Mopar1973Man

As for the Hi/LO trick you can buy the Brite Box or do the wiring mod yourself. I think it over at CumminsForum.com. Well at least the aircraft light are 12V and plentful at a local NAPA store... ;)

Restrictive??? LOL The stock resinator is nothing but a straight pipe thought a muffler can packed with fiberglass. The pipe inside the can has holes drilled in the face of the pipe. As for noise... Truely they are not to bad as long as you keep your foot out of the carpet. But sounds awesome in a tunnel or under a bridge at WOT... LOL

Some people have all the luck... I'm looking at the point that I can't see having grid heaters for a mild morning the truc kfires up easy without grid heaters. Also the draw on the batteries has to be recharged. Being I'm traveling less and less I might was well find ways of preserving my batteries...

Here is my thought on this... Coolant is not forever. A lot of people open the cap and see green, orange, or yellow coolant and then think "Oh! it still good because its not rusty!" This is WRONG! Coolant will turn to a acid or base over time. During this time it start to eat the metals of the cooling system (Radiator, heater core, freeze plugs, head gasket, etc). Now when you see the rust color its too late because it been acid for a long time now. Coolant flushed are required at 30K miles regardless of the color of the coolant. So As for you leak I better you got some trash floating in the system and it plugged the hole in the freeze plug for the moment. I would still flush the system and inspect it. Because when summer gets here and the temps get hot it will blow that plug (debris) out. Or the other possiblity is that the coolant pressure didn't get high enough to spray out. (cooler day) 5 Years and 100K miles later I got now rust, lime scale, or any kind of coolant system problems. It all about change your coolant thats all! So flush the system out completely and get the hole to open up so you can find it. The I would use a punch and twist the freeze plug in its hole or use a slide hammer with a screw on the end. Remove the freeze plug and replace it.

Too bad the ecnomy is shot to hell I would love to fix up the ol' Charger get fresh paint job and pull the engine to just inspect it again. That car was so sweet to drive. That thing had grunt from hell. Tall gears and with automatic in just flew. 0-40 in first gear40-90 In second gear90-145 in drive... Yes... I did find my way to 145 MPH in the Nevada desert... 8| I got to admit she was no light weight when it came to movement! :D

Then there is the other style is you'll find a slot above or below the connector. If you look inside the notch you'll see a tab holding the connector in place. I normally using either a flatten piece of bailing wire or a jewelers flat blade screwdriver (small). (Typical blade connectors) Another I've see is a look closely and find there is a removable piece of plastic that will expose the locks. Just light lift the proper lock with a small jeweler screwdriver and remove. (fuel tank sender) But typically most all connectors have a locking mechism to it. Just take your time and study the connector... Another thought is if your looking for a removal tool you might try "CaspersElectronics.Com" and see if they happen to have a tool to meet your needs. :confused: http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/

Wow! Your not bad looking... (The Dog...) LOL Seriously that's one hell of a good hunting dog! He would do really good up here chasing grouse... >

Hey thats a good one Russ... I forgot all about that... I got a buddy that build boats and uses the stuff all the time... But Like Russ said you should be able to fine it listed with JC Whitney's...

you guy are bad... ` You making want to go out and find a fresh battery and fire up my Charger and take it for a ride. But I know it needs some tune up work before it will even run worth a darn... But the last time I had it out I swear that my Cummins has got that 383 CID beat though.. >

Like Dave Said I would keep the D ring too...But as for the over kill bed mounting I would cut the loose and carefully clean up ther excessive metal. But as for the metal welded to the frame I would leave alone. But The persons to talk to would be JL Welding he's a professional welder here on the site and would know exactly how to fix this... :smart

Hmmm... If its a freeze plug I would just change it out... But... Why did this happen? :confused: I know the answer. It because the coolant flush/changes were not done as needed.Just because the coolant is still green it does mean that the coolant is still good. As the coolant ages it starts to become acidic or basic. Then it starts attacking metals of the coolant system. Heater core, radiators, freeze plugs, even head gaskets...So with that said I would flush the system and start over...

I'll see what I can do for ya... LOL :thumbsup

Well now that captured... LOL http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forums/s ... stcount=23 (simple... click on the post number when the new window pop open copy & paste the address information from the browser. Then paste to the new post. ;)

I've got to say... I wonder what you been using for a fuel additive that would eat the float off the sender arm??? 8|

Wow! Dorkweed that is quite the mouthful there... You right about one thing AMSOil dealers are everywhere... I know there is several other choices in Synthetic oils but you never see them. :confused:

Hmmm... something get wet, corroded connection, bad ground, burnt wire, broken wire etc? :confused:

That is dangerous... LOL Personally I would love to see the strengths of the old school hemi but with the snap of the new school electronics and you would have a really wicked ride. Something about the old school design was just stronger took more crap before breaking down compared to the newer hemi's. But stuff that in a Sheby OMG! >

Hmmm... I'm not sure but I'm going to be heading towards my supplier for oil soon I'll find out and post up what I find... But I'm still sitting on a 5 gallon bucket of oil yet... As for Synthetics I don't doubt that they work as good as they claim but something that is not being said. Things like transmission, transfer case, axle and such that DON'T have filters you must consider you choice wisely. Regardless of what you use petroluem base or synthetics as soon as there is debris/contaminates in the lubricant it MUST be replaced. Like myself I play in water, mud, deep snow, etc I've got water in the diff's a few times now. Not a lot of water but enough to give it a mild milky color. Like in my transmission I've got a NV4500 5 speed with the factory synthetic in it. The book says it good till 100K miles according to Dodge but i'm lucky to get 60K before its turning black. Yes its a synthetic and yes it does break down over time but it not indestructable... Like the first change on my transmission was nealr black like engine at 65K miles. The new fluid was clear like water. Engine oil I'm using... The transmission I'm using...

Shoot... I'm normally passing my WalMart jug to the guy on the other pump asking if he wants some... LOL As for me I just pour it from my gallon jug into my quart oil container and add to the tank right there at the pump I don't hide it. Never been asked or anything. But up here in Idaho I've seen guys pulling out Wesson Oil guy and pouring WVO in the tank... :confused: But the difference if I pull out a jug of PS or a gallon jug of Mineral spirits/Xylene/Naptha??? There the same... Just the label is different... LOL

Wow... That's scary... :wow 8| I still just look at Bosch testing back in 2002 with LSD and the failure rate... That says it all and why the VP44 fail so quickly even then... I don't think there testing fuel being delievered to the local station very offen if at all... Could you drop a link to that???

Relay shouldn't be hot at all... The power should be off when the key is off. VP44 shouldn't be energized after the key is off... The ECM controls the Fuel Pump realy directly. A gamble is to check the ASD (Automatic Shut Down) relay to see if its sticking too... I hate to say the has failed but there is a issue there and the ECM is not shutting down with the key for some reason... 8|

I'm starting to ask the local fuel stations if they are getting winterized or summer fuel... Found some stations are summer fuel already while others are not. As for the 2 cycle oil I've been down to as low as 100:1 mix rate but beyond that you start to see degrade in power / MPG's.From what I know the lubricant package is suppose to be added to the fuel at the time of filling the delievery truck. :confused: Railroads??? We don't have any railroad here anymore... `

Dang... I wish... I'm in the 40-50*F bracket now and it raining here in Idaho. With the winter fronts it would push the IAT temps up to about 100*F and gain me about 1-2 MPG but my EGt here in the canyon were about 600-900*F. But now that I pulled the winter fronts my EGT are now down to 500-600*F and IAT dropped to 80*F... Now the MPG's slid down the 1-2 points and back to the lower numbers... Can't win for losing... LOL

Wow what a mess... Now as for the grid heaters I'm starting to see several failures of the relay that control the grid heaters. They will stick and stay on. I would check and see if the relay is actually stuck or is the ECM sending power to the relay needlessly. As for the P1689 that could be from the lack of voltage during the time the grid heater were sticking or because the fuel pump relay is got weak contaacts. trade the fuel pump realy in the PDC with something else or just replace it. Is the fuel pump still running with the key out? I've heard of a simular thing it happen to be the ABS brake pump on the drivers fender that was running... But double check to see... :confused:

Here is the listing... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/bhaf/bhaf.htm (Bottom of the page)