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Hey everyone, I’m excited to announce that I’ve officially taken on the role of Gallery Moderator here at Mopar1973Man! I’ll be working to keep the photo gallery fresh and active by featuring member trucks from all generations! To kick things off, we’re starting a Truck of the Month (TOTM) photo contest! 📸 How to Enter:Post ONE photo of your truck in this thread. All generations are welcome. One submission per member—please do not post multiple photos. Submissions are open now and will close at 11:59PM on 6/30/2025 from the time of this post. 🏆 What You Win:The winner will have their truck featured on the front page of the Mopar1973Man Gallery starting July 1st, 2025. 👥 Not a Member Yet?Join the community! It’s a great place to share your build, ask questions, and learn from fellow diesel/truck enthusiasts. Let’s see those builds—good luck!

I spent a good part of the day trying to recover from a loss of search engine ranking. Yeah, I have been super busy dealing with insurance agents and people coming and going. Now things are settling down, I jumped back into the website more so. On to the website stuff. My biggest hit was a problem called Content Layout Shift, or CLS for short. We had most of the mobile phone pages were as high as 0.44, which is a huge fail. Now to see this for me I have to logoff and view from a guest level. Yeah this started to explain the problem why the search engine is dropping search results we are falling out of the first place. Now to fix this problem, being I have a dynamic webpage. Mopar1973Man.Com will allow you on a desktop to pull the window frame smaller width-wise and the webpage will automagically change from desktop, to tablet, then to mobile format screen. Basically, we need to make sure that frames for Google Ads are pre-laid out, in other words, reserve space on the screen for the ad to be placed without skewing any page text or graphics up or down. Inside the backend of the website, I have a way to add CSS scripts to the theme so I can alter the way information is displayed. Here is my Custom CSS /* GOOGLE AD CODE FOR RESPONSIVE ADS */ #ipsLayout__main .adsbygoogle { width: 320px; height: 300px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; } @media (min-width:500px) { #ipsLayout__main .adsbygoogle { width: 480px; height: 300px; } } @media (min-width:800px) { #ipsLayout__main .adsbygoogle { width: 780px; height: 300px; } } @media (min-width:1050px) { #ipsLayout__main .adsbygoogle { width: 1040px; height: 300px; } }Now you have to go back over your Google Adsense code to add a bit of custom code around the Google Adsense code. <div id="ipsLayout__main" class="adsbygoogle"> <script async src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-0000000000000000" crossorigin="anonymous"></script> <!-- Header Ad --> <ins class="adsbygoogle" style="display:block" data-ad-client="ca-pub-0000000000000000" data-ad-slot="0000000000" data-ad-format="auto" data-full-width-responsive="true"></ins> <script> (adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script> </div>Here is how the magic works. The custom CSS script creates a container on the webpage. I'm more worried about the height pixel more so than the width. It's the vertical shift of information on the page that is where the issue of CLS comes into play. The CSS script checks the screen size (window) and then, if the window size is at the "min-width" value, then the reserved space is width and height values to the right on the same line. This keeps the layout from moving as the ad loads from Google. The <div> tags in the HTML code of Google AdSense this is what create this container in the code. The results of the code change below. The Google side panel is on the right showing the CLS value of a few random pages.

I appreciate the phone call as well. Good to chat with someone that actually knows what they're talking about! I hope to update this next week with a solution! This has been an ongoing thing for years now!

OK sorry its so late of a reply but we figured it out the pre filters on these trucks has a check valve in it ( for some reason) this particular mopar filter had the check valve too far down in the filter "core" ( when the filter is properly installed a push rod touches the filter body and holds open the check valve) this caused the truck to starve for fuel ( not to mention the air leak at the front filter) i have no clue how this guy made it to work but it explains why we couldn't get a prime afterwards! Thank yall for your help

Progress

Tail light buckets

Pulled the computer and realized I forgot to get the mileage from the dash. Would it be safe to hook the batteries back up and to get the mileage without the computer installed?

