Mopar1973Man

Interesting... I know that most of the 2nd Gen 24V trucks I drove seem to get brakes rather quickly in the pedal. Under heavy braking usually you can lightly feel the ABS pump kick in. The only time I really feel the ABS pump is on loose ground or icy roads. As for grinding noises arn't good... Is it the actual rotors making the noise or the ABS pump? You might want to bleed some fluid out and see if there is debris in the fluid or dark colored. If its dark colored dump it, flush the system, and reload it. Bleeding setup Wasted brake fluid... 8|

Actually I'm getting to old to remeber... I'm getting sometimers... Some times I remember and sometimes I don't... LOL

Well Happy B-Day to you NukleusX... :thumbsup You made it to 24 Years old... Dang... I wish... I'm heading for 38... UGH! :wow

Make sure your MTU and RWIN is set right... There is another setting for NTU discovery that might play hell on it... Tweak tool... http://www.dslreports.com/drtcp Testing site... http://www.dslreports.com/tools

It's all good... LOL But at least the information is there! :thumbsup

Funny I got that same link above... LOL

Read this article... http://biodieselmagazine.com/article.js ... &q=&page=1 Basically all 2007+ with DPF now that use BIO Diesel take the risk of engine damage... Biodiesel is losing it qualities! :wow

Helps out doesn't it...I'm glad the information is extending the the fuel and getting it to go farther for you... :thumbsup

Ok... Here we go... I done two large trip now using cruise control and still keeping 128:1 ratio of 2 cycle oil in the fuel... 1. Trip to Postfalls, Idaho. I filled up in Lewiston, ID and travel to postfalls, ID then 4 Lakes, WA then Coeur D'Alene, ID and back to Lewiston, ID. The total distance was 385 miles and 1/2 Tank used... Cruise set to no highier than 55 MPH the whole trip. Here are the results... http://s143.photobucket.com/albums/r123 ... Postfalls/ 2. Trip to Weiser, ID to pickup fire truck part from a military shop. Since the SRRFD was paying for my fuel I figured I would run 65 MPH and see the difference in fuel milage. Rather shocking... http://s143.photobucket.com/albums/r123 ... iser%2065/ Cost of Diesel = $4.449 65 MPH = 18.6 MPG 55 MPH = 21.7 MPG 65 MPH = 0.24 Cents per mile 55 MPH = 0.21 Cents per mile 65 MPH = 651 Miles Total Travel 55 MPH = 760 Miles Total Travel Difference = 109 Miles

Here you go gang I got a picture of the barrel for the stoddard solvent... Stoddard Solvent... Close up of the label and warning... Locally available at any NAPA auto parts store... Sold for part washers... 8|

Add-on information... For filters - fleetguard replacement #'s are FF5613 fuelFS19768 waterBalwin FiltersFF-100-3 FuelWS-80 Water

