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New Exciter Ring, Gear Compound, and Machinist Dial indicator AZ priming its way to me as we speak. Been speak with W&F on the side ...... and going to give it a go. PLAN 1 Measure existing backlash, Pull the axles, pull the carrier, remove tone ring, press on the new one, reinstall, measure backlash close in spec/original measurement and put back togther. PLAN2 Same as plan 1 but if bearings are bad or backlash is way out - pull the bearigs, shim everything out for preload, put on diff - remeasure backlash - repeat 10 times , swear, call Bill (W&F) ..... repeat 5 times .... cry .... call Bill (W&F) ....... steady hands and finish job as above. Will update - probably sunday - doing it saturday. thx guys - might get a speedo back after this.

Mike, it's half and half. Ceramic pucks on the intermediate plate side and organic on the other. They actually engage very smooth when they are broke in. AH64ID maybe you're confusing it with an older clutch?? Here it is: http://www.southbendclutch.com/newsdd3250.pdf They are quieter with a damped intermediate plate as well. And the difference in the "code" is one includes a new input shaft assembly. Everything else is the same.

I find using a GPS unit with a speed indicator built in is a lot less work. Just Velcro it to the dash where the speedo is.

Rotella from the first oil change with a little Delo in the mix in the past year or so. CJ-4 when ever they changed over

Chevron Delo, Valvoline, Mobil Delvac 15w-40 CJ-4 and have been since 2006-2007 when it was released.

You need to get up in the lockup gears of 3rd or 4th and it should lock up. Then with the switch ON it should stall if you come to a stop. So fine a piece of highway and get up to 45-55 MPH. Then you should be able to toggle the switch and see the tach jump up in the OFF position and when you flip ON it should lock and drop RPM's. Then once its locked if you come to a stop it should stall.

That's a gooden right there. I need Barney style my self on occasions.

So a stock 47re will onyl lock in 3rd and 4th. IF you come to a stop with the lockup switch engaged, grounding out the lockup wire, then the truck should stall, provided the tranny hasn't downshifted on it's own yet. Now remember locked shifts are VERY hard on a tranny so keep that in mind. To test you tc, drive from 0-30 at low throttle and count the shifts. You should shift into 3rd around 25-30 mph. engage the lockup at 30mph if you are in 3rd and see if you rpms drop.

just installed my lockup switch. im confused on how to properly use it. my first trip around the block it wanted to stall at a stop, so i switched it to the ON position (UP), and i was back to normal. took it out on the highway and yeah i guess its working, its hard to find a good spot to really get on it or play around because so much traffic here. After playing around with it, and coming to a stop it wouldnt stall in any position on or off anymore. . so this has me really confused., truck should stall if it engaged right? when do i engage it and disengage.. .... I need a Barney style explanation on this switch. my main objective here is to understand how this TC switch works so i can find my issue.. thnx for any help

Now being that he said the dash indicator came on for the cruise, would that eliminate the clock spring? Just a funny thought here, I have had a mis adjusted brake light switch cause issues like this. The pedal was bouncing just a little down the road and it kept turning the brake lights on for just a split second. Made the cruise not work.

OMG...