Mopar1973Man

Russ had to dig it out again... LOL 1973 Charger SE - 383 CID - Auto 727 >

Actual no... PM Sent...

Well Gang... Spring is close at hand here in Idaho and I just desided to pull my grid heater supply lines for the summer. So far yesterday morning at 35*f it started easy without grid heaters.also pulled my winter fronts off too being the daytime high temps are getting to 55-60*F here in the valley bottom. So winter equiptment can be shed off for the time being...

Well the overfill part has been suggested a for a few tranny I know of because of not getting enough oil to lube input shaft bearings and such. As for the mixture of oils and limited slip... Lets see how it works for you...

Always try to provide good information for the group...

LOL :thumbsup Yeah Russ I know what you mean... On my 73 Charger I was lucky and already had a few hole in the chrome bumper from the fractory. The hole where prefect position for a set of fog lamp t ohang just below and there was plenty of room for adjustment. There look like there belonged there! ;)

Here is the maintenance list for the 12V crowd... http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/maint/2nd_Gen-12v.htm

You can look at what I did for lighting... It works awesome... :thumbsup http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/fog-lights/fog-lights.htm

Right here... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=cat&id=2

Yeap it getting to 50*F during the day here but the aluminum panel are doing quite well. I'm still running them as a aid for MPG. I've notice once the IAT breaks over the 100*F mark the the MPG starts to rise rather quickly. Even with 50*F weather the most coolant temp rises to is about 197*F and the EGT are still in check yet...

That's the thing about Transmission parts as soon as you get into it the part as spendy...

Or double clutch it... That also works too... I've driven a lot of old non-syncro fire trucks and water tenders...

Nope... But the 2001 is just the same as 2002 for ther most part...

Holy cow that is one for the books... I would love to have that whole write up here... Wow! :wow 8|

I would try calling Caspers Electronics... They supply me all the connectors for the high idle mod I make I'm sure they can find a connector for you... http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/ Good quality parts and prices! :thumbsup

Well so far I'm going to get 100K miles out of a BHAF and never had to wash, oil, blow clean, vacuum, etc... :confused: It just keeps going! :thumbsup

Yeah they stink like hell...

LOL Well this winter my truck got both good and bad... I left it outy in the winter cold several times... Like tonight is suppose to get down to 11*F. Then other times I feel sorry for it and put it in the unheated shop at about 40*F. I was plugging in the truck but my truck been sitting more that driving so the power bill was going up. So this winter the truck got a cold shoulder. The best part is she is still preforming really well. As for MPG's it been low. mostly because of my driving style has changed (heavy foot) and short trips are really common. But as summer gets here the performance will improve like usual... :thumbsup

Well you know the Cummins engine is good for a million miles so yeah you just got started breaking it in... She'll really come to life around 200K miles... LOL Hmmm... So the Smarty has really done you good so far... I'm glad to see you pushed pasted the 21 mark and heading up... For todays economy and such you going to need every ounce you can muster up... :thumbsup

Well fluid changes are always welcomed... When you do take the PTO plate off and mop out as much fluid as you can. Make sure you use the proper fluid back in the transmission too.

Sounds like its time to pull back that transmission at look at the clutch assembly. Grinding gear is usually cause by a clutch that not dis-engaging or a polit bearing that is going bad on you. Now if it only 1 gear that grind it would be a syncro for thaty gear...But I'm not a Tranny guy... But this is the little tidbit I can give...

Well there is a lot of factors in volved but I can give this much. Since there is more fuel given in every pulse now you'll notice your lighter on the throttle most of the time. Like myself I run my Edge Comp on 5x5 all the time. I get the most timing that way and control the fuel flow with my foot. But here is another secret I found. Timing is only given at low to zero boost as boost pressure rises the timing is natural retard. There is a function called Auto Ignition Temperature. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Auto-ignition_temperature This means as boost pressure rises the igniton point of the fuel ignite quickly and sooner. So the injection pump retards timing as boost pressure rises. So like myself if I'm looking for MPG I try to keep my boost under 5 PSI of boost and the timing is there for you and the MPG will jump. I typically can see 21-23 MPG this way. You'll also will know you economy is good because the Pyrometer will fall. ;) Another thing to remember more boost pressure means more fuel added... Usually results in a increase of EGT...

Kind of like your favorite pair of boots... You just got a personal favorite and usually stick to it... :thumbsup

That's a tough one... PM Sent...

I've got a funny thought that Opti-lube uses some sort of Veggie base oil for lubricant... I can't explain why it ranks so high and has a listing of so many solvent based chemicals. But remember that only hazardous materials but be listed. So veggie oils is consumable so it doesn't have to be listed... But that's my theory on that... :confused: