So I decided to buy my mothers camper from her instead of hauling it to NY where it would most likely sit and get destroyed by rodents.  It's a 25' 2020 Coleman, been camped in once and my mother lived in it for about 6 months before she flew to NY.  I have a little 1200/1000 watt generator I was using with my pop up that I know is not up to the task.  I'm still trying to find the paperwork for this thing to get official numbers but I think they may have gotten packed in my mothers things.  It has A/C, Fridge, microwave and the other typical accoutrements.  I would like to get a generator capable of running the A/C, from what I gather I should be looking at 3500 watt minimum.  What's a good number to shoot for, I don't mind having a little more power than I need.  

 

On a side note if anyone is interested I'll have a nice pop up camper and generator for sale soon.  

If its got A/C and you want to run every thing... Typically most smaller RVs are 30A service at 120VAC.

 

120 VAC x 30A = 3,600 Watts (4kw with room for start up of the A/C)

 

So I would look for 4kw generator this would cover everything including A/C. 

 

Like myself I've got a cheap 2kw generator it will power everything but A/C, water heater or the microwave. As for doing solar I went even smaller and used a 1,200 watt inverter and 45w worth of solar panels and now presto... No noise of a running generator. Again not enough to do much but TV , cell phones, etc. 

A bunch of YOU TUBE videos about RV generators

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=rv+generators+for+travel+trailers

 

I have a cheap ($200 at Big Lots) 2300 watt generator in the front of my 5er.  I just don't turn the AC on when using the microwave.  

 

Here's a list, from Lilac Resort, of power usage for equipment in RVs.

• RV Converter (charging)1-8 Amps
• Lights (per bulb)0.5 -1.5 Amps
• Water Heater (6-gallon, heating)8-13 Amps
• RV Air Conditioner (Start-up)16-18 Amps
• RV Air Conditioner (Running)13-16 Amps
• Window Air Conditioner5-10 Amps
• RV Roof Fan3-5 Amps
• Ceiling Fan (low to high setting)0.2-6 Amps
• Oscillating Fan0.5-1 Amps
• Furnace Fan7-9 Amps
• Space Heater (1600 watts)7-13 Amps
• Space Heater (800 watts)4-10 Amps
• Refrigerator5-8 Amps
• Portable Ice Maker19.2 Amps
• Blender5-6 Amps
• Microwave Oven (Standard)7-13 Amps
• Microwave Oven (Convection)7-15 Amps
• Portable Pizza Oven12.2 Amps
• Toaster8-10 Amps
• Coffee Maker5-8 Amps
• Electric Kettle6-12 Amps
• Frying Pan (Cooking - High)7-12 Amps
• Crock-Pot (Cooking - High)3-5 Amps
• Crock-Pot (Warming)1-2 Amps
• Food Processor5-8 Amps
• Hair Dryer (High)7-13 Amps
• Curling Iron0.5-0.7 Amps
• Iron (High)8-10 Amps
• Washer/Dryer140-16 Amps
• Vacuum (Hand-Held)2-6 Amps
• DVD, Disc Player, Radio0.5-2 Amps
• Television HD, Digital1.5-4 Amps
• Satellite Receiver/Game Console0.5-0.8 Amps
• Computer (Laptop)2-3 Amps
• Chargers (small electronics)0.5 to 1.5 Amps
• Drill2-6 Amps
• Golf Cart Charger13-21 Amps

@Sycostang67It is always best to obtain a power source that would provide twice the amount of current that you'll need. Rule of thumb, avoid running a generator at maximum level once you've selected all the power devices you will operate in a must do scenario. This also allows you to select what is NOT necessary in situations where the priority is AC on a hot summer night.

 

Dan's list (@IBMobile)  is very comprehensive and common sense tells me that operating a washer/dryer at 10pm on a 90* night in a RV park is not a sound decision.

