my 98 5 speed is starting to act funny between shifts wont get in gear hard to downshift and close to impossible to down shift into 3rd gear and up shift into 5th gear I must rev it up past 2k if I want it to get into 5th downshifting is a whole other story its wearing out my brakes so bad I get the truck loaded with wood for my firewood deliveries and riding the brakes all the time is not working out very well for my pockets I already flushed and filled the trans with GL-4 Napa gear oil and it did not do anything the fluid that came out was NASTY green and had almost an auto trans feel to it very watery like that's my options ? rebuild ? 6 speed swap ? how hard is that and do they have PTO ? I need a PTO for my dump body or is there some kind of linkage on the shifter that went bad ? I doubt its a linkage of any kind

I cant help you but there are a couple places that offer rebuilds for a good price, not sure how well they are rebuilt though. http://www.blumenthalmfg.com/ http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-RAM-Truck-2500-3500-NV4500-5spd-Manual-Transmission-/360489569897?_trksid=p4340.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222001%26algo%3DSIC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D11%26meid%3D2256551778595163264%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D1005%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D360484257269%26

Sounds like the synchros are going bad, Time for a refresh of internals, not a bad job but it may be left for a tranny shop if you are not handy or do not have tool or capability to do it.Stick with the nv 4500 it is a lot better tranny overall than the nv5600.Has it ever had the mainshaft updated to fix the 5th gear nut issue?

how many miles on your NV4500?

truck just turned 152k I have no clue if the 5th gear nut was fixed I bought it a year ago and put no more than 4k miles so far

The NV 4500 uses a very specific lubricant. I would try draining and adding the correct fluid. (not cheap, but neither is another tranny)It does sound synchro related, but happening suddenly in all gears simultaneously smells more like clutch disc dragging, or not fully disengaging. (disc separation, slave cylinder leaking, master cylinder bleeding by.) An overnight test would be park it somewhere flat with nothing in front of it or behind. Set parking brake. Push clutch pedal to floor and hold it there all night. (you can do that, though it is rather boring, and your leg gets tired.) I suggest a stick propped against seat. In the morning put in first or reverse, release parking brake and start truck. If it moves the SLIGHTEST bit shut off (quickly!) and start diagnosing if it is the clutch actuation or clutch itself. Any difference if you double clutch? Any difference if you match engine speeds during shifts?All dying together just seems odd. Could be fluid related too. The clutch and fluid touch all gears.HagPS add an exhaust brake. apparently HUGE difference for stopping. Hope mike will chime in here. Hope to be installing mine in a couple weeks.

Update Yesterday I was doing a firewood delivery and on way home ( 2 miles from house ) the truck made a loud pop and stopped moving right after I got it out of 2nd gear and put it in 3rd as I let go the clutch I hear shatter when I release the clutch to move forward or back with no movment at all and guessing its the clutch dist gave up ? will open the trans up this weekend and see what it is expecting to see the clutch in pieces or a broken thorugh out bearing what else should I do while the trans is out ? what is the dowel pin can someone point me to the right direction ? and what is the 5th gear ball ?

Wow.

It might be worth listening to before you take it out. Is the noise in the tranny or the clutch.

I hope it is just the clutch. That is the simplest solution.

I would do a good visual through the PTO covers. You might want to look at the 5th gear retainer. (search nv4500 5th gear fix, or 5th gear nut.)

Not sure about the dowel pin or 5th gear ball?

Make sure you put the correct fluid in!!! It is NOT available at the zones. You will have to get it from a GM dealer, Chrysler dealer or order it online.

Good Luck!!!

Hag

Blumenthal out of Oklahoma city sells it for $12.95 qt.

I had just replaced the trans with GL-4 fluid I found it in a Napa's truck store and it was not cheap and it met the specification as per the owner manual and the local dodge dealer ( I called and they did not have any at the time ) The noise is from the front of the trans listening to it from the inside the cab, I didnt get under the truck and wont get under the truck while in gear the noise is only while its in gear I had a Nissan back in the day the clutch got so messed up that I could walk out the car with it in gear and it wont move an inch it also did a very similar noise as if the springs on the clutch are just rubbing against the fly wheel ( kinds like a little baby rattle toy noise )

I hope its the clutch for you, much less hassle.I have only torn the center out of one. Most of mine failed in ways that you couldn't release them. (so didn't make noise but fun putting the car in gear at the light with the engine off, and hitting the starter, starting the engine with it in gear and adding enough gas to get it going and not hop.) Springs falling into the PP, broken fork, separating clutch frictions.The separating clutch frictions was what came to mind when you first described your trouble, but didn't explain your loss of motion. Good Luck!!Hag

Update :Due to my crazy work hours I left the truck at my friend's repair shop and he opened the trans this morning to find the clutch in 100+ pieces and a flywheel that is slightly damaged so we ordering a flywheel and clutch kit this afternoon and hope the truck is back on the road by tomorrow I will also tack weld the 5th gear nut while the trans is out even thou I never had a problem with 5th popping out the whole time I owned the truck pictures will be here soon once I get to the shop this afternoon.

Dude, I want to say "awesome", but that doesn't sound just right, especially if taken without regard to context!!!I am glad it is basically just the clutch though!!I totally understand upsidedown schedules!Good luck!Hag

Im with Hag, clutch is alot better than the trans.

I am going to start looking for exhaust brake as well, what brands should I look into ? and how hard is it to install the valve springs ? do I need special tools or skills ? some of them only work on stock exhaust now I have stock exhaust but lets say I want to change to aftermarket at some point do I have to get a different exhaust brake setup ?

I would also change the slave cylinder and master for the clutch. Mine all failed around the same time, first the clutch then master.. You can get a pre bled unit, but costly. If you have some patience buy the 2 parts separate, partially bleed it and then pump the pedal a couple of hundred time(honestly I kid you not) and it will then bleed it self eventually.

Really ? is it that bad bleeding a clutch on the truck ?

Unfortunately they never put a bleed screw on the slave. If you do it, do both units, i did the slave and then the master went, just died with no warning. I had about 240k miles when this all happened.

Talk with Mike on the Exhaust brake. There was a guy that had them on ebay inexpensive. I think it is a direct bolt on for your truck. (I believe you have the V-band type waste gate.) they were cummins kits for dealer installs. I can't find my purchase yet and don't see them. grrrr.Keep watching. There are some nice banks kits relatively inexpensive, the pac brake seems to be the most popular and probably the new ones, the best, but pricey. For your truck should be basically direct bolt on. Maybe some exhaust work. GL Hag

203K miles on my trans and zero problem using solely the Mopar Trans fluid and changing every 100K miles. As for my clutch I broke the hub on my stock clutch at 150K miles. Now the South Bend Con OFE is holding good. As for mountain road travel I've got no issues with that. I can travel up and down just about any Idaho grade without using my service brakes. Like right now driving about 90-110 miles one way for SAR's duty in the middle of nowhere Idaho climbing mountain road. Even hauling firewood I've got no problems.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vh7lOJLD948

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KDjMzmV4bbw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0yjDv8Slkw

  Rick C in Oakville said:

I would also change the slave cylinder and master for the clutch. Mine all failed around the same time, first the clutch then master.. You can get a pre bled unit, but costly. If you have some patience buy the 2 parts separate, partially bleed it and then pump the pedal a couple of hundred time(honestly I kid you not) and it will then bleed it self eventually.

Rock Auto sells a slave with a bleeder screw. Not sure wich one it is but I bought one a while back. It made bleeding very easy. I replaced my master 2 years ago and wish 200 pumps was true. I pumped mine for ever just to get it on the road and it took me near 3 weeks of driving to get it completly bled. It still was a fair amount cheaper than buying the pre bled unit.