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Tractorman
Yearly Subscription7Points1,529Posts -
PilotHouse2500
Yearly Subscription3Points438Posts -
Mace
Monthly Subscription3Points67Posts -
Sycostang67
Monthly Subscription2Points614Posts
Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/03/2025 in all areas
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2 points@Tractorman Those o-rings are square cut and you would need to order from Cummins for replacement. Might be a good idea.2 points
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2 pointsOn my truck the tee at the back of the head started to leak fuel about 15,000 miles ago (at 390,000 miles). At the time I had the transmission out while doing a clutch job and I noticed the leak. The connections were loose, so I just tightened the them from below. They have never leaked since. A leaking tee fitting (even if it's only leaking air) can cause long cranking times, but it will not affect fuel pressure after the engine is running - so, not likely to be your problem. I haven't tried accessing the tee fitting from the top of the engine. I would probably remove the valve cover and use a mirror to inspect the connections and then blindly reach around the back of the head to tighten them. John2 points
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2 pointsYup after all the years and miles driven I've had a bad speaker on the passenger side. @Tweety Bird said, "Get this fixed! Time to get new speakers in Beast!" @Tweety Bird and I went to a stereo shop in Lewiston ID to look at speakers and prices. Great quality is really pricey say like $350 for a pair of speakers that really sound rich in frequency. Being budget mined I jumped over to Amazon and found. Kicker Dodge Ram Truck 1994-2011 Speaker Bundle - CS 6x9 coaxial Speakers, and CS 5.25" coaxial Speakers. Yeah Dodge and there strange wiring schemes. I'll list out the positive and negative wiring for each speaker. You can see I cut the factory OEM speaker plug off and wired in the new blade style terminals. Be aware of the polarity of each wire and speaker lug. In this set, the Kicker makes the ground with a black strip, and the positive lug is marked red. Left Front + Dark / Green Left Front - Brown / Red Right Front + Violet Right Front - Dark Blue / Red Left Rear + Brown / Yellow Left Rear - Brown / Light Blue Right Rear + Dark Blue / Orange Right Rear - Dark Blue / White
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Hey Gang, Great News! @Tweety Bird and I just got married yesterday! (November 25th, 2025) We both opted to get the legal stuff done now so we can work as a team. Our full ceremony will be July 2026. I have to say, "We had to go through our 'Hell' to find 'Heaven' together." Our actual ceremony will be at 'Heaven Gate' in the Seven Devils' Mountain Range in July, hopefully the road will be passable by then. Suzanna and I met in a waiting room in the Portico West building in Meridian, Idaho. Suzanna was dealing with a surgical wound that was being stubborn to heal. I was dealing with my ostomy fitting and setup. The magic was that we met once, and I happened to change my appointments to 2 weeks earlier and wound up meeting Suzanna again on my second appointment. This is what we consider our anniversary date (July 25, 2024), which is rather strange, we got married on November 25th of 2025.1 point
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Congrats, may you both have many years of harmony together as you rebuild life the way you prefer it to be. Stay Strong.1 point
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1 pointMeh, while my hours available in the shop will decrease, the nice bump in pay makes it worth it. Ill just not be able to putz as much as I have been. All in all it was a good "bad" thing.1 point
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1 pointThe tech is probably referring to the 14 psi overflow valve in the VP44 injection pump. This pressure control valve is very reliable and I am almost certain it is not your problem. People have replaced this valve because of not understanding how the fuel system works, and then found after replacement, their symptoms didn't change. Even if the overflow valve failed (as in opening at a lower pressure), it would have little or no effect on lift pump pressure. All fuel that enters the VP44 must pass through in internal fixed displacement vane pump. This pump is regulated at 100 - 300 psi depending on engine rpm and engine load. Because the internal vane pump is fixed displacement, additional fuel cannot be forced through it regardless of lift pump pressure. Both Airdog and FASS lift pumps use a ball and spring check valve to regulate fuel pressure by recirculating any fuel that is not being used by the injectors and the VP44 cooling system. If the lift pumps are high volume pumps (which yours probably is), then a lot of fuel has to recirculate, in fact more fuel recirculates than gets used. The pressure control valves on these lift pumps are usually not of high quality and the ball and seat can take a beating, which can cause symptoms that you are experiencing. I am surprised that the Tech didn't mention this. I would be looking at two possibilities for low / erratic lift pump pressure. Check the condition of the ball, spring, and seat in the lift pump. Check for any restriction / leaks in the low pressure fuel supply. Pay special attention to the suction fuel lines from inside the fuel tank to the lift pump. Many people that have observed erratic lift pump pressure have stretched the spring in the lift pump's pressure regulating valve for a bit more tension. For some it gave desired results. John1 point