 

You should definitely consider the "Inverter" style generators, unfortunately the  choice of manufacturers is limited in this category however; from a "noise" standpoint attempting to operate an analog generator in many public parks after 8pm will bring attention from fellow RV neighbors and perhaps park authorities. 

 

Yeah, the Honda EU series inverters are the most civilized considering noise but, they are also the most expensive...the old adage applies, "You get what you pay for".

 

The newest Honda EU platforms are fuel injected so elevation above Sea Level is not an issue and Honda has now included an APP where you control Start/Stop and estimated fuel Run Time data. This becomes fully controllable via your smart phone.

 

I realize storage space is a key aspect in a RV environment however; purchase the largest generator (inverter style) you can stow and operate conveniently.

 

You must also "tame your Air Conditioning" by applying a "Soft Start" controller. This is the most important aspect to operating any modest sized generator regardless of design.

 

MicroAir.com is the most sophisticated device to accomplish this task!  It is NOT cheap and provides cutting edge "Zero Cross Over" current engagement technology. This company started in the RV industry several years ago, specifically to render high current demand RV AC units to "Start and Operate" with modest power supply sources.

 

Examining the data plate on your Air Conditioner will reveal the "LRA" Locked Rotor Amperage. This is the initial "peak current" demand required to start the compressor. The device requires programing to "learn" the demand of your AC compressor. Once the device is installed, you merely "start the AC" five times in sequence and allow the onboard algorithm to "learn" the curve of start-up current demand. It's all very simple to do and the results are quite surprising. The uncivilized manor of an "induction alternating current" motor engaging current demand at the "zero crossover" point in a 60 Hertz wave form is such a beautiful thing to observe.

 

Obtaining your "LRA" specification is the key to selecting the "model number" of the MicroAir controller required in your application.

 

@AH64IDis also familiar with these controllers, as I've found a thread where he was referring to such devices.

 

Please NOTE: The more desirable Honda Inverter platforms can be operated in parallel and come equipped to be connected via "optional cabling" between the two individual units. You needn't worry about "phasing" the two devices, as the two separate "inverter outputs" have a 70 microsecond delay at the "parallel ports" to allow perfect "phase" coupling to occur hence; both units sniff each others butt before they combine a sinusoidal sign wave output.

 

Theoretically, (I'm spending your money for you) if you were to obtain two EU3000's, both units are quite compact, you'd have a potential of 6Kw available. You'd be able to operate on a single unit and when late afternoon or early evening arrives, you would look so cool as you open your smart phone, press one button and bring an additional 3Kw online because, your lovely wife looked out the door and indicated she wants AC to cool the coach as she prepares that lovely evening meal in the kitchen.

 

You would NOT be taxing your generator system because it's operating at only 60% and she can run the blender for the Margaritas when the neighbors come over for cocktails. Oh...let us not forget the 55" flat screen with full sound system because all the campground kids are coming over to watch Harry Potter.

 

AND WHY is this all happening at YOUR camp spot?....because the Honda inverters are so quite, a normal conversation, at normal audio level, is all that's required, as the Honda power plant is ONLY ten feet away. Gosh, what a beautiful, peaceful summer evening with family and friends.

 

Anyway...MicroAir controller and Honda EU platforms allow you to be tactically superior in a "must do" scenario. Besides that...it is just down right bitchen!

 

Golly, I love spending other peoples money.

 

Cheers,

W-T 

 

     

  On 6/19/2021 at 8:28 PM, W-T said:

Golly, I love spending other peoples money.

 

You are pretty darn good at it. And i dont mean that in a bad way what so ever.

  On 6/20/2021 at 2:37 AM, dripley said:

You are pretty darn good at it. And i dont mean that in a bad way what so ever.

I know I had to skip few sapporo's because of WT 

If you going camping and need air conditioning your going the wrong spot. I just had this conversation with friends. Like my last camping trip was OK. No hook ups at all. It got into the high 90's for temperature. We went out on a jet boat and went fishing for most of the day. I'm still OK to camp in that and don't require A/C. Still in all I'm looking to get above 5,000 feet elevation to get away from the heat. Being I'm working at 5,000 feet now for my job which isn't too bad. Then I reverse in the winter time head lower into the canyon to get to something a bit warmer. You sure wouldn't want to go to Death Valley in the middle of the summer to go camping just not a smart thing being it does get over 120*F down there. Might be super enjoyable going there in the early spring when weather is cooler. As summer get on around here we all just keep moving up in elevation to beat the heat. 

 

I've only been in a handful RV parks with full hook ups which is nice but not what I want. I don't want a neighbor so close I can reach out my window on knock on there trailer. Even at home I've got hundreds of feet between me and my neighbor. When I go camping I don't want neighbors. I don't want other people wandering through our camp spot. Most of my camping is dry camping without hook ups and without A/C. Even my last trip was out at Pittsburg Landing on the Snake River. The camping spots are spread out, but yeah everyone fired up generators and listen to all those engine humming away. Myself I closed the blinds and slowed down and go lazy for the day watching TV. The interior temp got to a mere 82*F bit warm but doable. I had a partial shade on the trailer through the day which helped. Rest of my power I just kept moving solar panels and pointing them at the sun. Thankfully I did NOT mount my solar panels to the roof being the roof was shaded by a tree. 

 

I do have a small 2kw generator I've packed on a few trips. Its a knock off generator that is super light and fair good with fuel consumption. Last year I had both of Eileen's grandkids out camping and took the generator being I wasn't sure how much solar power or sun I might get tuck in the trees. I brought a 100 foot cord and hauled the generator out as far as all my cord would give. I burned up over 5 gallons of fuel in just a few days. I do have a 4kw generator that will power the A/C but that thing is a beast of generator very heavy and it drink gasoline like a bar drunk. It will power my A/c no problem, water heater no problem, even the microwave, even all the above together on that 4kw. 

 

Now are you going camping to get away from it all? Me??? Absolutely!!! I'm will to give up the need for A/C. I'm will to give up the need for my cellphone and internet. Truthfully I welcome the idea being somewhere my phone doesn't work then I can turn it OFF!!! Could I go sit in a creek and play in the water? Absolutely. Could I take off on a ATV and go to a mountain lake and go fishing? Sure! How about grabbing a innertube and floating a river? More ways to cool off and enjoy your trip without the need for A/C. 

 

 

Edited June 20, 20213 yr by Mopar1973Man

A 1200w Gen is perfect for winter camping since they are small and it will power the converter to charge batteries, but as you mentioned it won’t run the a/c or microwave if you use them. 
 

We put a micro-air easy start on our a/c and just have a single 2200w Gen and 200w of solar with a 1500/3000w inverter. I can run the a/c, but I have to power manage the converter and fridge if I’m doing that. Generally battery SOC isn’t an issue summer camping since there is good sun and minimal 12V use compared to winter camping. 
 

I use to carry 2 2000w gens and prefer the single 2200 now. The micro air allows the a/c to start easier on the single 2200 at 6000’ than the pair of 2000’s did at sea level. It starts so easy you don’t even hear the compressor cycle on shore power. 
 

Bottom line you need to decide how you camp. Some people want the ability to use all 30A at any given time and need a Gen with 4K watts of surge. Other don’t. I have friends that camp with Keurigs and remote start generators, while I use a percolator and prefer not to unpack my generator unless I have to… which is usually on a cloudy day when the Traeger runs for 6-10 hours and the solar can’t quite keep up.

 

If you can’t find the paperwork you can look at each appliance. The fridge usually tells you what it draws on ac, 300 or 440 seems to be the standard. 55A converter is up to 1000w, but they often don’t hold that long. A/C needs up to 1700 running, and sometimes double that, or more, momentarily to start (did I mention micro-air yet 😁). Then the rest of the stuff is likely small draws. 

Edited June 20, 20213 yr by AH64ID

I do like camping far enough out that my phone doesn't work.  I like to go out find a place to set up and do nothing at all.  I've been doing fine the last 2 years with my pop up, small generator and a fan.  I just figured since I'm spending this much money on a camper I want to use it more often and not just during the comfortable heat level times of year.  I may or may not use the A/C but I like to know it's available should I start to get uncomfortable.  I used to go further away to camp but my wife isn't a huge fan of road trips so I tend to keep it local which makes finding a shady spot difficult sometimes.  I did find the paperwork but haven't got to go through it yet.  I just got back from Nebraska and my brother decided to buy my pop up so now I'm trying to get it ready for him.  I probably won't be able to do anything fancy like W-T was suggesting although it does sound pretty sweet, I'll probably end up with a regular gas generator for now.  Money has gotten a little tight after buying the camper, and now my washer and dryer have both decided to die at the same time.  I'll try and get at least 4500w or better to keep the A/C happy, not likely I'll use the microwave or TV.  If I have a fire pit, that's where everything gets cooked.   

  On 6/20/2021 at 12:20 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

If you going camping and need air conditioning your going the wrong spot.

I suppose this is why I don't go camping. If I'm going so far away from home that I don't need (really want) air conditioning, then I likely boarded an aircraft - or at the very least drove far enough from home I don't want to drag a camper at 60 MPH or less.

 

My truck is a genuine POS, I have no idea how you guys tow long distances and heavy. Two days ago I pulled a 16' box trailer not loaded heavy at all, was a beautiful 80 degree day, and EGT got to the yellow zone on my ISSPRO until I kicked it out of OD. 60 MPH and crazy (to me) RPM soon followed.

  On 6/25/2021 at 3:42 AM, LorenS said:

I have no idea how you guys tow long distances and heavy.

  I'll plan a five week/seven thousand mile trip pulling the fifth wheel at 60-65 MPH and love every minute.  The truck is not a daily driver and just turned 123K.

 

  On 6/25/2021 at 1:10 AM, Sycostang67 said:

If I have a fire pit, that's where everything gets cooked.   

I need the microwave working so I can heat up the apple pie to go with ice cream.

@LorenS are there any ways you can get yourself setup differently? 
 

On either of the rigs I’ve had long says towing isn’t even a second thought. 19-23GCW and 6-8% grade at 7000’ is just normal, as are 500+ mile days towing. 
 

Most camping trips are much shorter, but the trailer is often an afterthought and with the effort to get away. 
 

@IBMobilewe don’t even have a working microwave in the house right now. Hate those things. 

Edited June 25, 20213 yr by AH64ID

  On 6/25/2021 at 4:31 AM, AH64ID said:

On either of the rigs I’ve had long says towing isn’t even a second thought. 19-23GCW

I'm pretty confident that at those weights my truck wouldn't move, even on flat ground! I'm not sure of the history of that torque converter or stall speed.

 

I'm not sure how else to get set up to aid the EGTs, other than tweaking my Adrenaline tune. I have reman injectors now, with around 50k miles of mostly highway miles. I do have that set of 125 HPish, 8-hole injectors put in which I purchased around Christmas. My HE351W should be fine, right? Guaranteed BluOx01 tows farther and heavier than I ever do and will! He has same turbo.

 

Little tires, but overdrive is 0.69 and have 3.55 gearing. Just seems like 2600 RPM or so is excessive for the load I was pulling on flat Midwest terrain!

Even my 2002 truck at 82 MPH is 2500 RPM. Then at 66 MPH is 2000 RPM. Also 3.55 gears with 30 inch tires (245/75 R16).

  On 6/25/2021 at 1:08 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

66 MPH is 2000 RPM

I understand, I guess I just didn't expect to have to tow that light in 1:1 gear so as to not reach the warning track on EGTs. This is where a different 4th gear would be great, or a splitter like a Gear Vendors, etc.

You’re seeing the downfall of the OD ratio on the 47/48 trans. 
 

My 6th is .63 and with 3.42’s it’s still under 2000 at 85. In TH it won’t even go into 6th until 65. It will hold it decent at 65-70, but 5th and sometimes 4th are needed on the hills. 

I didn't think getting a generator would be so difficult.  Everybody was out of the larger units, I tried 3 nearby harbor freight stores multiple times, even put my name on one that was supposed to show up at TSC which finally arrived 3 weeks later than expected and I was called 2 hours after I had already left for my trip.  Thankfully I was able to get a 6000/5000watt generator through my work in a day.  It's a Pulsar, it's a bit noisier than I hoped but it works great and kept everything working without issue.  The wife said it was the most comfortable she had ever been camping.  

 

  On 6/25/2021 at 1:08 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

Even my 2002 truck at 82 MPH is 2500 RPM. Then at 66 MPH is 2000 RPM. Also 3.55 gears with 30 inch tires (245/75 R16).

 

The only part I hate about 4.10s and the "regular" sized tires (32s/33s).. 2000RPM is 60 mph. Mine works out to be what ever the speedo needle is at, the RPM needle is matched in angle. I can't go over 95 mph even if I was allowed to, that's the 3200 RPM redline. Working on getting 35s . 

 

@Mopar1973Man And/or @AH64ID, when you are saying the "19-32k gcw", that's truck and trailer right? 

 

  On 6/25/2021 at 3:42 AM, LorenS said:

Two days ago I pulled a 16' box trailer not loaded heavy at all, was a beautiful 80 degree day, and EGT got to the yellow zone on my ISSPRO until I kicked it out of OD. 60 MPH and crazy (to me) RPM soon followed.

 

If it's the 1600°F Isspro EGT gauge, the yellow band starts at 1000°F. Yeah hot, but I thought the Cummins was rated 1200°F continuous EGT.. Still, stress on the motor/lugging the motor isn't good for it..

 

 @Sycostang67, glad you found something that worked out. Even if it was a roller coaster to get there..

 

Wouldn't mind a road trip out into your guys neck of the woods to do that but id have to rough it in a tent.. no camper here, unless I rent something.. Plus its no small feat for me to go 3/4 of the way across the country.. Its 41 hrs to @Mopar1973Man's town from my town with no breaks. 2700mi.

  On 7/22/2021 at 6:07 PM, Silverwolf2691 said:

the yellow band starts at 1000°F

I'm not exactly sure what the max temp is shown on the gauge, but my yellow starts at like 1200-1250 degrees.  I got to thinking later that it very well could be that I just have too much CANbus fueling in my Level 3 table for towing.  It's great for empty!  Before I tow much again I'll use that tune as a starting point for a tow tune, but just back down the % CANbus in the higher PSI range.  15 PSI I'm at 137% and slowly rises to 144% at 28 PSI which I don't think I ever see.

Can you post a pic of your gauge? 

 

  On 7/22/2021 at 6:59 PM, LorenS said:

15 PSI I'm at 137% and slowly rises to 144% at 28 PSI which I don't think I ever see.

 

Jeebus.. my daily tune I top out at 128% and blow my wastegate open at 36-38 psi. The only one I top out is my sled pulling tune. And that tops out CanBUS at like 15 psi.. (wiretap starts at 5psi too. Runs clean up top believe it or not) 

Yes both truck and trailer. GCW = Gross Combined Weight. 
 

 

I usually recommended not getting gauges with the green/yellow/red markings as those are universal and do not apply to all, or even most, applications. Let’s look at EGT’s. @Mopar1973Man 2006 on stock tuning is capable of running 1450° all day, and often will easily exceed 1300° towing. It fine, since in stock from that motor uses retarded timing which puts more heat out the exhaust. Now if you take that same motor and run a tune with proper timing you would melt something at 1450° continuous. I always told folks 1250° continuous and 1300° momentary when towing with one of my tunes. See how a colored gauge would be misleading in both applications? That doesn’t even take probe placement into account. 
 

The same is true for colored trans temp gauges. What fluid? Probe placement? Etc.