So, I replaced the track bar today. Not a bad job really. But once done I went for a ride and now the steering wheel is turned to the left. The center isn't up and down now but about half way between level and up and down.

 I've read that one can fix this by adjusting the drag link that runs from the pitman arm down? Or is this a total alignment issue? I'd rather just fix it here if possible. I don't know why this would have moved anything provided the specs of both old and new bars were the same. (Which obviously isn't the case).

 The bar I removed was a moog problem solver. Keep in mind the truck has a bit less than 160k on it. So I assume this would be the 3rd track bar since new. Not a really good record if you ask me. 

 Thank in advance for any replies.

I have more questions than answers.  Are you the original owner of the truck?  Were any of the replacement track bars adjustable?  Has anyone ever re-centered the steering wheel during life of the truck?  Is the truck lifted?

 

If everything is still stock (including replacement track bars) and no steering or suspension parts are bent or damaged in some way, I think it would be okay to re-center the steering wheel using the adjustable sleeve near the pitman arm.

 

- John

 

 

8 minutes ago, Tractorman said:

I have more questions than answers.  Are you the original owner of the truck?  Were any of the replacement track bars adjustable?  Has anyone ever re-centered the steering wheel during life of the truck?  Is the truck lifted?

 @Tractorman

 I am not the original owner. I've had the truck about a year and a half.

 The track bar I removed was not adjustable neither was the replacement I installed.

 Unsure if the wheel has ever been centered.

 The truck is not lifted. Stock ride height.

I would at least do a visual check sighting down the side of the truck from the front right corner and then from the front left corner to see if the axle is centered under the truck.  If appears to be okay, then I would re-center the steering wheel.  After re-centering the steering wheel, I would turn the steering wheel from center all the way right and then left to see if the number of turns are equal in both directions.  If they are equal, the sector shaft in the steering gear box is centered as it should be and all is well.  If the number of turns are significantly different, there is a problem somewhere in the steering or suspension system that needs to be addressed.

 

- John

These guys are correct because you do have to make sure the wheels are the same distance from the fender sides, thereby centering the front differential. If not centered with a stock length track bar then you may have a 2 inch lift kit in the front throwing the center off. This explains the wheel not at 12 noon. When I got a 2 in leveling kit I had to get the adjustable track bar to recenter the wheels. That made the wheel go off so I had to make several attempts at adjusting the adjusting sleeve up near the pitman arm (not the one that adjusts the tie rod ends). Don't mess with that. Anyhow it no big deal adjusting the wheel back to 12 o' clock, just keep driving a few times and readjusting till you get it right. It will not throw off the alignment.

 

One last note.. I got rid of the level kit spacers above the springs. Didn't like the way it steered weird with big sag when loaded up.

Edited August 30, 20213 yr by JAG1

Normal. Just readjust the drag link turn buckle to make it right. Only takes a small amount to make straight again.

 Fixed! Took about 1.5 turns to straighten it back up.

 Crooked steering wheel is one of my pet peeves. Drives me crazy.

 Thanks for the responses!

Yeah there is always just a bit of difference in length from one bar to the next. I've always had to adjust a bit one way or the other. 

With time springs sag/settle frame comes closer to axle and changes the length of track bar. Best is to have adjustable so you can center front axle and body, if you don't it just puts more stress on track bar and they wear out faster. You basically pushing body off to one side now, not much but enough. 

Even just changing the steering box there is a slight offset in my truck I've got to adjust. Same thing...

I know when I changed my track bar 6 or so years back, just a non adjustable moog, it was longer than the one originally on the truck by a solid inch. My steering wheel needed to be re-adjusted as well. Re-replaced the moog 2 years back, no adjustment needed.

 Well, with the track bar replaced all was good until a few days ago on the way to work. Hit some RR tracks and got the death wobble again. Checked things out today. I think the ball socket that connect to the pitman arm may have a bit of play. Steering stabilizer is most likely shot as well just judging by appearance on that one.

 

I have not experienced death wobble myself.  From many articles I have read, it seems that there is a consensus that it is not likely that any one worn steering or suspension component would trigger a death wobble.  However, with many slightly worn components, the sum of all the worn components could trigger a death wobble.

 

Also, larger tires and wheels can play a role. 

 

- John

 After doing some more reading I realized that I did not properly torque the bolts. I'm going to take care of that in the morning. 

 From what I've seen the bolt to the axle with the bushing should be at 130 ft/lbs

 And the socket end should be at 62 ft/lbs.

 

 I will have to see if this makes a difference. If not then at least I know it was done correctly. 

Center wheel and be done with it.  

 

All good concerns posted by otheres but really doesnt mean anything lifted stock or otherwise.

 

KISS

 

Keep it stupid simple.  That's a concept us cummins guys have a hard time grasping even me.