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Looking back on the thread, Mike mentioned this a few days ago “Remember Bosch stock injectors are NOT made as a set. You could have low end of 293 bar you the high end of 327 bar. This can affect idle performance. Ihigh suggest AGAINST using stock injectors. Buy+50 HP from any good injector shop and they are balanced as a set within 2% of flow rate” I still think it’s very likely both sets of your injectors have been mismatched. I learned this the hard way over the past year or so. Had your same stall issue after I ordered and installed a matched set from the same outfit that did Mikes injectors. Pulled them out, had 2 shops pop test them and they ranged from 290 to 330 bar (both shops showed same numbers on each injector). Pulled them back out, send them back and told them specifically what I wanted (310 bar-I believe they set them up at like 308 normally) they sent them back and I had them independently tested again and they were still off-not as much but by then I was mad. Keep in mind this was a “premium” set, not their normal budget injectors. I tossed those and went with the Mach 1 from Flux bc the owners are still directly involved with building their injectors and they’re perfect. For whatever reason my 2000 model is very sensitive to matched/balanced injectors and it sounds like yours is too. This shows my truck stalling after shifted intro reverse. On a slight hill, if the initial fuel input didn’t create enough force to back it up it would just drop and stall. The pics below show the idle RPMS from 2 different tuners. Roughly 750.IMG_6135.mov IMG_6162.mov

This photo is of a typical 12 valve engine. No crossover tubes. Fuel line are connected directly to the injectors, so injectors can be shimmed. John

Hi everybody, it s ok. The truck works now..... intéressant is no cut off.... The culprits: rebuilt injectors 75hp more, and tps ( I don t understand why it worked before... electronic 😁😁, like the vp44 😓😓). Thank you very much for your great help ! ! If one Day you go at Monaco send me a mail , it s with great pleasure !

OK thank you very much for all these informations. I like to learn. Thank you. OK. Thank you very much. I like to learn. Thank you

OK. Thank you very much. The photo of the ECM connector with the 50 ways is the photo of the connector as it is on the ECM from the front, wire side, or is it the photo of the connector turned inside out? I'm talking about the first little photo on the left.

Shown below are the pinouts for the ECM. Perform continuity tests (using the ohmmeter setting) on circuits that you wish to check. Be sure there is NO POWER supplied to any circuit being tested. For example, the APPS communicates only with the ECM. You could perform continuity tests on all of the connecting wires (see bottom photo). John

For installation, 2 new holes have to be drilled. They need to align with the "channel" in the hinge. The bracket is used as a drill guide. It will fit a 3/8 drill perfect. Reuse the one long bolt in the lower hole and a shorter bolt in the upper. A piece of masking tape works good to hold the nut on an open end wrench when installing the bolts in your drilled holes.

My guess is that if you change the height of an injector on a 24 valve engine, the connection point of the crossover tube to injector will be misaligned. John

I'm going to say that a 25 year relay was the cause of all of this. Truck has been running great ever since I changed the relay

It may seem like there is no interest here because you are not getting any more responses, but I think that we are at a loss of how to fix the problem. I would focus on the above paragraph since the truck was fine before the tire change. Did you replace all six tires, or just the four on the rear? Did you replace tires and wheels, or just the tires? Did you do any other repairs at the same time? Are the wheels centered on the hubs? John

Reinforcement plates. This is how they will ship. Edges cleaned up and smoothed. Sharp edges all knocked off.

Running boards and bumper dry fit

Hello, I returned the Dodge to stock, changed the air intake sensor as well, charged the batteries fully. I restarted, the vehicle starts, but it seems to take 4 seconds to find its idle and stabilize. I drove for about 5 kilometers, it has not cut out yet. I let it reach its operating temperature. Maybe the tps has problems. I don't have any codes... at least I can't read them with my little scanners.... it's not a drbIII, which I would have liked.... too expensive for me..... https://youtube.com/shorts/kva2LAikrEY?si=mi1WerZPDY71A0AO

I went with an Eaton True Trac in the rear and a Yukon limited slip for the front axle. Both seem to be working great.

OK. So I think saturday I will put stock program the ecm to check if it works.... I dont want to loose my eyes with a chinese tester....

That sounds electrical to me. What are you seeing for line pressure on the middle test port? When i was working on my transmission this article was gold https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/general-cummins/85_transmission-transfer-case_85/fine-tuning-your-dodge-automatic-47rerh-series-46-and-early-48-series-similar-r614/