Mopar1973Man

Another thought on the American made idea...Like myself since the time I got involved with cummins powered trucks I've produced a few products that would repair or modify the stock truck like my crancase vent mod and my high idle mod. Now here is the kicker... For me to produce any of these products and sell them to the public I need to sell them for over $100 buck at least. This is just so I make a profit on the product. Between buying the materials, design & assembly, and shipping costs I'm left with a very small margin of profit. Most people think the prices are high and I think I'm working way too hard and making to little profit so I gave up. There is other factors like driving around trying to hunt down sources for parts and materials to make these products. I might be lucky and make $20 bucks per item that took me 2-3 days to build... Now looking at that on a per hour basis I fell like I'm the slave now... ` I've had many people tell me that I should sell my knowledge to the general public. Well the problem with that is if I put a price tag on what's in my head and try to sell it to everyone I'm sure this web site would become extremely quiet and I wouldn't make much of a profit. ` But there is a few people now that have been extremely generous and sent me donation and wonderful hand wrote thank you letters. Hate to say it but its something that will not change with the American Public everyone wants something for nothing (or at least cheap as possible).

I'm also self employeed... :thumbsup * Cloud 10 Computers* Mopar1973Man - Auto MechanicsI'm also getting hit with stupidity calls too... But what I do is hide the stupidity charge inside other things. Like Travel charges, shipping and frieght charges, etc. Like my common problem is people not keeping a good anti-virus program or just know better to stay out of the porn sites. Well these people usually got a easy fix for me so... I tell the owner that the computer is infected. Ok... Now I got a simple solution I'll pull the hard drive and return home to scan it. Now I return home and scan it with mine and list the infection in the bill. I charge for the time at the job site, time at the shop, and travel to and from the site x2! Make it very profitable. But now for a good customer I would pack up my computer and head to the site and scan there computer and the bill is really cheap. (Site time, and travel).Now there is bonuses to this method too. The fact a annoying customer will not follow me back to my shop to watch me scan it so my time at the shop can be adjust accordingly if I have to. Also I'm not being bothered my customer to finish quickly or peering over my shoulder. This works for both automotive or computer work. I know I can do most jobs on site but if it really a annoying customer have them drop it at the shop and I'm free! There you go... :thumbsup

Well part of this has to do with the American public having a need for speed. If the Gov't would return the speed limit nation wide to 55 MPH we would see a fuel saving and a huge rise in MPG's. Since I good friends with the local police and state police... First off 90% of Idaho speed limits are 55-65 MPH period! Now the local police are still giving ticket out for 70-75 and even a few close to 80 MPH! This is completely sad! I've done a lot of study of getting high MPG's and a bunch of it has to do with you right foot! The technology is here all ready but no one uses it...Now for kickers I just went out today to help out with Branding and Fencing up a friends ranch. Well I drove the whole way at 55 MPH on the highway and I NEVER even had a single vehicle come up behind me or pass me in 25 miles of highway travel (US 95). Then turned off the highway and headed 7 miles up a dirt road. Did my work... On my way back down to the highway I tried to coast the whole way to the bottom. Then once on the highway I drove back home at 55 MPH again. The only person that passed me was my buddy in his 1992 Dodge Cummins... He took lead and set his cruise also for 55 MPH... When I returned home I still pulled a 20.6 MPG for the day. Not bad... Do mine you I got my ATV load in the back of the truck.It's truely sad to see the American vehicle having to outsource to pull the price down to compete with world markets. I wish that American public would man up and relize we CAN and WILL alway make quality products but it will COST you in the long haul. Yes you can send things to China or Japan to be assembled cheaper but thats just like days of slavery. We are there again just using the Middle East for our slavery...Oh the price of diesel and gasoline are $2.869... I'm heading for $3.00 a gallon quickly... :mad DISCLAIMER: I know I might of hit a few nerves but I'm just trying to speak my mind honesty... If this is a bit much I will EDIT or DELETE it...

JL... Mine is a different setup... You hook up the jar and crack the bleeder screw and pump your brains out. Now your setup you just cracking the bleeder screws and letting it sit there dripping. Now if your to pump the brakes as soon as you let of the pedal the air would suck in a heart beat! It just my setup is quick and dirty method. Yours is just dirty... LOL ;)

Yes... You would have to bleed all 4 wheels to get the system cleaned up. Starting at the rear passenger side, rear driver side, front passenger side and then front driver side in that order. Basically start out with the rear passenger side and pump out nearly all the brake fluid through it. Then re-fill and bleed it till clean the other wheels will go quick after that. Now there is a problem and short coming to this. This will freshen the the fluid in the system but it does nothing about all the debris that drops in the bottom of every caliper (or wheel cylinder for drums). This debris will remain after the bleeding. So say about every other bleeding (60K miles) you should open up each caliper and wheel cylinder and inspect it for debris, pitting, rusting, piston and seal damage. Before you start just pull the calipers off and dis-assemble them completely and wash everything in soap and water. Then blow dry with compressed air so metal part won't rust. Look closely at the seal on the right side and you can see the damage done by debris in the brake fluid. Now look at the piston. With the seal out the piston should fall to the bottom of the bore like pictured without pushing. Also pay attention to rub marks or pitting of the cylinders. If not you can slight tune the pistons with a fine grit sandpaper (600) and lightly sand them till the fit by dropping. Here with a new seal in place. Mark sure you pre-lube them with fresh brake fluid before assembly.

If so then it would fall back to DEF mode all the time... :confused:

Well I was in the process of building a brake bleed page (Buttom missing) http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/brakes/brakes.htm But basically I created a bleeder container to keep the air out of the system. Basically a mayo jar and a piece of vinyl tubing inserted in the lid of the jar to hang down to the bottom of the jar. This keeps the line from sucking air back in the system. Yeah that what brake fluid looks like after 30K miles nasty black color. This is what fresh fluid looks like after a good change at 30K miles... Use typical DOT 3 Brake fluid and your good to go! ;)

Wow! :wow The dealer mechanic suggested my idea??? That's a shocker! 8| That's for sure one to add to the books! Wow! :wow

There is also a lot of double speak that is upsetting... Like GM is talking on how is going to close down most dealer here in America. But how the foreign dealers are doing wonderful in China and other places. They will remain open.. WTF!?!? My dad (Rest his soul - pasted away in 2004) was a 30 year retiree from Van Nuys, Ca. Plant... You can should see how the moved everything to China and going to kepp moving to save there Arse! :mad

Dang it really active there... :wow

Following Russ's lead here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/ac/ac.htm

Sounds like the problem is solved and the dealer did you right! Glad to hear it! :thumbsup

Well gang...I got into Mom's garage and woke up the sleeping princess. It happens to be a 1977 Dodge Magnum XE with a 318 CID engine 2 BBL Holley carb. Nice to see the old girl wake up from a long slumber in the garage. It got several small issues to deal with like a 1/2 tank of some very sour gasoline, needing all the fluids change and just basic maintenance done. Later on I get the rest of the specs and some pictures of my project... :thumbsup

Believe it or not even Idaho gets a tornadoes now and then... Check this out! http://www.tornadoproject.com/alltorns/idtorn.htm As a matter of fact we just had a tornado touch down in Emmett, ID this spring! 8| (close to the Ex-girlfriend)

Waiting to hear back! :thumbsup

Well at least you a good distance away from it... But good pics of it! I'm glad no one was hurt nor any damage done (that you know of!). ;) That pretty cool to get a tornado pics on the Mopar site.. :thumbsup

I think Russ has a good idea of jumper testing the fan and see ifit holds up for a long period of time. Nope... As far as I know of there is no auto control fans... Boy Russ you must of had fun cleaning out those critters eh??? LOL I think there could be a piece of paper floating around in the vents too. Laying down when off but takes some time to flutter up and stick to a heater core or evaporator??? :confused:

Yeap that another factor that will effect the life of a injector. Being that Bosch suggest fuel that is less than 460 HFRR score. Typical fuel today float around the 500-520 HFRR score. Maybe that why I still use a fuel lubricant like 2 cycle oil... LOL ;)

Now what you save on just buying the tips you'll must likely make up in pop testing and driving around getting it done... They could be... But it depends on how much debris that is escaping the fuel filter and being shoved throught the edge filters at the injectors... Also there is other factors excessive pyrometer heat, debris in the cylinder chamber (bad air filter), mechanical failure (broke part), etc...

Check your fuse...Check the fan phyiscally for damage...Pull the fan resistor out and check for damage...I've pull a few out now and seen that the fan takes alot of abuse from dust and dirt. The bearing tend to fail blowning the fuse most times. Also If you like most people here the keep jacking fuses into it till it won't hold a fuse. Typically the speed sresistor will burn up from the excessive load from the bad blower motor. The fan and resistor are on the passenger side pointed towards the floor board. Once you pull the blower out you can check for rats nest or debris. I've been lucky and pulled a $1 dollar bill out my buddy's 92 Cummins... LOL That was his whole problem was the 1 dollar bill was blocking part of the evaporator...

Good question??? :confused:

Looking over TSB's and found this one for you! http://silverdodge.dodgeram.org/tsb/1999/18-02-99.htm

About 2K to 2.5K RPM's you should see MAX Boost. It all based on hold much fuel you can pour in the cylinders. More fueling enhancements the boost that is produced.

That's something that bother me...I see people driving around with a turn signal on knowning they have no idea how fast there going, there turn signal on, or if there is a engine mal-function... :wow

1. Cheap filters. (Cheap no name filters) 2. Not changing the fuel filter as needed. 3. Burning WEO/WMO, ATF, WVO Etc in the fuel without proper processing. If you upgrade to a FASS or AirDog you got the option of upgrading from the stock 10 Micron filters to 2 micron filter like myself. I tend to stick with Fleetguard filters on everything except the Air Filter which is a BHAF.