when all it does is click click ? and when I get under the truck and hit it with a wrench while someone cranck it it would spin and start the truck ? last night my starter took a crap yet more :spend: to throw at the truck

Maybe you just need the starter contacts. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2824-Starter-Contacts?highlight=larry+b

99 percent of the time contacts.

Same here just contacts...

Samething happen to me. This is where I got the parts from. http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/instructions.html

replacing the contacts are way cheaper than replacing the entire starter...on my write up, there is a trick to get the contacts in there now to work. /threads/1911-Starter-contact-write-up">http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/1911-Starter-contact-write-up

Local auto zone stocks them for $149 and a life time warranty I think thats the easier safer way to go since I gotta pull it off the truck either way.

Do the "Super Size Start Contacts" that have 90% more surface area make it crank a lot faster? Mine doesn't crank any faster with 5 batteries than it does with 2 and think the small contacts might be the reason. When I put that many batteries on my ford, it would crank over at idle speed

The contacts are more Meaty or heavy duty. They should hold up better OEM. To spin stater faster you need more AMPS, until you fry your starter.

The contacts are more Meaty or heavy duty. They should hold up better OEM. To spin stater faster you need more AMPS, until you fry your starter.

The amps are there, I have several wires going to it. I am pretty sure that contact is just screwing me over.

you replace the starter when you can no longer rebuild the motor itself, worn out commutator mainly, brushes can be replaced and even the commutator can be trued up easily enough on a lathe. if the motor shorts out and burns up in the process well then you got grounds to replace it, be easier than rewiring at that point.

Local auto zone stocks them for $149 and a life time warranty I think thats the easier safer way to go since I gotta pull it off the truck either way.

Only partially correct - ie the price quote may be correct. Autozone starters are historically problematic. You are better off to check your contacts while it is off and replace them. Mine were shot at 110,000 mi & starter is going fine at 156,000. Only the contacts in the solenoid have been replaced. Cost was <$35. Time only slightly more than R&R.

I tried to take my starter apart but the long bolts snapped in the housing, so had no choice but to replace the starter. It is a Champion with a 3 year warranty, pricier here in Canada, around $300, but has been rock solid for around a year now.

I'm surprised your starter didn't fry your fuel solenoid. I've changed my contacts once. It was an easy fix. The hardest part for me was getting to the bolts on the starter. A ratcheting 10mm made the work easier.

I'm surprised your starter didn't fry your fuel solenoid. I've changed my contacts once. It was an easy fix. The hardest part for me was getting to the bolts on the starter. A ratcheting 10mm made the work easier.

I used to have an 1984 Bronco II that would go through a starter a year. Tried NAPA, a year later back for another. Did that twice, then went to Autozone. Same thing, just a lifetime warranty instead of NAPA's one year warranty. I figure I will be doing my Cummins gefore too much longer at 140k miles.

Why buy a starter for $150 to $200 when 99% of the time is is bad contacts, or repace a altenator for about the same when it is most likely bad brushes or bearings. Vacuum pump and Power steering pump 99% of the time bad seals all can be rebuilt at home for a little time. Cummins are Medium Duty Truck engines so things are made to be rebuilt not replaced. When I saw that Geneo's Gurage sells these kits mostly for less than $50. I knew that would be the way that I would go.

Why buy a starter for $150 to $200 when 99% of the time is is bad contacts, or repace a altenator for about the same when it is most likely bad brushes or bearings. Vacuum pump and Power steering pump 99% of the time bad seals all can be rebuilt at home for a little time. Cummins are Medium Duty Truck engines so things are made to be rebuilt not replaced. When I saw that Geneo's Gurage sells these kits mostly for less than $50. I knew that would be the way that I would go.

depends on how far gone it is but if you inspect it often enough you can catch it and do these fixes. if you dont replace the brushes before they get too short then commutator damage can result, not as easy to fix.

depends on how far gone it is but if you inspect it often enough you can catch it and do these fixes. if you dont replace the brushes before they get too short then commutator damage can result, not as easy to fix.

You are 100% correct, it is all about preventive maintenance, the Cummins will last between 500,000 and 1,000,000 miles, but the accessories will need to be serviced many times during that time.

$150 to $200 is cheap! Check the prices from Larry B

Finally got some time to change it, I bought the kit from Larry B which was kind enough to send me a pair of gloves and a bandage ( non latex ) haha It was super easy to change out even the top bolt on the starter was very easy to get out , the old contacts were GONE one side was almost not there anymore