Mopar1973Man

So. I'm going to chase a few different things here. First off I've already talked to @dieselautopower about this and got a clue. So the over pressure valve is a serviceable item which is possible it's leaking DAP has a rail plug to block that possible leak and see if there are any changes. NAPA wants $417 for the valve then DAP can do much better under my vendor side. I called another member @towhungerford and chatted about this issue and he's agrees the over pressure valve could be leaking. This could affect restart because air could be introduced by the return rail. Personal note... Sadly today it was like +7°F this morning. I just done with my 6 month check up. My back is killing me found out I've got L3 and L4 compressed and 1.5 inch shorter now. No cancer found but still fighting with my kidneys.

Here is some of the random wild swings in pressure at idle.

So... I've got the one injector back from @dieselautopower seated and installed in the head again. This is nuts I'm losing prime instantly. I'm still fighting loss of prime issues which is nearly instantly. If the engine stalls or shut off it impossible to start again, super long cranking. I'm still seeing about 2,xxx PSI swing in pressures at idle on the rail I'm getting both 5 chimes and 10 chimes grid heater light. If driven slowly under 40 MPH it will not set the grid heater light. Extremely hard to start hot. Once the grid heater light is on the rail pressure is forced to 19,xxx to 20,xxx PSI all the time your driving. I've even changed fuel filters just for the sake of it. It was dirty looking but not the cause. Lift pump pressure is more stable but still very possible to suck it down to ZERO PSI of supply pressure on a WOT run if the grid heater light is off. I've pull inspected these injector twice now. Still have a rough idle miss either warmed or cold. Blue smoke from one cylinder while idleing but there is no real blow by at all. The cap lays in the hole just fine and doesn't jump out. During the rough idle periods it will jack the rail pressure from 6,xxx roughly to 8,xxx PSI then when is smooths out it drops again.

Wouldn't wanna. 3rd Gen brakes add more rotational mass. Yeah I'm trying to fix my 3rd Gen right now it barely gets 14 MPG empty.

Not a problem and your welcome always here to support the Cummins family.

Give Module masters a call in Moscow Idaho. https://mopar1973man.com/vendor.htm/vendor/module-master-r8/

Right on. I thought it was weird.

Delayed due to snow storm. Setup for the 15th.

According to the service manual you should be able to see it but location of the blower motor is near the firewall. I'm pretty sure the bearings on the blower are shot.

I'm alive and cancer free yet. I go in on Jan 28 for testing make sure my cancer doesn't return.

Yeah i put a laughing smiley because you have to pull the dash apart just to even see a little bit of the blower motor. It's on top of the HVAC case on the passenger side. I'll see if I can find a image in my service manual.

I've gotta ask why would a blower motor for the front not work till the front of the cab warns up in the sun? No blown fuses. Relay is good.

I'd love to do a in line exhaust brake but after seeing 2 exhaust systems fail quickly at about 5 years because of salt on the highways. This limits me to turbo mounted exhaust brakes and very limited choices of turbos. 4 inch diamond eye last about 5 years and falls apart being all the clamps and hangers are steal. All just rust away. Performance muffled or open is basically the same. Muffled just quieter and no drone. No resonator needed. Even open it was fairly quiet till I jumped on the throttle. I'm back to muffled system a d plenty happy. Do you mind if I turn this into an article?

Might consider adjustable control arms too so you can get the correct geometry for the front axle.

Might be a beefy unit but the quality isn't that great. Yeah, it's not the quality parts we've known but now it's a foreign-made product and lifespan is questionable at best at times. Hence why the Lifetime warranty like my Autozone clutch hydro's which are lifetime warranty but foreign-made parts.

I'm still here. I'm learning that my ostomy is a PITA. Like my post on fixing Minnie, I've learned more about the limits of my body and ostomy. I've been chasing a bad ground issue and trying to fix it by tearing apart the dash but found out it's just my battery terminals. Ok, wasted time in the cold but got it running. Beast is getting problematic being the rear main seal leaking. Thor I'm still waiting for the injector to come back soon. As for my body I'm gaining strength in my body and energy. Still my main problem is my ostomy bag being in the way of normal activities. I'm still learning how to protect and guard my ostomy completely. Yeah its rather PITA when you bend over or lean against a counter or anything where the bag is squeezed even a little you might be covered in urine. Yup. Its happened quite a few times.

Sorry for the lag time It has been a bit crazy for me being I've been dealing with cancer. Welcome to the site!

Should of kept it. You just ditched a good fuel heater and a secondary filter.

That sucks. But the truth is just because you can hit the old adjustment doesn't mean it will be the same setting as the old bushings or front-end parts. I tried doing the same for tierod replacement and adjusted to the same length of threads measured but because of small differences, it ate the front tires up in a mere 250-mile trip.

Same here I just get the economy line and no issues just expect in 100k to 150k miles it will be getting lose.

Minnie has been down for a few weeks with electrical issues. The funny part is the solution was straightforward. Remember start easy start at the battery terminals. Sadly I started ripping the dash apart thinking the ground issue was in the cab being the fuel gauge would drop to empty and chime there was no fuel left there was over a 1/4 tank. I've got another I've gotta check on power door locks but they just quit. Maybe a fuse? Minnie is back to running with a bit of effort.

Nope. Quadzilla is not to blame being mine is close to 10 years old. My factory ECM has 495k miles never failed yet. AC noise issues kill the ECM we have the W-T ground wire mod which solves the failure.

494k miles still using the factory track bar. Never used any of these products. Just remember no oversized tires. The lifespan averages about 150k miles per track bar for a life span.

Out here lubricity is low. Bosch VP44 require 460 HFRR or lower. Most all fuel is roughly 520 HFRR. Might read about the fuel additives in the article database.

This is why I created the vendor listing then there is another article that we hunted for good ECM/PCM rebuilders. You are welcome!