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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/07/2025 in all areas

  1. As requested by MoparMan this is an article detailing the electric vacuum pump conversion: Since I’ve deleted my oem vacuum & power steering pump(s) and gone to a midrange setup for steering assist I still need vacuum to activate the hvac controls and my exhaust brake. Trucks with vacuum controlled cruise should work but this modification applies to just my setup. My cruise is ecm controlled and I have the non cad front axle so my vacuum demand is limited. On SD applications they use it lock the front hubs & hvac on their trucks so I feel it should work on any of our vehicles. I used the same pump from the SuperDuty and 3rd gen Rams (same pump). I picked it up from Rockauto with a mating connector. I drilled 3 holes and mounted it an easy to service spot on the fuse box cover. Plumbing wise it goes to a control manifold for the EB and tees off into the oem vacuum line on the firewall. I don’t use a reservoir like Ford but you could run one if you desire it. Power wise it gets fused voltage from the PDC power stud which also is the relay supply power (pin 30). The relay trigger is controlled by a fuse tap in one of the pdc fuses that is hot with key on (so it doesn’t run all the time). The pump has an internal governor so when it reaches its vacuum threshold it shuts off. If it’s always running then you most likely have a leak you need to repair first.
  2. 3 points
    I thought I’d share my recent drivetrain upgrade I put in my 01’ 3500 (SRW converted) 6 spd. On transfer case side of things swapping a NP271D in is pretty common for a 2nd gen. I wanted to take it one step farther. It took some trial & error finding what parts will work and what doesn’t. It’s pretty much a modified Ford design. I found a used 08’ NP271D and rebuilt/modified it. Eliminated the leaky Dodge slip yoke tail housing and utilized the rear fixed flange yoke setup from a 06’ NP273F. I bought the rebuild kit, some updated parts & specific seal installers from TorqueKing4x4. I also installed the Ford style companion flange on my Dana 80 along with a new washer, nut & seal. ***Snap-On # M3586 is the correct thin walled 1-7/8” socket if you ever need it.*** Initially had a 5” aluminum driveshaft but the Sonax slip yoke kit is quite expensive so I had a 4” steel one locally made and upsized it to 1480 greasable ujoints (OEM are 1410). T/case fits perfectly. There’s 1/8” of clearance at the frame and no contact at bottom of cab. The 2nd Gen linkage rod (11”) is a tad short so even set at max travel the shifter will be off just a touch. So I replaced it with the 3rd Gen 16” one and now it’s perfect. I don’t have the cad Dana 60 so the momentary ball switch from the old NP241D-HD just swaps over to make the 4wd light come on. I have the LRG trans crossmember so I didn’t have any interference with the front driveshaft. APPS delete ✅ Midrange power steering ✅ Electric vacuum pump ✅ Next project: Dynatrac high pinion 35 spline Dana 60 3.73 gears with an electric locker… Enjoy!
  3. Mike if you lived closer I would kiss you. I had to remove the t-case boot to replace some wires and left it in neutral. 🤦‍♂️
  4. Transfer case in neutral?
  5. Well the news isn’t good, after talking with the folks at GoECM they have confirmed the processor is bad in my ECM and is not repairable. Thankfully they are applying my repair cost towards the purchase of a new(reman) unit. I would assume this may be why the ACS repair didn’t work. I don’t know enough about these things to know if they would have been able to test this in depth. Their cost was much cheaper than GoECM so I’m not going to say anything negative about them. According to the info ACS sent me it sounds like they tested and repaired the parts I knew weren’t working. I’ll update again when I receive the new ECM and get it installed.
  6. 2 points
    I bought my parts from a combination of allstate gear and torque king I believe. I had to replace the input shaft, main shaft and counter shaft. Mine was pretty trashed. I also replaced the tail housing, OEM was an aluminum peice, I replaced it with a cast iron piece from torque king.
