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Running boards ready for dry fit. I know I have notch something for the cab mounts.

My buddy traded me a first gen 6bt to do some body work for him on his truck. So several patch panels later I got a "free" engine.

I'll see if I can get a picture of mine during lunch.

There are going to be changes but looks wise similar to version 4. I've taken some time and looked over the new software which we will be going from version 4 to version 5 very soon. There will be things like light and dark themes for mobile users. This will help extend battery life for mobile users. I'm looking at changing the forums a bit to include solved markers so if you are hunting for a quick solution it will be linked at the top and take you directly to the solution. Right now 3rd party softwares are not even close to ready like Collection (aka Garage), member map, etc. At this time I'm going to drop all 3rd party and reintroduce them as they catch up. Why this push? It might a while for 3rd party apps to catch up. I want to keep the site secure and all updates on version 4 will most likely stop soon. I'm looking for bringing all the core products back online. Forums and articles of course will stay. Im bringing a high quality photo gallery for your truck photos. Then I'm going to fire up Blogs between my medical adventures that continues and my makeup artistry of Titanium. @Tweety Bird has busy working at updating terms of use and privacy policies. We are going to optimize our personal info on you and your truck so we can either contact by phone or here on the website to optimize our support for you and your truck issue. We want to provide the best we can for the subscribing members. Me personally, my focus is to continue to write 3rd Gen articles on Thor as we continue to modify Thor to be our next daily driver. Yup you heard that right. Beast is nearly 500k and will retire to be the secondary fallback vehicle and RV tow rig. Thor will be getting all fixed up and mm3 or Smarty Touch added then tuning will start there too. Focus on getting Thor near 30 MPG as Beast has done already. Stick around, ask questions, we will keep you posted.

I can tell you an old member @isx did the math on cold air and hot air and there was a very very small change of amount of moles or molecules of air was in the air system even at boost. So the best is to control you turbo and airflow by timing. Always remember lower the boost better the efficiency.

Absolutely. And thats pretty much where I'm at. I know my tune is not as good as yours and i know me being an automatic is not helpful (my in park idle engine load is higher then your steady state highway engine load) My commute to work is only about 20 min thats just enough to show the oil/coolant difference on the drive in. I know it's probably a little one the retarded side for the in town driving. And like you suggested my fuel table is well under stock levels until I get deeper in the boost table. Egts are well under control for towing and what not (turbo is probably a little one the big side to tow perfectly) but I just want more out of it. The science of it all amazes me and I have a laundry list of things to try water methanol the ram air a intercooler bypass propane injection ect. I currently run a consistent 21 mpg per tank (hand calc ) on the drive to and from work. If I run to Dallas or Austin I generally get closer to 24. Towing 75hp skid steer on a trailer from Austin I got 14.

No, they shouldn't be tight. I think you are worrying about a potential problem that does not exist. Your explanation of your concern was well written, and I think accurate. The two valves that you referenced were closed, but the #5 and #2 pistons were 120° on their approach to TDC. The cam lobes were still ramping down or up (depending which valve is being referenced) so the clearance was not the set clearance (because of the ramp). BUT, the clearance would be a normal clearance. John

Congrats on finally getting her nailed down.

Success!The injector issue is over. I'm currently working on adding the articles to the website and getting error codes and even the TSB article posted up for others. As I went out today on a cold start and turn the key over and waited for the grid heater light and then crank Thor over. Fast and clean start up. Very light blue smoke noticed and settles pre quick after a couple a heating strokes on the burning fuel. P1222 Error code https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/3rd-generation/61_engine_61_61/95_obdii-error-codes/p1222-leak-detection-during-motoring-r750/?&do=getNewComment&d=4&id=750 P1223 Error Code https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/3rd-generation/61_engine_61_61/95_obdii-error-codes/p1223-leak-detection-based-on-quantity-balance-r749/?&do=getNewComment&d=4&id=749 TSB article https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/3rd-generation/tsb-articles/tsb-18-006-12-diagnostic-enhancements-for-fuel-system-r751/?&do=getNewComment&d=4&id=751

Remember there is a very wide allowance. Like exhaust is 0.015 to 0.030 or intake is 0.006 to 0.015 are conidered normal.

