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As the title says, I bought me a first gen Dodge Cummins.

 

It's a 1991.5 D250, regular cab, with a getrag 5 speed. The odometer stopped at 154,000, but the PO said it has about 160,000 on it.

 

Dad and I drove nearly 500 miles up to Arkansas to pick it up.

 

The rust is just surface, it's not bad yet.

 

 

 

Video link:

http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t488/WillM1/My%20Truck/th_HDV_1212_zps5b9e2ac9.mp4

 

 

SAM_0701_zps7b478f9f.jpg

 

SAM_0702_zps73fa71b4.jpg

 

DSC_0086_zpsa29c2b6c.jpg

 

DSC_0078_zps9980c4f3.jpg

 

SAM_0710_zps25412a6f.jpg

 

It has some electrical problems. The most important one was to get the turn signals, head lights, tail lights, and brake lights to work. I feared the worst, and thought it might be a bad grimlin. After an hour or so of checking the obvious things out, I reattached a ground wire, and the headlights worked.

With dad's help, and a test light, the signals were getting power, and so were the park lights, but one would signal, but the park light wouldn't work, and the other light was just the opposite. Turns out 1 bulb's signal filament was out, while the park light filament was good, and the other was just the opposite.

One rear tail light worked great, and the other did nothing. After chasing some wires, we found that the wiring harness going to that light was pinched between the frame and the recently installed rear bumper, nearly cutting it in two. Re-wired that and it's good to go. Now I can pass the state inspection.

 

The other issue is the gauge lights don't work... Haven't looked at that yet.

Also the key ring light stays on, and eventually drains the battery. I just pull the #10 fuse and it fixes that. (for now)

 

It needs a little front end work, and new tires, and I need to fix the E brake, and install new door hinge bushings.

 

The interior is clean. The dash is not cracked, along with the windshield. The seat is not ripped, the headliner scores a 9.9 out of 10. It's missing the carpet, but I'm fine with that - I'll put down some good floor mats and call it a day.

 

For $2,400, I'm happy.

Edited by Texas CTD

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Finished up the powerstroke inter cooler install last weekend.

 

Testing for leaks:

 

 

 

pipe3_zpsqejqpmk4.jpg

 

New intake and "hot" I/C pipe:

 

DSC_0004_zpsmcrrrrgi.jpg

 

 

 

 

"Cold" pipe and 24V intake horn:

 

 

 

pipe_zpsngx6kkrp.jpg

 

 

DSC_0003_zpstowaeura.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

  • Staff

If it ever gets too hot down there in Texas I have a first gen (Oregon) that could use some of that TLC.

 

Nice work.

  • Author

Thank you! 

Sometime soon, the intake horn will be as shiny as the pipes...

 

Next step is to rebuild the Getrag and throw a clutch in it, which may take a while, since I daily drive the truck, so I will have to work that out somehow. I've never rebuilt a trans, so I know it's going to take me a while.

 

I still need a piston lift pump, and then I'll be ready for some more fuel and air.

  • Author
On 4/16/2016 at 10:12 AM, CTcummins24V said:

I want an idle/driving video! Those old 12 valves sound awesome!

 

New video from today:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1FEBzUmipqI&feature=youtu.be

 

Old videos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zwe-Li9NjJc

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yg212nA1KMY

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1HLM7whCQfY

Edited by Texas CTD

  • 1 month later...
  • Author

I bought a piston lift pump, waiting to get installed.

 

Bought a core Getrag 360 to rebuild.

This thing was advertised as a fresh rebuild that has sat for a couple years. I popped the top cover, and....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

DSC_0202_zps2rq9az5n.jpg

DSC_0203_zps3vxlghlu.jpg

 

DSC_0203_zps3vxlghlu.jpg

 

 

 

 

So I bought it for 200 bucks, and I'm in the process of tearing it apart, and see what all needs replaced. Bearings and synchros obviously, but I'm hopping gears or shafts aren't too pitted.

 

 

 

 

Another video, because I was bored. To give you an idea of how slow it is, I let out at 60 MPH:lol3:

 

 

Edited by Texas CTD

Truck sounds good!  

 

Those gears dont look healthy...  even if you use them i bet they will have a significantly reduced life.  

For that reason if I ever store anything for a long time I always fill things with cheapest motor oil to the top, and if oil can come out in have used a storage tub with random stuff in it submerged with anything I had including used oil. Used oil is not the best but it's better than rust.

14 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

For that reason if I ever store anything for a long time I always fill things with cheapest motor oil to the top, and if oil can come out in have used a storage tub with random stuff in it submerged with anything I had including used oil. Used oil is not the best but it's better than rust.