(Copied from TDG.com) Tools needed; 1/4 drive rachet and exstension (3-6 inch) 3/8 drive rachet and exstension (3-6 inch) 1/4 or 3/8 drive Torque wrench, must have a range of 18-216 inch pounds, the most important # is 89 inch pounds 15, 8, and 10mm sockets 3/4 or 19mm line wrench or equivelant (see photo) http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2207&d=1134982876 8mm wrench Needlenose pliers Small flatbladed screwdriver Latex or Nitrile gloves Something to stand on to gain easy access to engine compartment Shop towels However much beer you will drink in 2 hours time To get started, make certain that you can reach the entire engine as comfortably as possible, either stand on something, sit on the radiator (difficult for us fatboys) or let the air out of your front tires. Disconnect the battery cables (or not, I do for safety) and the charge air inlet tube. Using a shop rag clean the underside of the body where it hangs over the motor, you can remove the insulation if you want, it is a CS to get back on. Do this to keep dirt and trash out of the motor with the valve cover removed. Drink a beer and congragulate yourself on a job well done to this point. Using the 10mm socket loosen all the valve cover bolts to the point they will move freely. Pick it up as high as you can and work it out towards the passenger side bending the heater hose out of the way. Make certain the gasket either stays on the head or comes with it. Remove the charge air inlet and APPS housing (Where the inlet pipe goes in and where the throttle cables go to, see picture). Take the APPS and move it out of the way, do not unplug it unless needed (you shouldn't). When removing the charge air inlet be careful of how the intake air heater wires come off and the gaskets on the inlet, you will reuse them all. Use a 15mm for this. Loosen all injector line clamps and either remove them from the vehicle OR just get them all loose enough that they are not holding anything. 8mm socket and wrench will be used for this. Drink a beer, cuss engineer who put the clamps where they did Once all line clamps are loose, loosen all injector tubes at the head using the line wrench. Once they are loosened you should be able to turn them with your hand if you keep the pressure off of them. Remove one (1) bolt from the valve cover, just push on it from the bottom side and it will pop out. Remove and install injectors one at a time to keep from getting crossed up unless you are confident of no interuptions and keeping everything straight. Drink a glass of water, no beer until you are buttoning up Don gloves or keep wads of shop towels handy, you are about to get VERY oil covered hands. Start removal of an injector by removing the forward clamp bolt, YOU WILL ONLY REMOVE ONE BOLT, it is the "easy to get to one" towards the front. Remove this bolt and pull/pick up on the clamp block to get it out. Thread the bolt removed from the valve cover into the top of the injector, using the small screwdriver, pry the injector tube nut outwards from the head by catching the threads and prying out wards. Not much, about 1/8 of an inch or so. Use the needlenose pliers to grab the valve cover bolt and pry off of a rocker arm to pop the injector out of its hole. If the injector will not come out easily remove the injector tube from the head or pry it out further to clear the injector. Make certain the copper sealing washer comes out with the old injector, if it does not take a screwdriver that will fit into the washer and use it to remove said washer from the head. Once the old injector is out reverse order for reinstall. Make sure to line up the fuel inlet on the injector with the injector tube, if the injector tube retaining nut does not start easily you do not have then lined up properly. It is sometimes possible to wiggle the injector from side to side with pliers to get it to seat. Reinstall clamp block and bolt, tighten bolt to 89 Inch Pounds (NOT FOOT POUNDS!!!!! YOU WILL BREAK THE BOLT). Repeat this 5 more times and you are done. It will work on all of them, #5&6 are a stone cold one to get to, use a short screwdriver, be careful not to damage the threads. Couple of notes, change gloves or wipe hands often, makes it a lot easier, keep the dirt out of the motor, be careful what you grab from where. Drink a beer, you just by gump earned it with #'s 5 & 6 Reassemble in reverse order, go ahead and tighten down all injector tube nuts to 28ftlbs, once you have everything back together you will loosen a couple of them again, but only a couple. The valve cover bolts are tightened to 18 INCH pounds When reinstalling the APPS assembly tighten the bolts to 105 INCH pounds The Charge air inlet bolts are torqued to 18 Foot punds (216 inch pounds) The charge air clamps are torqued to 100 INCH pounds Once everything is put back together you are ready to bleed lines and fire up, loosen the easy to get to lines, two are enough, three is much preferable. Crank the motor until you have fuel at the lines pretty good, if you have a buddy helping tell him to keep fingers away form there to "feel" for the fuel, he/she could loose them, VERY high pressure. Once you have the injector lines bled retighten them. When you crank the truck again it will run like snot, let the oil pressure come up and GENTLY rev the engine to around 1500 RPM and hold it there until it smooths out, then gently decrease back to idle. Let the truck idle for a bit to make certain there are no leaks or problems. Finish your beer, there are sober kids in India On the pics below, in one I am pointing to the APPS (bottom of pic) and the charge air inlet (top of pic). The two wrenches in my hand serve the same purpose, one is made from a 12 point el cheapo, you guess on the other. On the homemade one, I like it better than the Snap-on for the following reasons, it will grab in more places (12 point vs 6 point), and thinner. I dislike it for the following reasons, more likely to slip from spreading out, be careful with it if you make one, and it is more likely to slip in general (12 point vs 6 point). Enjoy ya'll, and PM me with any questions you might have, I will endeavor to answer them is possible. I DO NOT know everything about these trucks by a long shot, but like the song goes "I know a little bout it"

(Copied From TDG.com) For the 89-93's (Bosch rotary pump)there's a screw behind a tin access cover about the size of a nickel. It takes a 1/2"(13mm) to break the jamb nut loose, then take the screw out. It'll have a metal band welded on it that needs to come off. Once that's off you can run the jamb nut farther out(towards the outside of the pump, about 2 turns). Then put it back in and test, some smoke more than others(especially with Lucas POD injectors!). The pre boost power adjustment is under a cover that looks like a vacuum diaphragm, and it is one. It has a torx bit with a jamb nut. Loosen the torx for more low end & tighten for higher. The governor spring is different than in the later 12 valves, and is not adjustable. The other adjustment is to rotate the diaphram, under the top cover with 4 screws. Use the picture at right as reference. Turn the diaphram clockwise 90-120 degrees, this is like sliding the fuel plate on a 94-98. Now put it back in & test. The best bang for the buck, is to get a gov spring, most of the time they are under $20, and let it rev up to 3200 rpm. If you plan on a gov spring, hold off on doing the fuel screw shown above, it needs to be close to stock setting. Might take a look over here for more information... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/1stgen/inc-pump/inc-pump.htm

(Copied fro TDG.com) Ok guys and gals. After doing some researching and studying old pics I had, I have come up with a diagram that will show you how to wire in an external voltage regulator for when your internal regulator in the PCM quits working. Symptoms are either no charge or overcharge, however they are designed to fail in a no charge state. After insuring your alternator, batteries, and crank sensor are all good you can then use this diagram and save yourself about $800 on a new PCM. The alternator is a open field external regulated type. There fore it makes it easy to do this mod. What you will need is a voltage regulator from an 89' or older Dodge/Chrysler vehicle, a plug with harness, several pieces of wire, three barrel crimp connectors, two small ring and one large ring connectors, crimp tool, black tape, cordless drill, 2 self tapping sheet metal screws. First you will need to find a secure place on the fender well or firewall to mount the voltage regulator. Once a location is selected make sure to Sand the area down to bare metal where the screws you use to mount the regulator will make a good ground. Then on the back of the alternator you need to take the two small nuts off holding the black plastic formed block on. Once the block is removed, tape it up so as it can not touch any metal and cause a short. Then take the two small ring connectors that will fit the studs on the back of the alternator and crimp them onto two lengths of wire that will reach from the alternator to the voltage regulator. After crimping the connectors onto the wires, connect one each on the back of the alternator and tighten the nuts back up. Then route the wires from the alternator back to the voltage regulator. Next use your large ring connector and crimp it onto a piece of wire that will reach from your battery to the regulator. Route the wire from the battery to regulator, but DO NOT hook it up to the battery at this time. Now take one of the wires from the alternator and the wire from the battery and twist them together, then crimp them into one end of the barrel connector. Then take the other end of the barrel connector and crimp it onto the wire from the regulator plug that goes to the TOP post on the regulator. This is very important, it must be the wire going to the TOP post or you will pop the regulator. Then take the remaining wire from the plug and the alternator and crimp them together using the other barrel connector. Now go back and hook the wire onto your battery post. Start your truck and verify that is charging. Put your tools away and go buy yourself another mod since you just saved $800 from not buying a new PCM.

(Copied From TDG.com) These are the steps we went though to put the injector nozzles in the injectors. I will make this simple and to the point. It is the easiest. Might as well save the money from complete injectors and assemble the nozzles your self and then put the money you saved into something else for your truck. Just an idea. Good luck. -Tools needed: 3/8" inchpound torque wrench, screw driver, 15 mm deep socket, vise, 2 small pieces of flat wood (3" long x 1" tall), clean rags, cup of diesel, and toothbrush. -First I took a buddies complete injectors that he had removed from his 24 valve the previous week. -I put one injector inbetween the two pieces of wood and sandwiched it in the vise. Nozzle facing up. It has to be pretty tite or it will just turn in the vise. You use the wood as a cushion for the injector you dont want to mess it up. -I then used the screw driver underneath the injector in the slot of the injector to wedge it self up against the vise to keep it from rotating while untorqueing and then later retorqueing. Injector in Vise with screwdriver to hold it: -I untorqued the injector housing off the injector and it came off w/ 350 inch pounds of torque. I experianced this on 4 of the injectors so that is what I retorqued all of them to when reassembling. Injector housing untorqued at 350 inch pounds: When you take the nozzle housing off the injector body DO NOT TAKE ANYTHING ELSE OFF THE INJECTOR LEAVE IT AS IT IS!!!!!! -Once the housing came off the injector I set the needle aside and tapped the housing on the flat part of the vise. Let inertia cause the nozzle to come out. That way you don't mess up the stock nozzles. -DO NOT HIT THE NOZZLE TIP!!!! This way you will not mess up the brass washer on the nozzle side or the nozzle it self. Do not pry on the brass washer!!!! You need to reuse it. -Once loose, you can wiggle the brass washer off w/ your hands and remove the nozzle from the housing. Injector housing tap to get the nozzle to fall out: -Here it is all laid out. Nozzle, Nozzle housing, brass washer all apart: -Clean the nozzle housing out and the brass washer off with the diesel fuel you have in the jar using the tooth brush. -Once done cleaning I reassembled it. -I found it was easiest to put the needle back on the injector in the vise. -Then the new nozzle on that. Line up the two holes at the base of the nozzle with the 2 studs sticking out of the part on the injector. It only fits one way. They are offset. Do not force down. -Put the housing over all that to hold it all together and tighten it all back together. I tightened mine to the 350 inchpounds that they untorqued at.(I am not sure if this is correct but that is what mine were torqued at so I just put them back to what it was.) -Put the brass washer back on. Injector in Vise with screwdriver to hold it: -Remove from vise and wood and you are all done swapping a nozzle. -Wrap then up to keep them clean until you are putting them in your truck. -It is recomended to have the injectors all pop tested but the place I got my nozzles from (Go Fast Engineering) said that they have had great luck with the Edge nozzles and never have problems with them. I would probably be fine just putting it all together. - I ended up putting the injectors in without pop testing and they worked fine. Now my tranny really hates me and the EGT jump up way faster. WOOOO HOOOO!!!!!!!

