Mopar1973Man

1. Mechanical Gauge 2. DiPricol 3. No you can't buy one... Because its a old school Dipricol that's been photoshop'ed! Here is the actual gauge... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/gauges/gauges.htm

Audio drivers (Vista 64) http://www.softwarepatch.com/utilities/ac97-realtek-driver-vista.html

40 warm up cycles will clear a code. Warm-Up Cycles Once the MIL has been extinguished by the Good Trip Counter, the PCM automatically switches to a Warm-Up Cycle Counter that can be viewed on the DRB III. Warm-Up Cycles are used to erase DTCs and Freeze Frames. Forty Warm-Up cycles must occur in order for the PCM to self-erase a DTC and Freeze Frame. A Warm-Up Cycle is defined as follows: ● Engine coolant temperature must start below and rise above 160° F ● Engine coolant temperature must rise by 40° F ● No further faults occur

Ok you might want to head over to the User CP and fill out you Signature... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/profile.php?do=editsignature Since your going for high performance your going to have to do some learning and research. Like the quadzilla Adrenaline is good for 150 HP maxed out which will just about max out a stock turbo for boost. (35 PSI for HX-35) Now additional fuel with injection is going to add heat so your going to have consider a upgrade turbo charger. Now you create a slightly different problem the head gasket can hold till about 40-50 PSI then POP! So be aware you might have to consider ARP studs too to keep the stock head gasket from blowing out. I hear that most can get up to about 100 HP injector with a chip and use the chip to control the amount of fuel. Or you got to control the heat with your foot. For everyday driver I found that a limit of about 400-450 HP is good for a daily driver without much issues.

Dan your fuel puel should stay in the green zone... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=231 55 MPH to 70 MPH WOT... [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRoZlLVVxiY]YouTube- Stable fuel pressure - AirDog 150[/ame] So your pressure fall is pointing towards line resriction or just lack of volume from the pump... I would consider next the Vulcan Big Line Kit. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-Straw-II-1-2-in-draw-tube-and-1-2-in-pushlo-p/vpps9804.htm At that rate you so close to the AirDog 150...

Sorry to say your going to have to measure. You can't drop a full gallon of 2 cycle oil in an expect to get 4 full tanks of fuel. When I stop for fuel I pump in the amount of fuel and then add 1 oz of oil for every 1 gallon of fuel pumped so if I pumped 14 gallons then I add 14 ozs of 2 cycle oil. I keep a old quart with windows strip pour from a 1 gallon container. 4 years of this I'm still going no injector problems, no injection pump problems... (110 K miles) 75K miles of 2 cycle oil and all 6 injectors look good. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=178

This is not true with a Cummins... The ECM will only lose the APPS setting as for the CEL light and error code it must meet the requirements to reset the light and clear codes (self erase). http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm (bottom of page) This is why it bugs me to no end hearing everyone saying "Oh just disconnect your batteries to reset codes". I know without a doubt this is not possible on a 98.5 to 2002 Dodge Cummins. But it might create a new error code. Which will be the P0121, P0122 or a P0123 because the limits of the APPS sensor was lost... There is only 2 way to erase a error code... [*]OBDII coder reader with a reset ability [*]Allowing the vehicle to self erase by meeting the conditions to self erase. So with this being said... All electronic vehicles have a particular re-learn method (after the batteries have been disconnected) for each vehicle. As for the 98.5 to 2002 is just the APPS sensor everything else remains stored on the computer(s).

Its all right here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/apps.htm

Well... I had a go to Taz's house to give him a hand with his truck and computer. But since this computer stuff... Taz's computer is a AMD 3.0 GHz with 1 GB of RAM 2 40 GB and 1 200 GB hard drive for a total of 3 drives. Well the strange part was it was rebooting randomly and behaving poorly. Well I tried reloading the Window to it to repair the issue and found that the main 200 GB hard drive was present but not functioning propely. What I mean by this is the drive was present in the BIOS boot time but the drive won't not read, write or format... So during the install of windows you try to erase the partition and it would not erase (error). Hmmm... So I pull the computer out and brought it home with me. Now I set it up on my bench and try running Maxtor Disk Tools again the drive (Maxtor 200 GB) and the drive is not present in the tool. What??? So I pull the other drives (2 40 GB drives) loose and only left the 200 GB hook up solely. It works now so that means that the whole issue with random rebooting and faults was cause by one of the 40 GB drives... I ran the Maxtor tool again to verify the drive is good. Maxtor tool comes back and reports... The drive is SMART capable and enabled. Then it reports SMART has NOT been triggered! Meaning the drive is fine and ready for service. I'll find out more tomorrow...:thumbsup:

I'm running Win Vista 64 bit (Super tuned!)... I've learn from other site how to peel the extras off a computer so its like a race car... No style or flash but pure horsepower computer style!

Comments in blue...

Actually the concept was for the Vp44 pumps which were failing at a high rate even back in early years of the 2nd Gen's 24Vs. But after running 2 cycle for 75K Miles and pulled my stock injectors. They looked good just light coating of black soot. Nice part is my VP44 has over 110K miles and still going...:biggrin:

What wrong with sharing a bit of our cold weather with you warm blooded texans...:biggrin:

W&F you got my vote... I'll just buy yours...

As for Taz and myself we played Neverwinter Night's till 12:30am last night and then quit... Watch it snow in the porch lights. :biggrin:

My pyro probe is in the same place as ISX... Like today cruising home in the snow storm at 50-55 MPH and the highway was white also got my winter fronts on I only see 400-500*F pyro. I've seen some low pyro temps to myself but typically rise with the outside temps too... At -20*F weather it tough to see 600*F even rowing...:eek:

Did the next best thing and split the thread... So now the pelton wheel info can continue... We have a irragation dam approx. 1/3 mile up the mountain that starts out at 8" pipe out of a unname creek. The pipe necks down along its travel to 4" n top of the ridge then splits to 2 other properties. We take 50% of the water... So now with 150-180 PSI of water pressure it tends to beat a brass rain bird to death in a few years. So now if I use my pelton wheel fo electric generation I drop down to about 80 PSI which is managable for the sprinklers. The generator is a permanent magnet train generator with 2 winding 90* out of phase. Now if you take the pair of wires and short them out and try to twist the armature it takes a lot of force to turn by hand... So now on the free wheel it creates roughlt 120-130 VAC Its enough to light normal 100w bulb! If I open the valve wide and run it wide I blown a few bulbs just for fun! But then I send the power through a full wave recitifier send that directly to the batteries unregulated. On my homemade control panel I've got 2 switch controlling the 2 outputs. Thorw both switch it goes from free-wheeling to GRUNT! It actually produces roughly 240 Watts of power. If I had a bigger wheel I could do more but that require more water volume... (Bigger line)

Same back at you... I just got back from town and it snow horrid up my way... Roads are white... Maybe later on I'll crack a beer and do a toast all of ya... Any New Years resolutions? :confused:

But it take more balls to get a close up pics of this one...

1972 Dodge Power Wagon (Sold)1973 Dodge Charger SE1976 Dodge Power Wagon (Sold)1977 Dodge Jamboree Motorhome1978 Dodge Magnum XE1996 Dodge Ram 15002002 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Others...1951 Willys Jeep1984 Chevy S10 (Sold) This is all the vehicles I owned or used to own...

Here is my friendly winter deer... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143&stc=1&d=1262274881 I get these critter every winter camped out in my yard. They get so bold that they will walk right up to the house and eat the ivy right off the house. Never got to trim the ivy they do it for us every winter...

Along with that don't leave you doors hanging open while you shutdown the engine the rattling action isn't good for it either... So far my doors are doing really well...

This is simple to see... Now the truth is high the cetane the lower the BTU's so Bio having a natural high cetane index (mostly caused from the methanol). http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=224 As cetane levels go up in the winter time here so does the BTU value go down hence why the MPG fall here about 2-3 MPG in the winter time. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=225 Point of reference is that Unleaded gasoline is roughly 125K BTU's (Boy high cetane fuel doesn't look good now does it???) Just for even more fun I found that racing unleaded fuel has a Gravity API of 50... http://www.osbornauto.com/racing/unleaded.htm

Don't get over zealous with banjo bolt there is times where I've seen people break them in half...:eek: They are weak at the point of where the 4 holes are in the shank of the bolt.

If you get the 150 series pump then yes you end up with the drawstraw setup... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/airdog-150/airdog-150.htm But even with the draw straw there is isses of sloshing. Most people complain about 1.4 tank of the fuel dropping to 0 PSI because the sucking air at the draw straw tip. But with the 100 series pumps you can hook to the stock pickup assembly. But there is issues with that too. I've find out from members here and other ofrums there is a air leak issue with that snap on connector. Some just clamp on to the plastic nipple and some have to modify the sender a bit to get tight seal.