Mopar1973Man

Well there is a lot of factors in volved but I can give this much. Since there is more fuel given in every pulse now you'll notice your lighter on the throttle most of the time. Like myself I run my Edge Comp on 5x5 all the time. I get the most timing that way and control the fuel flow with my foot. But here is another secret I found. Timing is only given at low to zero boost as boost pressure rises the timing is natural retard. There is a function called Auto Ignition Temperature. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Auto-ignition_temperature This means as boost pressure rises the igniton point of the fuel ignite quickly and sooner. So the injection pump retards timing as boost pressure rises. So like myself if I'm looking for MPG I try to keep my boost under 5 PSI of boost and the timing is there for you and the MPG will jump. I typically can see 21-23 MPG this way. You'll also will know you economy is good because the Pyrometer will fall. ;) Another thing to remember more boost pressure means more fuel added... Usually results in a increase of EGT...

Kind of like your favorite pair of boots... You just got a personal favorite and usually stick to it... :thumbsup

That's a tough one... PM Sent...

I've got a funny thought that Opti-lube uses some sort of Veggie base oil for lubricant... I can't explain why it ranks so high and has a listing of so many solvent based chemicals. But remember that only hazardous materials but be listed. So veggie oils is consumable so it doesn't have to be listed... But that's my theory on that... :confused:

Here ya go... Naptha (Coleman stove fuel, Zippo lighter fuel) Xylene (Paint thinner) Naphthalene (Mothballs) Give you a clue on some of them... Here is the search on CF.com http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&as_q ... afe=images

If it available for a good price go for it... There has been some serious discussion on the MSDS contents of the Opti-Lube series though. Over on CF.com they got a bit carried away but the point is that MSDS sheets are suppose to be completel ingredient listing of all HAZMAT's. So if this true the Opti-Lube contains a lot of solvent based materials. As ofr what the lubricant truely is I'm not sure. I'm not had the chance to get a hold of a MSDS on either porduct and review it. But from the HFRR testing it seems to prove itsself quite well... :thumbsup

Hmmm... Ummm... I know I can't help ya... But maybe one of the other guys here could... The only thing I can give is the Dodge FSM books that might give you clue... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=cat&id=2

Hmmm... Well here in the next few days I'm going to head down to Ontario, OR to put some tires on layaway for my truck for spring... When I'm down there i'll grab some pics...

Yeap... Just did a short video of it last night...

With 2 cycle oil my truck sounds like a 3rd Gen... Without it it sounds like a old 12V... LOL

I always love that one! LOL If you can get a hold of a Smarty programmer you can get it for free in less than 30 minutes... As for the dealer they ALWAYS say it CANNOT be done because they never been taught how. But if they read up on the TSB's it all right there... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/high-idle/tsb18-019-01.htm Pretty simple huh??? :D

How about both... 8| Minimum allowed fuel pressure by Cummins is 10 PSI... :wow A pump that is up for the jobs doesn't drop more that 1-2 PSI... Pressure loss means the pump's ability to supply volume isn't enough to supply the demand... Here is a good setup... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRoZlLVVxiY

I'm putting some BIg O tire on lay-away... I'm going to experiment with 235/85 R16 tires... 8|

Here is a long thread on it... viewtopic.php?f=14&t=220

http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/high-idle/tsb18-019-01.htm On both Automatics or Manuals trans...

Wow! That rather marginal... 8|

Normal... Mine is the same way... The flow is so small that it doesn't show...

A lot of guys are heading over to the 3rd Gen trac bar... But you need a adapter kit for it...

I'm curious how it turns out and how it works... :thumbsup

Ok... About injector cleaners... Now think about it the only 2 ways a injector can get dirty. Is from the fuel or from the combustion process. 1. If the source of problems is from the fuel that means you got to either put a better filter on <10 micron or/and us better grade of fuel. This will stop the dirt from getting to the injectors. 2. If its the combustion process that is doing it then it most likely got carbon build up on it from cold EGT and lack of load put against it. So hitch up a trailer and/or weight and make that thing work. This will normally heat up the injector tips and burn off the garbage. Remember that chemical cleaners won't be able to do much for the injector tips. 3. If the debris is physical dirt I hate to say it but you can soak a hand full of dirt in any kind of injector cleaner and it still remains dirt... LOL Personally I don't see a need for injector cleaners if your running <10 micron filter... :confused:

You got to look at what older ATF was back in the 1970's... It was basically a red dyed hydraulic oil. Which wasn't bad back then. But now with all the changes in ATF design (ATF+3 or ATF+4) now there is friction modifiers, and other chemical to help it endure highier temps, help hold the clutch plates better, etc... These chemical is what don't burn very well and leave deposits...Now I've seen plenty of 2 cycle engines that burn extremely clean... But I've never even found a engine that was design for ATF as a fuel or fuel additive... :confused:

OUCH! Any kind of solvent or alcohol is not suggested or needed in a diesel. The acetone might have a bad effect with seals and o-rings... :confused:

So how do you figure out how much to dump in? I'm curious? :confused:

Well that kind of tough... There is 3 wires to the MAP sensor... 1. +5 Volt Supply2. Signal3. GroundOn Edge comp you want to turn off the signal line or disconnect it.On most others you want the +5V connect to the Signal lead.Now the problem is that the wire color and pin assignment changed from year to year. Even the plugs changed. So it will be up to you to test for the 5V lead and the signal lead. The signal lead will be the only one that won't change when the key is turned on! Also the stock wiring to the ECM should not be altered... Only the wiring to the quadzilla...

Fixed your post for ya... LOL But anytime you see just the P1693 error code... It MEANS to dig deeper... There is more error codes present. There is NO WAY to have just a P1693 error code by itself... Sometime you got to go barrow a Scan Tool like a ScanGauge II or similar... So there is another error code that you missed... :confused: