Mopar1973Man

Actual there is a Quadzilla problem... The Quadzilla has a full boost fooler so it impossible to have a MAP sensor code really. So it was me I would un-hook the Quadzilla and see if the Quadzilla is the cause...

Fuel pressure gauge usually comes by itsself. So I typically order a oil pressure tubing kit and it supplies all the fittings and ferrules for the gauge and for hook up...Then you need a needle valve from NAPA for $8 bucks (Weatherhead - WH6820)

Just pointing out there is more errors so if the P1693 is with another code you good... But if the P1693 is by itsself then you got a communication problem...

PCM is on the passenger side firewall... ECM is on the driver side of the block... No such thing as dumb questions... :nono

Here you go... Fresh TP and Used TP rolls... 8| Reloaded can... Unsed TP paper that is spooled off to make it fit...

Add it in to you fuel which is fine... Just mix it less than 1.5 gallon per tank. As for filtering it... I would filter it through a 2 micron filter.Lot of guys use a cetnerfuge to spin off the debris and clean it up better than a filter could.

Right here if its a banjo bolt... Bottom of the filter housing...

When you shove the roll in the can it looks like this... So it cannot come un-wound or shread... I've been using mine for little over 3 years and love it. It keeps the oil clean longer and works like a chram... :thumbsup I got to change filters today anyways so I grab a pic of the old roll... 8|

Lack of communication with the ECM to pull codes... You might have to check the connection on the ECM to be sure its not dirty. Then last resort is to go to a Dodge dealer to see if they can pull the codes... :confused: Its seem like the 2001 model year is having this issue the most...

Yeap... I do right here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/valve-adj/valve-adj.htm

Wow! That killer results so far there Dorkweed! :thumbsup

Love to hear how the rebuild goes... :thumbsup But I got a question why are your running mismatched batteries??? :confused:

For over 15 years I ran 235/85 R16 on my old 72 Power Wagon Dpdge in winter time ice and snow with no problem. Now with the diesel its a different story... I tend to have to be light on the throttle to keep it from slipping in the gravel... But come winter I can control TQ with the Edge Comp but selecting a lower sublevel...

Sounds like the water hammer effect is finally beating the electric sender to death. You need to add that needle valve and then seat it closed and then barely crack it open again...

Well if I upgraded my solar panels so I was creating more than 4K watts I could sell back directly to the power company now. The Interverter has a sell back feature and protection to prevent hazards. Like the city provides the 60 Hz clock cycle so if the cycle wanders off then the intervert shutdown sell mode. lets say the power line fell or broke... Well it impossible for the invert to feed the neighborhood so if fails rapidily and shuts down sell mode... It got to admit the few time I did do it... It was wild to see the wheel in the power meter running clockwise then as soon as sell mode starts its slows down and stops... Then start spinning counterclockwise... Then all the little pointers started moving backwards... I built a program to capture and then sell at the nd of the day well I our power bill was reduced... 8|

Got lucky it looks... :thumbsup

Glad your OK Russ...But that is kind of funny to hear about... LOL

1. You need a fuel pressure gauge. Keep your fuel pressure above 10 PSI always2. Your going to need a upgraded fuel pump (FASS, AirDog or Raptor - You should do this upgrade regardless of horsepower upgrade or not!)3. You going to need a upgraded torque converter and valve body to keep the trans going. (You should do this upgrade regardless of horsepower upgrade or not!)4. Then you could add a enhancement box to gain few horse power to pull the load. (Edge, Smarty, Quadzilla, etc)

Ok... Got you moved... ;)

I love it all Ford owner I run into think I'm nuts... LOL

Sorry 4WD here..

I would hit a wrecking yard and replace the whole port...Or you could try Caspers Electronics and see if they have it... :confused:

I've got books... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=cat&id=2

Most will point towards MOOG for ball joints and simular front end parts...

I ran across this on aother forum but I still don't have a reason for the fault... :confused: