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After 18 years of interesting CTD enthusiasts and transmission specialty outlets all contributing their method, or fix, to the well known TC lock unlock syndrome, I can no longer remain silent. Extensive review of many posts regarding TC lock unlock, the rerouting methodes, the add on filters for APPS and last, but not least,...the "tin-foil hat" brigade. I do realize that each individual or company that contributed to the vast amount of information on the web had good intentions and I must acknowledge that some of the procedures caused me to closely examine what these people were trying to do. I believe it is well known that even a blind mouse occasionally finds a morsel of cheese. Again, as it is well known @Mopar1973Man was the only entity who positively identified the instigating source of this key issue. My entry today is not about alternators...it is about what Daimler/Chrysler did in regard to production of these Cummins powered platforms and the complete disregard of common sense Electronic Engineering. Please note, this applies to automatic and manual transmissions as each platform is plagued in the same manor with different quirks. This Blk/Tan #8 gage wire is quite critical in the scheme of things. It is contained within a 1" plastic conduit passing along the front of the engine. It contains water temp sensor leads, air conditioning leads, alternator/PCM leads and the #6 gage alternator charge line to the PDC. This #8 gage Blk/Tan passes over the top/backend of the alternator and is "eventually" connected to the Auxiliary Battery (passenger side) negative terminal. This snapshot of the Factory Service manual documents "four critical ground leads" that are "spliced" in an unconventional method. This photo depicts the three #18 gage wires and the single #14 gage wire entering the shrink-tubing where the "crush-splice" occurs. This bundle exits the large plastic conduit below the VP44 This again is a most disturbing depiction of the Daimler/Chrysler method of splicing critical ground leads and then routing this across the top of the alternator and "eventually" bringing this to ground reference. This photo depicts where this #8 gage Blk/Tan first connects on the way to "eventual" ground...yes this is the Auxiliary Battery tray connector. Please note: it is spliced again and joins the PCM circuit board grounds...which are critical in their own nature...and "eventually" terminate at the negative post of the Auxiliary Battery's negative terminal. This photo is very interesting, it is the Factory Service manual and the assembly line documentation follows this as a road map in the matrix during production. Please NOTE the title "NAME" to each battery...I looked at this for a considerable amount of time before I realized the assembly line coordinators tried to work with the documentation from the Engineering Staff to "make it as it looks"...Could this single oversight be the reason of a four foot ten inch critical ground wire combination traveling the distance to "EVENTUALLY" terminate at ground? From a basic engineering standpoint regarding ground...you "NEVER CHOOSE THE PATH OF EVENTUAL GROUND" !!! It is to be the shortest and most concise connection in reference to ground...this is biblical in ALL ELECTRONICS...including pickup trucks. ! Here is the Factory Service manual documenting the PCM circuit board reference ground starting as a pair of #14 gage wires being spliced into a #10 gage bundle and arriving at the Auxiliary Battery through another connector that joins a #8 gage wire that is "splice-joined" under plastic conduit in a Y configuration joining the rouge #8 gage "after passing over the alternator" traversing the entire engine compartment from the driver side of the vehicle. Seriously I have been drinking excessively, most recently, due to the nature of this blatant discovery. This is the hidden Y splice at the Auxiliary Battery where the "mess" EVENTUALLY terminates for ground reference. This photo shows the correct "HOLE" of where to apply ground for the VP44, ECM and the PDC...note the logical location It took a little research to find the size and proper thread-pitch. Metric M5 with a 5/16" hex head is perfect This is where you apply a fresh "quality" #6 gage ground and terminate this at the Main Battery negative post on the drivers side for absolute ground reference for the VP44 and ECM This is a very short and concise reference to ground. This is the corrected procedure for a rather critical ground. The two largest wires originally contained within the 1 inch conduit are no longer present and located well away from the alternator. My alternator B+ "charge" line is now a #4 gage line directly connected to the Auxiliary Battery and when my new battery terminals arrive and they are secured, I'll provide photos of a completed Master Power Supply System within this engine bay. With these corrections, I would hypothesize that a poor ripple specification on a given alternator would be overcome by the immense capacitance of the parallel batteries and would become less prone to causing the dreaded TC lock/unlock for automatics and cruise-control abnormalities for the manual transmission platforms. The #8 gage Blk/Tan passing over the alternator as an "EVENTUAL" ground is gone...the PCM, ECM, VP44 and the PDC are now grounded in accordance of standard Electronic Engineering practices. Respectfully W-T

Ok I know several members have done this mod and said it was easy. It sure is easy. It takes about 2 hours from start to finish to complete this project. You'll need the terminal lugs and the metric bolt that @W-T specifies in his article. First thing disconnect your batteries. I unhooked the two negative leads. You need to gain access to the loom going across the front of the engine. So you'll need to remove the upper alternator bracket and the the two loom holders on the front of the block. I did this during my coolant flush project so my upper hose and thermostat are removed. If you have my crankcase vent that will need to be removed as well. Now I started at the battery and the alternator and started unhooking the wiring from these devices bring it forward. Now you start working on getting the split loom off the wiring. Start at the tape with a small exacto knife or razor blade and carefully split the tape to release the plastic split loom cover. Carefully remove it. I found out mine was brittle after