so no monthly payments:)

 

I want to bullet proof the bottom end while I have it apart, good time to do it and if I do ever bump the HP up I know it will handle it with no issues.

 

Trans will be built to handle up to 650 HP.

 

Planned mods after engine and trans include, Quad V2, Turbo, 4" exhaust, fat rear tires to keep it hooked up on the road. Might look at methanol injection but not real sure on that one yet.

 

Thanks for asking and comments!