Mopar1973Man

I konw this is really common for newbie to panic to see the headlight dim and get bright again... So I wrote up a quick page for grid heater functions and this is totally normal! http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/cumm ... heater.htm

I've seen several complaints of hard starting or slow cranking. Some of this is just the starter contacts have gone bad or the battery terminals are dirty. But after that you should look at the master cables that feed the starter. You got to remember that the starter on a cold winter morning is going to draw nearly 700 Amps to twist these big brutes over... But more about the testing here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/cumm ... ircuit.htm

I konw there is everal people on here that have had problems with coolant system leaks, head gaskets, or heater cores. Most of these failures are caused from a acid or basic coolant. Even though the coolant is green doesn't mean that coolant is still good. Eventually the coolant starts becoming acid or basic and causes problems by eats the metal around it... Here is more on this subject... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/cumm ... -flush.htm

Well gang... I got a write now for the CCD netwrok and how it operates. So for those of you that have the CCD error on your overhead console and weird problems with the ABS/Brake lights and maybe the gauge cluster I would day its a CCD network problem... So go here and read up... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/ccd/ccd.htm

Either the TSB or Smarty programmer has to been used to enable the high idle software... Smarty being free and TSB could cost about $100-$120 bucks. PM Sent...

Thanks Dorkweed...I knew someone would have the answer to that... Like here in Idaho (Central Idaho) there is no BIO fuels at all... So it rather tough for me to do any testing of BIO diesel... But Thatnk you again for you knowledge on it... :thumbsup

Well if your to worried about it just pick up a bottle of PS 911 (Red Bottle)... Thats a safety net...

Harry... I've got a thread about my theory of 2 cycle oil and its effects... viewtopic.php?f=14&t=357 This is my theory I'm going to start testing here as soon as I get a block of dry ide to chill diesel fuel down to find out if the pour point of the fuel is effect by 2 cycle oil (positive or negative). But my personal opinion I think you going to be fine for the most part. Most all diesel fuel is winterized and should withstand the changes of the weather here in Idaho... http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.ph ... -116.33183 Like here shortly I'll be down to 4*F above for Tuesday night... (Brrr!)

Here is some information on fuel and 2 cycle oil here... (Just examples) Phillips 66 Injex 2 cycle oil... http://www.smallandsonsoil.com/index.php?x=PH_injex Pour point of -40*F Cennex Fuels... http://www.cenexenergy.com/default.asp? ... Path=0;0;5

Some high performance sled oils are down to -50*F or even lower... So it got to have a effect on the pour point of diesel fuel... Now the synthetic line of oil some are even as low or lower. But the problem with synthetics is they don't contain a PPD (pour point depressant). Being there made in a lab and there is no wax or parafin in the oil they have ZERO needs fo PPD so synthetic 2 cycle oil had ZERO effect on the pour point on diesel fuel...As for the other guys... All I ask of them is to bring proof to the table of what there saying over there but they ALWAYS come empty handed! :mad

Not a problem I'll be here... :thumbsup

Dang... LOL But I've got it functioning good now... Selectable 3 cylinder or High idle now... :thumbsup Switch 1 - ECT sensor fooler. Switch on will cause the ECM to see 123*F regardless of the current engine temp. Switch 2 - IAT sensor fooler - Switch on will cause the ECM to see either 13*F or 26*F regardless of the current manifold temp. Switch 3 - Selection of the IAT temp. either 13*F (3 cylinder) or 26*F (high idle)

Ok...Here is my theory of the anti-gel abilities of 2 cycle oil... Let me show a example here first. Let use water and saltwater as a example. So we all know that fresh water freezes at 32*F correct. Then salt water has a much lower freezing point. (Depending on how much salt is in the water) So now if you add 1 oz of saltwater to the fresh water you going to change the freezing point of the fresh water correct??? Of course....But now if we switch water with diesel fuel and salt water with snowmobile 2 cycle oil. Diesel fuel has a pour point of around -20*F here in Idaho typically. (From the specs I'm finding on the suppling sites). Then 2 cycle oil has a pour point of about -40*F typically. So if you adding 1 oz of 2 cycle oil to 1 gallon of diesel fuel you should have the same reaction right???Well more to come.. Soon as I get my hand on some dry ice I'm going to do this testing and post up the information for everyone...

Well so far the high idle mod is working flawless... I can enable the high idle at will and select the mode of operation I want.But here is a few things I did find out. In 3 cylinder high idle mode the back 3 cylinders are active and the front 3 cylinder are dead. So if you got a pyro probe in the front 3 cylinder you'll never know how hot it really getting. Like myself mine is mounted in the rear manifold. But to give you all a clue you can grab the front half of the exhaust manifold and it just bare warm to the touch. But the back half could be close to 900*F depending on type of operation...If anyone needs one built let me know I will assemble it for you... :thumbsup

Wow! That's a nice horse there Flagman... sad to hear you lost him... ` Nice truck thou... Looks like you pull a good load behind it... :thumbsup

Just like my fuel tank it was spotless inside till I drilled the hole for the drawstraw... I've got both the stock filter and the AD 150 filters... Funny part is the factory filter is still clean after 10K miles now... So why would I need a injecotr cleaner if the fuel is clean???

Well hell that like the gasoline pump out here it could be up to 10% ethanol... (Up to... Meaning it might contain it it might not...)I would still hold to it who know if Bio is actually in it and how much...

Currently Riggins, ID - $2.859 Gasoline is $1.899...Man its alomst time to break out the gasser... :confused

Being that the relays are feed from a constant hot source (fog lamp relay and trailer relay) that means you got to shut down the ground side. But I still got a flaw in mine. Basically if the headlight are in the high beam mode the toggle switch will not shut down the lights till low beam is selected. There is as feed back problem and it can be resolved with a diode added to the relay ground legs...

Hmmm... Here in Idaho its $2.859 for diesel$1.899 for gasolineMy cummins is not liking the winterized fuels at all... I'm down from my high of 23 down to about 16-17 at best...

Well even with the cold here in Idaho I'm seeing about 80-95*F in the manifold yet with or without my winter front installed... The fender hole is till open but manifold temps are not terribly cold yet...

What I did was made a pattern from cardboard and use it to cut aluminum out... Then trim it with a file...

Wow! You got me beat right now...I'm lucky to pull about 16-17 MPG on my daily short trips locally... :confused

Glad to hear you got it fixed cheap! Right On! :thumbsup

Naw... I seem to get more done on the phone normally... LOL