Mopar1973Man

Ugh... I wish... Owww... I rolled out from under the Service Truck trying to diagnose a tranny leak and something popped in my back now I'm all crippled... :mad I know today is going to suck... `

Thanks great piece of wisdom, I did not know that. Wiring issues are my least favorite kind of repair. Give me some worn our part to change, PM project or HP mod. Instant gradification nation, in some things I guess I buy into it! LOL Dave

Did you get the "Death Flash" ???The Death Flash is a flash upgrade (or downgrade) that reduces timing to prevent knocking. I've been reading up and finding out the death flash is a major issue when it comes to power and MPG issues. But is does reduce the ignition knoc from low octane fuels. Now for the solution a lot of guys are getting programmer like SuperChips and the like to over-ride the "Death Flash"Hmmm... You did know I was studing up on gasser now did you??? 8| > ;)

The Dakotas are really nice vehicles... My neighbor has one and look great for a smaller truck. Trying to find what you want might be a bit tough but keep looking you'll find one soon... :thumbsup

Well here we go... Boy I really like the Honda Rancher for a ATV. Electric shift is great no hunting around for a foot shifter. Run like a bat of hell. :wow

If you are make sure the washer doesn't interfer with the passage of fuel (too small of a hole). The pic of the washer above was a perfect fit... ;)

No actually your not losing it. You're following me down the same trail really... I'm switching away from my Cummins more so and trying to switch into driving my Mom's 96 Dodge 5.9L gasser. Gasoline is cheaper but only if the MPG start to rise on this 96 beast. But my problems is that I drive short trips and never really used so it need a good long trip some where so it can get the crud blown out if it.But back your post... I would aim for a V6 or 5.2L from what I'm seeing. The 5.2L is doing some wonderful MPG numbers from what I'm finding on other forums. (16-19 MPG).

I know of several people that are running it but its simple to make a choice on if you want to or not... Just get the MSDS sheet for the product and it will give you a clue if its all solvents or got a fuel lubricant in it...

Well Ummm... I've hear all kind of stories on size but this is the size on my 2002... (6 sided socket)

Most grounds in a Dodge are black... (Normally!)

Right off the top...1. I would double check your headlight fuses in the PDC.2. I would disable the MOD to see if it returnes to normal function (without dimming)

Hey Gang... I want to let you guys know I had to retire from another forum because of the amount of email and posting. It was getting to be about 3-4 hours to answer 50-100 post per day. It was getting really hard on me. Also I was wanting to gear up for the summer time and want to enjoy the summer camping, fishing, riding 4 wheeler, hunting etc... I'm going to enojy my summer this year... So to make room for this I had to let a site go... But i'll most likely gear up and return to tech support at CF.com come winter time... Thread from CF.com http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/off-t ... f-com.html

Hey gang... I'm starting to work towards a killer summer and desided to buy a new 4 wheeler for up here in back country of Idaho... It going to be a 2009 Honda Rancher 4x4 (420 cc engine). I'm heading out tomorrow morning to go get it. As a matter of fact a good friend of mine is also picking up one as well...Specs...420cc Honda liquid cooled OHV four strokeFuel injected5 speed electric shift with ReverseAhh... Heck... I'll post pics of it tomorrow evening once its home... ;)

OMG! 8| :wow LOL Yea it seem that the springs tend to relax over time just like any other springs...

You know me.............LOL > :moon

Don't push it... LOL :nono 8|

actually over this last winter the pressures slide down to as low as 12 PSI WOT and idle at 14 PSI. (Thicken fuel - Gelling) After this stress was put on the regulator spring it seems to hold the same pressure come spring time. I tend to like to have it float between 15-17 PSI knowing the overflow valve is just cracking open. (Know there more that enough fuel).

I think Dorkweed has tried Synthetic in his 2004... As for Duluth Diesel (AMSOil Dealer @ CF.com) he's burning his own oils (2 cycle) without issue... So if its hydraulic fluid that might be the cause. There is several other chemical added to different lubes (engine oil, ATF, hydraulic fluids) that might effect the performance and the way it burns... As a matter of fact the closest I came to synthetic is Yama-Lube Semi-Synthetic and I used over 2 gallons without issue... ;)

Actually synthetics are fine to use but synthetics are more costly price wise. As for the ratio you want to hold to 200:1 ratio as a MAX. As for 2007 model year I'm kind of on the fence concerning 2007 models. Being that everything after that point was designed for ULSD and shouldn't requirte a fuel additive for lubricity. But form what I'm finding out as long as the DPF is not present most peope have used it without a issue...

Run around with your head cut off... LOL > ;)

Sorry... I love my Frantz Filter... 1. Filters are just a roll of Toilet paper... (Super cheap and always available from home!) 2. Frantz filters tend to be able to filter down to 1/10 of a micron. As for the magnet... It would help... The only problem I see is the magnet popping off the filter on rough roads... :confused:

You could always just put a strong magnet on the oil filter so every time you change oil just pull the magnet off the filter and use again. All the metal stays inside the filter cartridge. Or just upgrade to a bypass filter like Frantz or Motorguard. They both filter down to 1/10 or so...

If the rear speed sensor is goofy then the speedometer doesn't work or behaves weird. So if the speedometer is working then the front 2 sensors are to blame.As for the cam sensor... If the cam sensor fails it my leave you walking. So I would see about fixing the cam sensor soon.

Yeah Dorkweed your talking about the sector adjustment of og the steering box. I forgot about that... (D'OH!)But basically there is a stud (allen) with a jam nut that you can screw inward to tight the gear lash up. But don't get to carried away with it. Rock the steering shaft left to right checking the response of the pitman arm as you tighten the screw... DO NOT FORCE IT! 8|

I was just thinking of sticking a magnet in the Frantz Filter Can... But why... The Frantz Filter filters down to 1/10 of a micron and pulls out over 6 Ozs of water out of the oil. So if there is any kind of solid particles in the oil the Frantz Filter will catch it... :D Hmmm... I guess I can extend out my oil changes quite a bit too. As for you Dorkwed you exceeded good ol' AMSOil for changes... LOL >