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Running boards ready for dry fit. I know I have notch something for the cab mounts.

My truck's 3-4 upshift @ ~45mph with light throttle and stock 4:10 diff.

I think you could temporarialy wire in a LED lamp to the OR/BK wire from Connector #2, terminal #11 of the PCM. Wire the other side of the LED to ground. The lamp would be on all of the time after the engine is started, but it would go out when the torque converter is commanded to lock up. I don't think it would cause you any side effects and it would do what you want. John

Would I be able to run the truck up to speed first with axles removed in the rear, then with the tail end of the drive shaft removed then with the whole drive shaft removed to see if the vibration goes away when wheels aren't spinning, then when diff isn't spinning then when back half and front half of drive shaft aren't spinning? Then I could narrow down what's actually causing this

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That's cool, I like this idea!

I spent some time this morning tracing out the brake light function from the cab to the taillights. Then I found out the taillight loom I got from a 2007 will NOT work. It's a single taillight setup. Problem I figured out that there are two taillights in the wiring diagram and then started looking for the white/tan lead nope. Not there. Now I'm on hold, waiting to see if the salvage yard has a 2005 wiring loom so I can get the right wiring. The project is on hold for a bit to sort out the electrical for the taillights.

I managed to get alot done today on Thor. Everyone was pitching in between Mark and Suzanna. We temporarily rigged up the AirDog fuel system so I could move the entire truck outside. I've got a trick I'm going to show on Thor that I'm doing for a AirDog soon. Already got the straw done in the sender basket. Then pulled Beast up with the trailer and used the a-frame to unload the new bed for Thor. Then, Thor was fired up, rolled out the door, lifted the bed up, and carefully lowered the bed back on Thor. I've got a problem with the brake lights not working, so I've gotta chase that problem quickly. I'm very pleased with the bed and the tailgate. The tailgate has a few minor dents, and then the bed has a few extra holes but is in good condition small dents. I've got more projects to do to this truck like sealing the radiator (another trick I wanna try). I've got an idler pulley for the fan belt to install. Then a full oil change. Then I'll have a working truck to use when I'm busy fixing Beast. What I figured out tonight just looking over wiring diagrams and quick test of power at the 26 Fuse in the TIPM and found both terminals of the fuse to be dead without power. I've got a post over on the forum...

Glad to hear it's working right after 1k miles.

OK so looking at my math I messed up twice but somehow got close. Lol cfm for a hx 35 is listed as close to 600cfm Instead of 900cfm. And my temp was off that output calc was really helpful. It's showing closer to 450 at 30 psi. But the net change of all it is 3700 btus instead of 3000. I still think this is worth testing. One of the engineers at work made the comment that mass is mass and it will either be burned and converted to energy (win) or will be extra mass leaving and help spool the turbo ( win) and that water has a expansion rate of 1600 to 1 when it converts to steam. So curious on how this will effect spool up.

I can tell you an old member @isx did the math on cold air and hot air and there was a very very small change of amount of moles or molecules of air was in the air system even at boost. So the best is to control you turbo and airflow by timing. Always remember lower the boost better the efficiency.

Absolutely. And thats pretty much where I'm at. I know my tune is not as good as yours and i know me being an automatic is not helpful (my in park idle engine load is higher then your steady state highway engine load) My commute to work is only about 20 min thats just enough to show the oil/coolant difference on the drive in. I know it's probably a little one the retarded side for the in town driving. And like you suggested my fuel table is well under stock levels until I get deeper in the boost table. Egts are well under control for towing and what not (turbo is probably a little one the big side to tow perfectly) but I just want more out of it. The science of it all amazes me and I have a laundry list of things to try water methanol the ram air a intercooler bypass propane injection ect. I currently run a consistent 21 mpg per tank (hand calc ) on the drive to and from work. If I run to Dallas or Austin I generally get closer to 24. Towing 75hp skid steer on a trailer from Austin I got 14.

No, they shouldn't be tight. I think you are worrying about a potential problem that does not exist. Your explanation of your concern was well written, and I think accurate. The two valves that you referenced were closed, but the #5 and #2 pistons were 120° on their approach to TDC. The cam lobes were still ramping down or up (depending which valve is being referenced) so the clearance was not the set clearance (because of the ramp). BUT, the clearance would be a normal clearance. John

Congrats on finally getting her nailed down.

Success!The injector issue is over. I'm currently working on adding the articles to the website and getting error codes and even the TSB article posted up for others. As I went out today on a cold start and turn the key over and waited for the grid heater light and then crank Thor over. Fast and clean start up. Very light blue smoke noticed and settles pre quick after a couple a heating strokes on the burning fuel. P1222 Error code https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/3rd-generation/61_engine_61_61/95_obdii-error-codes/p1222-leak-detection-during-motoring-r750/?&do=getNewComment&d=4&id=750 P1223 Error Code https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/3rd-generation/61_engine_61_61/95_obdii-error-codes/p1223-leak-detection-based-on-quantity-balance-r749/?&do=getNewComment&d=4&id=749 TSB article https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/3rd-generation/tsb-articles/tsb-18-006-12-diagnostic-enhancements-for-fuel-system-r751/?&do=getNewComment&d=4&id=751

Remember there is a very wide allowance. Like exhaust is 0.015 to 0.030 or intake is 0.006 to 0.015 are conidered normal.

Incorrect. The purpose of the test is to see how much AC ripple is present FROM THE ALTERNATOR while the alternator is charging. Just make sure the grid heaters have finished post cycling and that there are no other heavy electrical loads operating. - John

All your testing are no good. You need a DVM capable of less than 2 volts AC with multiple frequencies, not just 60 hz. A household DVM will do this, which is why your test data is confusing. Look for a DVM like a Fluke or SnapOn DVMs which are very capable of multifrequencies and voltages less than 2 volts. Just look your DVM has a 200 VAC setting too large. Needs to be 2 VAC or less.

That's a interesting idea of using timing to keep the boost down. All i figured was setting the max boost defuel to a safe number and calling it good. Unfortunately my truck decided I shouldn't get it. It chose yesterday to have something go out. Not not sure what yet but something was causing it to cut out hard randomly. Today's adventure will be to track down that issue.