Check out this article... http://www.salon.com/tech/htww/2008/04/ ... index.html

Right on Dorkweed...Yeah I know that front end parts are high priced but if done right its worth every nickle paid on it... So far I've been extremely lucky and not had to replace any front end parts yet except for my front driveshaft u-joints... But like anything it will wear out soon enough... :rolleyes Its funny you metion the Ford you got as a loaner... I'm surprised that it did so poorly in MPG and performance... :wow

Between changing my tires back to stock Michellins (265/75 R16) and adding the AirDog 150 I've now bumped my MPG from 18-19 to... Not bad at all... It even got more power (seat -o- pant dyno)... I should of check with my ScanGauge II but I forgot to... (D'Oh!) :rolleyes

My question is how do you remove the drum without special tooling... Back the shoe adjustment and it should slide off... If the drum should get tighter (or won't move) you know you going the wrong way... Last trick... Jack up the truck and put it on block in the rear and block the front axle from roling good... Then pull the tires off. Then take the lug nuts and thread them back on. Not tight mind you... Then start the truck and put in to a forward gear. Get a bit of speed and then mash on the brakes... The rear drums should pop loose. But the lugs will keep it from flying... I don't like this method but it does work if done right... Becareful!

Use a BIG 3 jaw puller and then whacked it with a BFH. They were stuck on very tight. I don't know a better way than that. Hopefully with replacing the joints with greasable ones they won't need replaced for a long time. Or... Loosen the 4 bolts the thread a couple in part way and put and socket and extention on them and turn the wheel left or right and jam the extention into the axle and it should push them out......do each side a bit at a time and be sure to anti sieze the hub when replacing

Well I would like to personally thank GOS Performance for providing me with a quality product. It took me a little over 3 hours to get it all installed to my specs that I wanted. I did some changes during my install to hopefully protect the pump and filter from damages this summer when I'm out cutting firewood. The when the box showed up from the "Brown Man" I was kind of shock to see how big the box was. I didn't relize that is came with all new fuel ine, fittings, electrical, etc. Right On! Instructions are really easy to understand. Once I got the pump all hooked up I was expecting this loud pump to buzz on the frame below. I turned the key and didn't hear nothing! UH OH! So I bumped the starter and listened. Wow! It really quiet running pump... Got it fire up (without priming!) and I was seeing 17-18 PSI Wow! This truck has never seen over 14-15 PSI in its life till now! Even stomped on the throttle I never got below 15 PSI. I know why too. I still got to put in the draw straw kit. I scarficed my old Vulcan Big Line Kit to make a pickup line temporary till I get back from my trip I got to make next week... I'm going to head out and grab my camera from the shop and post a few pics... Well here we are... Here is the old little carter Campaign pump (4090046) from Cummins... (Looking a bit sad and tried...) Then there is the installed AirDog 150... (Mount towards the transfer case to allow the skid plate to protect the filters for being hit.) With a solid 16.5 PSI shown on the gauge! I've seen up to 18 PSI now... Then the rest is in my write up on my BOMB listing now... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/airdog-150/airdog-150.htm

Kind of like me...I'm going to have to give up my 1973 Dodge Charger soon... I just don't have the money to spend on getting the beast back in working order. Basically needs to be completely tore down and re-assembled. The engine and transmission need a bit of tuning but still in good shape... :thumbsup Then my Mom has a 1976 Dodge Magnum XE. This car was built for only 2 years and the quit the production on it. It got a killer 318 with a 2 BBL holly carb. Great gas mileage. Like 18-20 MPG when we parked it 10-12 years ago. It been kept in the garage all this time and just sits there... Once in awhile I steal a battery and get it fired up and roll it for a few miles and park it again for a long slumber... But the interior is like factory fresh yet! :wow In either case... I've got enough to take care of between both 1996 Dodge RAM gasser and my 2002 Dodge Cummins... Both of these truck get better MPGs than the old cars... B)

Maybe that's why the 400 CID in my 73 bit the bullet and then a 383 CID jump in its place! LOL Then it got married to 727 Transmisiion to make move quick! :wow

Did you find it yet??? If not I can shoot a pic of mine to give you a clue... LOL

You might look in the back of the owner manual it should be listed for what size of fuel tank you got... If you don't have the owner manual for your truck you could connect a Dodge dealer with your VIN number and they could tell you everything about the truck... :thumbsup PS: you might want to fill out you signature it will help us out and figuring out what you have for a truck... :thumbsup