  7. Glade to hear it. This means that GoECM fixed what ACS could not. A big plus for GoECM.
  8. Praise the 8lb 3oz. baby Jesus my truck lives!!! I reassembled everything, hooked the batteries up and did a TPS calibration and it fired right up like it was running yesterday. Not to proud to admit I shed a tear or two of joy. 🥳
  9. As requested by MoparMan this is an article detailing the electric vacuum pump conversion: Since I’ve deleted my oem vacuum & power steering pump(s) and gone to a midrange setup for steering assist I still need vacuum to activate the hvac controls and my exhaust brake. Trucks with vacuum controlled cruise should work but this modification applies to just my setup. My cruise is ecm controlled and I have the non cad front axle so my vacuum demand is limited. On SD applications they use it lock the front hubs & hvac on their trucks so I feel it should work on any of our vehicles. I used the same pump from the SuperDuty and 3rd gen Rams (same pump). I picked it up from Rockauto with a mating connector. I drilled 3 holes and mounted it an easy to service spot on the fuse box cover. Plumbing wise it goes to a control manifold for the EB and tees off into the oem vacuum line on the firewall. I don’t use a reservoir like Ford but you could run one if you desire it. Power wise it gets fused voltage from the PDC power stud which also is the relay supply power (pin 30). The relay trigger is controlled by a fuse tap in one of the pdc fuses that is hot with key on (so it doesn’t run all the time). The pump has an internal governor so when it reaches its vacuum threshold it shuts off. If it’s always running then you most likely have a leak you need to repair first. View full Cummins article
  10. Basically, the pump section pulls out of the reservoir, and there is a large o-ring. As for the pump vanes, I've never opened up. Rest is just o-rings. Be sure you can get the o-rings first before opening. I would check with Blue Top Steering for pump and steering box supplies. https://bluetopsteeringgears-com.3dcartstores.com/
  11. 1 point
    How are you checking voltage for the lift pump? Where are your test leads connected? Ignition key on - lift pump runs for 1/4 second Bump start, leave ignition key on - lift pump runs for approximately 20 seconds The ignition key must be turned off between bump start tests. John
  12. cab off to blasting today!
  13. Build is progressing slowly then id like but trying to do it right the first time. Slow transferring all the parts to the new long block but got the turbo drilled tapped for water methanol and gasket matched the manifold and the turbo.
  14. If I am understanding correctly, the engine died because the lift pump was not operating. If this is true, then one of two things could be happening: The engine died because the VP44 internal vane pump could not pull fuel through a non operational lift pump. Some lift pumps are built this way, others have a directional free flow when non operational. The engine died because the VP44 internal vane pump was drawing air mixed with fuel from possible leaking fuel line / fuel line connections between the lift pump and the VP44 injection pump. I would be more suspect of #2 since you are seeing it take awhile to build lift pump pressure after the engine starts. I have actually installed a fuel line with a check valve that bypasses the lift pump just in case I have a lift pump failure. If a lift pump failure occurred on a road trip, the fuel supply would not be interrupted - the fuel would be drawn around the lift pump by the VP44's internal vane pump - no performance loss and no damage to the VP44. I could repair the truck when I get home. John
  15. On September 6, 2016, I wrote the article "Adding inline power steering filter with system flush" and posted it in 24 valve 2ed generation/Axles, Suspension & Brakes. This is the follow up to that article. Update...7/25/2025 It has been 8years 9months and 44,888 miles since I installed the Magnefine filter and flushed the power steering system, so it was time to flush the power steering fluid and replace the filter again. I used an oil syringe fluid evacuator pump this time to remove and refill the fluid at the power steering pump. The picture below shows the first time the fluid was removed from the system It took 5 remove, refill, and run engine for 4secounds to get the fluid to this clear color, about 2qts. Here is the filter cut open. It looks like the filter could last 60,000+ miles before changing. There was just a fine film on the magnet.
  16. After 18 years of interesting CTD enthusiasts and transmission specialty outlets all contributing their method, or fix, to the well known TC lock unlock syndrome, I can no longer remain silent. Extensive review of many posts regarding TC lock unlock, the rerouting methodes, the add on filters for APPS and last, but not least,...the "tin-foil hat" brigade. I do realize that each individual or company that contributed to the vast amount of information on the web had good intentions and I must acknowledge that some of the procedures caused me to closely examine what these people were trying to do. I believe it is well known that even a blind mouse occasionally finds a morsel of cheese. Again, as it is well known @Mopar1973Man was the only entity who positively identified the instigating source of this key issue. My entry today is not about alternators...it is about what Daimler/Chrysler did in regard to production of these Cummins powered platforms and the complete disregard of common sense Electronic Engineering. Please note, this applies to automatic and manual transmissions as each platform is plagued in the same manor with different quirks. This Blk/Tan #8 gage wire is quite critical in the scheme of things. It is contained within a 1" plastic conduit passing along the front of the engine. It contains water temp sensor leads, air conditioning leads, alternator/PCM leads and the #6 gage alternator charge line to the PDC. This #8 gage Blk/Tan passes over the top/backend of the alternator and is "eventually" connected to the Auxiliary Battery (passenger side) negative terminal. This snapshot of the Factory Service manual documents "four critical ground leads" that are "spliced" in an unconventional method. This photo depicts the three #18 gage wires and the single #14 gage wire entering the shrink-tubing where the "crush-splice" occurs. This bundle exits the large plastic conduit below the VP44 This again is a most disturbing depiction of the Daimler/Chrysler method of splicing critical ground leads and then routing this across the top of the alternator and "eventually" bringing this to ground reference. This photo depicts where this #8 gage Blk/Tan first connects on the way to "eventual" ground...yes this is the Auxiliary Battery tray connector. Please note: it is spliced again and joins the PCM circuit board grounds...which are critical in their own nature...and "eventually" terminate at the negative post of the Auxiliary Battery's negative terminal. This photo is very interesting, it is the Factory Service manual and the assembly line documentation follows this as a road map in the matrix during production. Please NOTE the title "NAME" to each battery...I looked at this for a considerable amount of time before I realized the assembly line coordinators tried to work with the documentation from the Engineering Staff to "make it as it looks"...Could this single oversight be the reason of a four foot ten inch critical ground wire combination traveling the distance to "EVENTUALLY" terminate at ground? From a basic engineering standpoint regarding ground...you "NEVER CHOOSE THE PATH OF EVENTUAL GROUND" !!! It is to be the shortest and most concise connection in reference to ground...this is biblical in ALL ELECTRONICS...including pickup trucks. ! Here is the Factory Service manual documenting the PCM circuit board reference ground starting as a pair of #14 gage wires being spliced into a #10 gage bundle and arriving at the Auxiliary Battery through another connector that joins a #8 gage wire that is "splice-joined" under plastic conduit in a Y configuration joining the rouge #8 gage "after passing over the alternator" traversing the entire engine compartment from the driver side of the vehicle. Seriously I have been drinking excessively, most recently, due to the nature of this blatant discovery. This is the hidden Y splice at the Auxiliary Battery where the "mess" EVENTUALLY terminates for ground reference. This photo shows the correct "HOLE" of where to apply ground for the VP44, ECM and the PDC...note the logical location It took a little research to find the size and proper thread-pitch. Metric M5 with a 5/16" hex head is perfect This is where you apply a fresh "quality" #6 gage ground and terminate this at the Main Battery negative post on the drivers side for absolute ground reference for the VP44 and ECM This is a very short and concise reference to ground. This is the corrected procedure for a rather critical ground. The two largest wires originally contained within the 1 inch conduit are no longer present and located well away from the alternator. My alternator B+ "charge" line is now a #4 gage line directly connected to the Auxiliary Battery and when my new battery terminals arrive and they are secured, I'll provide photos of a completed Master Power Supply System within this engine bay. With these corrections, I would hypothesize that a poor ripple specification on a given alternator would be overcome by the immense capacitance of the parallel batteries and would become less prone to causing the dreaded TC lock/unlock for automatics and cruise-control abnormalities for the manual transmission platforms. The #8 gage Blk/Tan passing over the alternator as an "EVENTUAL" ground is gone...the PCM, ECM, VP44 and the PDC are now grounded in accordance of standard Electronic Engineering practices. Respectfully W-T
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