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Welp, just ponied up for another year, and I've got to say that this one of the better expenses that I have. The amount of technical knowledge, experience, and willingness to share is outstanding and needs to be supported. For those of you who use this site for information and advise (as I do) remember, it costs money to keep it up and running. Mike and his Mods aren't trying to make money, they're just trying to cover costs. For less than $10 bucks a month we can maintain this site, and continue to have access to one of, if not the best sites for our trucks. Remember, information not shared, is information lost. Mark

Big thanks to you for getting those computers back to me. Also, I messaged Mike on here this morning and he was a phone call away in no time helping me source this issue! That’s a community This is why I really enjoy this forum. In the beginning we had Dave Fritz/Dodgeram.org, now we have TDR (to some extent). Finally we have this place where all the mysteries have been solved. Don’t forget Mike as we discussed: You may perish of cancer but the forum lives forever, so you live forever!

Thank you for the wonderful comment. Truth yes it's still paying to keep the server alive and keep paying the bills. Remember Mopar1973Man.Com is the LAST PRIVATELY OWNED WEBSITE left. I'm not owned by a corporate clearing house like Cummins Forum which is owned by VerticalScope Inc. Or DieselBombers which is owned by Internet Brands. All these other websites are corporate owned groups.

Wanted to show something here. Here’s the new APPS, number on it is 133284, same as the Timbo. Even though I ordered a 131973 this is what comes now. You can buy these at any truck dealership. Here’s a pic of my relocation bracket.

I would like to introduce myself to all of you. I met Michael last July in Meridian, Idaho at a medical facility. He had a follow up appointment for his urostomy/ileostomy, while I was getting wound care treatment for my ankle. We briefly met at this place once before but had not been able to chat. On this particular July day, we had a few minutes to chat. As I learned more about Michael's life, I realized that he is an amazingly unique person with a kind heart and good old fashioned values. Upon listening to how he sacrificed on behalf of his mother's need for dialysis in the midst of dealing with his bladder cancer, I began to highly respect and admire this wonderful man. He genuinely cares for people. I knew he was amazingly unique...and I did NOT want to lose track of him. So...I asked for his phone number immediately after he was called in for his appointment. I wanted to know more about him. The crazy thing is that I was adamantly resolved to never get involved with another man at that time! However, we have NOT been apart for more than a few consecutive days since the time we met up at his house shortly after our encounter in Meridian! My interest grew even more when I learned he's a Diesel Mechanic. I was already familiar in auto mechanics, as my dad was an auto mechanic himself doing it as a hobby. I come with a small background in basic auto mechanics...my dad graciously taught me how to do a few maintenance repairs on my own car. To further expand my knowledge base, I have recently joined the Mopar1973man website as Michael's partner, another site administrator and his "soon to be" wife! Our plan is to get married this Spring! We have discussed a few exciting ideas that we would like to implement in the future. We are also working on improving this website for all of you. Be safe out there on those roads!! And...stay tuned!!

WT mod should be done in full first. I don’t have much troubleshooting experience with autos as I have the 6 spd but from what I understand a lot of issues are solved when the mod is done. At least you can rule that out.

We were right, the harness itself was wired incorrectly. IAT and ECT plugs reversed. New harness arrived and problem solved! 3 and 6 both work with correct values displayed.

@Mopar1973Man It looks like he has the updated main shaft already. I purchased several of my transmission parts from Allstate Gear online. The 5th gear nut I used was their "super nut" kit that cane in the master rebuild kit that I bought. I has to replace all 3 shafts, input shaft, counter shaft and the kit came with the full spline updated main shaft as well. My trans was trashed. The main shaft bearing in the front took a massive dump and trashed everything. Also, get a big torque wrench! As Mike mentioned, the 5th gear nut needs to be torqued to 300ft/lbs. DO NOT use a chisel and hammer and think it's good. It isnt. I post some pics of mine below. The carnage More carnage New input shaft and counter shaft New counter shaft in place, reused the small reverse idler. Case has been cleaned here also New main shaft installed, also replaced the tail housing with a cast iron piece. OEM was aluminum and had the mount holes hogged out of round. Now, the shift ring or collar that I have circled in this pic are important! I installed the ring backwards. If you look closely the ring is flat on one side and has a tapper on the other. The flat side has to go toward the large gear to the right as shown in the pic. Due to installing that ring backwards I do not have the use of 1st gear. I don't need it unless towing and I will pill it and make it right, just haven't yet. Hope all this helps!

Thank you!! We are so excited for this upcoming Spring! And yes, it will be very nice to meet you in person...may be we can travel to you!! I am also enjoying the website. And plan to assist Michael in making some changes to improve areas on the website. Thank you very much for your sentiments and well wishes! What you said is so true! We already have shared so much...and our relationship just keeps getting better and better!

Ram recommends the use of a licensed ATF+4® MS-9602 specification fluid for the NV241, NV243, NV244, NV271, and NV273 type transfer case fluid change. Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is often used in transfer cases because it handles hydraulic pressure well and works in a wide range of temperatures.

Just completed hooking up a network switch for Mark to have in his place to plug in other network stuff to CAT5 Cable. We ran a test on his old computer running 24.04 Ubuntu Linux and... Feb. 22, 2025 SpaceX / Starlink speed test... Beauty of this network. Im firewall secure. Im also behind the firewall of Starlink (CGNAT). Then hooked up IPv6 internet address system. My WiFi is separate from the cabled network so people on WiFi can't see any of my PCs (cable driven). I've had several WiFi devices hoping on from neighbors wanting to get any signal. My neighbor to the south has no internet. So her kids jump on when visiting. Cat5 cable devices - 192.168.0.xxx Guest WiFi - 192.168.10.xxx Private WiFi - 192.168.20.xxx My guest users are limited to 10Mbits down and 5Mbits up. Private WiFi is unrestricted. Then Cat5 cable devices are even faster at a full 1Gbit up or down. All device are load balanced too so no one can horde the bandwidth. My guest account is without any password and fully open to any one to use even broke down people stuck along the highway. My outdoor WiFi is 1/4 watt and transmits over 700 feet. My indoor heads are also 1/4 watt too but 2.4GHz and 5 GHz frequencies biased towards 5GHz first for speed and auto-magically backs down to 2.4GHz for range when needed. Managed Controller TP-Link SG2428 and Gateway ER605 Starlink dish and my outdoor WiFi antenna.

Congratulations

Currently I have a wif sensor in the airdog water separator. Removed the drain and put the sensor in. I ran a jumper harness from that to the engine harness plug. Like I mentioned I unplugged it at the harness side and it’s still stays on. I’m not sure if this is a problem from ACS. I did order a new apps through my work (Inland Kenworth). Williams Control 131973. I should have it by Tuesday. Hopefully it solves my P0122 issue, I will check the wiring harness I made when I relocated in on Monday to confirm is not melted or something.

That should eliminate it from drawing in any air then.

Yup it is true. Strange enough I was in full makeup when we met both times. She enjoys my artistry of my makeup and wigs which she continues to encourage me to learn more about the art. Yeah after I did give Suzanna my number it seemed like there was so many questions and so much to talk about most of our phone calls went till 2am most nights. Strange some night we still just talk till early hours. Yes it's true we plan on getting married in the spring of the year. Suzanna was amazed by what I've created with Beast. She enjoys good Cummins power. Now we both want to build into 3rd and 4th Gen lines hence why the active work on Thor to attempt to give me time to repair Beast which is nearly 500k miles now. There is a lot going on with software changes, server changes, and even things on the site. Suzanna and I are going to fix the website up and bring more newer generations to the article database. Right now I'm just cleaning up after moving servers to cut operational costs.

It is possible. I have worked on a few common rail Dodge Cummins engines. What I have found is that it can be very difficult to troubleshoot this fuel system, even with the use of the right diagnostic equipment. You may be fairly certain that a high fuel return rate is occurring, but that could be caused by a leaking PRV, a CP3 pump, one or more injectors, crossover tube / tubes not seating, etc, or even a combination of the these. It is for the above reasons that I would want to prove (which can easily be done) that there are no issues with fuel supply, first - then move on to other diagnostics if the fuel supply is good. One thing for sure..., if there is a problem with the fuel supply, then the high pressure part of the injection system cannot run right. - John

Not a problem and your welcome always here to support the Cummins family.

Give Module masters a call in Moscow Idaho. https://mopar1973man.com/vendor.htm/vendor/module-master-r8/

I had a feeling that you would go back to the first running board after you had better results with the second running board. That's not "OCD" - that's a "good decision"! - John

This is a tech article regarding those who (like me) think the oem spot for the apps is not ideal. Exposed to outside elements, heat, vibration and potential corrosion, moving it inside was most practical. Non Dodge/ midrange applications of Cummins 5.9 24V ISB’s all have their TPS/APPS inside the cab, mounted on the pedal assembly. So nothing is changing on the apps operation, just moving it. This mod does not works on trucks that are auto/use vacuum for cruise. The auto trans kickdown cable is attached to the bellcrank assembly. As with the vacuum solenoid setup too so if you can live without them then it will work. Parts needed: 699-5101 pedal assembly (2x) 6 pin Duetsch connectors kits Zip ties Grommet 6’ of 6 wire harness Tools needed: Duetsch connector terminal pliers Wire strippers Making the mount will be up to you. I can show you pictures on how I made mine but it’s just a one off. Either way you need to mount it inside. First, disconnect the 6 pin Duetsch connector from the apps, remove the bellcrank assembly from the cylinder head. Cut off the cable and discard. The oem pedal assembly will need to be removed and the oem mount has a pivot pin on the bottom that’ll twist out with some channel lock pliers. Once you mount your new pedal to the mount and it’s installed all that is needed is how to control via ecm. So a 6 wire jumper harness is needed. I would HIGHLY recommend removing and tossing the apps that comes supplied with the new pedal and install your current one in its place. I can’t guarantee its quality. If you need an apps, a Williams Control 131973 or 133284 will work perfectly (Timbo is just a repackaged WC). Available from any oem truck dealer (I.e. Kenworth or Freightliner). On your engine side of your harness you need to make a 6 pin male Duetsch connector. Ensure you new connector kits have the locks in them, some kits do not come with them for some reason. YouTube or Google can provide a video on how to use Duetsch connector pliers, they’re super easy to use. Using the hole in firewall that the original pull cable went through install a grommet to prevent rubbing and feed your harness through. If you prefer to drill a hole the same size of the connector body you’ll need a 7/8” drill bit. **It’s easier to make the harness, THEN crimp the new terminals on after feeding it through the oem firewall hole for a cleaner look.** Cut your 6 wire harness to length and crimp on the terminals, install the connector body and plug it in. Theoretically the engine doesn’t know where the apps is so it will work. Make sure you mate up each wire in its proper spot on each connector, if you mess them up a CEL will come on/non functionality of the apps. Secure the harness to various points with zip ties so it’s rigid. This provides a clean look and more room in the engine compartment for future servicing. Start the engine and test. Throttle response should be crisp since there is no cable anymore that has slack as it wore. View full Cummins article

Interesting, I found that my network is viewable directly over the Omada App. Like today, I'm down in Boise with @Tweety Bird and I started playing with my phone. Sure enough, my network is viewable from my cellphone. I'm going to do some experiments on this and see if i could bind a URL to my home server; and port forward to the world wide web, possibly. At this point, I could very well create a Private Cloud for our own use as I travel for medical reasons and be able to handle all the website needs without being home. Still wondering if I could complete a port forward say 22 and 80 out to the web. Time to get crafty.

Gotta ask where did you get the pedal assembly? Also would you be willing to write an article on how you did this?

- John

Yeah band adjust should be done every 30k with filter and fluid change. Grab a FSM is going to have the torque specs and slack

I have 110 switches on my work network that I manage. We have around 30-40 different VLANs, and we separate them by traffic type. We have data vlans, VoIP vlans, and security/camera vlans in every building in our campus network.

I've ran both dextron and ATF+4 for transfer case fluids. Beast with 495k miles I've never had any issues including summer heat in Arizona. Only had to reseal the case once.

Nice to finally "meet" you Suzanna! I've heard alot about you, Mike and have had many phone conversations where you have come up in topic. Glad to see you have both found some happiness during your medical issues. And CONGRATULATIONS on the upcoming wedding! I hope to someday make my way west to meet Mike and now you in person.

No need when no fuel is leaking out. If you can remove the banjo bolt lightly tweak the line a little and fire it up and watch the PRV top for any changes. No leakage of fuel. Oh just fun to now have a 3 chime grid heater light. I WANNA KNOW WHAT THESE CHIMES MEAN. As for what I've done today. Mark was a huge help getting the a frame out and then getting the bed cut free from the frame. You have no idea how wild it was to keep lifting the bed and watch the weight transfer and seeing the natural rake of stance return. That bed is farking heavy! Those rear spring had alot of weight.

Returning back to this topic and sharing more information. I've learned quite a bit more about my network and security. Boy can I show you all kinds of cool tricks. For example, I've managed to create a VLAN for my Mopar1973Man Guest WiFi. When you hook up to my guest account it moves from the default network and creates a new network with a totally different IP address. This hides my private network completely. Now the family here we have our own network to work together between people we can all see either other to be able to share information flawlessly. My basic network but all works so amazing. At the hub of it is the Starlink internet provider. This has been awesome for the internet speed and will handle quite a bit of network traffic. Then I've got a ER605 Gateway providing a firewall into the network here. Then my 28 port managed switch which is the brains of the network also the power supply for all PoE devices. As you can see there is 192.168.0.x, 192.168.10.x, and 192.168.20.x. The 192.168.0.x is all my hard wired stuff like PCs, cameras, etc. You must use a hard wired jack to gain access to this network. Then the 192.168.10.x is all my guest network which can't see anything but themselves in their pool but have zero access to the private network at all. Then the 192.168.20.x is all my stuff that uses WiFi like cellphones, TVs, game consoles like the Xbox.

Sorry for the late update. I was able to replace 5th gear and make it home without issue. It was a heck of a lot harder to torque that nut to spec than expected, but I got it and it seems to be holding fine for now. Thank you everyone for your help!

That thing was smoked! Should run like a top now.

If y'all would like to watch the entire rebuild of this Dana 80, my builder just got it edited and you can watch it on Facebook or YouTube. Just search Stratemann Automotive. Bring some popcorn you gonna need it.

Yes sir it was driving me crazy as well, thanks for the phone calls and your help!

Right on. I thought it was weird.

You're welcome. I think you set your toe-in a bit aggressive. You will likely wear the outside edge of the front tires and the truck won't handle as well as it should, especially going into and coming out of curves. With the Y type steering linkage, the toe-in should very slightly inward - no more than 1/16th inch. With T-type steering the recommendation is zero toe-in. It appears that you have the Y-type steering. Good job marking the jam nut positions. - John

I'm still here. I'm learning that my ostomy is a PITA. Like my post on fixing Minnie, I've learned more about the limits of my body and ostomy. I've been chasing a bad ground issue and trying to fix it by tearing apart the dash but found out it's just my battery terminals. Ok, wasted time in the cold but got it running. Beast is getting problematic being the rear main seal leaking. Thor I'm still waiting for the injector to come back soon. As for my body I'm gaining strength in my body and energy. Still my main problem is my ostomy bag being in the way of normal activities. I'm still learning how to protect and guard my ostomy completely. Yeah its rather PITA when you bend over or lean against a counter or anything where the bag is squeezed even a little you might be covered in urine. Yup. Its happened quite a few times.

I've got a sheet of metal here I can cut a full width chunk and tack weld the piece in place. Then straighten all the remaining edges and weld them down to the sheet metal. Now like get a gallon of Hurculiner and cover the host of sin on the bed bottom.

My "new" bed has a small square hole innit for a gooseneck as well. I'm going to cut a piece of bed floor out of the old one and section it into the new one. The new bed has been rhino lined so once the patch is in I will go to rhino liner and have it filled in and spray the patch area from the bottom also. That way it us sealed on both top and bottom.

I completed every aspect of the wt mod as written. That ground is soldered now.

@mace, I have performed the power steering pump and vacuum pump conversion that you brought to this site. I hope you are still perusing the site and will see this. The time and effort spent on this project (and the APPS relocate) has been very worthwhile. Much engine space has been freed up and the power steering reservoir is right where it should be for easy fluid check / fill. The reservoir is like the brake master cylinder reservoir – you can see the fluid level through the reservoir. An unexpected benefit is that this direct mount power steering pump outperforms any previous power steering pump that has been on this truck. There is no more stopping of the steering wheel when the power steering is under high demand, such as when maneuvering in tight spaces, steering from stop to stop with little forward or backward movement of the truck. I started the project by finding a location for the new power steering reservoir, which was going to be right where the APPS assembly used to be. Then I built a mounting bracket for the reservoir (shown below). The first part of the bracket assembly is designed to let the weight of the oil and reservoir rest in the V slot. In the above photo, note the welded nut where the tab on the top of the reservoir is screwed into the bracket. In the photos below, more brackets are added to fasten the unit to the engine. Below is the new location for the reservoir in the engine compartment - lots of space available for mounting with the removal of the APPS and APPS mounting assembly. I don't have any photos of the actual pump mount, but the mounting is straight forward, especially with the addition of studs instead of bolts. Much easier installation the old vacuum pump / power steering pump combination was. I didn't use a gasket - just the grey Permatex RTV gasket maker. The one thing that Mace did that I should have done (which he clearly mentioned) is to have the pump suction fitting turned down on a lathe from 22 mm to 19 mm to match the 19 mm connection on the reservoir. Because I didn't do that, I have not-so-neat connections from the pump suction to the reservoir (another reason to not take a photo down there). @Mace, thank you again for making this possible. That’s all, folks! John

I understand why you would have been concerned. Sounds like everything went well. You will know everything is fine when that engine clatters to life and there is not a pool of oil on the floor. - John

If your going to pull the 5th out why not just put a new one in while you have it apart? At least it should get you home, then to a proper rebuild. I rebuilt mine (4x4), they're not extremely hard to do, many good videos online to take you step by step.

Yesterday, I put your situation in the "911" section of the TDR, but so far no response - but, it was a weekend. Here is what I posted, "Trying to help someone out here. Fellow has a '99 2WD Dodge Cummins truck. He is 1100 miles from home and has lost 5th gear. He wants to know if he can remove 5th gear and drive home, or if anyone knows of a reliable manual transmission repair shop in the Fort Myers, Florida area. Thanks," I let you know if / when I hear anything. - John

I've done a trip from Ontario, OR to New Meadows ID was 125 mile trip in 4th gear limited to 45 MPH. I would suggesting fixing the transmission or haul it on a trailer there.

From the first list I carry all but the double ended sockets for lug nuts and the tire plug kit. From the second list I carry some SAE Sockets and wrenches, large pliers, 2' braker bar, and tire inflator. I also carry a cordless ½" impact gun, a ⅜" cordless ratchet and an OBD code reader which I forgot on my last trip and had to borrow one. I carry most of this under the back seat in short cardboard box and the rest in the 5th wheel. My best tool though is a AAA card with premier RV towing.

Hey Mike, I contacted Quadzilla Monday and they are sending me out a new PCB board and switch. I will keep you updated on how that turns out. They will send me a wiring harness if that doesn't correct things.

Here we go. There will be lot more photos and article wrote. 3rd Gen article is building.

I need both IAT and ECT sensors results. ECT is showing the 123*F on the coolant for 6 cyl but I need the IAT sensor to show what mode to start. I used to have 10 gauges on my old OBDLink module. Also had horsepower and torque calculated as gauges. MPG - IAT = 143*F and ECT = Normal Sensor 6 CYL - IAT = 26*F and ECT = 123*F 3 CYL - IAT = 13*F and ECT = Normal sensor Basically IAT sets the mode. The ECT tells if the mode should cancel at 170*F of coolant or hold the mode.

Yes sir you can. Just key on and click the switch through the different modes and report back the values seen.