Mopar1973Man

If your getting fuel for even 5 cylinders it should start... Because Cummins has a 3 cylinder high idle mode for winter time operation so it will run on 3 cylinders if there is enough fuel. So my money is on the the fact you might have a dead VP44...

Yes you must tap the wire... Edge Comp fuels with normal de-fueling (2,700 RPM) Edge Drag Comp fuels all the way to 3,200 RPM (redline). Edge Juice (Hot) will act just like Edge Drag Comp Adrenaline I'm not sure of... I'm pretty sure there is a setting/program to all it. I think the Smarty does it too. BD Has a box too... http://www.dieselperformance.com/index. ... /index/43P

1. Error Codes? 2. Fuel pressure? (Bad lift pump, air leak, etc) 3. Fuel filter?

No crank? You mean it would even turn?Battery cablesSolenoid fuse (In PDC under the hood)Solenoid relayStarter contacts

Actually you need to more the governor forward to 4K to defeat the curve. Redline box, Edge Drag Comp, Quadzilla Adrenaline, etc have ability to move the governor red line. But typically the Cummins 24V starts de-fueling at roughly 2,700 all the way to 3,200 RPM redline.

24V engines are different in appearance... But 24V started in 98.5 and went to 2002... Simple way of figureing it out...Does it look like this? (24 Valve engine)

Order of importance... 1. Fuel pressure (0-30 PSI) - Without a fuel pressure gauge you can ruin your VP44 injection pump. 2. Pyrometer (0-1,600*F) - Without a pyrometer and towing you can exceed 1,200*F rather quickly even with a stock engine... 3. Boost pressure (0-35 PSI) - Good to keep track of the boost has a direct bearing on Pyro Temps. 4. Trans Temp - Protect your trans from overheating... I don't hear of many problem in this catagory... You can order a 3 place a-pillar and a steering column single pod.

Sounds like a air leak in the fuel system...Fuel pressure gauge would point out a bunch of this problem... But as for finding the leak I would pressureize the fuel tank with 1-2 PSI of air and look for wet spots.

Yeah just trip another code and reset the codes...

Try some of my vendors on the forum page there or check out... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/dealers/dealers.htm http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/manufacture/manufacture.htm

He's about right on the money... 1. Fuel pressure? http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/lift-pump-diag/lift-pump-diag.htm 2. Air Leaks (Low pressure system including return lines) 3. Overflow valve http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/overflow-valve/overflow-valve.htm

It would but they don't allow for Live data stream viewing like the ScanGauge does... Hmmm.... That's odd... Most parts stores can get the MAP sensors for Cummins... Verify it closely before you buy it...

Hmmm... Wally world 2 cycle is about $11 bucks a gallon... But someone found that Valvoline is better than SuperTech (PenzOil)...

Here is what I'm using and love it... work really good... www.scangauge.com

Hmmm... I've not had a problem yet... My wastegate is fre as a bird... I don't even have rust on my turbo yet. :confused:

Typically...190*F to 200*F is normal. Running hard and heavy with the Edge Comp cranked up... I've seen 208*F a few times...

Would be a good idea to replace the sensor while the pump is out... :smart

Time for a new MAP sensor...Cleaning rarely every fixes a error code problemed sensor...

Actually I seen a Ford running JP-8 or jet fuel. He's running about 1.5 to 2 quarts of 2 cycle oil. But he's getting the JP-8 free so the only cost he's got is the 2 cycle oil. Here is the orignal source... http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/FAQ/di ... oved_fuels

I'm running the BHAF from VulcanPerformance... It only cost $40 bucks... It lasted 5 years and 102K miles so far of dust dirt roads. The turbo and intake is clean! http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/bhaf/bhaf.htm And the link to VulcanPerformance... http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Search ... earch=BHAF

Ok... Here is the low down on filters...The whole CAI (Cold air intake) is over rated. The fact that colder air does produce more HP/TQ but there is a couple of problems.1. The turbocharger will heat the air as it pressurized. So it up to the intercooler to cool it back down.2. There is a coolant passage in the manifold that re-heats the air.Now the 2nd one I studied heavily. The fact is the IAT temp start out the same as outside air temp while the engine is cold so as the coolant temp rises the IAT temp will start to rise over outside air temp. Then it typically settles at about +40*F over outside air temp. It doesn't matter if you have a pipe all the way to the grill, stock air box or BHAF without a heat shield it remain the same rule. +40*F over outside air temps at 195*F worth of coolant.So now looking at the filter media... I'm not fond of any kind of oiled filter because of the fact like you pointed out that if you can see pin holes that means dirt can get thorugh. Not to mention if you wash the filter the wrong way you can litterally push the dirt to the other side of the filter and allow the engine to suck it in next time. Now the BHAF is a completely seal filter media. It a dry media that does require washing, oiling, etc. I've cleared over 102K miles on mine and still going. I installed my filter minder in the head of the filter and it not moving yet. But I do test the filter minder and its still working fine...Now a MPG secret I found... If the IAT sensor rises above 100*F the MPG jump upwards towards 21-23 MPG's! So is colder air really needed??? :confused:

I need to remove the lead out of my boot and slow down again. My Cooper STT tire got me knocked down to about 15-16 MPG hauling around here locally with firewood. Then it don't help running nearly full throttle 80-85 MPH to fire shed for fire calls. Yeap we have about 6 fire locally and a nasty thunder storm coming in tonight here. 8| So I listening to ther radio closely. So the whole idea of me pushing for high mPG is just insane right now but it sure hurts the pocket when MPG are down. So to aid in my adventure... I'm going to switch out my Coopers STT for my Big O AT's, then try to keep my speed down to 55 MPH unless its a fire call... Then if I got to haul up forestry roads us my ATV for that... LOL

Wow that great... Now we got a baseline gain /loss figure... :thumbsup Keep up the testing I want to see more! :D :smart

Same setup... Works good don't it??

Yeap you going to need both the error codes and fuel pressure... ;)