Mopar1973Man

The EPA regulations brought the ULSD design in effect as of 2007... I was manitory for all fuel stations to clearly mark ther fuel either LSD or ULSD at the pump. This was to prevent damage to 2007 model years EPA equiptment... :rolleyes

The fact that 2007+ model trucks are designed for ULSD (<15 ppm sulfur) so it might cause damage to smog equiptment... 8|

Veeige lube tends to be better than most petroleum based fuel lubricants... Just think B2 out does everything on the market... So it might be worth it... :smart

Well if 21.7 to 23.3 MPG with my exhaust brake I guess there is no loss... :wow http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/exhaust-brake/exhaust-brake.htm

Look along the pan edge on the passenger side there is a second dipstick hole and a turbo oil return that is plugged... I never found a proper fitting for either hole...

Go figure... Our 2 boys just don't get a clue... It like WVO or BIO can do very good if used properly but if mis-used it can cause all kind of problems and damage! :rolleyes

It seems like there has some showing of hands that use 2 cycle oil with good results there... :thumbsup

As for tire I had my stock street tire on... :rolleyes Trust me I understand complete what you went through... I had done the same thing with my old 1972 Dodge Power Wagon and ended up digging out by hand and never had a shoevl, a jack, chains, etc... Trust me I still get ribbed for that day... :rolleyes

Well gang...I finally did it good... I managed to get out to the forest and get a load of firewood... But by the time I get back everyone is picking my pile apart so I went deep into the woods to work my way back out. Well I came across a wonderful spruce tree. It had rotted out at the stump and fell over. Well there was no way to pull it to the road since it had fell between about 5-6 trees. So I figure I would back down to it. During the time I back down I notice I had compressed the ground slightly but didn't think any more about it since where I parked it was sitting just fine. Well wel cut the whole tree up into 16 inch rounds and started loading. We watch the ground closely but in never changed during the loading process. Well we got loaded up and got tools up on top... Then I started to pull foreward and BAM! I sunk in less the 2 feet. It was like the ground opened up and my truck fell in. (D'Oh!). So naturally after all the loading we unloaded the truck and tried again. Nope... It was up to the axles now. :rolleyes So I got smart and told my buddy to grab a block of wood and using the chainsaw to cut my wood blocks for my jack and for under the tires. Well about 1 hour later we got both rear tires jacked up and on top of wood blocks. Now I moved up to front which wasn't so bad and couldn't for the life of me get the jack under the front axle. I dug and push and shoved block under it but I just couldn't get the jack to lift the axle up. :mad Daylight was leaving so I threw in the towel. I look over my provisions I had in the truck... We both grab a big drink of fresh cool water and considered grabing the MRE but we didn't figure we would need it. But we made sure we had warm jackets and hats (since it had been raining). We proceeded to walk out on foot. About 5 miles of walking my buddy grabs my radio (Fire Dept issue) and figure he could get out... Surprised! He got the Fire Chief on the radio but the signal was really weak. So we walked another 1/2 mile or so and managed to get both the Fire Chief but another friend on the Fire Dept to answer! Wow! :wow So with our spirits lifted now we knew help was on the way. Well by the time we walked 6 miles they showed up... Trust me my feet were sore! We we drove back in there and would you believe it the Fire Chief's Ford PowerStroke was the one to pull me out... My buddy also showed up with his Dodge but he was only a 2WD truck... But his chain was the finally piece to the puzzle of pulling... Needless to say there is still a pile of firewood laying out there... LOLTHe Fire Chief (Dennis and his Wife Ruby) offer to go back up when we had time to help me bpack the firewood to my tire so it wouldn't be a loss... So hopefully on Monday I can get some help and I can get the load yet... Sorry no pics taken of this mess! :moon

Well Welcome to my humble little site... :thumbsup Well actually there is some changes to injectors as far as I understand... Like a stock injector is like lets say 5 holes. But a +40 HP Injector is 6 holes and maybe +60 HP is 7 holes.... This is just a example. But that what I understand why people are jumping to like RV275 injectors because its spreads the fuel around the bowl of the piston better because of the extra hole(s). But the size of the holes have really change till you get into big injectors... You control the fuel flow by your foot (keeping away from WOT operation) and you'll get better MPG from them. I'm not a pro at injectors but I'm sure someone will step up to give a bit more information about tnjectors and count of holes... :D

Fixed you double post there Keydl.. LOL But its true the standards of fuel change on us and they would never say anything negative to hurt business so of course ULSD is suggested for use in all diesel fuel engine regardless of the fact you engine was designed for LSD (500 ppm sulfur). Of course the labs would never waste money on testing if they don't have to... :wow

Yes the straight pipe does effect your warranty... At least my dealer didn't say a word and left me alone and dealt with everything else... I've been working with computers now since 1984 (14 Years old). I got a degree from ITT Tech in 1990 in Van Nuys, California. So that's 24 years of experience... Wow it been that long??? :wow Basically get it to breathe easier and the MPG's will rise... If the straight iping is a issue then I would suggest a full 4" exhaust system. At least then you can have a muffler and the added size will help it breathe. But if you want the straight ipe yet but be legal about it there is always a sneaker series muffler... Basically a stright pipe in a muffler shell... Its a legal muffler!!! LOL

Well since you didn't fill out you info in you profile I've got no idea where your at nor state...so as for the straight piping... I know here in Idaho you can do it and not get into much trouble. I've been straight now for about 4 years and never had any problems with noise. Maybe because I don't go racing averything on the highway... And maybe because I'm part of the local fire dept... LOL But straight piped exhaust will reduce your exhaust temp considerably... 4" will do even more reduction than straight 3"...Edge Comp doesn't require it but it is suggested for performance...(Side notes...)As for screen savers I would ditch it personally it a waste of memory and CPU... The software is always loaded and waiting to run at the time selected. Inormally use the power feature to shut the moniotr completely down... This doesn't require any memory nor does it require CPU time... Actually if setup right the computer can gain some HP because the CPU doesn't have to send data to the bideo and keep drawing the screen so this in turn is a GAIN... ;)

How much air do you have in them???I just for kicks and giggles I cranked mine up to 70 in the front and 65 in the rear to harden them up more... Usually a tire gets softer with heat... And more solid in the cold... :rolleyes

Ask all the questions you want... If I can't answer it I'm sure I can find some that can... :thumbsup

We got a older Chevy Diesel 6.5L and it got the crankcase vent hooked right at the turbo charger... Oh what a mess... I got to get a pic of this... It got oil and goop all over the turbo compressor... There is much you can do for it since it got some blow by issues... :confused:

OMG! You actually going back through the 2 cycle oil historic archives!!! LOL Oh the pain of the battles...Oh oh! LOL

Dang... comparing against my caliper those things are nasty looking... Wow! :wow I would opt for rebuilt caliper after looking at that myself I'm sure you might have a few froze pistons in these things... Not to mention the lost and broken bolt in the one you got the pic of... The reman calipers at NAPA was suppose be around $120 bucks... Or am I just got the gift of gab... :confused:

Now lets see what happen to the MPG numbers... :rolleyes I pulled my Coopers STT off and put the ol' Stock Michellins (265/75 R16) back on... But I rather say my good tires for the winter time and the dip snow that burn up a $1300 set of tires on the road... Beer... Just call it what it is... LOL

If so then I would worry to much about the testing... Basically the testing is how black or dark you smoke is. So if your only a 2% opacity I wouldn't worry at all... Kind of like how they rate window tint but backwards... LOL

I've heard evrything from -1 to +2 MPG changes... Thats all...I'm doing better with my Edge Comp right now at 21.7 to 23.3 MPG... LOL

Geez... I'm glad I never got into Ford's or Chevy's much... :smart

I agree with REFLancer... It on the driver side of gear case in front. You just need to move the wiring to see it... ;)

So if they are only testing for opacity of the smoke then 2 cycle oil should be a problem. As for my truck in stock form design smoke any differently with or without 2 cycle oil...Or are they testing for other things?

Ok... First thing is to get a 6 sided socket that fits good on the bleeder screws. Hold the ratchet in place and whack the ratchet handle to loosen it. Normally this is enough to get it loose... PB blaster, WD-40, or similar won't hurt. But I have a feeling your in the same boat I was you going to have to pull the calipers off and open up the pisons and clean the piston cylinders out. Check for rust and check for seal damage... If you deside to use heat make sure you get the piston and seal out of the calipers before heating it up... Don't want to damage the pistons or seals. viewtopic.php?f=45&t=247 Also before I forget when (and if) you pull the calipers apart check you pistons for binding. It really simple. Take all the seals out (weather seal and main seal) then clean the caliper good (I used soap and water then compressed air dried.) The pistons should drop in there holes without PUSHING at all. It you got to push it in the piston NEED to be replaced. If there is rust in the cylinders you can use a hone stone to polish out a little bit but if its bad you'll have to replace your caliper ($120 replace). I've been changing my brake fluid as recommend by the dealer at every 30K miles. Which happens to be roughly once a year... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/maintenance/maintenance.htm Second off once you do get them loosen and bled you want to snug them not super tighten them... Overtighten the bleeder screws will damage the ends of the screws and the seats in the calipers it will cause them to leak. After that get some vinyl tubing that will fit over the bleeder screews. Cut it about 1" long then heat the tubing with a cigarette lighter and then quick squeeze the end of the tube with pilers to seal shut the tubing. Now you got new bleeder caps to keep the water and mud out of the screws... This will prevent the screws from rusting again! Seals and pistons are a dealer only part but there cheap. Seals are like 3 bucks and a piston is $21 bucks. Well I better stop... LOL