all the years of engine heat. Once you remove all that slpit loom you can again split the spiral tape holding the loom together. Now you show be able to have both the ground lead and the alternator charge lead loose now. I will admit the alternator lead took a bit of work to release at the knot of tape on mine where it breaks out of the loom heading for the PDC. Just take your time with your razor blade and your get it released. You can clearly see the splice of the ground just like @W-T mentions in his article. Once you get the alternator lead out in one piece. Then the ground lead I used a pair of wire dikes and cut the ground right at the end of the splice. Now the alternator lead I reused the wire since it was in excellent condition. I mocked up the alternator lead by hooking it back up to the alternator like it should be and gave it a nice loop of slack then cut it to meet the positive battery terminal. On my terminal lugs, I took a hacksaw and scored the plastic collars and peeled them off for soldering. Then slipped the lug on and used a propane torch with the low flame and soldered the lugs right on to the wire. Good sold weld and this will seal the wire from future rot from battery acid and vapors. This is the completed alternator connection now. All I did was grab an old nut and stacked on the battery terminal. Now we are going to do the ground side. Now trim back the old splice and free the ends of the wires. Now strip back the wire so you can fit the wires into a lug. Again I did the same thing I took the hacksaw scored the plastic collar and peeled it off the lug and then slipped it on the wires and prepped it for soldering. Again just slipped the lug on the wires and low flame with a propane torch I soldered the lug to the wires. Now I cut the old plug off the splice on the passenger side ground and then trimmed the length of the wire with the plug so it would reach between the driver side battery and the gear case. Same again I peeled the plastic collar and slipped the lugs on and soldered with low flame propane torch. This gives you an idea where the wires go. Take your metric bolt and attach the ground wires to the case. Then the ground cable to the negative battery terminal on the driver side. Beyond this is just clean up. Now you need to tape up your loom again. I'm going to replace my split loom with a smaller size being the old loom was brittle and was breaking during removal. The only thing that should run across the front of the engine now should be the ECT sensor which is a twisted pair. The A/C compressor, A/C high-pressure switch, and the alternator field lead. Before AC noise level was 0.038 AC volts now after the mod its dropped to 0.015 AC volts (or 15mV AC). About the parallel cables... There is lot of folks being told they NEED the parallel the positive and negative cables. To test if you need that or not. Take a good quality DVM meter capable of DC mV scale. Now place a Black probe on the battery terminal and the red probe on the block (clean metal). Typically I see 3mV (0.003 volts) after doing the other part of the ground wire mod. Now take a set of jumper cables and go from the negative post to negative post. Also check the AC noise voltage with the jumper cable hooked up if there is no real change then you do not require the parallel cables. If the voltage drop is the same with the jump cables then you do not require the parallel cables because there are ZERO improvements. You can do this on the positive side as well. If there is a voltage change my first thought is to replace the BAD cables first before paralleling on a bad cable. All you do is covering up a bad connection. Adding the extra cables will not improve anything if it's not changing the voltage drop from point to point. Addon: Protection fuse or fusible link Some members are suggesting to install a fusible link or fuse of the same size at 140 Amps on the charge lead as a protection method. Just in case for some reason the diode bridge happens to short the positive side to the ground and doesn't start an engine fire. As for the size of the fusible link is still unknown as of yet. The factory is 140 amp fuse. The fusible link would be better suited than a fuse. I've found a few trucks that is incapable of doing a circuit breaker because of mystery loads and causing the breaker to trip prematurely. Fuse will solve this problem but make sure to carry an extra fuse. Addon: Resettable Circuit Breaker I picked up an inexpensive 150A circuit breaker from Amazon. The breaker does the job but over time the breaker will get weak and trip prematurely. I still favor the circuit breaker over a fuse for the alternator protection. Fuses you might go through several and be left high and dry without a spare and unable to drive home. Make sure you buy plenty of spare fuses if you go that route. Even with my backcountry travels I still trust the circuit breaker better.

Dodge/Cummins ECU (1998.5 - 2002 ISB) ECU Hardware There are 2 computers on the Ram. One on the passenger side firewall behind the air cleaner assembly (the Powertrain Control Module, or PCM), and the ECU, which is located on the left side of the engine, mounted directly on the engine block. The ECU is connected with a single 50-pin connector. The ECU itself is a sealed unit, with a single air vent device. It is constructed of an aluminum 'frame', or center section, that has the mounting tabs to fasten it to the engine, and a sheet aluminum 'cover', that isn't really a cover at all - the flexible plastic 'circuit board' is adhered directly to the inside of this 'cover', on both sides. There is gray silicone sealer between the 'cover' and the 'frame'. To open the ECU, one must remove the screws, and carefully pry the cover open. You must be sure to keep the cover straight and don't bend it, as the flexible circuit board is adhered directly to the inside of it. The side of the ECU with the electrical connector seems to contain power supply and other power-switching components (driver transistors, etc). I do not know if there are any ICs on this side, because I did not open mine up on that side (and at this point, I do not really want to). The other side contains the 'computer' components (processor, memory, etc) as shown below: Most of the ICs inside are standard components. There are several unidentified components: 8L12A: 8-pin IC. Possibly 12V voltage regulator for flash programming? Phillips IC, marked '4651148 005633-- Fhr011B'. Maybe analog MUX for ADC inputs? Atmel IC, marled 'ENCORE 51R42722U02 82002253-001 A9D0013 9951'. I have no idea what this is for, it looks like an ASIC. 8-pin IC marked '74690 XAVS' 8-pin IC marked '3029009 1951130'. Near the filter choke. CAN bus driver? The ECU only uses 256KB of flash, even if the installed chip is larger. The original ECU I opened had a 512KB chip (28F400). I later obtained another ECU, and discovered it had a 256KB chip (28F200). These flash chips are organized into a 16KB boot block, 2 8KB parameter blocks, and the remaining blocks are regular data blocks. The parameter blocks can sustain many more read/write cycles than the other blocks on the chip. There is 64k of RAM available, in the 2 32Kx8 SRAM chips. The memory is organized as follows: 0x000000 - 0x3FFFFF: Flash. The first 16k (0x000000 - 0x004000) is the 'boot' part of the flash chip. 0x800000 - 0x80FFFF: RAM 0xFFD000 - 0xFFD7FF: Some unknown peripheral device. Perhaps the Atmel chip? 0xFFD800 - 0xFFDFFF: Intel CAN Controller 0xFFE000 - 0xFFEFFF: TPURAM (Refer to the MC68336 manual) 0xFFF000 - 0xFFFFFF: MC68336 internal functions/integrated peripherals Software Using a BDM interface cable and driver, I wrote a program that would dump the contents of the flash chip to a file for inspection. This was difficult because every so often during the data transfer, an error would occur. I solved this problem by only reading 2KB at a time. I later found out that this read error was occurring because of a 'watchdog timer' in the ECU hardware was attempting to assert RESET while I was reading the data (because when reading through the BDM port, the CPU is stopped). Once I modified the program to do 2KB reads I was able to get a successful read of the data. I used GNU objdump to create an assembler listing of the file. I have spent many hours 'picking apart' the program to figure out what each section is for, how the peripherals of the MC68336 are configured/used, etc. There is a compressed program in the lower 16K (boot block) that gets decompressed into RAM at startup, only if certain conditions are met. This is probably a small program that is only good for reading the CAN bus, so that the flash can be reprogrammed. I have not spent much time examining this program. The VIN of the vehicle is embedded in data around 0x4000, and again around 0x8000. There is also a 'signature' around 0x8000 that is checked at startup, and if it is valid, an address is read from location 0x800a and execution of the 'main' startup code continues at that address. There is a considerable amount of data that gets moved from the end of the flash data into RAM at startup. In this example, the data begins at 0x3829e and ends at 0x3fee7. That is approx. 32KB of data. At this time, I have only been able to identify the startup code, where the various components are initialized and addresses are set up, and parts of the program that read/write the CAN messages. The following things need to be done: Identify the CAN messages themselves, the message contents, and what they mean. Identify which inputs connect to where (temp sensors, MAP, APPS, etc). Identify the other outputs and what ports they are located (Wait to start lamp, VP44 relay, fuel pump relay, intake heaters, etc.) Determine how the flash can be programmed by methods other than desoldering the chip from the board Identify the remaining program sections, and their assocaited data (the 'maps') It would probably be useful to build a CAN interface for my PC, and 'watch' the data on the CAN bus while the engine is in operation. This might yield some information that can be used to identify more of the program. Other information It appears that the ECU itself was designed (and possibly manufactured) by Motorola. The ECU software, is unknown. There is no copyright message or any other identifying information in the dump of the flash memory, except the VIN number and the string '091197'. I do not know what language the program was originally written in, probably C, I really don't think something that large would be written in assembly language. Why? Because it is my truck, my ECU, my flash memory chip, etc. and I have a right to know how it works. And I also have the right to do what I want with it, whether that be drive it, or take the ECU out, sprinkle cheddar cheese on it and bake it in the oven, etc. I think people should be able to understand, and repair if necessary, anything that they own, whether it be a computer, a car, a dishwasher, or a bike.

INSTALLING PROTECTIVE LIFT PUMP RELAY The life pump is powered through the ECM via pin #15 and #35. Every time the lift pump is energized the power drawn through the ECM causes heat. After a few thousands cycles of start/stops this heating up and cooling down cause’s degradation in the solder joints and failure. Another possible cause of ECM failure is higher than normal amperage load by either a larger capacity lift pump or a failing pump. As a lift pump starts to go bad (wear internally) the AMP load is increased to overcome the resistance. This added power draw can cause the ECM circuit board to overheat and solder joints to open. The lift pump power routed through a relay protects the ECM from power spikes and excessive amperage loads. The power load on the ECM is now less than 200mA. The lift pump circuit is also protected by a dedicated fuse. MATERIALS NEEDED WIRE: 4 colors if possible, size determined by load and distance, see chart. Fuse holder with fuse: AMP rating determined by load. Relay: Bosch type/mini ISO, terminal 87 normally open (NO) with suppressor, AMP rating determined by load. 6 (or more) solderless insulated female spade connector, 6.35 mm (.25”) sized for wire gauge. 2 (or more) solderless insulated male spade connector, 6.35 mm (.25”) sized for wire gauge. 1 (or more) solderless insulated barrel connector, gauge size for fuse holder. 2 ring terminals, one sized for ground wire and the other sized for fuse holder connection. Dielectric grease, for terminal connections. Self-adhering Velcro, for attaching relay to PDC. ¼” protective wire cover or wrap cut to length. TOOLS Wire cutter Wire stripper Crimping tool for solderless connectors, a small pair of Vice-Grips will work. A 13mm and 10mm socket or wrench. Volt, ohm, amp (VOA) meter with 20amp scale. Optional, Soldering gun/iron with rosin core solder LIFT PUMP DRAW TEST Locate the ground wire for the lift pump and place the VOA meter leads in series anywhere between a grounding point and the negative terminal/wire of the lift pump. With the negative VOA lead connected to ground and the positive VOA lead on the negative side of the lift pump turn the meter select to the 20 amp DC scale, turn the ignition key to the on position and the lift pump will run for 5 seconds. Read the amp draw and make note of it. The fuse, relay and wire size will be based on it. In this example we will use a hypothetical draw of 8.6 amps. CHOOSING FUSE SIZE Finding the correct fuse size is simply multiplying the load in amps times 135% (1.35). In this example 8.6 amps multiplied by 1.35 equals 11.61 amps. The next sized fuse larger than 11.61 amps is 15 so for this example a 15 amp fuse will be used. WIRE SIZE Wire size is based on fuse size and length of wire. The wire has to be able to carry a larger load and not burn up before the fuse does. If the wire gauge is too small for a given distance then the resistance in the wire will cause a drop in voltage. This reduced voltage reaching the lift pump will cause it to run slower and produce less pressure. The voltage not reaching the lift pump is given off as heat. Using the wire gauge chart an 18 AWG is the minimum size used for this example. WHAT RELAY TO USE When an electric motor starts there can be a sharp volt/amp load placed momentarily on the relay contacts so the relay should be rated 2-3 time the motors normal amperage. The motor in this example runs at 8.61 amps times’ 3 equals 25.8 amps so the next size relay that can be used is one rated at 30 amps. The relay of choice is the mini ISO otherwise known as the Bosch type in either 4 or 5 terminal, normally open (NO). Relay terminal 30 is switched power or common in, 87 is switched power out and normally open circuit (NO) when no power is applied to the relay coil. Terminal 86 is the positive or triggering terminal and 85 is the grounding terminal for the relay coil, check relay wire diagram for specific applications. Terminal 87a is normally closed (NC) when no power is applied to the relay coil. If you find a relay marked 20/30 this means terminal 87a is rated for 20 amps and terminal is rated for 30 amps. Using a relay with a built in voltage suppressor is a must. The relay will have a resistor or diode in parallel with the relay coil. This suppressor reduces the back flowing voltage spikes to the ECM when the power to the relay is shut off and the magnetic field around the coil collapses. Most relays denote the use of a suppressor with a symbol of a resistor or diode in the wiring diagram printed or etched into the relay cover. Pay extra attention to the +,- of pins #85 and 86 when installing a relay with a suppressing diode, if not installed properly the relay can be damaged. Napa relay part #ECH AR272 is ratted for 30 amps and has a resistor suppressor. INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS OPTION A First disconnect the batteries. Now determine where to place the relay. The relay can be placed on the PDC with Velcro, my Edge EZ has been mounted to the PDC this way for over 12 years. This will keep the electric components in one area, a shorter wire run for relay terminal 30 and no holes in the metal where rust can start. Do not put a screw through the PDC housing; there is the risk of wire or component damage. The source of the constant 12volt power can be either the positive terminal of the left battery or for a neater installation use the large cable stud in the PDC. Install one end of the fuse holder using an appropriate sized ring terminal to the 12 volt terminal and with an insulated female spade connector attach the other end to relay terminal 30. If the wire for the fuse holder is to short connect extra length with either an insulated barrel connector or solder them together and insulate with heat shrink tubing. Find the wire harness used for the lift pump, pulling back the protective wire wrap there will be a yellow wire with white tracer (yl/wt) and a factory connector. This is the factory lift pump power supply and will be used as the ‘trigger’ to open and close the relay contacts. The power source can be verified by attaching a test light or volt meter to it and turning the ignition key to the on position, there will be 12 volts for 5 seconds. The yl/wt wire can be cut 2½”-3”from the factory connector. NOTE this is another place where an amp lode test could be performed. Connect the new correct size wire with either male/female insulated spade connectors, insulated barrel connector or solder/heat shrink to the end coming from the ECM. Attach the other end of the new wire to relay terminal 86 with an insulated female spade connector. Consult relay diagram if diode protected. Connect another new wire to relay terminal 87 with an insulated female spade connector and the other end of the wire to either the factory connector where the yl/wt wire was cut or to the lift pump itself. The picture above shows new insulated spade connectors, the wire on the left is from the ECM to terminal 86 and the wire on the right is from terminal 87 to the lift pump. The relay grounding wire is attached to relay terminal 85 with an insulated female spade connector and the other end using a ring connector to the body. The bolt that holds the PDC to the inner fender is a good spot. Reconnect batteries and test. When routing wires take care that they are kept away from moving parts, ie: steering column, have enough length so as not to pull loose and are covered with protective wire cover or wrap. Use dielectric grease on connections to keep corrosion to a minimum or solder and seal with heat shrink tube. INSTALLATION ISTRUCTION OPTION B The relay and fuse can be installed in the PDC giving it the appearance of an OEM part. Some of the connectors used in the PDC are not available in the general market but can be found in an auto/truck salvage yard. I went to a ‘pick your part’ type salvage yard and found a 1999 Ram 1500 with V8. The PDC is basically the same as my 2000 diesel. You can either buy the whole PDC or remove the terminals with wires attached that will be needed. Leave as much wire as possible; the excess can be trimmed later. Disconnect connect the battery, remove the PDC cover and locate where a spare fuse and relay can be added. Remove the two sheet metal screws (10mm socket) and lift the PDC up. The PDC housing can now be opened by gently lifting the plastic clips on the sides and prying it apart. Now the bottom of the top half is exposed. Drill a hole large enough for three wires to pass through in the lower half of the case. This is where the wires for relay terminals 85, 86 and 87 will exit the PDC. The additional wire length is added by soldering and heat shrink tubing or insulated barrel connector to the used OEM connectors. These connections will be protected in the lower half of the PDC. Pass the wires through the hole and place the salvaged connectors into their appropriate relay slots. The other end of the wires can now be trimmed to length and connected as described in the installation instructions option a above. Place the 2 halves of the PDC together and remount the PDC to the inner fender while grounding the relay terminal 85 wire with one of the screws, reconnect battery and test. My truck lift fuel pump amp draw is 6.5 amps so at 135% protection needed is 8.77 amps, next standard size fuse is 10 amps. Relay size is 3 x 6.5 amps = 19.5 amps so a 20amp rated relay is needed. I used a micro relay which is half the size of a mini relay because it can handle 20 amps and there were 4 empty positions I could put it in verses 1 position for a mini relay in the PDC. I put the relay in a spot marked for an O₂ heater. My truck has a Fuel Boss mechanical fuel pump and I have this electric pump as a backup so I run the engine with the 10amp fuse in the glove box. With a fuel pump relay the fuel system can be primed without the ignition key being turned to the on position by jumping relay terminal 30 to 87. As long as the two terminals are connected the fuel pump will run. Written by: J. Daniel Martin, Martin’s Mobile Maintenance AKA: IBMobile 3/2/2017

Quadzilla Custom Tuning How-To The Quadzilla Adrenaline allows for a significant amount of custom tuning to be done by the user to alter the way that the Quadzilla ADR commands fueling. This gives the Quadzilla a significant advantage over other tuners on the market. Looking to buy a Quadzilla here is the links back to Quadzilla Power. 1998.5 to 2000 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99 2001 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99 2002 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99 Side note, if you would rather have a pre built tune to start with you can checkout our tune repository. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/182-quadzilla-v2-custom-tune-repository/ It is VERY important to understand that each truck is going to be a little different. Your truck will run as well as you tune it. We are more than willing to answer questions about how it works, but putting in the leg work is your responsiblity. If you follow the Guide posted in Section 3 you should have no trouble making a tune that works well for you. It is also VASTLY important to datalog while you are tuning. Compare smoke vs power to the data log to see where you need to add more fuel or pull more fuel. The Quadzilla V2 tuning is not magic, if you don't put time in to figure out what your truck likes the end result may be less than stellar. Please also consider if your truck has issues, apparent or hidden, with Sensors / Wiring / Computers the quadzilla platform will bring them to light and will likely not run right until the issues are sorted. YOU ALSO MUST HAVE AN IQUAD SETUP, PV1 and PV2 screens are too old and not supported! If you need to buy a Quadzilla Adrenaline you can order one here. https://www.dieselautopower.com/dodge-ram-cummins/1998-5-2002-5-9l-24-valve-dodge-cummins/chips-programmers-and-electronics-1 Use this Excel tool to let you build your tunes in Excel Download it and use it when building your tunes. Index: Section 1: Custom Tuning V2 Section 3: Getting Started with V2 Tuning Section 4: Example Custom Tunes based upon Injector Size Section 1: Custom Tuning V2 ******* It is important to Note that it is not recommended to stack ANY tuners when using the V2 tuning**** V2 of the custom tuning is the next level of custom tuning for the Quadzilla Adrenaline and the VP44 powered Cummins Power 2nd Gen truck. You must have a V2 base tune loaded for these to work along with selecting the V2 vehicle out of the Iquad Vehicle Selection list. One will not work without the other. All the above custom tuning is the same other than power levels and Can TPS Min and Max so I will not go over those again. V2 has everything that V1 has, but more. Can TPS min and Max are no longer used in V2 tuning as the user can tune CANbus fueling to their own liking above stock, below stock, or at stock levels. This makes TPS min and max no longer needed. ************************************************************************************************************************************************* Change to the Power Levels from V1 Tunes Quadzilla has introduced a new power level called power reduction as the new lvl 1. As a result, all V1 tuning levels are moved up one, Lvl 3, Canbus, has also been modified to allow for on the fly user based custom tuning. Lvls are now: lvl 0: Stock with boost fooling lvl 1: Power reduction for reducing power under stock lvl 2: Timing / MPG mode with Custom user Canbus for 0-10psi with a max of %100. Over 10 psi is possible, but only using the 10psi scaling % in the custom tuning with a max fueling of %100 of oem. lvl 3: Canbus Fueling + Timing including CANbus fueling scaling from 0 - 28 psi lvl 4 +: Wiretap + Canbus + Timing. The more levels you have the smaller the jump in power per level. If you have 7 levels, then lvl 4 will be %33 wiretap lvl 5 will be 66% wiretap and lvl 6 will be full wiretap. Because of the additional lvl we have increased the Max Level to 6 rather than 5 and the upper limit to 15 rather than 14. Lvl 1 now gives you a default of %50 power under the OEM tuning. This will allow pretty much ANY truck with ANY fueling mods to pass emissions that are based on smoke output, without making the truck dangerous on the road. Using Custom tuning you can set the OEM fueling to anything between 0 and 100% of stock. With 100 hp injectors setting this to %80 gives good power without smoke. These custom tuning settings can be switched on the fly without having to download a new tune. You can store up to 10 custom tunes on your device. Here you can see I have 3 tunes, Daily, Race, and Tow. Here is the screen shots for the new tuning. Max Power Levels Power Levels : You can set the minimize power levels to 5 or max to 14. This will give you more or less wiretap