We have a W or Win today. The injectors came back from @dieselautopower and were test out as a set again. I'll post up the flow rate report when I get back to the shop to grab the paper, which is a bit torn up. I'll post the flow rates. I install exactly to spec on everything for torque and process. Fired up smoked a bit of white, but very shortly cleared up and ran smooth. Yup, Diesel Auto Power did find 2 injectors with issues and been repaired again. Mark and I got the tail lights rigged up on the tail of the frame and my license plate. I took off to town for a bit of joy ride. Thor ran great. Idle is exactly 800 RPM and the fuel rail pressure settles at about 800 PSI swing from open to close with injectors. No grid heater light. No dinging bell. Easy start and been consistent. My trip to town I visited two friends with Thor and then stopped by the grocery store for a jug of milk. Each stop very easy starting and no smoke at all. Now with the bed and that huge front bumper off this truck is quick. It can climb to 80 MPH very easy without the extra 2,800 pounds of steel flat bed and bumper off. Even the Fuel Mileage rose today for the first time being its on it way up towards high 16 MPH which it never done much better than 13 to 14 MPG. Yes the over sized injectors foul the trip the computer so its off by about -2 MPG roughly.

You might try poping that linkage off (block the wheels!) And see if the transmission "tab"goes through all of the gears like it should or if the linkage is bound up. That will tell you if the transmission tab is clocked wrong or if your linkage is wrong.

I believe when you drop the valve body that shift linkage has to be undone. It might have been reinstalled incorrectly. This mine in park

Thanks....it's "tigerwood" out of Brazil....super hard and dense. 30 year ground contact (not that is will see the ground). Quick wipe with an oil and good to go! Sadly no, my painter is STILL working on getting his building inspected/approved. I think he's gonna start here in April...will keep you informed.

Sorry but that appears to be modified. I would look at another Dodge in possibly a wrecking yard or in a parking lot. Just some of the parts look wrong or welded. @IBMobile i know has a Auto and maybe get a photo of your linkage sir?

Bed wood showed up today

AC noise reduced down to .02V at batteries with ground mod done.

2 trips to town today due to working on another vehicle with 0 shift issues. 👍🏻

Good thinking on your part! - John

Well I think the old man's truck is fixed... I had a gut feeling before tearing into the trans, something less invasive should be attempted first, after some more reading about the 47re online, and noting some "weird" issues caused by the output speed sensor, we removed the OSS and found this. ,(see picture) Installed a new speed sensor and he took it for a test drive, got it up to operating temperature and drove 30 miles round trip with NO issues, and most important,no random kicking out of overdrive. Which before you couldn't go 5 miles without it happening.

Oh ill find it for sure. I've got the gift of gab. I can always talk to some one and get it.

So the last run i was getting P0301 code for misfire cylinder 1 which you could hear clearly. Not to mention it was my repaired terminal injector. Back out all 6 injectors came out again and I got @dieselautopower Lenny is going to bench test them again. See if we can get Thor to run right without all the grid heater chimes. Refused to hold prime too. im going to call around and find the answers to the grid heater chimes and what they mean. Im going to find it and be the first website with the info. No more grid heater might means injector replacement but understand the difference in chime count.

Just a heads up to everyone. We will be updating the website to Invision Community 5 this week. There will be a few changes to the layout and appearance. The website will have additional and new features. We are excited to implement these changes and to make modifications to better serve all of our website users. More developments to come... Be safe and stay tuned!

Just read it, and thanks for the diagram. So what's the best way to test this, just start unplugging these connectors, or use a scope? One more thing: I've had the ABS light on for a while, and one time I went to the dealer (to check the ABS code, and the tech said their DRB3 tool couldn't communicate with the module. Unplugging the ABS connector doesn't make the gauges come back or no bus go away though. I lose some gauges right away, but the others are delayed by about 5 seconds. That, to me seems like component failure in the PCM. The manual does say if the resistance of the PCM ground is less than 10 ohms, replace the PCM. Mine tested at 0.1 ohms. I'm doing the W/T ground mod anyway, but it seems like it may be too late. Maybe alternator noise killed the VP44 and the PCM? It was 50 mV when I checked.

Looks like a good little shift kit. Pay attention to the drill locations.

So at this point i'm thinking we should do the band adjustments and a solenoid upgrade. What do y'all think about this kit. https://www.oregonperformancetransmission.com/product/OPT-A518-A618-EL.html also want opinions on maybe doing a shift kit too? https://superiortransmission.com/product/superior-k500-618-l/

You guys!...., that piston is not in backwards - that cylinder is only supposed to be used when backing up! - John

This is a tech article regarding those who (like me) think the oem spot for the apps is not ideal. Exposed to outside elements, heat, vibration and potential corrosion, moving it inside was most practical. Non Dodge/ midrange applications of Cummins 5.9 24V ISB’s all have their TPS/APPS inside the cab, mounted on the pedal assembly. So nothing is changing on the apps operation, just moving it. This mod does not works on trucks that are auto/use vacuum for cruise. The auto trans kickdown cable is attached to the bellcrank assembly. As with the vacuum solenoid setup too so if you can live without them then it will work. Parts needed: 699-5101 pedal assembly (2x) 6 pin Duetsch connectors kits Zip ties Grommet 6’ of 6 wire harness Tools needed: Duetsch connector terminal pliers Wire strippers Making the mount will be up to you. I can show you pictures on how I made mine but it’s just a one off. Either way you need to mount it inside. First, disconnect the 6 pin Duetsch connector from the apps, remove the bellcrank assembly from the cylinder head. Cut off the cable and discard. The oem pedal assembly will need to be removed and the oem mount has a pivot pin on the bottom that’ll twist out with some channel lock pliers. Once you mount your new pedal to the mount and it’s installed all that is needed is how to control via ecm. So a 6 wire jumper harness is needed. I would HIGHLY recommend removing and tossing the apps that comes supplied with the new pedal and install your current one in its place. I can’t guarantee its quality. If you need an apps, a Williams Control 131973 or 133284 will work perfectly (Timbo is just a repackaged WC). Available from any oem truck dealer (I.e. Kenworth or Freightliner). On your engine side of your harness you need to make a 6 pin male Duetsch connector. Ensure you new connector kits have the locks in them, some kits do not come with them for some reason. YouTube or Google can provide a video on how to use Duetsch connector pliers, they’re super easy to use. Using the hole in firewall that the original pull cable went through install a grommet to prevent rubbing and feed your harness through. If you prefer to drill a hole the same size of the connector body you’ll need a 7/8” drill bit. **It’s easier to make the harness, THEN crimp the new terminals on after feeding it through the oem firewall hole for a cleaner look.** Cut your 6 wire harness to length and crimp on the terminals, install the connector body and plug it in. Theoretically the engine doesn’t know where the apps is so it will work. Make sure you mate up each wire in its proper spot on each connector, if you mess them up a CEL will come on/non functionality of the apps. Secure the harness to various points with zip ties so it’s rigid. This provides a clean look and more room in the engine compartment for future servicing. Start the engine and test. Throttle response should be crisp since there is no cable anymore that has slack as it wore. View full Cummins article

Incorrect. The purpose of the test is to see how much AC ripple is present FROM THE ALTERNATOR while the alternator is charging. Just make sure the grid heaters have finished post cycling and that there are no other heavy electrical loads operating. - John

All your testing are no good. You need a DVM capable of less than 2 volts AC with multiple frequencies, not just 60 hz. A household DVM will do this, which is why your test data is confusing. Look for a DVM like a Fluke or SnapOn DVMs which are very capable of multifrequencies and voltages less than 2 volts. Just look your DVM has a 200 VAC setting too large. Needs to be 2 VAC or less.

Just a followup. Jim's Drive Train Specialties finished the repair on my truck on two days ago. Jim's crew installed a Dana 80 differential overhaul kit which included axle shaft bearings, pinion bearing and pinion seal. He said that visually the ring and pinion gear looked to be in very good condition. However, after setting up the gears and checking the pattern, he said the pattern was where in should be, but there was some wear on the ring gear. He said that it would not be a problem, but it will be noisy - just not as noisy as it was before the repair. It turned out not to be noisy at all - quiet under all operating speeds on the 150 mile trip home. I am very pleased with the service from Jim's Drive Train Specialties. If anyone is needing drive train or axle work done in the Boise, Idaho area, I highly recommend these folks. - John