Mopar1973Man

Yes... You would have to bleed all 4 wheels to get the system cleaned up. Starting at the rear passenger side, rear driver side, front passenger side and then front driver side in that order. Basically start out with the rear passenger side and pump out nearly all the brake fluid through it. Then re-fill and bleed it till clean the other wheels will go quick after that. Now there is a problem and short coming to this. This will freshen the the fluid in the system but it does nothing about all the debris that drops in the bottom of every caliper (or wheel cylinder for drums). This debris will remain after the bleeding. So say about every other bleeding (60K miles) you should open up each caliper and wheel cylinder and inspect it for debris, pitting, rusting, piston and seal damage. Before you start just pull the calipers off and dis-assemble them completely and wash everything in soap and water. Then blow dry with compressed air so metal part won't rust. Look closely at the seal on the right side and you can see the damage done by debris in the brake fluid. Now look at the piston. With the seal out the piston should fall to the bottom of the bore like pictured without pushing. Also pay attention to rub marks or pitting of the cylinders. If not you can slight tune the pistons with a fine grit sandpaper (600) and lightly sand them till the fit by dropping. Here with a new seal in place. Mark sure you pre-lube them with fresh brake fluid before assembly.

If so then it would fall back to DEF mode all the time... :confused:

Well I was in the process of building a brake bleed page (Buttom missing) http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/brakes/brakes.htm But basically I created a bleeder container to keep the air out of the system. Basically a mayo jar and a piece of vinyl tubing inserted in the lid of the jar to hang down to the bottom of the jar. This keeps the line from sucking air back in the system. Yeah that what brake fluid looks like after 30K miles nasty black color. This is what fresh fluid looks like after a good change at 30K miles... Use typical DOT 3 Brake fluid and your good to go! ;)

Wow! :wow The dealer mechanic suggested my idea??? That's a shocker! 8| That's for sure one to add to the books! Wow! :wow

There is also a lot of double speak that is upsetting... Like GM is talking on how is going to close down most dealer here in America. But how the foreign dealers are doing wonderful in China and other places. They will remain open.. WTF!?!? My dad (Rest his soul - pasted away in 2004) was a 30 year retiree from Van Nuys, Ca. Plant... You can should see how the moved everything to China and going to kepp moving to save there Arse! :mad

Dang it really active there... :wow

Following Russ's lead here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/ac/ac.htm

Sounds like the problem is solved and the dealer did you right! Glad to hear it! :thumbsup

Well gang...I got into Mom's garage and woke up the sleeping princess. It happens to be a 1977 Dodge Magnum XE with a 318 CID engine 2 BBL Holley carb. Nice to see the old girl wake up from a long slumber in the garage. It got several small issues to deal with like a 1/2 tank of some very sour gasoline, needing all the fluids change and just basic maintenance done. Later on I get the rest of the specs and some pictures of my project... :thumbsup

Believe it or not even Idaho gets a tornadoes now and then... Check this out! http://www.tornadoproject.com/alltorns/idtorn.htm As a matter of fact we just had a tornado touch down in Emmett, ID this spring! 8| (close to the Ex-girlfriend)

Waiting to hear back! :thumbsup

Well at least you a good distance away from it... But good pics of it! I'm glad no one was hurt nor any damage done (that you know of!). ;) That pretty cool to get a tornado pics on the Mopar site.. :thumbsup

I think Russ has a good idea of jumper testing the fan and see ifit holds up for a long period of time. Nope... As far as I know of there is no auto control fans... Boy Russ you must of had fun cleaning out those critters eh??? LOL I think there could be a piece of paper floating around in the vents too. Laying down when off but takes some time to flutter up and stick to a heater core or evaporator??? :confused:

Yeap that another factor that will effect the life of a injector. Being that Bosch suggest fuel that is less than 460 HFRR score. Typical fuel today float around the 500-520 HFRR score. Maybe that why I still use a fuel lubricant like 2 cycle oil... LOL ;)

Now what you save on just buying the tips you'll must likely make up in pop testing and driving around getting it done... They could be... But it depends on how much debris that is escaping the fuel filter and being shoved throught the edge filters at the injectors... Also there is other factors excessive pyrometer heat, debris in the cylinder chamber (bad air filter), mechanical failure (broke part), etc...

Check your fuse...Check the fan phyiscally for damage...Pull the fan resistor out and check for damage...I've pull a few out now and seen that the fan takes alot of abuse from dust and dirt. The bearing tend to fail blowning the fuse most times. Also If you like most people here the keep jacking fuses into it till it won't hold a fuse. Typically the speed sresistor will burn up from the excessive load from the bad blower motor. The fan and resistor are on the passenger side pointed towards the floor board. Once you pull the blower out you can check for rats nest or debris. I've been lucky and pulled a $1 dollar bill out my buddy's 92 Cummins... LOL That was his whole problem was the 1 dollar bill was blocking part of the evaporator...

Good question??? :confused:

Looking over TSB's and found this one for you! http://silverdodge.dodgeram.org/tsb/1999/18-02-99.htm

About 2K to 2.5K RPM's you should see MAX Boost. It all based on hold much fuel you can pour in the cylinders. More fueling enhancements the boost that is produced.

That's something that bother me...I see people driving around with a turn signal on knowning they have no idea how fast there going, there turn signal on, or if there is a engine mal-function... :wow

1. Cheap filters. (Cheap no name filters) 2. Not changing the fuel filter as needed. 3. Burning WEO/WMO, ATF, WVO Etc in the fuel without proper processing. If you upgrade to a FASS or AirDog you got the option of upgrading from the stock 10 Micron filters to 2 micron filter like myself. I tend to stick with Fleetguard filters on everything except the Air Filter which is a BHAF.

How about a binding piston in the caliper dragging the pads???How about rusted slide pins??How about debris in the bottom of the piston cylinder causing a binding problem???

LOL LOL LOL I know why you got beat... She was run on Methane... That little stinker... LOL ;)

Right on! :thumbsup Teach em' young and they always do good... LOL

Remember I'm totally guessing here the best way to verify this is to have the alternator tested and see if the diodes are bad or not. :confused: