Leaderboard

Ok. We've talked on the phone. Now so other are clear its a AirDog FRRP. So he's direct connected to the ECM as well as using stock plumbing. As for the ECm it would be direct control of the fuel pump and it would be smart to add the relay to take the stress off the ECM. If the rotor is binding up it might be pulling extra amps on the ECM. You might check for the P0230 error code.

After ea. adjustment you have to keep driving the truck down a straight road to get it exact. Took me about 4 tries to get it real good.

My Raptor frrp developed an internal leak after just barely a year, introducing air into the system and causing hard starts after sitting for a few hours. So I called Air Dog and they got a new one out right away, no questions asked. They don't even request my pump in return which I thought was pretty neat. Now some of you may remember my post a few weeks ago about the Air Dog 100 I had the chance to pick up for dirt cheap. I ended up taking it apart, the motor was fried without a doubt. So rather then throw it out like the guy was going to do I put it on the shelf in the garage, I just could not see throwing something like that out.Now fast forward a few weeks, my frrp craps out, I get a new one on the way and the guy tells me he doesn't want my old pump back . Out of curiosity I pulled my frrp apart to compare the differences between the 2 pumps. Turns out they're all common parts. I bolted the motor up to the Air Dogs Georator, put 12 volts to it and she made short work of a gallon of fuel! I can't hook it to my truck without hacking all my fuel lines apart but I have some fittings and fuel line coming from Vulcan. When I get it on the truck I'll update you guys with the performance and a few pics, but it looks pretty good so far.Here is a few pics for comparisonfrrp motorAirDog100 motorfrrp motor on the AirDog 100. Notice the little raptor sticker

Can't speak for everyone but if your not gonna need the bed space for supplie's(Food, Cooler's, etc.) I would just put it in the truck. The rzr's i've seen are little compared the the 2 or 3 seat 4x4/6x6's one's so should fit good In the truck bed that's alot less worry. Plus 2 less wheel's to blow out, 2 less Bearing's to fail, etc. (I think of every way possible something could go wrong lol) plus as you said it will use less fuel not alot less that trailer wouldn't put really any drag on the truck and also a trailer that small in most of my truck's i can't see it till i turn sharp but in my opinion truck bed hope this help's and have a safe and fun trip

You'll be fine. As for the rear axle weight of the truck mine is 2,860 pounds curb weight right now. I've got a rear GAWR of 6,084 pounds which allows roughly 3,224 pounds I could carry over the rear axle. I haul my 700 pound ATV in the back of Mom's 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 without a thought about it. I haul heavier loads in mine as a seasonal thing... I know your toy is less weight than all this... 2002 Dodge 2500 Door sticker http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1546&d=1281643390 1996 Dodge 1500 door sticker

Yep, you are good to go!!

This is in theory. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2876-Anyone-good-at-math And more. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/1262-Military-testing-of-2-cycle-oil-in-diesel-fuel

I've gotten a few other test at close to 128:1 ratios and the finally number floats around 380-400 HFRR roughly. But I never got a exact 128:1 ratio test yet. Why I said...

Not much of a write up but here it is http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/6376-47re-to-NV4500-swap I had one light on in my dash but cannot remember what it was because I pulled the bulb. Copy and pasted from a member over at CF. my cruise didnt work at first but i did some reserch and found that on your PCM on connecter 1 circuit 4 is the wire that showes this being in park or drive so it will work. To find this wire you will have 3 connecters on your PCM Blk , White , and gray. Find your black connecter , then find a black with white tracer( only blk with white tracer in this connecter. CUT IT NOW GO DRIVE YOUR TRUCK AND USE YOUR CRUISE CONTROL.

Fly by wire (Manual Trans)PCM -> ECM -> VP44 Automatic TransmissionPCM -> Vacuum servo -> mechanical linkage

I am running the 2 stroke at 128:1, like I read here and elsewhere. The study is based on a 200:1 ratio. I would have to let smarter minds than mine explain what the difference would be. But for me the 2 stroke is the easiest for me to get anywhere I go.

I think your truck can be made to haul that RV still. But you'll have to invest in changing out the tires and coming back down to a smaller tire. 235's or 265's. 235's will be better for towing better stability. Then add some air bags to the rear axle. Might in invest in some good shocks all the way around. I know your heavy on the rear axle but you not really outrageous.As for finding the gem. I would be hard pressed to find a truck with less than 250K around me. I'm not much for CL or Ebay dealers. I've seen to many people getting scammed with vehicle sales. I would hit the local dealers where your at and see what options you got and maybe ask if they would put there eyes out looking for you.

Yes. There is a adjustment on the drag link for center your steering wheel. Make only 1/2 turn adjustments and check. You'll be surprised at how fast that alter the center placement.

i think yer vp took a dookie man, might want to check that out... jus sayin HAHAHAHAHHAAH

A manual ECM will make your truck think its a manual. There is an nv5600 on cf right now for $1200 in Oregon and he said he would ship.

Just be sure to put it in your diesel fuel and not the gas.