Mopar1973Man

If I'm not mistaken the oil feed comes off the vacuum pump feed line and heads up to the P-pump. So there should be a braided oil line that runs up to the P-pump that most likely have a banjo bolt holding it on. As for exactly where I'm not sure. I've never had the pleasure of working on a 12V 2nd gen yet...

Well gang I got a shot at doing starter contacts on a 5.9L Dodge Gasser Ram. As a matter of fact it rather easy to do just like the Cummins version but just smaller starter. The contacts were provided by my local NAPA store which I come to find out they ordered them from LarryB's http://startercontacts.com/ But it just remove the starter from the truck as usual and remove the 3 small screw on the solenoid cover. Now remove the spring loaded plinger contact and spring. Now that you remove that you can see the other 2 contact which are just bolted to the case. As you can see it just a matter of removing a few nuts and slipping the old contact out and slipping the new contact into place and reassembling the starter.

Boy that appears to be a nasty mold... :nono

AMSOil.... Ummm... Quad 4x4 http://quad4x4.com/NV4500%20Parts.htm (1/4 way down) Then you might want to read over some of the stuff... http://quad4x4.com/NV4500FAQ.htm Why does my NV4500 shift hard? There can be many causes of this phenomena with the most common being wrong or degraded lubricant. NV4500 series transmissions were specifically designed for use with Castrol Syntorq LT® GL4 rated synthetic gear lubricant. Most other gear lubricants will damage the carbon fiber surfaces on the synchronizer rings. Another problem related to shifting difficulty is failure of the pilot bearing. The stock pilot bearings used by Dodge and GM are needle bearings. Over time, these bearings have a tendency to run out of lubricant and disintegrate. This allows the front of the input shaft and clutch disc to "float" about. Erratic clutch performance and misalignment of the internal transmission components result. This combination often causes shifting problems. Heavy Duty Ball Bearings are available for Dodge Diesel applications New and newly rebuilt NV4500 transmissions may shift hard until the synchronizers wear in. At the other end of the spectrum, well used, high mileage transmissions with worn bearings and/or thrustwashers may shift hard or pop out of gear due to excessive mainshaft endplay Rebuilt transmissions with brass synchronizer rings often are hard to shift. Sometimes, changing the oil may help, however, in most cases you either have to install genuine New Venture rings or live with it. A clutch that does not fully disengage will make it hard or impossible to shift the transmission particularly into fist and reverse. Installing a new clutch usually is the trigger for this problem, but the clutch itself is almost never the culprit. A new clutch will require pretty close to the full travel of the clutch pedal to disengage. Sometimes it is a simple as removing an extra floor mat that the pedal bottoms against. Any internal wear in the hydraulic system or external wear in the under dash components, clutch fork, and/or fork pivot ball can cause inadequate disengagement. The solution is to replace or repair the guilty parts.

Opps... I had to look again... This is a P-pump truck... That is engine oil lubed so there could be few places it leaking from I would check the supply line...

You got to remember there is nearly another quart caught in the steering box and the hyro-booster...What I do is disconnect the return line from the PS pump and cap that nipple. The route the the return line back to a waste bucket. The start the ngine and rock the steering left or right till the pump runs dry. This only takes a few seconds and then shut down the engine. The re-fill and do again. I do this till the system is completely purged out. Then hook up the reutrn line and re-fill... This should help...

Here is some... http://www.vulcanperformance.com/category-s/252.htm Big Line Kit for 12V http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-S ... /12vfs.htm

Well another b-day down... I'd made it to 39 years old... :rolleyes

Thanks mod9... I tend to be a bit weak on the transmission stuff... But I'm going to dig a bit more to see if I can find more info...

I still think the front side of the mirrors is your best bet...

If your cranking voltage is below 10.5 Volts then the batteries or supply cables could be to blame. You might check the starter contacts... As a matter of fact give me a bit of time I'll get pics of my Mom's starter thats pulled apart. Its a gasser starter but the contacts are the same setup..

Check the ground for that circuit... The ground is behind the starter and the only way to verify this is to remove the starter. So if you got the time to pull it out and check... That all I can think off... You might end up hooking a relay up that triggered by the key and get the pump going... There is something wrong with the ECM feed... It should pulse up and down 12V - 0V - 12V - 0V... Maybe you DVM is slow to update the fast pulses? :confused:

As you can see there is only the ECM controlling the fuel pump circuit.

There should be modulated power being sent to the lift pump in pulses (ON/OFF/ON) while cranking. You might check with a test light if you can.You said the lift pump is stock correct? And hooked to the stock connector right? :confused:

Great... Nice to know a bit of exhaust work gave you a small gain but it worth it... :D

Ok... Lets go over this carefully... Watch the video on testing starting pressure... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCJjMzRImpA The 3 pound drop is marginal and so is the 11 PSI at 70 MPH... It possible the P0216 is caused from the low pressure. But I would suggest you at least upgrade to the Vulcan Big Line Kit... http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-S ... ps9804.htm

Let me know how it turns out... I've got the old school drawstraw and so far no big problems here I can drive down to 1/8 tank without much issues...

You must be a one in a million...If it was me I would grab a 1/2" Impact and drive that sucker on...If you got a strap wrench to hold the pulley and drove the nut on you should be good...

Well thanks... That hell of a comment there... 8| LOL :Lmao

Hmmm... It could be cracked nipple or a bad O-ring...So maybe it might be a good idea to do the drawstraw... I gather you going to do the fuel module one right? :confused:

The best I can say is the case has to be removed from the truck and the case split open to change a chain... (reading throught the Dodge FSM Page 21-890 or 2525 page of Adobe). As for the Dodge FSM. http://pdftown.com/Dodge-Ram-2001-Service-Manual.html

LOL I love your "Girl in a Box" LOL As for the velro idea... I seem to be caught up in it... But I always got about 1 foot of velcro stuck to the inside lid of my center console so no matter what I'm doing I can grab a chunk of velcro and stick something to the dash or other wise... :rolleyes I should be the velcro king... ;)

Hmmm... I might not be a bad spot to put them on the arm of the mirror. Like you said the snaking part of the wiring is the tough part... Those mirros I would love to have right about now... ;)

Another idea is to go to a motorcycle shop and look at aftermarket fairing turn signals. There are several different style of tear drop turn signal out that are small enough for like a mirror setup or such... As for snaking wiring out... That might be fun... The door panels have to come off and the mirrors should have a hollow on the bottom. Now are the mirrors power adjustable? if so then the mirrors have leads running into them. So that means you could fish 1 or 2 wires into the mirrors and hook up you lights... I've got a clue about the mirror after my damage I'd done to my truck 2 years ago... (Pulled a tree down on the passenger side)... Take notice the mirror is gone and the pretty dent... `

Most liekly like a hot spot on a flywheel.It would be interesting to mic it and see what was occuring. Also I wonder if the rotor had formed harden spots in it (work hardened)? :confused: