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I have been running 7x.00105 DAP nozzles for the last while on the stock HX35 (mines a 12V too). It took a little tuning but it turned out decent. I'm in the process of swapping in some 5x13's though for testing as they should both flow the same. Amongst the 12 valve guys we measure injector size by there hole count/size/angle. If a place is selling them as XXhp injector but doesn't specify the details, look elsewhere. DAP is typically where I get my stuff. That being said, 145° 5x12's in either a SAC or VCO should do you well, and is enough to support 400 RWHP easy. FWIW, I have a pop tester and would be happy to help in whatever way. I'd imagine the OBDLink shows flywheel horsepower, just something to keep in mind.

Speaking for the electrically challenged here I understand why you just bought an alternator and threw it on. The advice you are getting is sound but you have to do some testing or you just end up with spare parts or new parts that are not much better than you had to start with and after trading in your core you are just stuck. This issue might be beyond your alternator but you will never know until you do some testing. You have to eliminate things to be sure of what needs to be done.

This is a long term solution I have planned for the future. You also want to go with the reinforced plastic instead. Many construction sites will use it to close out a hole so they can keep the heat in while building in the winter. Here's an example: https://goo.gl/images/k2xvr2 https://goo.gl/images/5hWwxh Many job sites will throw the stuff away after using it. Bricklayers are notorious for using it to close off their scaffolding as they lay brick and need to heat the area to allow the mortar to set.

You and me both brother... I've got a Common Rail Cummins in the back of the 96 Dodge heading to be rebuilt because of a fail injector. That gets expensive. At least the 12V and 24V rarely ever eat a piston.

You will be happy with your selection. While not 100% scientific, after a quick test drive I'm currently siding with the 5 holes.

For a 5 hole, SAC if you can spare the cash, otherwise it doesn't really matter, they'll both run great. The nozzle is the wear item, the milage on the bodies doesn't really matter. On the cores, I believe DAP has two options, either send them the cores up front. Or pay an extra $100 that they will refund you once they receive your cores. This is handy for minimal truck down time. For bodies you have two options, either used bodies with unknown miles that they meticulously inspect, or brand new bosch bodies for an extra $150.

4.5" backspacing, 0 offset

There is a never ending debate on 5 vs 7 hole injectors. If you really want 7x10 I have a set of nozzles I'd be happy to sell you after I'm done testing with them. They have 2k miles on them and are the exact same as what you linked, other than being nozzles and not the whole injector. The aforementioned neverending debate is why I'm doing this testing. I told DAP I wanted a set of each 5 and 7 hole nozzles that flow identical. And that's how I ended up with the 7x.00105's I've been running and 5x.0013's I'm in the middle of swapping (still have one left to set pop pressure on). On paper the 7 holes sound awesome, better atomization for a cleaner burn and more efficient power... Awesome! However it doesn't work like that, there are two main aspects, atomization and penetration. Atomization is great, but the greater the atomization the lower the penetration. Picture it like this. You have a garden hose on a hot summer day, and you are having a water fight with kids encircled around you. You only have a certain amount of time to hit as many kids as you can. If you have a finer spray, you can hit more kids at once, but it won't reach far enough to hit the kids on the outskirts. But if you have a jet, you can reach all the kids, but the beam it to direct and you'll end up drowning some kids while leaving others completely dry...

I like the first set up. I would mount it on the frame before the lift pump, save the oem filter for a redundant filter just before the vp. The big filters help look out for the smaller sister filter. Keep from premature clogging. Only reason I say this that the world class ocean going yachts where lives at sea are dependant on the diesel engines always protect the lift pump with primary filtration.

Few things to consider... Your a P7100 pump with no dynamic timing. Also your fuel management is based on your AFC and plat adjustments. Head design between myself and you where I'm 24V and you only a 12V engine air flow rates are different. So consider the bit of differences as well. But I don't see any reason you couldn't take the time and adjust everything to get a low smoke tune and get good power from it. Again make sure to ask for flow matching and pop testing within a percent range...

did the right on last night myself. I have a ball joint press that worked just fine after I found something to use for a receiver cup. My set had nothing deep enough. They were in pretty darn tight but came out ok. The new one went in in a quarter of the time it took to get the old one out.

Carefull when purchasing injectors, especially 5x12's. Some vendors will sell cheap marine 370's as 5x12's. They are 5x12's but are the wrong 155° spray pattern, unless you have non-stock pistons you want 145°. 5x12's will be a good match for your 62 unless you want to go all out and squeeze every last bit of power out of it. Then 5x14's will do a little better up top. With the correct tuning, you can run basically any injector. When it comes to tuning, look into the AFC stop-bolt mod. Really handy.

Here you go...

Not a problem as you found out just ask and we'll help you out...

Yes. It's fine to leave OFF. The software and tuning is disabled and the only function that remains is the boost fooler so it will not trip codes nor will it produce any issues.

Probably about 150 rpm while driving down the freeway..... Sure I guess thats technically "spinning", although slow enough that you can visually count the revolutions.

I have the older AD100 lift pump on the frame, 1/2'' lines all the way, no banjos. My filter is a Racor 30 micron 90 gph water separating filter that has the clear plastic bowl on the bottom. It's mounted before the lift pump to protect it from sediment and a swing away protection plate under the bottom of the filter. Wanted to add that the Racor has the filters specifically for the suction side of the system.

Whoops, wrong thread. With a CAD axle the front driveshaft wouldn't spin.... If it was a perfect world.... It spins.

I'd love to see this... Can you get a copy of this MSDS sheet. As for fuel additives most over the counter products are cetane boosters which is a bad thing MPG wise. This the key reason why MPG falls in the winter is the cetane value is increased in the winter time and the BTU's are reduced. 2 Cycle oil is a natural cetane reducer or a BTU increaser. As for HFRR you want a fuel score of less that 450 HFRR for optimal fuel system life. So the 2 cycle oil theory originally was started by a member here @dorkweed which started the idea I'm the one that pushed it forward. So if you got questions about 2 cycle oil usage and how it works chemically I'm sure I can fill your head with all kinds of information. Most 2 cycle oil today is mostly highly refined oil that is ashless no soft metals like zinc added. So I've got a hard time believing the 2 cycle oil being mostly kerosene... I'd still like to see. I know Supertech is produced by PennzOil. SuperTech 2 Cycle Oil. http://ilrc.ucf.edu/documents/ILRC 00000639/NCFS_639 Super Tech Universal 2 Cycle.pdf As for my injection pump its got 214k miles on it and still going strong. I've been using 2 cycle oil for over 183k miles with no impact to the fuel system, filters, injectors or injection pump. Oh try and catch me now on the MPG numbers...