Mopar1973Man

Yeah I'm finally getting this cleaned up and can focus on getting my driveway back. As of right now the driveway is rough but accessible for vehicles to the front door. After I clean up the trash pile we will have parking area for all the vehicles here on the property. I'm racing against winter time to make sure I can keep my driveway cleared and open. The videos are while I was digging for the shop stuff and Mark personal stuff, if I got lucky but most everything in the house and shop was crushed by heavy slabs of concrete. Finally, I got my driveway cleared in a rough method. It has been long days and a lot of diesel fuel for digging like this. I've had to double-stack all my dirt and debris pile against the mountainside. This is only a temporary place for just the wintertime. I've still got to rebuild a shop at some point so I can even maintain my own vehicles. The driveway is clear but I've got a huge trash pile to sort out, hopefully before the snow comes. Take the wood and move it to the lower yard to be burned this late fall.

@Mace could you build an article for the electric vacuum set up?

Basically, the pump section pulls out of the reservoir, and there is a large o-ring. As for the pump vanes, I've never opened up. Rest is just o-rings. Be sure you can get the o-rings first before opening. I would check with Blue Top Steering for pump and steering box supplies. https://bluetopsteeringgears-com.3dcartstores.com/

Double check the black/white wire that grounds behind the starter. This is the ground lead for the lift pump and fuel heater. If you bump the starter there should be power on the the other wire in the plug but the ground might be dead.

Closer to paint. I dying to see the final product.

Power Steering fluid should be changed every 30k miles. You can pull the reservoir housing off so you can rebuilt most of the power steering pump. There might be screens inside. Make sure to get a new o-ring first. Vacuum pump seal you can get for like 20 dollars at Cummins supplier. I get mine from Rocky Mountain Cummins super cheap.

Last time I bought a roll of 1/2 inch line from DAP. Can't remember the price but it was about 20 feet on the shipment. Mine just found out in the landslide the other day.

So you have the JIC type push loc fittings? Still, you should check the mating faces to make sure there is no grit or damage to the mating faces. I just had a hard start on Beast just yesterday, and my head is already processing. Suction side never leaks out but will continue to allow air in. Yeah, I've got the same fittings as well. The mating face if damaged or rusted, will typically start to leak (loose prime or leak outwards) Thor on the other hand has the plastic quick connects. On these you can grease the smooth bore tip and the grease will aid in sealing.

Same driveshaft my 1972 Dodge Power Wagon had... I'm assuming there is a grease zerk on the other side of the stub? The issue I had back in the day the spines wear down if you don't keep up with the greasing and that seal for the spline. My old 1972 had a unmarried transfer case and that short shaft was wobbling from a worn spline. Learned a lot about the old school spline shafts.

No. I still had internet and cellphones. I was unable to reach mopar1973man.com solely. Took about 4 days for the broken backbone to straighten out.