Mopar1973Man

Hmmm... At least you back to some normal numbers. I wonder if the station your buying from is adding more cetane booster and anti-gel themselves... Several station up here hide 52 gallon barrels behind lock fences or behind the store with additives... Look at the lower right corner...(Good ol' paint thinner)

Well partitioning the drive will not change the fact that when BIOS ask the hard drive how big the drive is it will report the full size of the drive regardless of the partitions on the drive. So that what the tool does is force the drive to report a smaller number to the BIOS at boot time so the drive is accepted by the motherboard. Now the only thing that missing in that information is who makes the motherboard? I know its a 939 socket motherboard which I know is out of date... I can't even buy 939 processor from my dealer... Another idea is if you can find the anufacture of the motherboard you could go check there web site and Acer web site for a BIOS flash hoping maybe to extend the motherboard ability for larger drives.

Good post ISX... I'll toss 2 cents into this post too. I've found another flaw in the oil pressure gauge on the Cummins. Say I start up cold and the pressure to the high side of normal as it warms up the pressure falls down just above 40 PSi on the gauge while driving and idles just a tad under the 40 PSI mark. Now just idling I can look at my ScanGauge II showing 850 or so RPM's and now kick my ECT fooler the coolant temp gauge falls to 123*F on the ScanGauge but the oil pressure goes right back up to the high mark like the engine cold but the RPM's never really changed... Like I told ISX I need to make a short video of this.

Yeah... Head over to the Seagate site and pick up that DOS tool. It will check the motherboard to hard drive communication anf verify the hard drive for problems. There is even tools to limit the drive to a small er size to aid with BIOS problems.

I personally haven't seen on screw on to the VP44 test port yet... But I've seen people change out that banjo bolt for a tapped banjo bolt and put the valve on that...

Very well put... But is true... 15 PSI will crakc open the overflow valve and allow the fuel to flow on the return side and aid in cooling...

I bet money on the isolator is screwing up the reading I bet if you made a temporary connection directly you'll find a whole different set of numbers...

Actually it like all thing on the market Cummins and Dodge both bid for manufacture that are the cheapest to supply part and Federal Mogul (Carter) happen to be the lowest bid at the time. They most like test drove the truck for a short time and was happy with it and then it hit the market... Like a lot of people are quoting Blue Chip for 5 PSI is more than enough fuel for the VP44... Yeah sure that when you take a new pump put in on the test stand for a few hours and disassemble the pump. Nope no wear must be ok... Now try that on a VP44 mounted in a truck and put it through its paces for 700K to 1 million miles I doubt it will barely make 50K miles and puke like mine did...

I never worried about bleeding the line but you can of you want. But over time you'll get air bubble back in the line from doing other fuel system work...

I would head over to SeaGate web site and pick up the SeaTools and run the DOS version to check the hard drive status... http://www.seagate.com/ww/v/index.jsp?locale=en-US&name=SeaTools&vgnextoid=720bd20cacdec010VgnVCM100000dd04090aRCRD

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/performance_sm/bully_dog~fuel_pump~performance.html Your better off with a Raptor from AirDog... Raptor is at least designed for diesel fuel were the holley blue isn't and has several issues with running diesel fuel and lasting for a long time. I'm also sure you can buy a Holley blue for much less and then add a big line kit from Vulcan perofrmance and still come out cheaper...

Yes the SG II will clear codes in both computers... Yes.. The EZ is to blame for the MAP codes. I would unplug it and reset the codes and see if it returns.

So Ok... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219 Now the next question is how much fuel pressure do you have at #1 location?

Hmmm... That's odd to see a open connector like that... Usally Dodge had caps on them...

Yeah it quite the stuggle to get the IAT temps near 100*F with cold temps... Like here in 0*F weather is like 60*F even with winterfronts on... UGH!

Not bad ISX you got that right on the money... setting high idle from cold you only need the IAt fooler... After the high idle starts then flip it off... Now if going for high idle on a warm engine you must use the ECT fooler too to trigger it... But remember the high idle setting you use will remain till the engine is shut off... So if you set 3 cyl high on a cod morning and head to town and try setting 6 cyl high idle it will fall back to the 3cyl because it was last set mode. The way to reset this is to turn the engine off for a extend period of time (15 Mintues or so)

Yeah it got to be on the line to the #1 in that pic... The return line is not going to see pressure unless you pumping excessive amounts like about 20 on the supply side... So switch it around...

Dang... I wish I lived near you I'd be more than willing to plow your yard and roads out... But i'm a long ways from you Russ... Come on gang there is got to be someone near Russ that can help out??

I got one for you... My trip to town my pyrometer was floating about 400*F and about 2 PSI of boost at 55-60 MPH. By the time I hit town SGII was showing my Today MPG at 38.9 MPG after traveling 15 miles. I did my business and had for home back the same 15 miles. Cruise set for 55 MPH and my boost was varying about 7-10 PSI with pyrometer floating 800-1000*F still average out at 21.2 MPG... Funny what a tail wind to town and then a nasty head wind home will do with 30 miles... I've gotten so good I can pinch good number even with bad weather...

Hey gang... I figured I would share what software I use for tracking my maintenance for my truck. I'm using Automotive Wolf it a very simple software to use that reminds you of the maintenance you need to do on your vehicles... so here is a screen shot of my current work load... Yeap I need to get out to the shop and take care of the beast... But here is where you can buy it at... http://www.lonewolf-software.com/automotivewolf.htm

I tapped the illumination lead on the stereo adapter for my Kenwood stereo. The lead is un-used so why not... Thinking of maintenance I need to check my logs... :rolleyes2:

Well as for the fuel issue the VP44 can draw its own fuel but hates like hell to do it. So since there is little to no fuel pressure there isn't anything to advance the timing cam plate so it stays in full retard mode... Hence the lack of power... I would hook up a realy just for safety sake. The ECM is what powers the lift pump directly. So if the current load gets to much then the ECM might fry... Well you did the right thing then... But I doubt you'll have a problem with a FASS pump... But I would take the time next and get a 0-30 PSI fuel pressure gauge and hook it up if you don't already have one...

I've had my tank out 2 times now and can do a fuel sender change in under 1 hour... That includes pumping the tank dry, pulling the carrier bearing, filler hose, unscrew the sender nut and then drop the 2 fuel tank straps... Bam! it on the floor... I got smart thuogh... I bought the beer and invited a friend over to help me... He said here hold my beer and check this out... Funny part was it went in really easy I held the beer, the video camera, and watched...

Holy Moly... Geez what are you doing with that truck ISX???

That's rather cool looking without any fastener on the face... But I wonder how long the carpet tape is going to hold up to rain and wind... I guess time will tell... You could take in my idea of the bolt and fender washer... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=437 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=436