levels, Note that no additional power is made by setting max levels higher. Rather setting Max Power Levels higher give you more "steps" of wiretap fueling until the max is reached. IE: total power lvls = 5 gives you 2 wiretap levels (Remember to always could lvl 0 in your total lvls), so lvl 3 will give you %50 of wiretap stretch and lvl 4 will give you %100 of wiretap stretch whereas setting your max lvls to 14 will give you 12 steps of wiretap fueling lvl 3 would be 1/12th of wiretap stretch lvl 9 would be 7/12th of wiretap stretch and lvl 14 would be 12/12th of wiretap stretch Power Reduction: %0-100 gives the user the ability to fine tune how much power they want the truck to have based upon OEM fueling. Setting Power reduction to 0 will make the truck only idle Setting Power Reduction to %100 will make the truck run like stock. Depending on your fueling mods the truck is drivable from %40 to %100. A truck at 7000' altitude with 7 x .009 injectors will not smoke with this setting set to %75, the truck is still VERY street friendly. The emissions people will not question why the truck made only 100 hp as you can set the fueling reduction % based on your injectors to match stock power. Remember this setting is in the custom tuning menu so you can use multiple custom tunes for valet mode (%50) or Girlfriend / wife mode (%65) or emissions mode (%75) or anti-theft mode ( %0) **************************************************************************************************************************************************************** RPM LIMIT We have added a user defined RPM limit variable. you can set this between 3200 and 3700 rpm. Keep in Mind that max RPM will depend on the truck configuration. RPM Limit will put a limit on wiretap fueling. Canbus fueling is configured based on if the base tune is HardFuel or StandardFuel. Going over 3500 rpm should be done at your own risk. Weak pumps will likely not like being forced to rev beyond 3500. Hardfuel will try and extend canbus to 3500RPM StandardFuel will let fueling fall off at 3200RPM. **************************************************************************************************************************************************************** Timing Related Custom Tuning Max Load Timing Offset: 0*-3* setting that allows up to 3* of RPM timing to be based on load. This allows you to tune timing based on a bilinear calculation based on load and rpm. This setting does not increase your max timing, rather it puts weight on Load. IE: if your rpm was 2000 and your max timing for 2000 was set at 19*, your load timing was set at 3* and you are at %50 throttle, then you would get ~%50 of load timing ( 1.5*) which would put your current timing at 17.5* ( 19* max - 1.5* = 17.5*). Where as if you were at %100 throttle then you would get the full 19* of timing at 2000 RPM. Same example %30 load, would give you %30 of 3* = .9* so at 2000 rpm you would have 16.9* of timing if load was at 30% this new timing tuning will give you a significant amount of control over timing compared to other tuners on the market. Low PSI Timing Reduct We have added a new tuning variable to allow for the user to set a max amount of time to pull when TPS is high and boost is low. Pulling timing will assist in spooling the turbo. The range for this reduction is 0-5* Timing Reduction Scaling 0-%100 This allows you to set how much timing gets pulled from the Low PSI timing reduct number set. You may want more timing down low, but want to pull timing up top. Scaling function will limit max timing but allow for the map to calculate off of the max timing until that point is reached. IE: if timing reduction is set to 5* and scaling is set at %50 you will get a max reduction of 2.5* ( 5 * .50 = 2.5) but if the map calls from %50 you will get 2.5* at %50. It will effectively allow for you to reach your max sooner. the graph below so you how it works. Light Load Advance: This setting allows you to advance timing above the base timing curve if load is low. Timing advancement is based on load % where as %0 load would give you the most timing advance and as load increases timing will decrease. After 50 mph there is an additional 1* of timing added ontop of the configured value. Most setups should run a value of between .5 - 2.5 * of timing advance. Play around with this setting to see where EGT's are reduced at cruise state. Stock injector to ~7 x .009 - Generally speaking 17.5*-18.5* of timing is optimal for best MPG while at cruise at 55-65 mph. - Generally speaking 18.5*-19.5* of timing is optimal for best MPG while at cruise at 70-80 mph. - Tow tunes should use a cruise timing advance of .5- 1* unless studs are in place. - If you have Headstuds you can add more Light Throttle Timing for reaching the max MPG. *** ensure you don't overtime the engine in light load situtations. It is not recommend to go above 19* timing below 2k rpm at high load unless you have headstuds. set your base rpm curve responsibly so that at %100 load and WOT your timing is not dangerous. Light Throttle Load Limit: This setting it to set the high load limit for light throttle timing advance. Typically this will be set between 2-30% engine load. Once this limit is reached the Quadzilla will not use Light throttle timing, and only use fuel load and TPS reduction together to alter the base timing curve defined in the "rpm Timing Max" settings. RPM Timing Max Users are given 5 timing settings to set max timing at, It is VERY helpful to data log OEM timing to get a grasp of what your truck is "safe" to run. Leave the Quadzilla on Lvl 0 and do a run with various driving styles. Make note of timing at 1500 rpm, 2k, 2.5k etc. 1500 rpm: Typically users will want to keep this between ~13*-16* ** Keep in mind that OEM timing is referenced for sub 1500 rpm timing. You might see timing above or below your 1500 setting at light throttle. 2000 rpm: Typically users will want to keep this between ~16*-20* 2500 rpm: Typically users will want to keep this between ~20*-25* ** please consider the risks of running high timing, Typically stock tuning allows for up to ~26* at 3k rpm. There are benifits to going higher, like reduced EGT's but be aware of the risk. If you are running studs then the risk is nominal. Most other timing boxes on the market will max timing if boost is up after ~2500 rpm 3000 rpm: Typically users will want to keep this between ~25*-30* ** if you want upper end power then setting your 3k to 30* to max timing will help. Consider the risks involved with extreme tunes Max: Typically users will want to keep this between ~26*-30* ** please note that setting timing higher than suggested may lead to headgasket issues, please ensure you have supporting mods, IE studs, before venturing outside of the recommendation. ************************************************************************************************************************************************ Boost Related Custom Tuning CanBus Custom Tuning In the Custom tuning menu, there are an addition 25 new Custom tuning variables that allow you to set a % of power level above or below stock. The range for this is %50 - %150 You will need to configure this for each psi leading up to 30psi. From 0-16psi is a % per psi above 16 psi is % for 2 psi. It is possible to tune any truck with any injectors to be very clean. Typically ~%70 is the lowest usable % and %130 is the highest, but this will differ from truck to truck. Trucks with VERY large injectors may have a Canbus curve that is below %100 for the entire curve. Truck with near stock sized injectors will typically set this number above 100% increasing as the PSI increases, trucks with large injectors can set low PSI scaling under %100 to clean up off boost fueling. You will notice some increase in lag due to this, but you are able to make fine adjustments to get power where you want it throughout the power range. The best fueling curve will typically be the smoothest curve to reach full fueling when at WOT. using %112 will max out fueling on the upper end. The bigger your injetors as the more gental you want you curve. THIS WILL TAKE SOME FINE TUNING ON YOUR PART FOR BEST RESULTS. MAKE %1 CHANGES ON EACH PSI LEVEL. IN MOST CASES YOU SHOULD NOT MAKE A JUMP OF MORE THAN %5 GOING FROM PSI TO PSI. THE HIGHER THE JUMP IN % THE MORE AGGRESSIVE THE QUADZILLA WILL RAMP UP FUELING. If you want V1 like tuning and you have stockish injectors add 110 to the PSI level you are editing. IE: 0 psi = 110% 5psi = 115% 10psi= 120% _________________________________________ Wiretap Tuning Max Pump Stretch: sets the upper limit for Wiretap Fueling time. Typically 2200 is the max on the aggressive tunes. This is what allows for the calculation of how much pump fueling to use. Remember that you are setting the max amount of fueling. This fueling time is altered by many different inputs such as, but not limited to, boost, rpm, APPS, etc on v1 base tunes lvls 3 - max divide the max stretch by the span IE: if you have 10 levels total 4-10 are wiretap so you have 7 lvls of wiretap on lvl 4 you get 1/7th of additional wiretap fueling, lvl 5 you get 2/7th and so forth. Setting Max Pump Stretch higher may reduce total power while increasing Torque under the curve. If you want upper-end power you would not want to set this to the max. If you want low-end torque you would set this higher. Typically people find that 1600-2000 is the happy spot depending on your injector size and driving style. Smoke output will be increased by setting Stretch higher. TPS scaling functions: By watching TPS / APPS input from the driver the Quadzilla can adjust the fueling curves for Wiretap fueling. This is helpful to tune the Quadzilla to your driving style and can help cut down on low end smoke. TPS Pump Max: This allows for you to set the upper limit for TPS input for wiretap fueling. Wiretap fueling does not stop at this point, rather it peaks at this point. Using the max and min settings you can move the wiretap fueling area around within the 0-100% TPS range. TPS Pump Min: This allows for you to set the lower limit for TPS input for wiretap fueling. Wiretap fueling will not start until this point is reached. Using the max and min settings you can move the wiretap fueling area around within the 0-100% TPS range. Effectively by settings the max and min you are compressing %100 of the fueling between the max's and Mins. IE: maxs at 75 and min's at 25, or cutting the tps range to %50. You will effective double the fueling ramp up once %25 tps is reach until %75 TPS is reached. At %75 TPS input fueling will max out until %100. No additional Power is made, rather the unit can tailor itself to your driving style. This can be used to help low-end spool or help with City driving to keep power down. If you set the min above your typical DD TPS input you can disable fueling when you don't need it. Minimum Pump Tap Fueling Percentage: 0-50% This Tuning variable is to set a low limit % for wiretap. Caution should be used when setting this setting in your custom tune. If you set it at %25 you will get no less than %25 of wiretap at any point in the map at WOT. Setting this high will make the truck smoke, but can be useful when creating a Race tune. Normal DD tunes should likely use %5 or less. Smoke free tunes should use %0. Pump Low boost Scale PSI: 0-25 psi This set the low limit for the wiretap fueling map. If you set this at 0 your wiretap will begin at 0psi. If you set this at 15 your wiretap map will start at 15 psi. Set this variable to whatever PSI you want Wiretap to begin fueling. ** Please note that Boost Scaling V1 tuning cannot set lower than this setting., The ADR will add 5 psi to the v1 Boost Scaling if you set them the same. Boost Scaling: 20-40 psi Allows you to set the point at which fueling is maximized based upon boost levels. Setting this to 20 will give you fuel fueling at 20psi, assuming tps min / and maxes are met. Boost scaling is calculated along with TPS scaling so in order to have %100 of fueling both need to be met. This setting defines the Y axis of the wiretap map, 20 psi means your map range is 0-20 psi 40 psi means the map is 0-40 psi. Keep in mind that your pump low boost scale PSI setting defines what "0psi" is. IE if pump low boost scale is set to 5psi and your boost scaling is set to 20 psi, then the wiretap map will be 5-25 psi. **************************************************************************************************************************************************************** These new custom tuning features are in addition to the V1 custom tuning, so if your TPS is set high that you are currently at you will not have fueling. All custom tuning mins must be reached for any fueling to happen. This Video covers the above tuning Section 2: Getting Started with Quadzilla Adrenaline V2 Custom Tuning ***************************************************************************************************************************************************************** if you would rather have a pre built tune to start with you can checkout our tune repository. we have lots of tunes that cover various configurations https://mopar1973man.com/forum/182-quadzilla-v2-custom-tune-repository/ When you are starting to use V2 Tune on your truck you should follow these steps. 1. Find your starting % 2. Set your base map 3. Fine tune your base map 4. Set your Wiretap start point 5. Set your Wiretap Fueling % This tuning should not be done on busy roads or in any place that risk of crashing or hurting others. A back country road is recommended. Save your tune after EVERY change. Don't forget you are able to create more than one custom tune so you can setup a race tune or tow tune or DD tune. Tune your custom tunes with something in mind. Don't try to make the truck do everything on one tune. Step 1. If you have stock injectors you can set this to 100% or above so you can skip this step and move to Step 2. Use LVL1 and the Power reduction % to find a good point for the CANbus fueling %. For 50 hp injectors start at %95 and move up or down by %1 depending on if you get smoke when you snap throttle from 0-%50 while in gear. Find a reasonable % for smoke output vs low-end power. Remember this is to handle off idle power. ENSURE WHEN YOU ARE TESTING YOUR STARTING POINT YOU GO %100 THROTTLE INPut. You want to set your smoke level as WOT. This will give you the most resolution in your throttle movement. IE: if you truck maxes out fueling at %30 throttle, what's the point of the other %70 of throttle movement. Make %100 fuel %100 throttle. Good starting points per injector size ***use only as a guide you will need to go through some trial and error. 50 hp injectors %95 100 hp injectors %90 150 hp injectors %85 200 hp injectors %80 250 hp injectors %75 300 hp injectors %70 Once you have found a good starting point Set your 0 PSI % to this power reduction % and set your Power Reduction scale to a % that you want to allow for a valet mode or antitheft or emissions or whatever for reduced power. Step 2. Set Quad to Power LVL3 Once you have a good starting point defined for 0 psi scaling increase every % by 1 as you move up in psi. As you hit 10-15 psi you can move up by 2 or 3 % per psi until you max out at ~%130. You will notice that the Canbus HP limit is somewhere around %130 depending on the truck and the mods. This should give you a good base fueling map to fine tune your truck by. Step 3. Once you have your base map do some 0-%50 APPS take off's on LVL3 only. Pay attention to Boost numbers and smoke output. a video camera is very helpful. ENSURE YOU ARE NOT AROUND OTHER DRIVERS OR PEOPLE WHEN DOING THIS!!!!!! You may notice puffs of smoke as PSI climbs, reduce the % at that psi point by 1 if smoke is too much. If the truck feels laggy at a given PSI increase by %1 until your truck feels good. Keep in mind that smoke from the tailpipe may cause flooding of the turbo. A truck will respond best when there is a slight haze under high throttle input. Don't be afraid to use high TPS input to get the truck moving. That is what the throttle pedal is for! Tweak your 0-30 settings until you are happy with how the truck drives on LVL3 Step 4. Once you have your CANbus tuning done move to wiretap tuning. Wiretap fueling will increase power significantly when it is used. Depending on your wants you can set low limit fueling for wiretap. This will allow for smoke reduction when wiretap comes on. Set your low limit for a PSI that is above your normal DD / cruising PSI. IE if you drive to work every day and don't normally hit 10 psi set your low limit above 10 psi. If you want wiretap fueling when you typically drive set the low limit below that. I would not recommend setting this below 5psi as smoke control is much harder. Remember low limit allows for wiretap scaling below that point. TPS min also comes into play so set your pump TPS min at a point that makes sense for your driving style / needs Step 5. Timing tuning is a little tricky and should not be taken lightly. I suggest that you keep your timing tuning configured as 1500 max: 14* 2000 max: 18* 2500 max: 22* 3000 max: 25* max: 26* UNLESS you have time to do a good amount of data logging and figure out what is best for your truck. Keep in mind that aggressive timing can cause issues. The above should be considered very safe on pretty much any truck. OEM timing will hit 26* in stock form. What you will find however is under the curve power will be improved by adjusting these settings. Step 6. Once you have set your low limit for Wiretap fueling set your scaling. This scaling will set how much wiretap fueling is added before the low limit is reached. If you want no wiretap before the low limit set this to %0, if you want half set this to %50 and so forth. Typically I leave this between %15 and %25 depending on how aggressive you want the truck to feel when DD'ing the truck. Setting this % higher will increase smoke output off idle. ******************************************************************************************************************************************************** Section 3: Custom Tunes based upon Injector size Visit this thread for a list of Users custom tunes. https://mopar1973man.com/topic/12002-quadzilla-v2-custom-tunes/ This has some pre built tunes for various setups and needs https://mopar1973man.com/forum/185-standard-quadzilla-adrenaline-tunes/ Here are videos showing before and after the V2 tuning If you find this helpful throw a donation my way. %95 of the things I do in regards to Quadzilla are to support the community and I receive no payment for the work. Thanks - Me78569 ]

The Full Parts list can be seen below, or you can use the links to filter to the section needed. You can find any PN needed for a Late 2nd Gen Dodge Ram Cummins Powered Truck. A lot of parts are shared between the year, but please ensure you check that the part works for your year if we don't have a PDF for your specific truck. Diagrams are in place for each section. some of the main categories are featured in the drop down menu. These should all be Dodge specific Part Numbers. Exterior & Panels Go To Mopar Accessories Go To Frame & Bumper Go To Exterior Panels Go To Emblems Go To Exterior Doors This should work for all late 2nd Gen Dodge Ram Trucks, 2500 and 3500 for 2001, 2002. VP44 Cummins Part Numbers included.