Mopar1973Man

Another fault of XP... XP requires tuning of the RWin and Packet sizes to get the most out of the network. Like myself I got to tune all my older XP machine to run good against the network and DSL. But now fire up my Vista machine and the TCP/IP stack is self tuned and does quite well. I just love how most bad rap Vista got... It actually good software and works excellent... I got to admit vista fixed a bunch of faults and failures XP had... You might be wondering how many computers I might have??? :confused: 5200 AMD - Vista 64 - 4 GB Ram (My Flagship)Sony Viao Laptop - 800 Duron AMD - 128 MB Ram (My old Laptop)2400 AMD - Win XP - 1 GB Ram (Mom's Computer)1200 AMD - Win XP - 1 GB Ram (Shop Computer)

Well any code reader will do but the more money you put out the more abilities it will have. Like live data and few other things...

:thumbsup: Not bad... Here is what I've got under the hood...:eek: Also take note that I'm slightly over-clocked too... Core speed should be 2700 MHz and Bus Speed 200 MHz...

Wow! That pic is huge... As for Win XP is not exactly a great OS system for multi-core processors. So if you upgraded to Vista 64 bit or Win 7 64 Bit it will be able to spread it a bit better. But as for Win XP go back to the task manager and select the process tab then Right click the process you want to adjust/check. Then select Set Affinity. The you be able to set or select which core will do work. Now remember some software also don't understand multi-core processor either so they will select 1 core and that's it... I got a few video processing software older ones that tend to only load up on one core and not spread out. (Win XP software).

I always thougt of it the same way... But when your marking your driveway and leaving a trail of oil I think it time to look into the blow-by issue.

Is there any way of killing it or clean up? Curious...:confused:

