Mopar1973Man

Well here you go... Check over the manufacture contact and look at the many choices you got and choose wisely... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/manufacture/manufacture.htm

Ummm... Errr... Ummm... full dash removal most likely... But I might get lucky and be able to fish ro remove stuff and see in to them...:confused:

Well as far as I understand the grid heaters are controlled by the PCM under the hood near the battery. The IAT sensor sense the intake temps and desides if the grid heaters are needed. Now I know th key trick works on the 1st gens and will display a flash code on the CHECK ENGINE light. I'll get ahold of Taz and find out what wires are hooked to the relays...

Sure... Normal Idle Cold ----------------------- 200*F (0% Load) High 6 Cylinder Idle -------------------- 250*F (0% Load) High 6 Cylinder Idle with Exhaust Brake - 400*F (1% Load) High 3 Cylinder Idle -------------------- 450*F (10-15% Load) high 3 cylinder Idle with Exhaust Brake - 850*F (33% Load) Shaocker how loading the engine help create heat...:thumbsup:

Strange part about you vacuum problem I think it going to be in the cab... Being the axle seem to be working for the most part... But the vents might have a bad vacuum motor? Something jaming the door? :confused:

Nothing new...

For those of us in Idaho I'm submitting a cold weather warning. Make sure you got a bottle of anti-gel or some kerosene around. The temps around here are going to be nearing 0*F and even getting negative temps. Be sure to plug in your block heater or get your vehicle into shelter if possible. Take a preview... http://www.weather.gov/forecasts/graphical/sectors/pacnorthwestWeek.php#tabs Local Warnings... http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/boi/ Like here in Pinehurst the weather this morning is 16*F and still falling. :eek:

Correct... Like my start was at 22*F outside and the grid heaters kicked it up to 40*F in the manifold so it would never start high idle till it was colder yet... Typically its got to be about 15-20*F to get high idle and 0-5*F to get 3 cylinder high idle. Like tonight its 25*F here in Idaho I know my high idle will not start unless I manually kick the switches...

Well I'm right behind you...:rolleyes2: I got home to the stink of fuel and open the hood... guess what I got #1 injector line loose and leaking... So double check your injector lines... But double check the banjo bolt on the back of the head which is a return line from the injectors. Common for the washer to give up and leak or the bolt to back out. Check the tee at the back of the engine I heard of it leaking now and then too.

Check you Alternator fuse? Is the voltage regulator blow in the PCM? :confused:

Man that's going to suck this morning (Sat)... Both of us going out to fire fighter training in Whitebird, ID... :cry2: I got more snow here though...

Well I know there is no relays or switches in between the fuel pump and the ECM. (Aftermarket get it trigger from here)... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/ecm/ecm.htm (Wiring diagrams below)

Ok... Then I would pull the dash bezel and pull out the control switch for the vacuum and check the controller for function I know your going to have to get creative with tubing but I would use a piece of tubing and go from port to port seeing if the vents change. I would also measure the strength of the vacuum...

Ummm... You might check the fuel pressure during cranking... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCJjMzRImpA Excessive cranking pressure might be the cause of it...

Here is a good pic for the thread...

Hey Jacob... Would you believe I lost my outerwear's profiler last year (wore a hole in it and only had it for a year) But my BHAF is 5 years old now with a 109K miles and still going with all the dusty dirt roads of idaho... A filter minder is a must to determine if the filter is actually plugged...

Hmmm... This brings up a valid problem for Taz's truck its just like you 16* advanced timing... several rev's before it even pops. I'm starting to wonder if we should back the timing off a tad... :confused:

Ummm... Russ your one of the great wise ones we got in the group remember wisdom comes with age! (also glad to have you here!) As for the PS2's... Please I got a computer here that runs rings around that junk...

Really easy to do... I did the AD 150 because I plan on upgrade injectors in the future... But here is my write up. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/airdog-150/airdog-150.htm As for like a Raptor its really simple and can be done with basic hand tools and little effort you can install a rapto in about 3-4 hours taking your time... It a complete kit and comes with all wiring, fittings and hose.

Well Silver Jim... I'm very close to you in usage... I'm in the middle of Idaho there is no service for miles in some of the places I go. Like Riggins, ID has no mechanics really just a single Chevron station that will change oil and tires but thats it. So as for taking care of the truck I've done everything in my power to make it bulletproof. As for lift pump I highly suggest you talk to JKidd and he'll set you up with like a AirDog, Raptor or every a FASS. But don't bother with a FASS DDRP they are junk. As for keeping the VP44 in top notch you might consider using a good fuel lubricant additive or 2 cycle oil. More information here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/2-cycle-oil.htm Sorry the SG II can only read when the ECM/PCM reports. Since only 10% of all vehicles produced have a fuel pressure sensor the chances are rare to use the FP function of the SG II. Since the SG II can only see when the ECM/PCM report. Sorry...

Good suggestion... I'm a bit blurry about 6.7L stuff but I'm willing to learn... Hey SnoFarmer, could you post some pics of what your aiming to do? I'm kind of the visual kind of guy...

Sorry... I comment that you dog looks good with a bird in its mouth... See them around here but normal we don't use dogs we just shoot... :confused:

I thought the same thing too...:confused:

If I remember right its every 24K miles...

Shoot... That would be perfect on my pelton wheel...:eek: My water wheel (pelton wheel) would be great for that little 4 cylinder compressor! Then I would have air all the time...http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51&stc=1&d=1259854479