Mopar1973Man

Yeap he's a vendor here...:thumbsup: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/member.php?u=32

What I'm finding is optimal intake temp should be around 90*F to 110*F... I've got a winter front on but with -10*F weather I barely see 50*F in the intake and it gettin way too cold and MPG's are suffering... :shocked:

The chip market is a mixed bag really... There is a lot of claims but hard to prove any of them... But like myself using the Edge Comp and running it wide open and keeping the boost low and the pyro low I'm turning 21-22 avg MPG and 25 max MPG. Like mild 1/8" inch aluminum... Like a old road sign would work awesome... It's the advanced timing...

Well since I bought my truck new I've been running Exxon XD-3 15w-40 for nearly 100K miles and then switched to Rotella for a round and OMG! I now know why the nickname RoSmella... Then Start hunting for Chevron Delo 15w-40 Which my buddy has been using in his truck for over 600K miles and still going... Buty even with all petroluem based products in my truck I reach 25 MPG for a MAX and aveage 21-22 MPG..

Comes back to the basics... You need to find out what the error codes are... and what you fuel pressure is like... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/fuel-pressure/fuel-pressure.htm http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm

I got a template for the a BHAF heatshield... Go to the BHAF link... With a BHAF it will last longer up to 5 years.... The air flow is increased because of it size.

It might be a wise idea to take this a step farther and teach about the independent part and how they function too. Like the one that comes to mind that is commonly talked about is injectors (not buy and selling) but the actual mechanical function of a injector and how it does it job...

your just like me I hate just excepting the typical forum information unless it backed up with a few tidbit of information. That basically how the static web pages got built I kept compiling the information as the tidbits came to me...

Wow! ISX... So far you got my attention that really good and killer right write for the 12V's... I know taz had looked at it and been reading it a bunch. Keep going... I might have to steal this and add it to the static page write ups. Then I might to cut and paste chunks of this for the 24V side too...

Most all 2 cycle oil today is ashless... TCW3... Hmmm... The only thing to consider is looking at the pour point of snowmobile 2 cycle oil over pour point of engine oil. I think ther pour point of snow mobile oil is much lower and help protect against gelling. Fuel filters for 2nd Gen 24V are rated for 12K to 15K miles (every other oil change). As for my AirDog 150 I'm going 30K miles between filters and there not stock 10 micron filters they are 2 micron fleetguards... Now I do have the stock filter housing and element and so far the stock filter is still clean!

Well its 4:30am and the temp bottom out at 8*F here... (Dang cold)

Truely the only difference between DN 30W engine oil and and 2 cycle oil is ASH content. Ash is the naturally occuring metal that are in the oil. When burnt the deposits can collect on injectors and pistons. But since you running like Centinel you well below Cummins limit of 5% volume of oil.

Some of the basic parts you need... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=10 IAT Mode switch on the left. ECT fooler and the right. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=9 Completed setup of switches... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=11 Simple version... The ECT plug (The lead going back to the ECM) need to wired to the center lugs of the switch. The ECT sensor (The lead going to the sensor) gets wired to the left lugs. The ECT fooler resistor get soldered to the right lugs. The IAT Plug (The lead going back to the ECM) gets wired to the IAT fooler switch center lugs The IAT sensor (The lead going to the sensor) gets wired to the left lugs. The right lugs gets a pair of leads going to the IAT mode switch center lugs. (2nd pic left switch)

When I get home from work I'll dig up some more pics of the setup... It really not that hard at all... :rolleyes2:

Cold weather is continuing... We are starting our morning at 7am at 8*F... Brrrrrr!

Hop over to my book pile... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=cat&id=2 Download the Dodge FSM for 2001 there is pics of the PCM plug and pinouts...:thumbsup:

Here is a way to set the high idle 3 cylinder forcefully... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=64 Just stick a 56K ohm resistor in the socket and have your engine coolant below 140*F and high idle 3 cylinder will start.

On my Mom's 96 there was a box of BB's dumped on the dash by the previous owner and the BB's went every where. 2 BB's got stuck in the vacuum motor for the fresh air/recirculate door. It wore a hole in the diaphram and cause it to behavor wildly. When the BB landed in the right spot it would seal the hole and allow the door to work. Then if the truck hit a bump and BB moved then the door wouldn't function. The sad part was the vacuum motor cost $80 bucks from the dealer and required the dah to be pulled loose enough to slide the passenger side against the seat to get just enough room to replace the motor... Still a afternoon project...

I've got those now... (Older version) http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/gauges/gauges.htm

Well an Update to the cold weather warning... So far we started out at a low of 15*F and made a total high of 24*F and started to fall again. Once again fi you have a vehicle I suggest using your block heater and getting into shelter.

Well here you go... Check over the manufacture contact and look at the many choices you got and choose wisely... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/manufacture/manufacture.htm

Ummm... Errr... Ummm... full dash removal most likely... But I might get lucky and be able to fish ro remove stuff and see in to them...:confused:

Well as far as I understand the grid heaters are controlled by the PCM under the hood near the battery. The IAT sensor sense the intake temps and desides if the grid heaters are needed. Now I know th key trick works on the 1st gens and will display a flash code on the CHECK ENGINE light. I'll get ahold of Taz and find out what wires are hooked to the relays...

Sure... Normal Idle Cold ----------------------- 200*F (0% Load) High 6 Cylinder Idle -------------------- 250*F (0% Load) High 6 Cylinder Idle with Exhaust Brake - 400*F (1% Load) High 3 Cylinder Idle -------------------- 450*F (10-15% Load) high 3 cylinder Idle with Exhaust Brake - 850*F (33% Load) Shaocker how loading the engine help create heat...:thumbsup:

Strange part about you vacuum problem I think it going to be in the cab... Being the axle seem to be working for the most part... But the vents might have a bad vacuum motor? Something jaming the door? :confused: