Leaderboard

Well I had to do it. My wife and I are spending five days in the Asheville, North Carolina area, and a mire 70 miles away is the Chicken Man in Hickory. Curiosity got the best of me, I had to know, after years of light hearted ribbing, does the Chicken Man have feathers? Late this afternoon my wife and I had dinner with @dripley, his brother, their spouses, and his sweet mother-in-law. Good food, good conversation, and a great time. I'm happy to report not one feather was seen. Dripley and IBMobile

Well..it definitely took me more than two hours..but I got it done right, I think / hope. Instantly I noticed when I started it..it idled at exactly the same rpm, rather than bouncing around. I was excited. Drove highway to get gas, no cruise control hiccups. When I started it back up after fueling up, the rpm was bouncing again..It ran home fine with cc again..so I'm hoping the rpm at idle bounce isn't an indicator that the apps is losing control again..so I'm still a little skeptical on that point. Usually when I reset, it takes a couple days to degrade. All in all, super stoked, learned a lot, and really appreciate the help along the way. Definitely not a two hour job for a rookie, haha.

He/you know what I meant! It’s been a while since I installed mine but I don’t think they do have screens.

I just use good 3-M electrical tape that you should be able to find locally and use it on the outside of conduit like jag did

Which is why they are clean as ever, and this truck idles so smoooooooooooooth.

This is one reason I will not suggest or recommend Moog parts. Quality is gone.

ATF+4 was available back in 94 if I'm not mistaken. No I don't think it would be a good choice. Even the G56 transmission is spec"ed for ATF+4 but Mercedes calls for GL-4 lubricant.

Is everyone aware of this. By the look of mopar440cu picture, that looks like taboo. I borrowed this from another forum. Moog Safety Recall Information (1).pdf

@notlimah Probably won’t start with gas. Try some diesel ??

I’d suggest parking nose up hill overnight with a full tank of gas and seeing if the problem still persists.

I just posted, but I see that Dripley beat me. He went into more depth and provided more information than I did. Are you using an electric soldering gun? What is the wattage? The joint in the photo looks like it needs more heat. Try adding some flux and more heat to the one in the photo and see if you can get the solder to flow using the procedure below. When soldering, hold the tip of the soldering gun against the crimped terminal. The heat will transfer through the crimp into the wires. Touch the solder at a point where the terminal edge meets the wires. When the terminal and wires get hot enough, the solder will start flowing. Keep the soldering gun tip on the crimped terminal and keep adding solder as it disappears through the crimp following the wire strands up to the insulation. Watch a couple of soldering videos on You Tube and do some testing until you get it right. As far terminal ends - personally I don't like insulated terminal ends because they are too difficult to crimp properly. I do what you did, but before crimping the terminal onto the wire, I place the proper size of heat shrink with sealant over the wire and push it out of the way. I then crimp the wire into a bare terminal end as you did (except that I will crimp it correctly) and solder the joint. After the joint cools, I move the heat shrink into position and finish the job. - John

HuskyLiners

I just did a clutch, I just used a bit of spray on graphite on the splines and throwout bearing . Dry lubricant so it won't hurt the clutch discs. Probably won't stay on very long but doesn't hurt anything and provides some friction reduction over no grease.