 

I pulled a 340 apart that was like that... the water displaced the oil and the bottom was full of ice.  The oil kept the oxygen out and rust to a minimum though.

  • Author

The transmission was locked up when I got it.

 

I filled the case up with WMO, and after a week or so, I got it broke free. After spinning it over by hand, it knocked off most of the surface rust, and surprisingly, the gears look pretty good. My fingers are still crossed, and I won't determine if they're usable until I pull them apart and go over them thoroughly.

 

The shift cover is now submerged in oil. Hopefully it will free up the roll pins and the rails will come out with ease.

 

This is my first time inside any kind of transmission, so it will definitely be a learning experience. 

  • 2 months later...
  • Author

I ended up putting trans rebuild on hold longer than I wanted to. I just had too much other stuff going on, plus I needed a shop press to finish disassembling the output shaft. Press should be here next week, and then I can make some headway.

 

Did a few things to the truck in the mean time... Longer power screw, because the stock one bottomed out before reaching maximum power potential from the screw. Nice bump in power, but added a lot of smoke, so I did some more tuning to try and clean it up.

And I got tired of blowing the 2.5"-3" coupler on the charge pipe coming from the turbo, and not having much faith in the other intercooler boots, so I upgraded to a 3" outlet off of the volute, and better 3"x6" boots.

 

 

 

 

 

IMG_20160808_101835_zpslxs8hufm.jpg

 

 

 

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I squeezed 38 PSI out of the HX35. Now I need some constant torque clamps.

 

Next is finish the trans and install the clutch. Then new gauges, injectors and a turbo. Not sure if I'm going to do head work before or after the injectors & turbo - depends on how anxious I get. (head work meaning, o-rings, maybe some P&P)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Author
17 hours ago, dripley said:

Do tell more about the boots you are using.

 

Sorry, meant to post a link.

 

Not bad for $26.93 each.

 

http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/Shop-by-Category/Charged-Air-Cooler-Hose/Vibrant-Charge-Air-Cooler-Hose-4-Ply-6-Long-High-Temperature

Item Code: VIBCAH
Brand: Vibrant Performance
Color: Black
Length: 6"
Material: Silicone
Burst Pressure: 100 psi
Temp. Rating: -65F to 500F
Wall: 4 Ply Aramid Reinforced
VMS Part # MFG Part #  Size
 (Hose ID)
Length
(OAL)
Color Burst
Pressure
VIBCAH-300-3-BLK    11820  3.00"
 (76.2mm)
6.00"
(152.4mm)
Black 100 psi
VIBCAH-350-3-BLK    11821  3.50"
 (88.9mm)
6.00"
(152.4mm)
Black 100 psi
VIBCAH-400-3-BLK    11822  4.00"
 (101.6mm)
6.00"
(152.4mm)
Black 100 psi

 

 

  • 1 month later...
  • Author

Little update:

 

Long story short, I decided against rebuilding that core Getrag I bought.

 

I got it fully disassembled, and it needed everything. Only usable part was the gear case. That was $2,000 worth of parts, sourced from the cheapest sources I could find. For a few hundred more dollars, I could have a rebuilt NV4500 and swap kit. I almost pulled the trigger on that upgrade, but part of me wanted to push the Getrag and see how long it would last. So I put a roller bearing kit, and new seals in the Getrag that's in my truck, along with a Valair 400 HP organic clutch I bought a while back.

Ended up pulling the trans twice, thanks to an odd pressure plate noise I have yet to figure out. Seems like it's curing itself though, and hasn't given me any trouble.

 

Got a couple hundred miles on it now, and it seems to be doing okay. I'm slowly building up some courage to mash the go pedal. :pray:

  • 1 month later...
  • Author

Little update...

 

Got some new tires. 265/75/16 Pathfinder A/T's, so far I like the traction, but fuel mileage has suffered a little.

 

Vacuum pump seal started leaking oil, and the carrier bearing needs replaced again. Need to fix those soon.

 

I added an Isspro Classic series 4K tachometer to the steering column.

I have Isspro boost, pyro, fuel pressure gauges going in this week, in place of my older banks gauges.

 

I talked to Eric at The Hungry Diesel today, and ordered a set of his "custom" 6x.013" injectors. Those should be sweet, and a turbo upgrade should come shortly after.

 

Little video I shot today.

 

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QvSAg5eyxC0&feature=youtu.be

 

Edited by Texas CTD

  • 2 weeks later...