is it possible to remove the sending unit without removing the fuel tank?I want to see how much of a job it is to increase the fuel suction lines.

I've found the easiest way to deal with the sending units is to pull the bed but not everyone can do that. If you want to try it there are 6- 15mm bolts that hold the bed down and 1- 3/8 bolt with a ground strap. This makes getting the giant nut a lot easier to get off.

I've pull my fuel tank 2 times already and it really easy to just drop the tank. I pump the tank dry into 5 gallon buckets. Then loosen the bands till nearly ready to drop. At that point I unscrew the sender collar and let the sender stand up out of the tank so when I drop the tank the sender is coming out. Now you can remove the fuel lines without breaking the fuel lines or clip which are nearly impossible to release when packed with mud and dirt in confined space between the bed.

I vote for removing the bed.  Installed a liberty module a while ago and it was not too bad.  I used a engine lift with straps to the 4 bed tie down points.  You also have to unbolt the filler neck and remove the taillights to unclip the wires from the box.  It is easy to do.

I can tell you guys don't have a lot of stuff running through your beds.... My vote is to drop the tank like Mike said. I have a full wiring loom for a gooseneck running up through the bed, 2 safety chain brackets bolted through the bed and into the hitch, and the slider arm for the turnover ball requires me to pull the inner fender or bend the rod straight and unbolt everything. If I didn't have any of that stuff I would probably pull the bed though.

That's my problem. I would have to take the canopy off first. Then clear the bed out. The unhook all the wiring and tail lights. Then pull the bed.

 

Dropping the two tank bands (I drop the carrier bearing because of the front band is under it.), 1 electrical connection, 3 hoses and 1 fill hose and vent. Tank is on the floor.

 

Notes

If you want to get it done easier. Invite friends over to drink beer and get him to drop the tank for you.

The other option to all of this nonsense is just go to a tank sump and call it a day

 

This is the one that I got. Didnt take me a half hour to install. The most time consuming part was draining the tank.

I have a few things to remove along with a bunch of wiring for the rack lights and antennas.  Took 3 hrs by myself.  I don't like crawling around under the truck if I don't have to especially dropping something like a bulky fuel tank.  

Edited April 25, 20159 yr by ABennin

3 hours to pull the bed when you can have the tank on the ground in under 30 min??? I don't understand it but I guess if it works for you that's what matters.

I drop the tank.  I've done it more times than I can count (12+1).

 

When working with the fill spout, be careful with the metal part, cause it is only mounted to the bed with a wimpy plastic... thing.... that will break.  So removing the 3 screws may be a good idea.

 

Sump is a good option, I like mine.

 

If it's removing the bed vs dropping the tank, IMO, dropping the tank wins.  However, depending on your setup and what you're trying to do, you may be able to remove the 4 bolts holding the bed on on the drivers side, and then loosen up the 4 passengers side bolts and jack the drivers side of the bed up to gain clearance for what you're trying to do.

 

I have never had to remove the carrier bearing to drop the tank.

 

it took 22 minutes to drop the tank last I timed (assuming it's already under 1/4 tank).

I have never had to remove the carrier bearing to drop the tank.

 

Mine is odd... The tank band is under the carrier bearing bracket.

good opinions guys,there's a few options I think I'll drop the tank ,will draining the tank with the ddrp do it,might kill my batteries? 

You can cut an opening in the bed. Makes it easy to do tank unit maintenance.

good opinions guys,there's a few options I think I'll drop the tank ,will draining the tank with the ddrp do it,might kill my batteries? 

It shouldn't if you have decent batteries. The lift pumps really don't draw very much power.

You can cut an opening in the bed. Makes it easy to do tank unit maintenance.

It's lotsa work to frame it in for strengthening it again though.

Changed my mind,I'll cut an opening with a zip cut blade then re enforced with a bolt on cover,did anobody do the oversize tubing on the unit,is it simple and do I have to increase the return line? 

Return line should be fine factory sized. It's just the supply line that is not big enough.

 

 

The other option to all of this nonsense is just go to a tank sump and call it a day

 

This is the one that I got. Didnt take me a half hour to install. The most time consuming part was draining the tank.

 

That is a option for most pavement queens. I would just check with local laws ans see if there is any problems with bottom draw tanks being used on highway. There is a reason the fuel is supplied out of the top for safety reasons. As for me I'm still looking from a distance at the sump idea just worry a bunch about the snagging on debris like tree limbs and logs that I run over. I managed to push a dent in the passenger floor in the back seat years ago from just running over a small log. The other problem I would see for city folks is anyone what to steal your diesel fuel will have a handy drain right there. Just unscrew the fuel line and all the diesel you can carry will drain out. I know I've seen reports of fuel thieves using cordless drills and pop a hole in the tank and drain it out.

Your right Mopar ,I go fishing and hunting in the back trails a little rough country,I'm sticking to cutting out an inspection hole in the bed and re enforced

Your right Mopar ,I go fishing and hunting in the back trails a little rough country,I'm sticking to cutting out an inspection hole in the bed and re enforced

1/4'' aluminum diamond plate fits flush to the bed corrugation. Remember to stop the cuts on the left and right sides leaving the lower corrugation to hold the cover when screwed down.

 

You'll find a lot of work in building steel framing once you cut the bed over the tank module, but, it's sure nice for getting access and pulling out the module in less than a couple minutes whenever you need.

Do you have any photos?

I've seen his setup in person but like I dummy I didn't get a picture of it. I did find his old write up...

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/8113-truck-bed-tank-module-access-pics/

Edited January 17, 20169 yr by JAG1