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1 pointI believe you're experiencing a suction side air leak. Double-check the suction line side fittings, make sure they are snug and clean in the fittings. Let me know what type of hardware you're using. The other part could be that you have a return line leak? Like, possibly a crossover o-ring issue or maybe injector o-ting. Sounds weird, but I've done a head gasket after the head came back, cleaned the baked injector o-rings would weep air in, allowing the system to drain, making a hard start. I've see nthis with crossover tube o-rings as well. Make sure to double-check the return tee in the rear of the engine; it might be weeping air into the system while parked.1 point
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1 pointTJ at 1badvp44 does good work. I had him write me a street tune just before my quad and ecm committed suicide. The truck ran much better than with any tune I had written.1 point
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1 pointIt’s time to “spring” into action! 8 leaf 4000 lb pack 2 leaf 1150 lb overloads New shackles (All from Rockauto) I used 4” blocks from ProForm Fabrication (they’re also tapered to get the pinion angle straight too). I didn’t want the *** end to sit up super duper high so to compensate for the thicker pack I used slightly shorter blocks (my oem blocks are 4.5” tall). Old leaf pack is 2” thick and the new ones are 3-9/16“. The bolt by the fuel tank is not really an issue. Just cut it off flush with the hanger and you can drive it all the way in without hitting the tank. You can fish it out with a magnet and then put the new bolt in from the outside. I used locally made 5/8” ubolts and my old Barnes4wd top plates to keep the flip. For the eyelets I used 5/8”x 5” fine thread bolts with stover nuts. Removed the old bump stops since they do nothing now. My truck is a 2001, so it’s time for new springs. I can’t use airbags because unless it’s the c&c kit my gooseneck hitch interferes with the mounting plates. Also the c&c kit sits on the oem block pedestals and I don’t have those anymore now. Next up: Rebuilt NV5600 & clutch from LRG. Enjoy!
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1 pointSame speakers I put in my truck three years ago. They sound all right. My son says I should put a small base thumper under the seat so that I can "feel the music". Just what I need to go deaf faster.1 point
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1 pointI have the 6 spd so I’m not changing anything that way. I’m buying a new 3 axle toyhauler that’s about 44’ long and 16k lbs. I’m gonna buy some extended Synergy rear sway bar links and the Timbrens as well just to make it as bullet proof as possible. I actually ended up reusing the oem blocks so I could use Timbrens, the taper is too excessive and no matter how you install it the pinion angle is too far off. That’s a mistake on my end I though it would correct this. The oem blocks made everything perfect again. Most likely crack the frame but the springs should be fine :)1 point
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1 pointHave you had a chance to tow something yet? Or are you waiting to do the trans first? A few years ago I took off my rear sway bar. To soften the suspension a bit. With my 6,000lbs travel trailer it was fine. A year a go we picked up an 8,500 dry fifth wheel. Climbing the grapevine with a little wind was not fun. Had to cruise at 35-40 mph. Not saying I could have kept going at 55 mph+ with the rear sway bar but I’m sure it definitely would have helped stabilize the load. A couple months ago I replaced the end links and bushings on both front and rear. I do have Timbrens on as well back when I took the rear bar off. . Just wondering if I need to replace my rear springs and bushings to eventually. Truck has 298,000 miles on the clock. You know just barely broke in. 😎1 point
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1 pointHere is the link to one of the big tuning post on this forum dont let it overwhelm you. https://mopar1973man.com/forums/topic/12002-quadzilla-v2-custom-tunes/ i wouldn't get too craxy with Timing until you get a set of headstuds copy your current tune in the format provided on page 1 and we will get you tuned up !1 point
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I have a dash cam in the truck but I don’t have it up right now, I can’t remember why. The truck sat so long with the ecm dead I forgot about it. The one I have in the mustang is pretty nice though, it’s small and hides behind the mirror. I also found a harness that plugs into the wiring for the rear view mirror so I didn’t have to run any wires through the car.1 point
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Timbo is a repackaged Williams Control. WC 131973/133284 is what they actually are.1 point
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You and me both. No fun, and I could have easily never seen it. I'm guessing this is the culprit behind the two fuel pumps that the PO had put in. I'm wondering how something like this could be found if it hadn't caught my eye?1 point
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A poor connection at Pin #7 would absolutely match your symptoms, as it is the 12 volt power supply from the fuel pump relay. Keep us posted - hoping you will never experience the issue again. John1 point
