Mopar1973Man

Yeap... Just did a short video of it last night...

With 2 cycle oil my truck sounds like a 3rd Gen... Without it it sounds like a old 12V... LOL

I always love that one! LOL If you can get a hold of a Smarty programmer you can get it for free in less than 30 minutes... As for the dealer they ALWAYS say it CANNOT be done because they never been taught how. But if they read up on the TSB's it all right there... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/high-idle/tsb18-019-01.htm Pretty simple huh??? :D

How about both... 8| Minimum allowed fuel pressure by Cummins is 10 PSI... :wow A pump that is up for the jobs doesn't drop more that 1-2 PSI... Pressure loss means the pump's ability to supply volume isn't enough to supply the demand... Here is a good setup... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRoZlLVVxiY

I'm putting some BIg O tire on lay-away... I'm going to experiment with 235/85 R16 tires... 8|

Here is a long thread on it... viewtopic.php?f=14&t=220

http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/high-idle/tsb18-019-01.htm On both Automatics or Manuals trans...

Wow! That rather marginal... 8|

Normal... Mine is the same way... The flow is so small that it doesn't show...

A lot of guys are heading over to the 3rd Gen trac bar... But you need a adapter kit for it...

I'm curious how it turns out and how it works... :thumbsup

Ok... About injector cleaners... Now think about it the only 2 ways a injector can get dirty. Is from the fuel or from the combustion process. 1. If the source of problems is from the fuel that means you got to either put a better filter on <10 micron or/and us better grade of fuel. This will stop the dirt from getting to the injectors. 2. If its the combustion process that is doing it then it most likely got carbon build up on it from cold EGT and lack of load put against it. So hitch up a trailer and/or weight and make that thing work. This will normally heat up the injector tips and burn off the garbage. Remember that chemical cleaners won't be able to do much for the injector tips. 3. If the debris is physical dirt I hate to say it but you can soak a hand full of dirt in any kind of injector cleaner and it still remains dirt... LOL Personally I don't see a need for injector cleaners if your running <10 micron filter... :confused:

You got to look at what older ATF was back in the 1970's... It was basically a red dyed hydraulic oil. Which wasn't bad back then. But now with all the changes in ATF design (ATF+3 or ATF+4) now there is friction modifiers, and other chemical to help it endure highier temps, help hold the clutch plates better, etc... These chemical is what don't burn very well and leave deposits...Now I've seen plenty of 2 cycle engines that burn extremely clean... But I've never even found a engine that was design for ATF as a fuel or fuel additive... :confused:

OUCH! Any kind of solvent or alcohol is not suggested or needed in a diesel. The acetone might have a bad effect with seals and o-rings... :confused:

So how do you figure out how much to dump in? I'm curious? :confused:

Well that kind of tough... There is 3 wires to the MAP sensor... 1. +5 Volt Supply2. Signal3. GroundOn Edge comp you want to turn off the signal line or disconnect it.On most others you want the +5V connect to the Signal lead.Now the problem is that the wire color and pin assignment changed from year to year. Even the plugs changed. So it will be up to you to test for the 5V lead and the signal lead. The signal lead will be the only one that won't change when the key is turned on! Also the stock wiring to the ECM should not be altered... Only the wiring to the quadzilla...

Fixed your post for ya... LOL But anytime you see just the P1693 error code... It MEANS to dig deeper... There is more error codes present. There is NO WAY to have just a P1693 error code by itself... Sometime you got to go barrow a Scan Tool like a ScanGauge II or similar... So there is another error code that you missed... :confused:

That will work... :thumbsup What kind of metal did you use? (aluminum, steel, etc?)I like the bolt-less appearance better... I see what you mean about the weld spot... But no big deal... After they get beat up and muddy, scratched up, etc you'll forget about it rather quickly...But the main principal was delt with... You now can warm up your truck quickly and save fuel doing it... :thumbsup

Well if you anywhere near Idaho you'll have to stop in and we'll head down to the local pub and have a few brews! :thumbsup I'm glad it worked for ya... Now I got another one I just posted as of tonight... This BOMB can be done on your truck since you got a 12V... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/high-idle/high-idle2.htm

Not bad... I should of recorded mine without grid heaters... Boy she rattles good... LOL

Cool... I love to see other peoples ideas so I can learn other ways of doing it...Like on mine I used stainless steel bolt with ny-locs so no one can try to unbolt it or have it rattle loose and fall out... :thumbsup

Shoot... Just this morning it was 12*F at my house this morning and fire up the Cummins WITHOUT grid heaters on the 3rd try... High idle kicked in on it own! Wow! 8| Then got to New Meadows, ID proper and it was -8*F... No problems here... LOL

Hey Live Oak there is ZERO cutting of wires everything plugs in... As a matter of fact I'm building to kit as we speak I got to head out to Radio Shack and pick up the other parts I've ordered... I got some switches and resistors sitting up at McCall, Idaho...

Ummmm... Yeah I do... I can warm up my truck in under 10 minutes can you? http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/high-idle/high-idle.htm Check out the videos... >

Well here a pic of mine again...