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I hope they find what the problem is. Please let us know how it works out with this ECM repair shop so we can update the article "List of Verified and Reliable PCM/ECM Rebuilders" in the 24 Valve 2ed generation engine section.

After some thinking and talking to the wife, I’ve decided to send the ecm to someone else. I think the problem with ACS may be that their repair is based solely on the information I give them. The shop that fixed my turbos recommended a place they use out of Texas. I called them today and they test and check the entire unit. Just found out today my daughter can’t take drivers ed for a few more months so I’m gonna use the money we saved for that to get it done.

On September 6, 2016, I wrote the article "Adding inline power steering filter with system flush" and posted it in 24 valve 2ed generation/Axles, Suspension & Brakes. This is the follow up to that article. Update...7/25/2025 It has been 8years 9months and 44,888 miles since I installed the Magnefine filter and flushed the power steering system, so it was time to flush the power steering fluid and replace the filter again. I used an oil syringe fluid evacuator pump this time to remove and refill the fluid at the power steering pump. The picture below shows the first time the fluid was removed from the system It took 5 remove, refill, and run engine for 4secounds to get the fluid to this clear color, about 2qts. Here is the filter cut open. It looks like the filter could last 60,000+ miles before changing. There was just a fine film on the magnet.

That is the first ray of sunshine I have heard. Is love to tighten this transmission up but for sure dont want to grenade the transmission. I'll call power driven/dap and see what I can do

Thanks for the info I am still learning about my 2002 Cummins and this info and much more have helped me very much.

Sadly I have nothing to "work" it with... it is back to daily driver status... I may hook onto the trailer and go pickup some firewood but even that isn't "working" it like I KNOW the truck likes. :) and the NOT WET status inside and down stream from the turbo is what most perplexed me... I was expecting "wet" as well.

Body now AT sandblaster.....but Tony (painter) is out of town for 2 weeks on a visit to family. Color should be close to this picture of my friends 52.

:) only 300 miles so not really put it to a test yet.... but I haven't noticed any more peppiness. But you have to remember, my turbo was creating boost... just sending oil along with it.... so I am seeing the same boost levels.... I don't expect much to change minus not consuming oil.

SO... new turbo installed, apparently (only a 100 miles in) I no longer am losing oil. A few things to note... NO ONE knows what the "w" is for on the HX35w, I"m calling it "W" for WING... because the HX35 has a bracket for the waste gate which won't work on our trucks... the true "W" does. After I ordered my Rotomaster Reman Stock Turbo 99-02 I did find some actual "W" turbos for less... but considering I had to send mine back for a core $560 was not bad...just knowing it was all American... $250 and not sending my core in would have been nice, I could have rebuilt it myself and had a backup for when the Chinesium turbo failed.... I did paint some items to match. Here are the photos. One of which was the OLD oil drain into the crank case... I THOUGHT the wastegate tubing was going to come in blue... so I'll replace it later. IT BLEW BLACK smoke the first 10 miles, I am pretty sure that was just getting rid of the soot that had built up in the tail pipe.. because after it ran clean.

John, first things first, I apologize for not getting back to you sooner and for not getting together on my trip up to Baker City and Wallowa Lake. The Wife had our scheduled wound up tight, not a minute too spare. The new truck was fantastic with just one hiccup, the level gauge on the def tank. It would go from full to empty instantly on four different occasions but would always correct itself by just driving it or by shutting it off and restarting. Still have to get it into the dealer for that but it appears from reading other forums that this is a common problem. The difference in power and torque when it came to towing was a huge difference and improvement from my 2000 Dodge CTD. When I went from my old gas pickup to the 2000 Dodge in 02 I was like I’m never going back to a gas powered truck again. With the new 2025 truck it’s five times that level of improvement. It’s powerful, smooth, quiet and comfortable. Don’t get me wrong I still love the old 2000 and it’s not going anywhere, just relegated to more of a work truck. Hopefully the new one will be just as reliable for me. Again I apologize for not getting together. We’ll be back up there next June but for now it’s back in the shop as I have a full schedule of repairs lined up. Take care. P/S The exhaust brake is huge, down hill grades hardly touched the brakes.

That is good news. I didn't catch this on my first read. That would definitely be a contributor to "death wobble". John

:) I actually ordered blue silicone... 22mm I.D. as well as painted several metal components blue. After I got the hose off, it appeared to be silicone jacketed with something rubber, orange interior.... Reman RotoMaster HX35w should be delivered on Friday. Should be back up and running by end of day Saturday.... then the testing starts all over with hopefully NO oil consumption.

Hello, I took the vehicle, and so far, no problems have recurred. This is a crazy story... I'm so happy that my vehicle is working normally again.... Miracle.... Thank you very much for your help.....

Yes. Anything to prevent oxidation from happening.

Got both turbos removed today and will be taking them in to get resealed while I figure out new drain lines. While I was in there I cleaned all the grounds and inspected the harness on the passenger side of the engine compartment. They all looked good except the one on the PCM had a little touch of green on the wire so I will most likely replace that one. I’m also unplugging and plugging all the connections as well. Would it be a good idea to smear some dielectric grease on the grounds? I did check a few on the other side before I ran out of steam. I off work this week so I will get out there again later.

I just uploaded the service manual for the HX35/40 Holset turbo... I used it for likely trouble shooting my turbo... though ultimately I couldn't get my turbo apart to look at the one item that I questioned... didn't want to damage mine which is going back as a CORE... I hate it... otherwise it is still quite tight for a 450k mile turbo... I think my failure was Piston Ring Seal, Turbine (number 13 on the schematic). Guessing that the soot from the break in period is what got me... Replacing my turbo with this one from Thoroughbred diesel. Was the best price/quality I could find. https://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/h8350108r/ Some additional information, it definitely was heater hose 7/8" OR 22 mm I.D. I actually ordered a foot from amazon because I wanted to replace the oily section... not sure why it was oily but I took it ALL out cleaned it up and painting it all flat black.

Hello every body, I finally found the problem after 5 months... While disassembling the injection pump again, I wanted to check the condition of the long intake gasket... It was completely broken... I replaced it, put everything back together, and started it up... Incredibly, everything was back to normal... I told myself that if that doesn't work, I'll tackle the gearbox converter... Phew, less work, because a gearbox takes a long time to remove...

Sadly if it's not leaking on the ground it leaking internally and being burnt as fuel. Vacuum pump would leak on the ground Front / rear crank seal would leak on theme ground Tappet cover would leak on the ground. Valve cover would leak on the ground. Valve seals yup it would be burnt as fuel and only be seen after the engine sat all night and Valve stems would be wet with engine oil. Piston rings yup could burn the oil as fuel too but blow by would be noticed typically. There is one case here from @jlwelding that had a cracked piston that past blow by test. Only proper way to test is a compression test. Lower compression would point that out.

REMEMBER do NOT remove all the paint from a ground location. With both of us here in Idaho salt off the highway will make the matel rust and fail for the ground. Make all bare metal is painted before reattach the ground. Really sucks that you find the wire just hanging from rusted chunk of metal.

I did find one loose ground wire that was covered in crud, cleaned and tightened to no avail. I need to pull my big turbo off to get it resealed and remove my inter cooler and piping to clean them out so I may as well start that and get a better look at the rest of the harness while I’m at it.

Well, dang! Did you get good life out of the pump? Those three codes narrow things down a bit. By chance, did you try swapping the VP44 pump relay with another like relay? Doesn't cost anything to check. John

Item #32 is the grommet, MOPAR part number is 04429451. Whoever is responsible for EACH grommet costing $20+ should be taken behind the barn for a "discussion".

Well, driving home with the travel trailer in tow today pulling a hill at 55 minding my own business truck running great, crested the hill and bam, engine died. Coasted off to the side of the road. Checked fuel pressure from the FASS fuel pump, all good. Still no start. Get it towed home and have codes P0232, P1689 and P1688. Looks like I need an injector pump.

More good news, just got my Quad module back from testing and it’s toast. There’s $800 I don’t have. I can’t wait to see how the truck runs on stock tuning with all the other mods if I ever get this ecm issue sorted out. My S475 is being rebuilt and they at least verified it was due to the drain hose not flowing well enough. The S357 they said was fine and needed nothing. That’s still $500 for the rebuild and $200 for new drain lines plus whatever having the ecm rebuilt a second time will run me. 🫣. The last 10 trouble free years of operation are all catching up to me.