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Lots of people will most likely jump for synthetic lubes. Me personally I tend to hop for the petroleum GL-5 80w-90 (light duty) 85w-140 (heavy duty). When people clear 1 million miles without axle failures that run truck for hotshotting I would say it a good selection.

Well...............if you insist!!!!! Just erring on the side of caution.

I put the BD steering box brace on my 3rd gen and the results were VERY noticeable. I would recommend it if they make one for the 2nd gens for sure!! Maybe I'm HYPERSENSITIVE; I dunno, but most everything that I do, and have done to my truck over the years, I can and do notice a difference. That difference my just be the SOP or "butt-O-meter, or actual calculations like mileage. For example: my Smarty is way better than the Edge J w/A I ran. That's an SOP feeling as that I never actually compared the 2 side-by-side with actual dyne numbers. Another example: my mileage has picked up by at least 1mpg since I installed the "free-spin" hub kit on my truck. The recent trip I took to KY that got me 22.1mpg would've been closer to the 20mpg mark prior. I've posted lots of other mileage stuff here also for any doubters. That's not SOP, but real world calculations. Yet another example: the BD steering box brace I added years ago. Twas an instant improvement in wheel response and feel...............before/after.

I went out and looked at mine and it looks like it's just a clip lock plug. you might take a pair of channel locks and pinch the button and try pushing it together then pull it apart. Mine didn't take much to get them to separate.

I would agree with jag, the laws of physics are the laws of physics, no matter how good your truck is, it cannot eliminate Newtons laws only make it less prevalent. You can go to a smaller tire, but somewhere (probably many times) your horns have been offset by a force holding against the steering, whether you were setting up against a log you didn't see or a curb, had to swerve to miss a jackwagon....options are numerous. All I am saying is any potential force against those rails is also a force against your steering box, no matter how small, and while it may take a long time to rear its head, its not improving your box life. The frame has to flex some, but not like these are capable. Mike, Maybe you just think its tight cause you don't have a brace on it to know the difference. J/K LOL

Thanks for the info, I agree, axles need love too. W that Dana 80, shes got a big ol' Butt. That's what makes my truck sexy! Dave

+1 ^^^^^ Just as you'll need to keep the trans fluid changed ( for heat damage) axles need love too! Contamination from water and low levels due to leaks are probably the #1 consideration.

If your doing a trans temp gauge... Buy 2 sensors, 2 bungs and a toggle switch then you can put a sensor in the rear diff and the transmission and cover both items on one gauge.

I want to say the guys over at DAP are a great group of folks Their customer service is amazing, and they have my business from here on out!!

Finally got it to stop leaking!!! DAP sent me a new injector and I installed it yesterday, and no leak from the get go :hyper: Tried with the other injector so many times it was ridiculous... I did have it to only a slow dribble at least and not pouring out like it was at the beginning.. But now Yabba is ready for his road trip this weekend!! I even got the topper switched over from Scooby to Yabba He will be my camper this coming week!!! In the words from one of my friends "Floydfest is five glorious days of incredible music, food, shopping, outdoor adventures and entertainment amenities for all ages, in the guise of a music festival complete with Floydfests' 'tent city', set atop of an 80 acre plateau off the beautiful Blue Ridge Parkway near Floyd, VA. www.floydfest.com :thumb1:"

Whatever fluid you decide to go with, I recommend as do many others to over fill the transmission by 1 quart. Some recommend 2 quarts: http://highgeartransmission.wordpress.com/tag/nv5600-6-speed-transmission/ to ensure the #5 aft shaft bearing gets adequate lubrication which seems to be one of the worst points. Here is a good read on what goes on inside the NV5600 requiring rebuild: http://blog.genosgarage.com/wordpress1/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/TDR67_MyNV5600.pdf

After removing the old injectors, I couldn't believe Yabba was running as well as he has been... (must be all on Heart) The old injectors were soooooooo nasty I have no doubt they were the original injectors. 257,134mi and now we have new life!! Icky huh?? Now, when I tromp on the pedal it jumps up to 80 in the blink of an eye!! Love it!!!

OMG!!! WOW!!! Woke Yabba up and put some giddy up go in his step!!! I will post some pictures in a bit, I need to go take a shower, feed the horses etc...

Thanks Tom, Now I'm hungry for potato chips

I know I can buy mine cheaper from the looks of it

paypal/bill me later does that. Most vendors accept it, and if you spend over $100, you get 6 months interest free to pay it off. Works out really well. DAP has it, Rock Auto and just about everyone else.

I would however, a friend bought them for me on his Summitracing card so that I could just make payments vs having to lay out all the cash at once... Remember I just had the heads done on the Lincoln and 6 brand spanky new shoes for Yabba So, 6mo interest free makes it the only choice right now

The only 4 hole injector I know of for the 12v is a marine injector so I don't think it would have the correct spray pattern to get a good clean burn in your truck. As for SAC or VCO they say VCO injectors run a bit cleaner than SAC but I don't know if it's really that big of a difference or not.

Ok, the good news is the replacement injectors got here today But, the bad news is they sent the same 60 hp SAC injectors they sent before They said they would be sending the original 40hp VCO nozzles and a hoodie for my troubles... Yeah, 60hp smoky SAC nozzles vs the 40hp VCO clean burning... Or at least so I hear Should I keep the 4 hole 60hp SAC injectors??? And if so why? The guy at BD is the one who said they would smoke all the time I do not like any of my vehicles to smoke and would like to have clean burning power with better MPG's. All opinions welcome Please

It's not the number of holes, but rather the spray angle. The 12 valve injectors are at an angle to the piston and the 24 valve injector is right above the piston. HOWEVER, no matter how many holes or lack there of, if the injector is not spraying into the bowl in the piston you will melt the piston and probably have an EGT and smoke problem too.

That is why I bought a 97 Most of the time there is a method to my madness!!! (most of the time... not all of the time .. heheehe)

Hey at least 12V you can change like spark plugs on a in-line 6 cylinder. 24V is bit more messy and trouble.

They should be 5 hole injectors for the 12v, I believe what BD calls a +40hp injectors for the auto trucks is a 5x0.010 injector (same as the stock injector in a 215hp 12v) When I make the upgrade to bigger injectors I'm planing on getting them from DAP since I know they build good injectors, and they sell them for a reasonable price $355(plus core) for a set of 5x0.012 injectors (+90hp)

The NV5600 is a truck tranny. Many have complained of shifting in the past………………………and a lot have come over from cars and "lighter" trucks. Have you tried different rpm's to shift at??? Shifting faster or slower…...gear shifter??? Timing the "shift" and clutch slightly differently???? I use Amsoil MTF and she shifts just like she did when new.You're not alone here.