For 2000-2002 Year Trucks (For Owners Without Code Readers) Insert your ignition key. Turn it to the OFF position. Now turn it ON, OFF, ON, OFF, ON in less than 5 seconds. Leave it in the on position. In the odometer display it should start to display codes. It starts with P PCU errors. This is to notify you that the error codes are coming. They would show up as Pnnnn. All error codes are listed in 4 digits. Write down all Pnnnn error codes that are displayed. P Done will notify that P PCU error code list is done. Now we display P ECU errors. This is to notify you that the error codes are coming. They would show up as Pnnnn. All error codes are listed in 4 digits. Write down all Pnnnn error codes that are displayed. This is notify that P ECU error code list is done. Now turn your key off. Here is a demonstration of it. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=7XQJmaIF9Do Now take notice to the error codes displayed. Powertrain Control Module (P PCU)Engine Control Module (P ECU)P0500 - Speed Sensor Error P1693 - Companion CodeP0236 - Boost Too High Too Long P1693 - Companion Code Now notice the P1693 popped twice. There is a reason for it. Like if you have an error in the ECM then the P1963 will be displayed in the PCM. If there is a error in the PCM then the P1693 will be displayed in the ECM. Now in my case I had errors on both side so the P1693 was displayed on both modules to alert you that there is errors in both. Always make sure you see P Done Twice! It really common to see on the forums where some says "Oh my I got a P1693 and that's it" It's impossible to have just a P1693 error code by itself. So more that likely the owner saw the P Done and shut the key off and didn't allow for the ECM to display its errors. Also read my thread over at CumminsForum.Com concerning this issue... http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/139687-p1693-codes-solo.html For 1998-2002 Year Trucks (For All Code Readers) The PCM and ECM monitor many different circuits in the powertrain system. If the ECM or PCM senses a problem with a monitored circuit often enough to indicate an actual problem, it stores a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) in the ECM’s or PCM’s memory. With certain DTC’s, if the problem is repaired or ceases to exist, the ECM or PCM cancels the code after 40 warm-up cycles. Certain other DTC’s may be cancelled after 1 or 2 good “trips”. Refer to Trip Definition. DTC’s that affect vehicle emissions illuminate the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL). The MIL is displayed as an engine icon (graphic) on the instrument panel. Refer to Malfunction Indicator Lamp. Certain DTC’s will set a “P1693 companion DTC” in the opposite control module. This means that after repair, the DTC must be erased from both modules. Certain criteria must be met before the ECM or PCM will store a DTC in memory. The criteria may be a specific range of engine RPM, throttle opening, engine temperature or input voltage. The ECM or PCM might not store a DTC for a monitored circuit even though a malfunction has occurred. This may happen because one of the DTC criteria for the circuit has not been met. For example, assume the DTC criteria requires the ECM to monitor the circuit only when the engine operates between 750 and 2000 RPM. Suppose the sensor’s output circuit shorts to ground when engine operates above 2400 RPM (resulting in 0 volt input to the ECM). Because the condition happens at an engine speed above the maximum threshold (2000 rpm, the ECM will not store a DTC. There are several operating conditions for which the ECM and PCM monitors and sets DTC’s. Refer to Monitored Systems, Components, and Non-Monitored Circuits. Technicians must retrieve stored DTC’s by connecting the DRB scan tool (or an equivalent scan tool) to the 16–way data link connector (Fig. 3). Refer to the Diagnostic Trouble Code chart (list). Remember that DTC’s are the results of a system or circuit failure, but do not directly identify the failed component or components. Various diagnostic procedures may actually cause a diagnostic monitor to set a DTC. For instance, disconnecting a relay or removing an electrical connector while the engine is running. When a repair is completed and verified, connect the DRB scan tool to the 16–way data link connector to erase all ECM and PCM DTC’s and extinguish the MIL. Diagnostic Trouble Code Listing Diagnostic Trouble Code chart (PDF File) Self Erasing Of Error Codes Trip Indicator The Trip is essential for running monitors and extinguishing the MIL. In OBD II terms, a trip is a set of vehicle operating conditions that must be met for a specific monitor to run. All trips begin with a key cycle. Good Trip The Good Trip counters are as follows: ● Specific Good Trip ● Fuel System Good Trip ● Misfire Good Trip ● Alternate Good Trip (appears as a Global Good Trip on DRB III) ● Comprehensive Components ● Major Monitor ● Warm-Up Cycles Specific Good Trip The term Good Trip has different meanings depending on the circumstances: ●If the MIL is OFF, a trip is defined as when the Oxygen Sensor Monitor and the Catalyst Monitor have been completed in the same drive cycle. ● If the MIL is ON and a DTC was set by the Fuel Monitor or Misfire Monitor (both continuous monitors), the vehicle must be operated in the Similar Condition Window for a specified amount of time. ● If the MIL is ON and a DTC was set by a Task Manager commanded once-per-trip monitor (such asthe Oxygen Sensor Monitor, Catalyst Monitor, Purge Flow Monitor, Leak Detection Pump Monitor, EGR Monitor or Oxygen Sensor Heater Monitor), a good trip is when the monitor is passed on the next startup. ● If the MIL is ON and any other emissions DTC was set (not an OBD II monitor), a good trip occurs when the Oxygen Sensor Monitor and Catalyst Monitor have been completed, or two minutes of engine run time if the Oxygen Sensor Monitor and Catalyst Monitor have been stopped from running. Fuel System Good Trip To count a good trip (three required) and turn off the MIL, the following conditions must occur: ● Engine in closed loop ● Operating in Similar Conditions Window ● Short Term multiplied by Long Term less than threshold ● Less than threshold for a predetermined time If all of the previous criteria are met, the PCM will count a good trip (three required) and turn off the MIL. Misfire Good Trip If the following conditions are met the PCM will count one good trip (three required) in order to turn off the MIL: ● Operating in Similar Condition Window ● 1000 engine revolutions with no misfire Warm-Up Cycles Once the MIL has been extinguished by the Good Trip Counter, the PCM automatically switches to a Warm-Up Cycle Counter that can be viewed on the DRB III. Warm-Up Cycles are used to erase DTCs and Freeze Frames. Forty Warm-Up cycles must occur in order for the PCM to self-erase a DTC and Freeze Frame. A Warm-Up Cycle is defined as follows: ● Engine coolant temperature must start below and rise above 160° F ● Engine coolant temperature must rise by 40° F ● No further faults occur

Specifications Here is a copy of the fuel system specifications from the Dodge Factory Service Manual. Fuel pressure Normal fuel pressure should float about 14-15 PSI running down the pavement. Should never fail below 10 PSI at all. Here is a colorized fuel pressure gauge to give you a clue of the fuel pressure span you want. You want the needle to stay in the green at all times. Yellow zone is a warning that you should check the fuel filter, lift pump performance, overflow valve, etc. This is undocumented maximum pressure is 20 PSI. Now take notice to the overflow valve is set for 14 PSI so excessive pumping of fuel does nothing for performance except create more heat for the fuel, which in turns reduces the cooling ability of the fuel and adds more stress to the lift pump. So a little extra fuel pressure is a good thing because it insures the VP44 stays cooled and lubricated properly. But excessive fuel pressure will heat the fuel and reduced the cooling ability of the fuel. Now always remember that the only lubrication the VP44 will see is the fuel itself so if you don't have enough fuel pressure it will cause damage to the VP44 injection pump. It's like the same as running the engine with low oil pressure it will continue to run but the damage to the engine will occur. Or in this case the VP44 which happens to be about $1,200 to replace. Pressure Drop Amount of fuel pressure drop between idle and wide open throttle. 2-3 PSI drop from idle to WOT is normal. But 5 PSI or more pressure drop from idle to WOT is pointing out a failed lift pump, plugged filter, and/or plumbing restrictions. 2-3 PSI Is NormalDropping more than 5 PSI is pointing towards a failed lift pump, plugged filter, or restrictive plumbing.Just to show you the difference in the stock plumbing which is 6mm ID plumbing and most performance pumps come with 1/2" ID plumbing. These pictures will give you a idea... First picture is a Big Line fitting over the top of the stock plumbing. Then the second picture compares the stock 6mm ID steel lines to a 1/2" ID Big Line hose. Here is a short video of stable fuel pressure from 55 MPH to 70 MPH at WOT. Cranking Pressure Test Here is a simple test on how to do the test for cranking fuel pressure. Pull the fuel pump relay in the PDC and then attempt to start the engine. Pay attention to the fuel pressure gauge during cranking. Be aware this test will trip a P1689 code and light the CHECK ENGINE light. Excessive cranking pressure can lead to difficult starting problems. Difficult Starting While Hot This problem is caused by a VP44 with a torn diaphram internally. This damage is typically caused from a VP44 that was operated at below 10 PSI for extended period of time. So technically you should replace the VP44 to repair the damage diaphram but most rig up a oil pressure switch or a starter delay relay. Here is my idea... This will cause the lift pump to remain off during the period of timing the starter is operating as soon as the key is released the lift pump will function normally and remain controlled by the ECM. Suggested Lift Pump Replacement You should replace the stock fuel system completely being that it cannot supply enough fuel for even stock requirements without causing damage to the VP44 injection or adding stress to the lift pump. The pumps I suggest are proven and come with a lifetime warranty. These pumps come with a full kit and replace everything from fuel tank to VP44. [*] AirDog 100, 150, or 165 [*]Raptor 100 or 150 [*]FASS 100 or 150 I don't suggest these pumps... Because they don't address the pump location, plumbing restrictions, or come with much of warranty. [*] Stock Carter or Carter Campaign Pump (4090046) [*]Holley Blue or Holley Black [*]FASS DDRP [*]AirTex