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If you opt for a new connector then you might ask @Auto Computer Specialist for a pigtail. There are some out the but watch the price on them.1 point
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This is great news! Your perseverance has paid off. I think you have found the problem. And you did it without replacing a bunch of parts. Congratulations! Good job with repairing that connector. John1 point
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A few days ago I disconnected the harness connection to the VP44 to clean the silicon based dielectric grease and redo it with Motocraft XG-12, which I read was more appropriate for harness connections. I noticed one of the female connectors was sprung more than the others, and appeared to have some corrosion. I sprayed the connectors with Deoxit D5 and ran a brush for cleaning paint guns that was a good fit through them. I then sharpened a pick to be able to get in and pry the sprung connector back together and pushed some 30ga bare wire down into the slight gap between the OD of that connector and the plastic, which held it in place pretty well. Put it all back together. Two short test drives and one longer one today on the highway, getting on it pretty good, one time floored, and it didn't miss at all. Looks like that connector may well have been it the whole time. Sure hope so.... Before pic:
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I've got to move my rear camera to the rear bumper very soon. I love the fact that high beams mean nothing now because it's not a mirror but a camera screen. With my unit being WiFi camera, I'm going to look into the WiFi handshaking with my network and possibly download camera footage. Dreaming at this point but give me a bit of time I might be able to pull it off. I'm really hoping!1 point
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I have the Wolfbox G900 Pro and I run split screen with the front and rear cameras at the same time. It works great! I even have footage of a bull moose running in front of my RAM during this last Elk hunting season.1 point
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Nice dash cam. I have a dash cam in all of my vehicles, not as nice as yours but it's cheap additional accident insurance for when the other driver says, "it's not my fault". Case in point when a truck pulling a trailer ran the trailer into my right front fender. He was giving me a song and dance about it until I said " do you see that camera in the windshield? It's recording everything". He then said, "I guess you got me". His insurance company was giving me a bad time about paying the claim. I told them to grab a box of popcorn and watch the video on You Tube. They paid up. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5mTHYzV5IT81 point
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I think the wires that you are referring to are for the fuel heater and water-in-fuel sensor. You may set a code if they are disconnected, but I don't think it will affect driveability. I think you are on track with verifying good electrical connections between the battery, the ECM, and the PSG on the VP44. "Volt Drop" + "Injection Pump Battery Voltage" seems to equal 14.00 volts, give or take a couple of hundredths on your graph of over 800 reading covering a 10 minute span. On some readings where the voltage is low (10.9 for example) adding the "Volt Drop" doesn't bring it to the 14.00 volt value. This could be because there is a split second recording delay from one reading to the other. I have a scanner, but I don't know if it will display voltage at the injection pump. I will give it a test tomorrow. John1 point
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APPS (accelerator pedal position sensor) on the Cummins. When the APPS becomes output signal becomes intermittent as it ages, a specific code is usually set and the engine typically goes right to idle - referred to as "dead pedal". The dead pedal lasts for about 10 seconds or so, then goes back to normal until the next event. The photo below is from one of your earlier posts. I would be specifically concerned with re-checking the voltage to the injection pump. Voltage falling down to 9.5 volts could easily cause intermittent operation of the fuel solenoid valve in the injection pump resulting in random injection events not happening. This does match your symptoms. John John
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Funny part of this marriage. I had to have the cancer and the ostomy bag to meet Suzanna, my wife. If I'd been a healthy person, I'd never have met her. She enjoys the thought that I dealt with my depression with makeup artistry and cosplay. This helped me deal with the health crisis (bladder cancer and chemo treatments) I was dealing with at the time. I started making up artistry back in 2022 as a fun thing for the weekend. Now it's part of my daily dress code. Suzanna has enjoyed the interactions I get everywhere I go, hence why the photo above shows us both enjoying the makeup work, and will continue to grow together with our own art. The makeup artistry is what captured her eye that day, and why we are together. Being we both went through our own hell, we plan on holding the celebration next year in late spring or early summer. Hopefully, by July 25th 2026, we can be on top of Heaven's Gate, where you have to drive through Seven Devils Mountain to reach this mountain top.1 point
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1 point4 4-inch exhaust will handle 600 HP easily. Mufflers of most brands of exhaust setups are simple pass-through muffler styles, non-restrictive. I just jumped for the diamond eye 4" exhaust system because the high-priced kits, the pipe might hold up being stainless, but the hardware, hangers, and the clamps are all steel and will fail anyways. (Salt country). Diamond Eye is aluminum coated steel pipe, and mine held up just fine for the pipe, but the clamps failed, and the tail pipe fell out.1 point
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1 pointThe factory heat exchanger not only cools transmission fluid, but all so heats the fluid to operating temperature in cold weather. With the average winter low temperature of 9°F in your area it would be prudent to retain the heat exchanger for winter drivability.1 point
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1 pointHype... Typically when the P0121, P0122 or P0123 code is present with the "Dead Pedal" its going to be APPS sensor issue. The bast way to test is to have a live data tool and data log both Engine Load and the APPS sensor together in graph form. The engine load reports the amount of fuel given to the engine. So if the APPS and the Engine Load drop together its a APPS sensor issue. If the APPS sensor stays high and the engine load drops then it could be an ECM issue.1 point
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MAP (Manifold Atmosphere Pressure) SensorThe MAP sensor is installed into the rear of the intake manifold. The MAP sensor reacts to air pressure changes in the intake manifold. It provides an input voltage to the Engine Control Module (ECM). As pressure changes, MAP sensor voltage will change. The change in MAP sensor voltage results in a different input voltage to the ECM. The ECM uses this input, along with inputs from other sensors to provide fuel timing, fuel control and engine protection. Engine protection is used to derate (drop power off) the engine if turbocharger pressure becomes to high. Mopar's Notes: This cleaning procedure will not correct any error codes that are being produced by the MAP sensor (P0237 or P0238). If you got a fueling enhancement box of any type hooked to the MAP sensor lines it could be a internal fault of the boost fooler circuit causing the MAP sensor error code. If the truck is stock then the MAP sensor requires replacement. This cleaning process is normally for Dodge Cummins that have exhaust brakes installed. But there has be a few reports of MAP sensors being dirty without a exhaust brake install. There is no maintenance schedule for cleaning the MAP sensor. If you do have a exhaust brake I suggest every oil change you clean the sensor. I clean mine every 6,000 miles and do a oil change at the same time. Ok. first thing when need to know is where is the MAP sensor located at. It's on the driver side of the engine just passed the fuel filter. Now you need the proper tool to remove it. You need a 1-1/16" deep well socket to remove the MAP sensor. Also your going to need a 3" extension. Preferably 1/2" drive. Mopar's Notes: It could also be a 1 1/4" socket too. Here is what the sensor looks like when its dirty. Now all you got to do is give it a few sprays of carburetor cleaner to remove the oily coating. Now that they are cleaned. Just reverse the process to install them back in the manifold.1 point
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0 points"Tanks" will live under the bed between the running boards and rear wheels. I approved the color so he can start final sand and get it on parts. I'm guessing 1 to 1.5 years yet till on the road. Life has changed, Cummins is exiting the hydrogen markets and my division was nuked, as was my job. I did find a new job already, but my hours won't be as kind to personal time, so things will get slower.0 points
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0 pointsI'm sorry, gang, I've been randomly missing in action from time to time, but with everything going on, it's tough to be at home for long periods, then when I'm home, to get wrapped up with the dirt work all this last summer. Winter weather is coming, I need a 4wd truck! With winter setting in, @Tweety Bird and I will be home more! Cancer-wise wise I'm doing well, 1.5 years clean of cancer. Beast made the 500k milestoneNow Beast is going to require some work to get fixed up, being I've abused the old truck for a while, being short on funds during my cancer treatment. I've got a list of things I need to do, and I want to get busy with a little bit of funds to fix Beast. The crazy part is that this week is going to be off and on rain showers. I got to work in the rain. Still to this day, I do not have a shop and no dry space yet. This is another project task. Personally, @Tweety Bird and I are attempting to unpack the garage of @Tweety Bird stuff so I can have dry space to work on the vehicles to keep them running. Front axle wheel joints New tires (245/ 75 R16) Fix the hydraulic leak (power steering) Fix my transmission temp gauge Properly install my dash camera Install my upgraded high idle kit from DAP Front and rear main seals of the crank Replace the dash top and dash bezel Repair my driver's seat edge (torn) Replace the rear bumper (crushed on the passenger side) Repair the body damage on the rear passenger side (dummy me hit a dumpster backing up one night) Fisher V-Plow snow blade for Beast (since the landslide destroyed my ATV and plow blade)0 points
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