Ok, I found the ACS website and should get the ecm pulled today and hopefully in the mail tomorrow.

The ECM is the computer bolted to the driver side of the block, correct?

I have not experienced your situation, but from what I have read from related past postings on this site, you are in need of a rebuilt ECM. The ECM basically will not boot up, or won't finish booting up, so no engine start. John

Don't have any answers, just waiting to see what the APPS reset offers. It will be interesting to see if the Quadzilla is the culprit. John

Good to know. I’ll readjust it tomorrow.

I purchased the Standard Motor Products vacuum pump - not sure about the quality. While performing these modifications, I also replaced my original vacuum operated exhaust brake (PacBrake) with an in-line PacBrake PRXB for better performance at low engine rpm. It uses an air cylinder, so the only vacuum load I have now is HVAC and the CAD unit on the front axle. The old vacuum operated exhaust brake served me well - 70,000 miles on my old '99 truck and an additional 393,000 miles on my current '02 truck. It will begin a new life on a site member's 2002 truck next summer. Is the Dorman vacuum pump any quieter? What brand was you original vacuum pump. - John

My new Mustang has spoiled me with its heated seats but unfortunately I can’t drive it in the snow. I found this universal seat heater at work and decided to give it a try. It was pretty easy to install as the factory covers kind of snap on. I didn’t even remove the top cover, just opened the bottom and had enough room to slide it up inside. There was plenty of space on the switch panel for the new switch as well. It works great, I put it on high and it heats up quickly. I usually drop it down to low after a bit though. It costs about $70 and took less than an hour to install.

It’s a two wire hook up, grounded it on the floor by the seat and ran the power wire to my extra fuse block under the hood. I wanted to hook it to a switched power source so I could leave it on and it would warm up when I used my remote start. I need to clean up my under dash wiring though, got some fuse taps and such and don’t even remember what they are for. It’s on my expanding list of things to do to my truck next year.

Greetings! I know this has been discussed several times here - I have read all that I can find, but didn't find the answer to my question. My ball joints are worn out, and I would like to convert to a T steering setup. I know plenty of guys have said their Y steering is just fine if setup properly with no lift or big/wide tires. I have a lift and big/wide tires. According to what I have read, the newer style T setup will bolt on, but the taper is different in the knuckles and the pitman arm. I have read there is an HD T setup for 98-99 trucks that will bolt in and have the correct taper, but I cannot find a complete setup like has been mentioned here before. Does anyone know what the taper is if I want to ream the holes? What are the options here? I don't want to spend Synergy or Apex money - just stock style parts. The truck came with an upgraded track bar and mount, so that's not necessary. Is the steering gearbox brace worth the money? Thanks.

I agree, the concept seems sound. If the added bearing is centered and well anchored, then it should be beneficial. It seems like you may have the equipment and the skills to do that. Let us know how it turns out if you decide to make the modification. - John

Pulled the truck into the garage to replace some lights. When I tried to start it the WTS light was flashing and the truck would only crank and not fire. I tried pulling codes and got nothing. I disconnected the batteries for a few minutes and nothing changed. I unplugged the Quadzilla and the WTS light functioned as normal. The truck started right up but instantly idled at 1200rpm and then went into 3cyl idle mode. I checked my idle control switch and it’s in the off position. My throttle is also unresponsive(Timbo). Thanks to my low stall converter I was able to get the truck out of the garage and back into its parking spot. When I parked it the idle dropped to 900rpm and still no response from pedal. I assume I need to do an apps reset due to disconnecting the batteries. Could the quad really be the cause of all this? I plan on doing the reset tomorrow and completely unplug the quad just to see if it runs stock.

I went out and completely disconnected the Quad, and did the apps reset. Truck is back to flashing WTS light even with no Quad and still does the crank no fire. I feel as though I’m looking at an ECM rebuild? I did check the little bit of live data I get with my scanner and it showed TPS at 93% while not running obviously.