ABS Failure - Diagnostics Tips 4 Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System 2 Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (RWAL - Rear Wheel Anti-Lock) I find its really common to hear people complain about ABS and BRAKE lights being lit. There is a few simple things you can do to diagnose your problem. [*] Check your ABS fuses under the hood fuse #11 and check the #3 fuse inside the cab (driver side door jamb). Replace any that are blown. [*]Step on you brake pedal and see if the tail lights light up and turn off when released. If not repair the brake light switch. [*]Shift the transfer case into 4WD and check if the 4WD light comes on. (4WD equipped vehicles). If not repair the 4WD switch. [*]Does the speedometer work? If so the rear speed sensor in the differential is functional. So now that you done that much that means that it one of the front speed sensors that has either become disconnected or the sensor has failed. If the lights remain the only way I know to diagnose this correctly is at a Dodge dealer. They have the tools to hook up to the ABS computer and pull the error codes and tell you what has failed. Once you've repaired the problem you must drive the vehicle to reset the ABS and BRAKE lights. Also take the second and check the error codes on the ECM/PCM and reset any error codes. Description - CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) The Controller Antilock Brakes (CAB) is a microprocessor which handles testing, monitoring and controllingthe ABS brake system operation (Fig. 10). The CAB functions are: [*] Perform self-test diagnostics. [*]Monitor the RWAL brake system for proper operation. [*]Control the RWAL valve solenoids. NOTE: If the CAB needs to be replaced, the rear axle type and tire revolutions per mile must be programed into the new CAB. For axle type refer to Group 3 Differential and Driveline. For tire revolutions per mile,(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/TIRES - SPECIFICATIONS) . To program the CAB refer to the Chassis Diagnostic Manual. Operation - System Self-Test When the ignition switch is turned-on the microprocessor RAM and ROM are tested. If an error occurs during the test, a DTC will be set into the RAM memory. However it is possible the DTC will not be stored in memory if the error has occurred in the RAM module were the DTC’s are stored. Also it is possible a DTC may not be stored if the error has occurred in the ROM which signals the RAM to store the DTC. CAB Inputs The CAB continuously monitors the speed of the differential ring gear by monitoring signals generated by the rear wheel speed sensor. The CAB determines a wheel locking tendency when it recognizes the ring gear is decelerating too rapidly. The CAB monitors the following inputs to determine when a wheel locking tendency may exists: [*] Rear Wheel Speed Sensor [*]Brake Lamp Switch [*]Brake Warning Lamp Switch [*]Reset Switch [*]4WD Switch (If equipped) CAB Outputs The CAB controls the following outputs for antilock braking and brake warning information: [*] RWAL Valve [*]ABS Warning Lamp [*]Brake Warning Lamp P0500 Error Code - Explained Since 4 wheel antilock brakes rely on 2 front axle sensors and 1 rear wheel sensor. The CAB is watching the speed output from all 3 sensors at one time. So when on a slick surface like ice, gravel, wet pavement, etc. when you accelerate rapidly and cause the rear tires to spin the rear speed sensor jumps up in speed rapidly and the front 2 sensor could be at zero speed yet. So the CAB can't understand how the rear half of the truck is doing say 35 MPH and the front half is doing 0 MPH. POOF! P0500 code is thrown.

Here is the run down I send to people interested. The Williams sensor is a direct bolt on replacement and comes with the adapter harness so there is no cutting or splicing wires. Comes with instructions, it's easy to install. The price is $160 to your door,. I'm using priority mail for shipping that's 2-3 days anywhere in the US. If you want one, I'll Email you a paypal invoice to pay, you don't need a paypal account to use it. You can use a credit card to pay the invoice. Money order also works. Thanks Tim Contact Information Tim TMB Mechanical Services - Home Page Email: Timbom1976@aol.com Phone Number: (717) 577-1464 (Eastern Time)

The main issue with OEM crankcase vent is it is nothing more than a piece of hose mounted to the front of the gear case. The piece of hose elbows over the case and points down towards the ground. There are two versions of this crankcase. One involves a drip bottle mounted on the end of the hose and the other does not. A Technical Service Bulleting (TSB) was released on this issue as well: TSB (09-002-02 Crankcase Breather Overflow). This bulletin warns of potential of extreme loss of oil from a truck descending at to steep of a slope while off-roading. During this loss of oil, oil also has been known to scatter all over the engine and radiator. This scattering of oil causes the collection of dust and dirt in the face of the radiator. This collection causes overheating issues for your truck. Even in with normal use, the cases that include a breather bottle, can emit enough oil vapors make the radiator gunky with the collection dirt and dust. Another TSB on this issue is: TSB 09-02-00 (A Heavy Oil Or Fuel-Like Odor Coming From the Diesel Engine Compartment). This bulletin was written about the foul heavy oil smell after a oil change. Although it is normal for some brand of oils to have this heavy smell anyway. My own personal fix… To fix this issue, I personally created my own venting system for 2nd generation Cummins’ engines. Since my design I have never lost any oil while off-roading. When I first started creating my vent, I looked at one main simple principal. If the front of the truck is facing down hill, then the vent pipe end needs to be higher than the oil level at any angle. I did this by running the pipe up and over the top of the engine. Then I ran it back down the back side of the engine. So now, no matter how steep the hill, the end of the vent pipe will be higher. Since the end of the pipe is under the truck by the transmission, there are no problems with cooling or radiator plugging. The heavy oil smell is also gone since the pipe is now under the truck. I do not use rubber hose in my creation. Rubber heater hose will eventually break down and collapse. This will cause a build up of crankcase pressure and start oil leakage around seals, which is not a good thing! One other thing to be aware of if creating your own is the length of the vent. If the vent pipe is to long, it might start freezing the water vapor in the hose/pipe before it exits the pipe. This can once again cause problems with crankcase pressure Update April 25, 2009 - Vacuum Pump / Vacuum Lines It was brought to my attention from other members on forum sites that another cause for excessive oil blow by from the stock breather bottle is from the vacuum pump. If you happen to disconnect the vacuum line for servicing and forget to hook it back up the vacuum pump becomes a air compressor and pumping large amounts of air into the crankcase. This will make it appear that there is excessive blow by on the piston ring. So be sure to check your vacuum lines... Stock Crankcase Vent Mopar1973Man's Notes: Here is the result of leaving the stock crankcase vent in place and the problems it causes like overheating... Here is the story from Edcasey from Cummins forum at Should of lost my puke bottle a long ago

Any update on this? :confused:

There should be a o-ring on the vent cover did you try to replace that? Maybe its just all crushed down to the point it won't seal at straight up and down... :confused:

It might but you going to get flash codes... The flash codes system will flash the check engine light. Basically count the fllash then pause count the flashes again... Then long pause. This would be 1 number... Always a double digit... The problem with this system is that its very general in diagnostics... I'll fing the codes and get a copy of them posted for you...

Sound like its time to grab the ol' code reader and see what happen to the ol' Cirrus...

We talked on the phone for quite a while... I think that cummins2k is right for the most part... As long as your not using oil between oil changes and the oil is just a mist your fine. Like my own truck leaves just a bit of splatter on the bellhousing.

Hey has anyone had problems with reading error codes with a ScanGauge II? I'm kind of wondering about this. Being that I got one and had a guy stop me and ask about error codes on his 2001 Dodge Cummins. Well I did the scan with the SG II and came up with only 1 code a P0216 (yeah the death code). But the owner asked me if there was a way to do it without a scanner? So I should hime the key trick... Guess what??? The SG II missed a bunch of codes!!! PPCU - P1693, P0500, P1682 PECU - P0522, P0523, P0216, P1693... :ahh: Felt like a dumb arse standing in front of a guy with a tool I swear by that missed the entire boat load of codes...:eek: So have any of you had this occur with other readers or with your SG II?

Wh do you find this weird stuff???

There is 2 headlight fuses in the PDC... Then yes the headlight switch is on a circuit breaker in the headlight switch too.

Well I'm glad you got a solution to the problem. I'm also glad it not the dangerous stuff but still not good to live in that kind of environment...:eek:

That's what I've heard that Smarty pulls a bunch off but not exactly 100% of it... So the Rad Box is the only thing I know that kills it completely... :confused:

That doesn't seem to bother me a bit... I just use the trans to adjust how aggressive I want the exhaust brake to perform... Gear down and make it more aggressive and gear up and make it milder.

Hmmm... I would start over and try again... But get a different provider like GoDaddy.com or similar...

Pervs??? :confused: Why did you have to shut your site down? :rolleyes2:

Ok I went running through the house looking for my digital camera... The nran back through the house loking for AA batteries. Then got the dog outside to pop a few updated pics... He's alert and can travel up to 30 MPH... Don't try to out run him its a lost cause! :eek: